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Trip Report: Paris April 15 - May 6, '26

"Caution....this is pretty long with detail and chatter, so if this bothers you it's better to move on to the next thread!"

Due to various outside factors a tour did not work out for me this spring so I decided to go to Paris for 3 weeks and have a “staycation”, hahaha! It is a mystery to me as to why I love Paris so much! I am SO not a big city gal but something about Paris just resonates with me. Part of it is that I stay in a fairly quiet area and I generally know where to go to get away from throngs, including a few areas in the Louvre where there are few people!

I first visited Paris in 1973 and was not terribly comfortable but it was my first trip abroad. I also visited in 1974 and 1976 and just didn’t like it. I finally went back in 2014 on the RS 21 day Best of Europe tour and followed that with Rick’s Best of Paris tour. That sealed the deal. Both Dimitri and Rolinka, my guides, helped me understand Paris and how to get around efficiently.

Flights: I am a Delta flyer so flew Spokane->Seattle->CDG and CDG->SLC->Spokane. I got an unbelievable deal on the RT ticket. In fact I wasn’t even planning to buy the day I looked but the price was $793 RT Comfort Plus from Spokane and that never happens. Over time and by checking the Delta website every. single. day. my persistence was rewarded and I was able to buy up to Delta One on the international legs and use miles for the Spokane to SEA leg. I went Comfort Plus for the last leg home as it was never a reasonable buy up either with money or miles. All flights were on time (or early) and completely full.

EES Entry/Exit at CDG: In another thread I think the general consensus is that the EES entry system is consistently inconsistent at CDG. Coming in, I landed about 13:07 (early), deplaned about 13:17. We landed at an M gate at terminal 2E so you have to take the shuttle train to the K gates where the international arrivals hall is. There was no one in the area but our plane (they might have been finishing processing another batch just ahead of us). I went thru the Sky Priority lane and was directed to the EES kiosk where I had a picture taken, fingerprints done (this took about 5 times because ….well….old lady fingers!!), asked about 5 questions (including do you have enough money to cover your stay and do you have health insurance) and was then channeled into a line to see a border control agent. She looked at my passport then seemed to be waiting for the computer to update with what I’d input 50 feet away, lol, and sent me on my way (no stamp). I was out to the curb and in a taxi by 13:55. On leaving, I also went thru the Sky Priority/Delta One lane which is down a side corridor. There was no one ahead of me. The EES kiosks were closed with big red X’s. The staff member sent me to an egate where I was quickly processed and on my way without speaking to an agent. There were big signs out at Security saying not to take out liquids or electronics.

Hotels: With a 20 night stay I usually split between 2 hotels. I stay at Hotel Muguet and Hotel Relais Bosquet. At Relais Bosquet I usually pop for the extra 35E per night for an ET view room. Both hotels have people on the front desk 24/7 and look at whoever is entering the building which makes me feel pretty safe. Each hotel has its advantages. Muguet - wonderful linens, super towel heaters that will dry anything you hand wash!, fabulous Sergio on the front desk and is women-owned. Relais Bosquet - closer to the ET so you can watch it sparkle from your room, better breakfast, bigger room, small fridge. Both are near dozens of good places to eat. They are not used exclusively by Americans as the ladies checking into Muguet ahead of me were from Mali and the couple ahead of me at Relais Bosquet were from Ukraine.

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Metro cards: I have both a Navigo Easy and a Navigo Decouverte card. Last trip I could load rides/passes onto both cards on my phone but this time I could not get the Navigo Decouverte to scan at all so had to purchase it at the station. I was able to load rides on the Easy and yes, this time I’ve left myself a note saying how many rides are left, lol. I love having the Navigo Decouverte card when the weeks fall right even if I don’t wind up riding enough to make it more worthy than the Navigo Easy. Nothing to think about, just touch and go. I was never “controlled” which surprised me because the system was very crowded and I often change at Concorde which is a big tourist spot.

Friends of the” museum memberships: Last October I bought the Amis du Louvre card, the Carte Blanche for the Orsay and Orangerie and the Passions Monuments Subscription. They are all good for a year so covered me for this trip as well. This was possibly my best investment. I loved that particularly for the Louvre I could just go when I wanted to AND not feel bound to stay longer than a couple of hours. I love going into the side entrance where there are usually no lines.

Museums: I love museums! The Louvre is one of my favorites and I delight in finding all the nooks and crannies in there and staying away from the crowds. This time I was shocked because even the room where the Vermeers are was crowded at times and it’s usually not busy at all. I wound up doing the Louvre 3 times with one time visits to the Orsay (WONDERFUL Renoir exhibitions!), Orangerie, Invalides (yes, I found the tomb of Marshal Foch which was modeled after the 15C tomb in the Louvre of Philippe Pot- Thank you Lyndash), Cluny (yea Unicorns, lol!), Jacquemart-Andre (great activity for May 1 when everything else is closed), Musee des Art Decoritifs (VERY crowded), Museum of Jewish Art and History, Grand Palais (Matisse Exhibition was wonderful but also crowded). I never mind paying for a museum entry - always worth it to me!

