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Trip Report: Paris April 15 - May 6, '26

"Caution....this is pretty long with detail and chatter, so if this bothers you it's better to move on to the next thread!"

Due to various outside factors a tour did not work out for me this spring so I decided to go to Paris for 3 weeks and have a ā€œstaycationā€, hahaha! It is a mystery to me as to why I love Paris so much! I am SO not a big city gal but something about Paris just resonates with me. Part of it is that I stay in a fairly quiet area and I generally know where to go to get away from throngs, including a few areas in the Louvre where there are few people!

I first visited Paris in 1973 and was not terribly comfortable but it was my first trip abroad. I also visited in 1974 and 1976 and just didn’t like it. I finally went back in 2014 on the RS 21 day Best of Europe tour and followed that with Rick’s Best of Paris tour. That sealed the deal. Both Dimitri and Rolinka, my guides, helped me understand Paris and how to get around efficiently.

Flights: I am a Delta flyer so flew Spokane->Seattle->CDG and CDG->SLC->Spokane. I got an unbelievable deal on the RT ticket. In fact I wasn’t even planning to buy the day I looked but the price was $793 RT Comfort Plus from Spokane and that never happens. Over time and by checking the Delta website every. single. day. my persistence was rewarded and I was able to buy up to Delta One on the international legs and use miles for the Spokane to SEA leg. I went Comfort Plus for the last leg home as it was never a reasonable buy up either with money or miles. All flights were on time (or early) and completely full.

EES Entry/Exit at CDG: In another thread I think the general consensus is that the EES entry system is consistently inconsistent at CDG. Coming in, I landed about 13:07 (early), deplaned about 13:17. We landed at an M gate at terminal 2E so you have to take the shuttle train to the K gates where the international arrivals hall is. There was no one in the area but our plane (they might have been finishing processing another batch just ahead of us). I went thru the Sky Priority lane and was directed to the EES kiosk where I had a picture taken, fingerprints done (this took about 5 times because ….well….old lady fingers!!), asked about 5 questions (including do you have enough money to cover your stay and do you have health insurance) and was then channeled into a line to see a border control agent. She looked at my passport then seemed to be waiting for the computer to update with what I’d input 50 feet away, lol, and sent me on my way (no stamp). I was out to the curb and in a taxi by 13:55. On leaving, I also went thru the Sky Priority/Delta One lane which is down a side corridor. There was no one ahead of me. The EES kiosks were closed with big red X’s. The staff member sent me to an egate where I was quickly processed and on my way without speaking to an agent. There were big signs out at Security saying not to take out liquids or electronics.

Hotels: With a 20 night stay I usually split between 2 hotels. I stay at Hotel Muguet and Hotel Relais Bosquet. At Relais Bosquet I usually pop for the extra 35E per night for an ET view room. Both hotels have people on the front desk 24/7 and look at whoever is entering the building which makes me feel pretty safe. Each hotel has its advantages. Muguet - wonderful linens, super towel heaters that will dry anything you hand wash!, fabulous Sergio on the front desk and is women-owned. Relais Bosquet - closer to the ET so you can watch it sparkle from your room, better breakfast, bigger room, small fridge. Both are near dozens of good places to eat. They are not used exclusively by Americans as the ladies checking into Muguet ahead of me were from Mali and the couple ahead of me at Relais Bosquet were from Ukraine.

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Metro cards: I have both a Navigo Easy and a Navigo Decouverte card. Last trip I could load rides/passes onto both cards on my phone but this time I could not get the Navigo Decouverte to scan at all so had to purchase it at the station. I was able to load rides on the Easy and yes, this time I’ve left myself a note saying how many rides are left, lol. I love having the Navigo Decouverte card when the weeks fall right even if I don’t wind up riding enough to make it more worthy than the Navigo Easy. Nothing to think about, just touch and go. I was never ā€œcontrolledā€ which surprised me because the system was very crowded and I often change at Concorde which is a big tourist spot.

ā€œFriends of theā€ museum memberships: Last October I bought the Amis du Louvre card, the Carte Blanche for the Orsay and Orangerie and the Passions Monuments Subscription. They are all good for a year so covered me for this trip as well. This was possibly my best investment. I loved that particularly for the Louvre I could just go when I wanted to AND not feel bound to stay longer than a couple of hours. I love going into the side entrance where there are usually no lines.

Museums: I love museums! The Louvre is one of my favorites and I delight in finding all the nooks and crannies in there and staying away from the crowds. This time I was shocked because even the room where the Vermeers are was crowded at times and it’s usually not busy at all. I wound up doing the Louvre 3 times with one time visits to the Orsay (WONDERFUL Renoir exhibitions!), Orangerie, Invalides (yes, I found the tomb of Marshal Foch which was modeled after the 15C tomb in the Louvre of Philippe Pot- Thank you Lyndash), Cluny (yea Unicorns, lol!), Jacquemart-Andre (great activity for May 1 when everything else is closed), Musee des Art Decoritifs (VERY crowded), Museum of Jewish Art and History, Grand Palais (Matisse Exhibition was wonderful but also crowded). I never mind paying for a museum entry - always worth it to me!

Friend Meet-ups: I’m usually a pretty itinerary bound person but this time I led with making time for meeting friends and doing museums 2nd which was easier because of the passes I had. It’s amazing how many folks I know that are in or go thru Paris regularly. I also missed meeting up with several folks I wished I’d seen!

Health: Well, if I go to Paris in April again, I am going to have to do something proactive about allergies. The blooming horse chestnut trees drove me nuts. I could tell a huge difference on days I mostly did museums vs days I did a lot of outside stuff. In addition to allergies I got a heckuva cold the 3rd week. I mention the timing to emphasize I did not get this on the plane. I picked it up somewhere in Paris.

Fitness: Generally before I travel I like to be walking 3-4 miles at a go. This time I was only doing about 2 miles and it showed in my endurance. I had been doing a specific strength training program (Jessica Smith Your Best Year Yet) and could tell a huge difference in Upper Body strength by how easily I could pop my suitcase up into the overhead….But I won’t be lax again with my pre-trip walking, though! I think Jessica’s legs segments helped with stairs in the Metro and Museums, though!

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Capsule wardrobe: I was looking for a new color combo for my capsule wardrobe this trip. I thought I’d found the perfect scarf from Echo but when I got it it was more brown and orange than I like so back it went. I defaulted to one that I already had which is a Cactus Bloom Wild Rag and has all the colors I like. This link goes to a store in Texas. I don’t think I purchased from them but it is this scarf that I have.

https://tinyurl.com/ha22ff9t

I packed 4 short sleeve tees - black, white, medium blue and purple and 2 long sleeve tees - pink and pale blue. I had 3 bottoms - dark wash jeans, black jeans and lightweight travel pants in black. I also had a gray drifit quarter zip, a LS chambray shirt, a puffy vest and a rain layer. I wore everything except one of the long sleeve tee shirts but you never know! I packed an extra pair of shoes that weren’t out of the suitcase but I’ll never go without a backup. Also had flipflops and yes, while I don’t wear pajamas to the hotel breakfast room I do go down with wet hair and wearing flipflops. The rain jacket was not needed until the end of my trip when there were absolute deluges and I was glad of the waterproofiness. I just don’t travel to Europe without a rain jacket.

Weather: It was apparently the driest April in Paris in years! I had absolutely NO rain until the last weekend. It was chilly my first few days, in fact one of the 1st mornings the guy at reception said…it’s cold out there you need a jacket, hahaha. I thought…harrumph, I’m an Idaho gal. Well I froze my Idaho bee-hind off sitting in a cold metal chair in the Luxembourg Gardens. Yes, I wore more clothing after that, hahaha! Some days during the 2nd week it was so warm I was hot in just a short sleeve tee and the travel pants but not enough that I was miserable. To me the best tactic for Paris is to always have a waterproof rain layer, a puffy vest, a long sleeve topper and some shirts that will be good if it gets warm. I also made good use of a pop-up hand fan I have. I got them on Amazon and have one stuck in every purse and personal item.

New travel gear…and how it worked: I got enabled by the Tom Bihn aficionados here on the forum last Fall and got my first TB pieces. This trip I added a TB Side Hustle bag for my main purse. I had seen reviews that said the strap squeaked but I tried it out at home and it did not seem to be a problem. The issue was I did not have it loaded as much as I do when I’m traveling and yes it squeaked and yes it drove me nuts. Holy cow. I will have to get a new strap. The size worked well as I wanted to be able to put some art supplies in as well as normal daily stuff. I got the smaller toiletry kit (Standard Spiff kit) which I did not like. It worked OK, it is light but I don’t like the curved zippers and don’t like that the bottom section is stitched in half which makes it less functional to me. I did like the ability to hang it. I also got the Clear 3D organizer cube for my 3-1-1 kit. I packed it with my toiletries in a ziplock in case I was asked to remove them along the way but neither in Spokane, nor on the return thru Paris or SLC were toiletries separated. I’ll still go with keeping them separate for the time being. This worked well because I was able to hang it or it will sit up on the counter if there is enough space whereas the plain ziplock bag won’t sit upright.

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Art: I’m putting this in it’s own paragraph so people can skip over this if you’re not interested! I have no innate artistic talent but I do know that you can develop skill in drawing and painting. I want to be able to be the person who is able to sketch in cool places on vacation! The back story is here: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/do-you-sketch-draw-paint-do-art-when-traveling

So far, since last August I’ve been able to do some kind of art every day even if it’s for 5 minutes. I wanted to continue that in Paris. I did a search before I left on watercolor classes in Paris and found a couple, one was thru Air BnB Experiences for heaven’s sake. I signed up for a 3 hour watercolor class in the Luxembourg Gardens with an artist named Kristina. This was one of my trip highlights!! She was such fun and SO encouraging. Absolutely no experience necessary and a couple of the people were very much beginners. We met at the Odeon and walked to the gardens. She positioned us in the shade but not where she thought we’d get pooped on by the parakeets! She was very helpful to me in working out perspective. IF you are going to Paris and want a fun but different morning, this is a good activity!

https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/60875?location=Paris%2C%20France&currentTab=experience_tab&federatedSearchId=af3bcbfe-f326-43f3-8937-bb2ac6175222&searchId=928c036f-d7d3-4a2b-a0c5-a66341ea61dd&sectionId=ae6dbd43-13b7-440d-a435-aa56d8781fc4

I also did her Urban Sketching class which was harder for me as by then I had a cold and was coughing plus she’d brought little stools for us to use but I knew if I got down on one I’d never get up, hahaha! We walked around the Latin Quarter drawing different scenes. She was just as encouraging and helpful.

Because Kristina gave me some confidence I actually sketched in the Louvre. I asked a guard in the room where the Vase of Alienor d’Aquitaine is located if I could sketch. She said yes, absolutely, but no colors or water. She also thanked me for asking first. There is almost no one who stops at this cabinet so I was not blocking anyone plus it’s on an end and can be viewed from 3 sides so plenty of room. I had a great time and yes, everyone ignored me! I would not try to sketch in one of the busy galleries! I also sketched in Saint-Etienne-du-Mont. I love the double helix rood screen and gave sketching it a try. I’d asked Kristina if it was OK to sketch in a church and she said yes, no problem and she was right. No one even seemed to notice me. In addition to sketching in the above places, I also sketched in the Tuileries, the Luxembourg Gardens at the Medici Fountain, the Square du Vert-Galant among others.

I also signed up for a Botanic Sketching in the Tuileries thru GetYourGuide. However, immediately after I signed up the artist messaged and asked if we could change days and that did not work for me so I cancelled. I got an immediate refund on my money from GYG.

I’d never been one to use either of these companies but I can now see the point. Neither artist was on any other platform so it would not have been possible to book another way.