Friend Meet-ups: I’m usually a pretty itinerary bound person but this time I led with making time for meeting friends and doing museums 2nd which was easier because of the passes I had. It’s amazing how many folks I know that are in or go thru Paris regularly. I also missed meeting up with several folks I wished I’d seen!

Health: Well, if I go to Paris in April again, I am going to have to do something proactive about allergies. The blooming horse chestnut trees drove me nuts. I could tell a huge difference on days I mostly did museums vs days I did a lot of outside stuff. In addition to allergies I got a heckuva cold the 3rd week. I mention the timing to emphasize I did not get this on the plane. I picked it up somewhere in Paris.

Fitness: Generally before I travel I like to be walking 3-4 miles at a go. This time I was only doing about 2 miles and it showed in my endurance. I had been doing a specific strength training program (Jessica Smith Your Best Year Yet) and could tell a huge difference in Upper Body strength by how easily I could pop my suitcase up into the overhead….But I won’t be lax again with my pre-trip walking, though! I think Jessica’s legs segments helped with stairs in the Metro and Museums, though!

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Capsule wardrobe: I was looking for a new color combo for my capsule wardrobe this trip. I thought I’d found the perfect scarf from Echo but when I got it it was more brown and orange than I like so back it went. I defaulted to one that I already had which is a Cactus Bloom Wild Rag and has all the colors I like. This link goes to a store in Texas. I don’t think I purchased from them but it is this scarf that I have.

https://tinyurl.com/ha22ff9t

I packed 4 short sleeve tees - black, white, medium blue and purple and 2 long sleeve tees - pink and pale blue. I had 3 bottoms - dark wash jeans, black jeans and lightweight travel pants in black. I also had a gray drifit quarter zip, a LS chambray shirt, a puffy vest and a rain layer. I wore everything except one of the long sleeve tee shirts but you never know! I packed an extra pair of shoes that weren’t out of the suitcase but I’ll never go without a backup. Also had flipflops and yes, while I don’t wear pajamas to the hotel breakfast room I do go down with wet hair and wearing flipflops. The rain jacket was not needed until the end of my trip when there were absolute deluges and I was glad of the waterproofiness. I just don’t travel to Europe without a rain jacket.

Weather: It was apparently the driest April in Paris in years! I had absolutely NO rain until the last weekend. It was chilly my first few days, in fact one of the 1st mornings the guy at reception said…it’s cold out there you need a jacket, hahaha. I thought…harrumph, I’m an Idaho gal. Well I froze my Idaho bee-hind off sitting in a cold metal chair in the Luxembourg Gardens. Yes, I wore more clothing after that, hahaha! Some days during the 2nd week it was so warm I was hot in just a short sleeve tee and the travel pants but not enough that I was miserable. To me the best tactic for Paris is to always have a waterproof rain layer, a puffy vest, a long sleeve topper and some shirts that will be good if it gets warm. I also made good use of a pop-up hand fan I have. I got them on Amazon and have one stuck in every purse and personal item.

New travel gear…and how it worked: I got enabled by the Tom Bihn aficionados here on the forum last Fall and got my first TB pieces. This trip I added a TB Side Hustle bag for my main purse. I had seen reviews that said the strap squeaked but I tried it out at home and it did not seem to be a problem. The issue was I did not have it loaded as much as I do when I’m traveling and yes it squeaked and yes it drove me nuts. Holy cow. I will have to get a new strap. The size worked well as I wanted to be able to put some art supplies in as well as normal daily stuff. I got the smaller toiletry kit (Standard Spiff kit) which I did not like. It worked OK, it is light but I don’t like the curved zippers and don’t like that the bottom section is stitched in half which makes it less functional to me. I did like the ability to hang it. I also got the Clear 3D organizer cube for my 3-1-1 kit. I packed it with my toiletries in a ziplock in case I was asked to remove them along the way but neither in Spokane, nor on the return thru Paris or SLC were toiletries separated. I’ll still go with keeping them separate for the time being. This worked well because I was able to hang it or it will sit up on the counter if there is enough space whereas the plain ziplock bag won’t sit upright.