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Art supplies: Of course I took too much. I expect beginners do! I took an 8x5.5 watercolor sketchbook, a smaller watercolor sketchbook that is 3.5x5.5 so is a good fit in my purse plus several pieces of watercolor paper cut to 2x3 with a small piece of foam core to mount them on. I took an Art Toolkit Pocket Palette that is the size of a credit card and about double the thickness. I loaded it up with 9 colors from tubes of both Winsor and Newton and Daniel Smith. I took 3 waterbrushes and one travel brush. I took a small plastic lidded container for water in the hotel room.I also had various Pigma Micron pens, took some Neocolor II crayons and a couple of Derwent Inktense watercolor pencils in green. Plus some paper towel, an athletic wrist band to use to dab off my brushes, a drawing pencil, kneaded eraser, some washi tape, a small ruler (which I lost somewhere along the way) and pencil sharpener. Except for the big sketchbook, this fit in a small travelon cube although I had a lighter weight pouch that I carried for my day stuff.

EEK….art shopping: I went to one art supply store and got some of the brushes Kristina was using in her class. I liked how they felt and held water. I had a wonderful time poking around in there and restrained myself to a few brushes and pens.

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Overall thoughts: All in all this was a wonderful time in Paris! I saw friends, sketched and painted as much as I wanted, visited museums and churches, sat in gardens, ate (and drank Saint-Germain Spritzes) on terraces and enjoyed myself thoroughly! The flowers were gorgeous, skies were blue and my soul was refreshed!!

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Pam, what an awesome trip report! I loved reading about your 20 nights in Paris – so cool!. You did make me laugh when you mentioned "old lady fingers" because I have the same issue!

And I know what you mean about practicing walking beforehand. I'm a little worried because, with my leg in a brace and the injury, it's been hard to get out and walk any. I did see my ortho today, and he said it's healing well and I should be able to take the brace off in about two to four weeks. That's good. Then I can start walking, although it will probably have to be slowly and surely for a while. You are inspiring me to get out there!

That's interesting that they didn't make you separate your ziploc from the toiletries bag. They've done that in the past to me, and that's why I do exactly what you did, which is put my toiletries in a separate ziplock bag inside the clear toiletries bag from Tom Bihn. Like you, I will probably still continue to do so, just in case. Those ladies there FREAK me out when they get upset about something and I want to make sure I appease them, lol!

I just love that you took all those art classes and so on. That must have been so much fun! It makes me want to start taking more classes now when I go someplace. So cool! Thanks again for the great trip report!

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2551 posts

I'm with Mardee, wonderful trip report and I loved all your tips. I had never thought of taking classes when traveling and I take OLLI classes (Osher Lifelong Learning) through the Univ of MN here at home. I will definitely check out what kind of classes I can take for my next adventure. Thanks for such a thorough and useful report.

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1073 posts

Great report Pam……thank you. Wanted to add that my husband and I walk 3 miles every day in Franklin, Tennessee where we live and have LOTS of options to do so…..we try to average at least 6 miles a day when traveling. We never take the subways or tubes so that we can get in the 6 or greater miles daily…..today in Paris it was 9. We are 2 74 year olds that are very serious about our fitness and I do think the prep at home…..been doing this since Covid……has paid off.

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4085 posts

Hooray for fun trip reports! I'm so glad you had a good time and made excellent use of your museum passes. And the art experiences sounded great even to this person with two thumbs and zero talent. You've inspired me to think about branching out!

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Thanks Pam, what a great trip report! Wow, 20 days basking in Paris. I'm trying to decide if I would prefer fine linens or a larger room with a view of the ET, but you had the best of both worlds! I too love museums - 2 hours at the Louvre would be perfect, and you used those passes for 2 trips. The art classes you took sound great, WHY have I never thought of this before?!

Had a look at St. Germain Spritz, sounds wonderful! Do you tend to take a picnic or do you eat out occasionally? I just don't want to sit down in a restaurant every day, but we do prefer the services of a hotel.

Good for you for getting out walking before your trip, in Idaho in what probably wasn't ideal weather.

While I don’t wear pajamas to the hotel breakfast room I do go down with wet hair and wearing flip flops. Haha, me too, seriously no one cares. I have a very casual, lightweight black pants & long sleeved t-shirt I only wear in the hotel. Look forward to the next adventure, hey didn't you mention on the Forum you're going back to Paris in December??

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Pam, wonderful trip report…almost like being there! Your choices and descriptions of hotels are so helpful!
Welcome home!

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Yay! What a lovely time! Welcome home. I can't imagine how cool it must feel to sketch at the Louvre!

I'm inferring that the Louvre never asked for a time slot for you when they saw your card? They had on their website at one point for everyone to reserve a time but they didn't check me last April or October. And I have some small anxiety about my membership card having last year's date though I renewed it and I get their magazines and I didn't have to pay when I checked out . I imagine they can scan it and all will be well?

I'm excited for the Renoir exhibit! And the sculpture exhibit at the Louvre.

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506 posts

Welcome home. What a great time you had. Hopefully we'll see you in June and bring some of your artwork.

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Thanks for reading!

@Mardee - The weird thing was when I was going thru exit security at CDG one of the guards was standing there WITH ZIPLOCKS IN HIS HAND!! I saw him casually chatting with another guard and thought...OK, get ready to pull them out, then 2 feet further saw the sign saying no need for electronics or toiletries so I don't know what he was doing. I know many people take cooking classes but that is just not my thing. THIS was perfect for my current interests!

@LaurieBeth - I actually didn't realize there would be the possibility of doing art classes so do a google and then also look on AirBnB although the classes thru them came up on Google. I figured it was the same as doing a specialist tour which I've done before and certainly don't mind paying for!

@BB - Thanks for reading!

@Jane - Yes 5-6 miles is often my average in Paris. I did that amount a few days this trip but whew...it was a lot in my current level of fitness!

@CL - I don't want you to think I have any talent at all because I don't, lol. I don't but it makes me happy to sit and sketch.

@Sandancisco - The Saint-Germain Spritz tastes different each location. I died laughing because one cafe had the glass filled with mint leaves with was delicious. I asked the waiter if that counted as salad and we both had a laugh. Hopefully going back in December but a family member has announced a wedding so that might be deferred. We'll see....eyeroll. And yes, I often get a baguette from a boulangerie and eat in a park. I don't want to cook at all but I also don't always want a full meal so a sandwich and water does me fine for lunch. Or a bigger meal at lunch with a friend and then cookies or chocolate or gelato for dinner, hahahaha!!

@Cathy! Thanks! I missed seeing Brenda and Robert as I was sick and coughing and did not want to infect them at the beginning of their trip! I did catch up with Judy!

@pbscd - Believe it or not I thought of you and your daughter. No, I did not need a timed entry. I went in the Richelieu passage entrance and no one batted an eye. You will be able to get inside with no problem. IF your card won't scan at the booth to one of the wings they'll direct you downstairs to the Amis du Louvre office where the very nice staff will fix your card. Do NOT worry about this BUT I would go when their office is open. Oh! I forgot to mention the Michelangelo/Rodin exhibition! It was excellent. They did not have a lot of the Michelangelo statuary as it is fragile and doesn't get moved much. There were 3 pieces down there, I think. What cracked me up was all the sketches Rodin had done of those Michelangelo pieces in the Louvre when he was a student! Very cool! There is also a new gallery called the Cinq Continents with art from Africa, Asia, the Americas. It was difficult to find, had to ask directions a couple of times but basically is right beside the Porte des Lions entrance, you just can't get there from here...wherever "here" is, hahaha!

@Leslie - Yes, I'll be there in June! And no, you do not need to see my artwork although I will bring it. I am very much not good but it makes me happy! I missed you at the Bastille Market! "OUR" Stripey shirt guy has retired and we have to buy from someone new now!

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9753 posts

Pam, love your trip reports & an amazing Delta price! Good job! This report made me extra happy - both because you’re painting on vacation, and also because the trip felt carefree, yet well planned.

I smiled when reading about bringing too many art supplies because I was just fussing around with my watercolor pencils this morning & various hardnesses of graphite sketch pencils. Every decision gets weighed in my mind picturing colorful sketches or just B&W & walking everything up those steep Umbria towns - LOL! I’m 95% packed at least.

I won’t use any harsh cleaners or sandpaper in the next few days with these ā€œold lady fingersā€! ; ). I need fingerprints in two days!

And yes, bring your paintings to the local meet up in July & share how each felt so special! That’s worth packing those extra supplies any day. : ).

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The weird thing was when I was going thru exit security at CDG one of the guards was standing there WITH ZIPLOCKS IN HIS HAND!! I saw him casually chatting with another guard and thought...OK, get ready to pull them out, then 2 feet further saw the sign saying no need for electronics or toiletries so I don't know what he was doing.

Haha, maybe it was there for his stash of pot! šŸ˜‚

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My fingerprints never went through when I applied for Global Entry a few years ago…I don’t think it’s an issue now with facial recognition and biometrics, but EES will be interesting next month for me. A very nice GE person explained that the secret is keeping your hands as ā€œun-dryā€ as possible, and the problems arise when people use the bathrooms on arrival, wash their hands, and take away any natural oils. They suggest rubbing one’s forehead. Sigh.

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2350 posts

Pam, aside from your cold and allergies, WOW, you really did have a great trip- Artist in Paris!

Your investment in memberships has really paid off. The luxury of not being tied to a schedule is priceless.
I'm glad your Airbnb Experience lived up to its promise. I've never booked one before, but I have been curious.

Thanks for sharing your trip report. Welcome home!

PS Sorry the new scarf didn't work out, but your Floral and Cactus scarf is beautiful.

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4193 posts

A great report, as usual!
I wonder if you sat in a busy area sketching if anyone would approach to buy one of your works!
We could all then say we knew you before you were famous! ;)
Good for you for being an artist in a favourite city!
I had a staycation of 12 days in Paris in February and it was not long enough.
I looked up the St Germain Spritz…..just as I thought….it’s known as a Hugo Spritz in Italy.
My favourite when I’m there, and we make them here at home too.
So refreshing.

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114 posts

What a fabulous trip!! I’m so jealous of all the amazing exhibits you got to see….and all the spritzes you enjoyed. The art classes sound amazing too. Sounds like you found a great instructor. I loved the Relais Bosquet…will have to check out the Muguet as well. I just recently learned that muguet means Lily of the Valley, which people exchange on May Day for good luck, so very appropriate timing for you :)

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3953 posts

Great report Pam, it sounds like a dream trip! Friends, flowers and art. And a long stay!

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1846 posts

Hi again, Tammy's comment really got me thinking about our 'Travel Trifecta' - Yours might well be Friends, flowers and art, in Paris?

Wow, you walked 6 miles some days in a big city, good for you. I've found pool walking really helps to get ready for travel - Less hard on joints and seriously saved me on those hard uneven stones in Pompeii!

Really agree with JeanM, about paying for memberships - The luxury of not being tied to a schedule is priceless.

A delightful report, Pam. You are inspiring me to spend a week or so in Paris in the spring. I too love museums and churches. I haven’t taken up art yet but I would explore different neighborhoods and take in concerts and people watch while sitting at outdoor cafes. Also, definitely lots of walking.

I enjoyed staying in the Hotel Muguet while on a Rick Steves tour. I would check out the Relais Bosquet.

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I looked up the St Germain Spritz…..just as I thought….it’s known as a Hugo Spritz in Italy.

TexasTravelMom introduced me to a Hugo in Bucharest, and it was really wonderful. Now I will definitely have to try a St-Germain Spritz when I get to Paris next. I was curious, so I looked up the ingredients, and here is what I found.

A Hugo Spritz is a popular, refreshing Italian sparkling cocktail created in 2005, featuring Prosecco, elderflower liqueur (commonly St-Germain), soda water, mint, and lime. It was created by bartender Roland Gruber in South Tyrol, Italy, as a lighter, floral alternative to the bitter Aperol Spritz. While sometimes confused with a "St-Germain Spritz," a Hugo specifically includes fresh mint and lime.

And here's the ingredients if you want to try it:

  • 3 oz (90 ml) Prosecco
  • 2 oz (60 ml) Elderflower Liqueur or Syrup
  • 1 oz (30 ml) Soda Water
  • Mint leaves
  • Lime wedge
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1846 posts

Thanks Mardee! I was wondering about the exact ingredients.