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Art: I’m putting this in it’s own paragraph so people can skip over this if you’re not interested! I have no innate artistic talent but I do know that you can develop skill in drawing and painting. I want to be able to be the person who is able to sketch in cool places on vacation! The back story is here: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/do-you-sketch-draw-paint-do-art-when-traveling

So far, since last August I’ve been able to do some kind of art every day even if it’s for 5 minutes. I wanted to continue that in Paris. I did a search before I left on watercolor classes in Paris and found a couple, one was thru Air BnB Experiences for heaven’s sake. I signed up for a 3 hour watercolor class in the Luxembourg Gardens with an artist named Kristina. This was one of my trip highlights!! She was such fun and SO encouraging. Absolutely no experience necessary and a couple of the people were very much beginners. We met at the Odeon and walked to the gardens. She positioned us in the shade but not where she thought we’d get pooped on by the parakeets! She was very helpful to me in working out perspective. IF you are going to Paris and want a fun but different morning, this is a good activity!

https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/60875?location=Paris%2C%20France&currentTab=experience_tab&federatedSearchId=af3bcbfe-f326-43f3-8937-bb2ac6175222&searchId=928c036f-d7d3-4a2b-a0c5-a66341ea61dd&sectionId=ae6dbd43-13b7-440d-a435-aa56d8781fc4

I also did her Urban Sketching class which was harder for me as by then I had a cold and was coughing plus she’d brought little stools for us to use but I knew if I got down on one I’d never get up, hahaha! We walked around the Latin Quarter drawing different scenes. She was just as encouraging and helpful.

Because Kristina gave me some confidence I actually sketched in the Louvre. I asked a guard in the room where the Vase of Alienor d’Aquitaine is located if I could sketch. She said yes, absolutely, but no colors or water. She also thanked me for asking first. There is almost no one who stops at this cabinet so I was not blocking anyone plus it’s on an end and can be viewed from 3 sides so plenty of room. I had a great time and yes, everyone ignored me! I would not try to sketch in one of the busy galleries! I also sketched in Saint-Etienne-du-Mont. I love the double helix rood screen and gave sketching it a try. I’d asked Kristina if it was OK to sketch in a church and she said yes, no problem and she was right. No one even seemed to notice me. In addition to sketching in the above places, I also sketched in the Tuileries, the Luxembourg Gardens at the Medici Fountain, the Square du Vert-Galant among others.

I also signed up for a Botanic Sketching in the Tuileries thru GetYourGuide. However, immediately after I signed up the artist messaged and asked if we could change days and that did not work for me so I cancelled. I got an immediate refund on my money from GYG.

I’d never been one to use either of these companies but I can now see the point. Neither artist was on any other platform so it would not have been possible to book another way.

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Art supplies: Of course I took too much. I expect beginners do! I took an 8x5.5 watercolor sketchbook, a smaller watercolor sketchbook that is 3.5x5.5 so is a good fit in my purse plus several pieces of watercolor paper cut to 2x3 with a small piece of foam core to mount them on. I took an Art Toolkit Pocket Palette that is the size of a credit card and about double the thickness. I loaded it up with 9 colors from tubes of both Winsor and Newton and Daniel Smith. I took 3 waterbrushes and one travel brush. I took a small plastic lidded container for water in the hotel room.I also had various Pigma Micron pens, took some Neocolor II crayons and a couple of Derwent Inktense watercolor pencils in green. Plus some paper towel, an athletic wrist band to use to dab off my brushes, a drawing pencil, kneaded eraser, some washi tape, a small ruler (which I lost somewhere along the way) and pencil sharpener. Except for the big sketchbook, this fit in a small travelon cube although I had a lighter weight pouch that I carried for my day stuff.

EEK….art shopping: I went to one art supply store and got some of the brushes Kristina was using in her class. I liked how they felt and held water. I had a wonderful time poking around in there and restrained myself to a few brushes and pens.

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Overall thoughts: All in all this was a wonderful time in Paris! I saw friends, sketched and painted as much as I wanted, visited museums and churches, sat in gardens, ate (and drank Saint-Germain Spritzes) on terraces and enjoyed myself thoroughly! The flowers were gorgeous, skies were blue and my soul was refreshed!!

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Pam, what an awesome trip report! I loved reading about your 20 nights in Paris – so cool!. You did make me laugh when you mentioned "old lady fingers" because I have the same issue!

And I know what you mean about practicing walking beforehand. I'm a little worried because, with my leg in a brace and the injury, it's been hard to get out and walk any. I did see my ortho today, and he said it's healing well and I should be able to take the brace off in about two to four weeks. That's good. Then I can start walking, although it will probably have to be slowly and surely for a while. You are inspiring me to get out there!

That's interesting that they didn't make you separate your ziploc from the toiletries bag. They've done that in the past to me, and that's why I do exactly what you did, which is put my toiletries in a separate ziplock bag inside the clear toiletries bag from Tom Bihn. Like you, I will probably still continue to do so, just in case. Those ladies there FREAK me out when they get upset about something and I want to make sure I appease them, lol!

I just love that you took all those art classes and so on. That must have been so much fun! It makes me want to start taking more classes now when I go someplace. So cool! Thanks again for the great trip report!

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I'm with Mardee, wonderful trip report and I loved all your tips. I had never thought of taking classes when traveling and I take OLLI classes (Osher Lifelong Learning) through the Univ of MN here at home. I will definitely check out what kind of classes I can take for my next adventure. Thanks for such a thorough and useful report.