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774 posts

Always a big smile on my face whenever I see a TR from you, Pam. Another great one. I too love St Germaine drinks, adding prosecco/champagne is the best. I laughed a while back when reading an article that some are starting to refer to St Germaine as the ketchup of bartenders. Haha

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610 posts

Pam- as always I loved the detail in your trip report! Thanks for sharing Paris with us.

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2628 posts

Pam, I’m guessing you’ve read Adventures in the Louvre by Elaine Sciolino, but if not I think you’d enjoy it. She gives a lot of tips about less busy areas. I’m glad you had a good trip.

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11550 posts

Thanks for the great trip report. Paris is always a good idea. I agree that meeting up with friends if possible is an important aspect of fulfilling travel.

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17204 posts

Wow...lots of catching up to do!

@Jean - I hope you are adding a little bit of color to your kit! I know you go so lightly but a little indulgence might be fun especially if it's under half a pound, lol!! And yes, do what Cathy suggested below which is to rub your fingers on your forehead if they won't read. I'd read that or Cathy had told me before but I did not have the sense to remember it. IF ONLY you didn't have to do the EES when you are in a travel tired state!

@Mardee - or perhaps confiscated CBD oil, hahahaha!

@Cathy - Good reminder. I think you might have mentioned that at a meet up but my tired brain did not think of it!

@jeanm - I was disappointed with the other scarf too. I don't think I've ever had that much of a difference in an online picture and the actual item. I do love the cactus print and it goes with generally everything I wear! I kept intending to use the Passions subscription but never got around to visiting any of the places. A couple of times I thought about a revisit of Hotel de la Marine but it just never fit in. Well, I got good use out of it last Fall and was still glad I had it.

@S J - I've made Aperol spritz's at home but never a Hugo so I will need to see if I can hunt down the elderflower liquor at one of our Idaho state liquor stores. I am not hopeful, lol. I had one person make a comment on one of my sketches and it was probably the best one of the group. She said "very pretty" but no way are they quality enough to sell. Unless I was 5 years old, hahaha!

@MaggieD - Yes, May 1 there were little booths set up everywhere selling Muguet! There was a Red Cross/Croix Rouge stand with American student volunteers set up by the Ecole Militaire Metro in front of La Terrasse and on Rue Cler there was the local ambulance crew, with ambulance and equipment selling them. I like both hotels. Muguet is usually a little cheaper than Bosquet but both very fine 3* hotels.

@Tammy - If only it had been a week or so longer so I could have met up with you and Valerie! We need to plan better next time!

@ Sandancisco - Oh I LOVE that! Travel Trifecta...!!! Yes, for sure! I just looked back at my workout notes and I did do quite a bit of work on the rebounder which is easier on the joints but really, I need to move over land for the best effect, I think. I did do a few sessions of Japanese walking that my YouTube rebounder instructor does (3 minutes low intensity bouncing, 3 minutes of higher intensity x 6 or 7 rounds I think) but I don't think I did enough sessions to make a difference.

@JudyB - Oh, fun you stayed at Muguet on a RS tour. I knew a couple of them stayed there but I've never been when a tour was also booked in. Yes, definitely to a week in Paris. Maybe 10 days. Honestly, as much time as you can throw at it, lol. Even with 3 weeks, I did not get everything crossed off my "to-do list"!!

@ Mardee - Thanks for the recipe! I guess from the description the Saint-Germain spritz does not include mint and lime BUT in reality many of them do. And funny they were developed in South Tirol!

@Luv2Travel - "I laughed a while back when reading an article that some are starting to refer to St Germaine as the ketchup of bartenders. Haha". OMG...that IS hilarious! I'm not a HUGE elderflower fan...can be TOO floral for me but combined with prosecco...yum.

@Katiecem - Thanks for reading!

@BarbaraN - Thanks for reading!

@Janet - You know me too well, lol! Yes, I have read it. Originally checked it out from the library, then went ahead and got it on Kindle so I could always have it with me. I usually start some research using it for things to look for if I'm stuck for a plan (hahaha). I do want to do her "Tuesday at the Louvre" plan....some day. When I have time. Hahahaha!!

@ Andrea - You were sorely missed as was Mr. Andrea. Hugs to you both.

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1846 posts

I downloaded a preview of Adventures in the Louvre by Elaine Sciolino, wayyy too much detail for me, until our next trip to Paris, then it's going on the list! 'Tuesday at the Louvre' sounds like a good excerpt, let's see if the library has it. I learn so much from reading trip reports, thanks again Pam!

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3038 posts

Pam, I loved reading your report. I have thought many times about a long stay in one place, Paris being one of the top options. My fear is that I would get bored or get the urge to move on. Your report made it sound so wonderful. Thinking more about it… maybe some day…

Thanks for an entertaining read!

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11550 posts

Carroll, we went to Paris for a month last Fall, my 9th trip there. Not only did I not get bored, but I didn’t even get to all the places I wanted to see. We did have time to meet up with friends and our ā€œsonā€ who was an exchange student. I didn’t want to move on after our month was up, but it was in the middle of an 11 week trip. I’m hope to do at least a month again, if not longer.

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11550 posts

Thanks Pam. Mr. Andrea and I missed seeing you all. We will see you in CdA in September!

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@Sandancisco - Someone here enabled me on that book possibly a year ago. Since Sciolino is a NYT journalist (retired) her writing style is easy and each chapter is more or less self-contained. You can dip in almost anywhere, read a chapter, and go on about your business, hahaha! I took notes for this last trip but will admit that I did not get to any of those locations. I'm sure your local library will have it or they can get it for you.

@Carroll - I don't get bored easily BUT like Andrea, there is so much on my to-do list for Paris that I will not ever see everything I want to see. In fact, one of the top things I thought I would finally get to, I did not. Sharyn from the forum has recommend Saint-Eustache church to me as they have a wonderful sculpture of market workers since this is the church to Les Halles the former veg/fruit market.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Eustache,_Paris

@Carroll continued, hahaha - You didn't ask for advice on planning a staycation but I would start with a list of everything in a location you want to see. I've collected mine for Paris over years of reading the forum, blogs, etc. Block out your days so you are covered for museum closure days which is always an issue Mondays and Tuesdays in Paris. I prefer several short visits to museums then out into a park or along the river for my brain to rest, hahaha! Plus what would be the problem with moving on if you needed to? Maybe 2 cities with longer stays if 1 city for say, 3 weeks, sounds like too much.

@Andrea - You guys were so busy for your Paris days last Fall! You inspired me!

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1846 posts

Pam, I must admit I'm about to buy 'Adventures in the Louvre' on my iPad once the sample ends. The description of the man who restored the Nike Winged Victory was amazing!!!

I would start with a list of everything in a location you want to see. I've
collected mine for Paris over years of reading the forum, blogs, etc.

You're so right, I keep adding to my Notes separately by city, ideas for places, food, museums, sites... My list for Rome is the longest, which given I've probably been there 28-30 times (who's counting?) makes no sense at all. I think it's my Paris!

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17204 posts

@Sandancisco - When she described how he found the random feather in a drawer/bin that belonged in Winged Victory's wing I was poleaxed! I completely understand about Rome being "your Paris". Funnily enough London used to be my go-to as I went often in the 70's and 80's and again when I returned to International travel in 2013....I have a long list for there but Paris has surpassed it recently!

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3038 posts

Pam, I will take your travel advice any time you want to give it. Thanks!

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6153 posts

Well, I finally got here to read it all. Sounds like you had a great time living in Paris! I feel like I could be heading for a longer stay like that somewhere - I just haven’t decided where. And it’s so cool to have a regular group of friends to meet up with!

For the Hugo, I ordered a bottle of the elderflower syrup from Amazon. LOL. It works great with seltzer water, too (that’s what I use at home). It’s a special occasion treat!

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9753 posts

An update for you - the EES was a breeze at Schiphol. I walked up to a bank of kiosks before I was in the latter option by Passport Control. I was dreading the fingerprints - both because I’m old & I figure playing the piano wears them down worse. Well, I had an acceptance on the 2nd fingerprint try! The Passport Control line was very long, but I timed it at 30 minutes.

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17204 posts

@Carroll - eyeroll on my part because you know I sometimes can't shut up!

@TTM - Oh....of all the places you've been it's interesting you might go for a longer stay somewhere. You have so many choices and I'm sure there are lots of destinations you'd want to go back to! Good thought on the elderflower syrup as well! We always have Pellegrino water so a dollop of the syrup in that would be a delicious refresher!

@Jean - Glad you had a good experience! So was the passport line 30 minutes plus your few minutes at the EES machines? And yea to your fingers working the 2nd time!

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1038 posts

Finally, I have the time to say thanks for your tr! I loved reading every word. Are you over re-entry to reality land yet? Obviously I can’t get enough of Paris and I’ve already booked my flight for Jan18 - Feb 9 next year. I’m doing 7 nights in Lille to start and then 14 in Paris. I’m staying at Hotel Muguet again. I will not tell Sergio about your split affections. You truly got an amazing price on Delta, I am paying $400 more for the next flight than the trip in Feb of this year, sigh. But, it’s Paris, so what are you going to do?

Question about your Amis du Louvre membership. Do you have a physical card? I did mine online and it’s in an email. I can call it up on my phone but I’m hoping to either get a physical card or get it into my Apple wallet. Were you able to get it into your wallet? I’ll have to go to the office under the pyramid next time.

What are your ā€˜must see every time in Paris’ museums or sites? Besides the Orsay, Orangerie and the Louvre, I’m pretty sure I’ll repeat the Marmottan but don’t think I have to go to the Rodin or the Army museum. Probably will go to Notre Dame every trip too.

I have to confess I own ā€˜Adventures in the Louvre’ 3 ways. I think we all got it on kindle for a really low price when it was first released and then I got it on Audible too. I reread it while researching going to Lens next year and thought, I really need an actual book to hold as well!

So Tom Bihn Side Hustle, what color did you get? I’ve got their Daylight Briefcase which is sort of one size up from the SH. I use it for my personal item and I don’t have any issues with squeaking, thank goodness. That’s really weird. Did you bring your Everyday Cubelet too? I use the fabric 3D cubes for various stuff, like my charging cables and cubes and plug adapters. All the stuff I used to use ziplocks for at a fraction of the price, but after getting sucked into the Mardee TB vortex, I now use something that makes me smile every time I handle it. I’ve now got 4 different sizes in 4 different colors.

I’m so happy you have preserved to the point of being able to sketch Eleanor of Aquitaine’s vase. How cool is that! Plus a watercolor class in the Luxembourg, how fun. I have to confess a total fail at my attempt to learn rudimentary technique. I followed that topic last September while we were at a lake for 2 weeks so I ordered a how to book (gotta love Amazon) and tried and tried but abandoned it after a week. After reading this I may try to find an adult education class to give it another go. Just being able to do small pencil drawings would make me so happy.

Also, any recommendations for restaurants/cafes in ā€˜our’ neighborhood or thereabouts? Sort the kind of place for less than a full meal? The Parisiennes near Florimond is good and open the whole day. I’m like you, frequently I don’t want a full meal. I do grab a sandwich here and there but sometimes a salad or bowl of soup would be perfect.

Also I loved your not new scarf. Beautiful colors, nice size and I love silk. I have many scarves of many fabrics but silk is my favorite.

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1846 posts

Pam, I did buy Adventures in the Louvre' on my iPad, there are some chapters I'm skimming, others like the restorer of the Winged Nike are fascinating, that he even knew where to LOOK in the cupboards for a single marble feather! Just consider yourself the Book Enabler! PS. Now that Lynndash says she owns it 3 different ways it doesn't seem like such a splurge.

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494 posts

Thanks for letting me travel along through your trip report! I only visited Paris once, 25 years ago! I've flown through CDG a lot though, and glad you had a quick entry with the new system.
Reading your trip report felt like I was there, so thank you for all the details.

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17204 posts

@Lynda - Hahaha...did I tell you that Sergio said...A friend of yours was here a couple of months ago! I said...a nice gal from Texas? Yes! he says. So he remembers you, hahaha. About the Amis du Louvre - I do not have a physical card. I went to the website then both printed out the card from there AND did a screenshot and saved it to my notes app on my phone. I always have the paper copy but have been able to scan the screenshot on my phone with no problem. You can easily go to the Amis du Louvre office on the entrance level and the nice folks in there will give you a physical card. I went in there last October with friends who wanted a physical card and it took maybe 10 minutes start to finish. Just make sure your first visit is during their office hours.

As far as must see museums - always the Louvre and the Orsay. I might skip the Orangerie next time because it is SO crowded. The day I went it was pouring rain. There were at least 100 people in line along the side under the line of trees waiting to get in. The line to the ladies restroom was out into the hall. I meant to go to the Marmottan this time but just did not make it. I only when to the Army Museum because I wanted to see that darn tomb you told me about, lol! Then since I was there I decided to whip thru the WWi and WWII galleries. Cluny is probably every other time unless they have a special exhibition. Carnavalet is probably every other time or every 3rd time. Rodin I haven't been to in a few years but I enjoyed his work on display in the Louvre at the Michelangelo - Rodin exhibition.

Tom Bihn stuff: "but after getting sucked into the Mardee TB vortex, I now use something that makes me smile every time I handle it.". Hahaha...that made me snort and laugh out loud! I got the Side Hustle in Navy with the green Selkie interior. I love just looking into the plain looking bag and seeing that gorgeous green! I did take the Everyday Cubelet and used it a couple of times the last few days when it was bucketing down rain. I had the Side Hustle stuffed too full to be zipped up under my rain jacket. I also wear the Everyday Cubelet on the plane but made sure there was room to stash it inside the Side Hustle which was inside my Personal Item for boarding. And....dang it! I see they have the Rogue Sacoche in Kelpie.....ohhhh, that is so pretty. I have it in Northwest Sky which is a great neutral color but I kind of feel swoony over the green!

I would love to take a drawing class but they are in short supply here. I do encourage you to take one if offered in your area! Much easier to establish a habit. My drawings are not skilled but honestly when I look at them what I remember is standing for 45 minutes in front of Alienor d'Aquitaine's vase and looking at every inch of it and thinking about her hands turning it over and over. That memory is priceless.

When I want a lighter meal, I usually go to Oniwa on Rue Cler. I can get a miso soup, spring rolls/nems and maybe some vegetarian California Roll and be more than satisfied. I had never been a big fan of miso soup until I had theirs. I also like Le Petit Cler for a lighter meal. Their croque monsieur is not too big and has a nice green salad with it. I ate at Tribeca this time and got avocado toast but it was huge. Delicious but really more than I wanted. Plus that means no room for cafe gourmand for dessert! I didn't make it there this time but I have also gone to the Vietnamese restaurant Dong Phat on Rue Malar for a lighter meal or when I am feeling short on veggies, hahaha!

I'm glad you liked the cactus scarf!

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17204 posts

@Sandancisco, hahahaha!!! I thought the same thing! I WILL admit to having it on Audiobook as well as on Kindle but I do not have the hard copy, hahahha! It's really something you can read when you are searching for something to hold your attention for 15 minutes. And yes, that the curator even knew where to look for a random marble feather, hahaha! Good grief! Wouldn't you love to just have a tour where you can go poke around in old cabinets or closets, hahaha!

@Joy - Perhaps you can be enabled to visit Paris, hahaha. I know there are some SF area folks in Paris right now if you go to the local meet ups!

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895 posts

Wonderful trip report, Pam! We are looking at taking an extended trip to Paris soon, because our son is moving there next month. Have you ever rented an apartment in Paris for your longer stays?

I'm a Tom Bihn fan, too. I agree with you that the Spiff Kit is a little disappointing, but I do like the Clear 3D Organizer Cube for liquids. I travel with the med. Cafe Bag and have started using the small Cafe Bag as my everyday purse at home. After reading your trip report this morning, I went online to check out the Side Hustle and the Everyday Cubelet!

Fun suggestion about taking the art class in Paris!

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17204 posts

@Christine - I actually use the Rogue Sacoche for my everyday purse at home, hahaha. AND I am looking at the one in the kelpie color....like I need another purse! It's very lightweight! I have never rented an apartment as I do not want to cook when I am on vacation. I cook every night at home for myself, my brother and SIL and just give myself a complete break when I travel. Not that you HAVE to cook if you have an apartment but that is an advantage of a kitchen. I have done some looking for apartments but I also don't want to pay up front as many of them require. I want to be able to cancel if something comes up.

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11550 posts

@Christine, we rented an apartment in Paris for a month last Fall and I could have stayed longer. It was my 9th time to Paris and I’ve only stayed in hotels twice. I like having an apartment for a washer, the ability to have breakfast and tea/coffee as early as we want and having extra space because I’m an early riser and hubby sleeps longer than I do. I have seldom cooked dinners. We prefer apartments most of the time unless it’s only for a few days.

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11450 posts

A wonderful trip report, Pam. It sounds like you had a fantastic time. And you fave such great details to help other visitors.

As for your reflections about drawing in one of your recent responses :

My drawings are not skilled but honestly when I look at them what I remember is standing for 45 minutes in front of Alienor d'Aquitaine's vase and looking at every inch of it and thinking about her hands turning it over and over. That memory is priceless.

That is a really beautiful thought -- what a way to think of it !! I love that.

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895 posts

Thanks both @Pam and @Andrea for sharing your lodging experiences. I tend to gravitated towards hotels, but willing to try out an apartment. Great tips from both of you!

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1846 posts

Pam, I completely agree, this is a priceless memory of Paris. And taking the time to slow down and really SEE something in any museum is amazing! I actually prefer the MusƩe Marmottan Monet over the Orangerie for that reason, I can sit and look at a Monet undisturbed for quite some time.

My drawings are not skilled but honestly when I look at them what I
remember is standing for 45 minutes in front of Alienor d'Aquitaine's
vase and looking at every inch of it and thinking about her hands
turning it over and over. That memory is priceless.

Posted by
12265 posts

after getting sucked into the Mardee TB vortex,

Sticks and stones will break my bones, but buying bags will save me! šŸ˜‚ šŸ˜‚ šŸ˜‚

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3041 posts

I love your Paris trip reports, Pam. They're always so joyful.

And all the bag talk reminds me that I was irritated by mine during my most recent trip and have decided to upgrade toiletry bags and get a new suitcase for checking. And my packing cubes have seen better days.

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5434 posts

Hi Pam,

I’m so glad I found your trip report, thanks for sharing your wonderful adventures in your favorite city!
Wow! I think it’s great that you took art classes in Paris!

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1846 posts

Yes, indeed Pam, your trip report did sound joyful!

A quote from Rick from "Adventures in the Louvre" - "Entire books have been written about how long it takes to do the best of the Louvre, RS said Zoom in on the biggies & try to finish with enough energy to browse!" hahaha.

I would add, plan where you're going to eat outside of their crowded cafes, wear very good walking shoes & only plan on 2 hours!

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17204 posts

@Andrea - I know you all enjoyed your apartment location on your last trip!

@Kim - I did a Road Scholar tour that started in Bordeaux a few years ago. The guide gave a lecture on Alienor d'Aquitaine and mentioned this vase is the only object historians KNOW she handled. That just really caught my imagination and made me look at things differently. Wow, she held the vase in her hands then went on to birth 3 kings of England. Not that those are connected but...well, you know what I mean, lol!!

@Christine - There is great advice on this forum!

@Sandancisco - I meant to get to the Marmottan this time but ran out of days, hahaha!

@Mardee - HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

@Mary! - well, you know where to do your research and who to call on for input, hahaha!

@Priscilla - I had so much fun with the art classes. Low key, no expectations, just painting in Paris to suit myself. Harder to do when you are traveling with others.

@Sandancisco - "I would add, plan where you're going to eat outside of their crowded cafes, wear very good walking shoes & only plan on 2 hours!". Yes - to trying NOT to eat at any of the crowded cafes. This time when I was looking for the 5 Continents gallery I discovered there is a small cafe near the Porte du Lions entrance. I stopped there for a coffee, water and maybe an almond croissant for energy, hahaha!! It was actually pretty busy and not set up to flow correctly but they didn't ask me!

AND I would add.....buy the Amis du Louvre pass if it's within your budget so you can come in and out at will and just concentrate on a couple of floors in one wing at a time. Almost guaranteed to have no crowds - 2nd floors of either the Richelieu or Sully wings.

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3629 posts

Pam, your trip reports are always wonderful to read. Informative and inspiring.

How in the world did you find Delta Comfort Plus for under $800 RT?!! I’ve been bragging that I booked Delta Comfort Extra for just under $1700 RT Phx/Vce in September. I bow to your expertise and good luck.

Planning ahead to next year. My neighbor said she’s be interested for a first trip to Europe. London and Paris areas may be a good. start. Have to make it horsey for both of us. May gives us Windsor Horse Show. And then there’s Chantilly and Saumar.

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17204 posts

@Horsewoofie - "How in the world did you find Delta Comfort Plus for under $800 RT?!!". There was absolutely NO skill involved. I was not going to buy that day because I knew that billing cycle contained Christmas so did not want to spend the money for a plane ticket at that time, lol. I was shocked, shocked, shocked. Looked about 10 times and decided I needed to go ahead and book before it disappeared. I have NEVER gotten a fare like that before. AND yes, I would agree $1700 is a great price, lol! BTW, the Delta One fare on the same day was over $6000.

There was also no skill required to buy up to Delta One for the other segments. It did take persistence and I seriously looked at the Delta website every single day. I also have a tab up for the Yellowstone National Park lodging website and have looked at that website every single day looking for a particular level of cabin for August but no joy there!

Your horsey plans sound excellent!

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1846 posts

Pam, I don't think I've had that kind of 'Delta luck' with United in years, since the pandemic. i want to learn more about this technique but suspect it's a Delta thing!

AND I would add.....buy the Amis du Louvre pass if it's within your
budget so you can come in and out at will and just concentrate on a
couple of floors in one wing at a time.

Thanks! The Amis du Louvre pass is already in my notes, we'd try to visit a few times within a year, but frankly compared to the other costs of travel, it's very reasonable. And BTW, when I looked closer at my Paris notes, it's about 75% ideas from you!

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17204 posts

@Sandancisco: "I don't think I've had that kind of 'Delta luck' with United in years, since the pandemic. i want to learn more about this technique but suspect it's a Delta thing!". Well....a purchased upgrade doesn't work on Delta if you buy the basic Main Cabin ticket. With an Economy Comfort ticket purchase when you go in to look at your flight on the Delta App or online you are often offered a chance to upgrade and can usually choose whether you want to pay with miles or money. During the months when I was looking daily sometimes there was no upgrade offers, sometimes it was just Premium Select (the level between Comfort and Delta One) and sometimes both Delta One or Premium Select. Sometimes all the Delta One seats were "X'd" out, sometimes you could see availability. With Delta it really just takes persistence. I never expect to get that kind of fare again!

BTW the Delta sky miles are so devalued it is almost never worth it to use them for an upgrade. I'll use them on the leg from Spokane to Seattle but even then it's usually more miles than I think they should charge for a 45 minute trip, lol.

I have absolutely NO reason to think this but I also kind of think that if you've purchased a Delta One upgrade with money, if there is some kind of disruption/delay with the flight that they are quick to take care of the Delta One passengers by rebooking, sometimes in the same seat on another flight. I had this happen several years ago when I left LHR...flight was cancelled from the time I left the hotel in Windsor to the time I got to the airport to get my boarding pass. They'd rescheduled me on a flight thru a different Delta hub (SLC instead of Seattle) but had the same Delta One seat assignment.

BTW, I didn't mention this but this RT flight had absolutely NO time changes AT ALL after I purchased it. Not even 5 minutes adjustment on departure or arrival. I was so shocked!