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Trip Report - Palermo before starting a Rick Steves’ Sicily tour - Day 1

I booked 3 nights in Palermo for before we start our RS tour on the 2nd.

Palermo is amazing! It’s beautiful, dilapidated, grand, and exotic. I absolutely love it.

I am staying at the Grand Hotel Et Des Palmes. It’s about a mile from the RS tour hotel. It’s a gorgeous old palazzo - built as a 19th century residence for a family. Breakfast is great - not the over-the-top buffet, but something a little more elegant feeling - quality baked goods, yogurt with fresh honey, tons of fruit, and an egg station.

There are sites that I don’t have time for but these are the ones I picked:
1) Teatro Massimo - did the 40 minute guided tour. Very basic tour but all I wanted was to get into the building and so I was happy.
2) Palazzo Butera - A Baroque palace from early 18th century. It’s a showstopper - go if you find yourself in Palermo. You enter into Mediterranean-feeling courtyards, do a few rooms of modern art, and then you wind your way up and into the palace. There’s beautiful architecture and some really unusual furniture from a wide range of eras, but there’s also a huge green-and-white tiled terrace, with views all around Palermo. Further up the grand staircases, you reach a room that lets you “hover” above the roof - gaining unique knowledge about the ceiling and room design of the palazzo. And finally - up even more stairs - you exit onto a small metal terrace…way, way up, with more incredible 360 degree views of Palermo.
3) No Mafia Memorial - Free to enter, with a moderate amount of English signage. Lots of photo documentation of crime scenes. I think I would have gotten more out of it if I had a better understanding of the history before I visited or took a guided tour.
4) Palermo Cathedral - The cathedral itself is spectacular from the outside. The inside was way more modern than I was expecting. We wanted to climb to the roof but rain prevented it. Instead, we went over to the connected Diocesan Museum and that was a nice surprise. There’s some art installations, but there are rooms full of tiles, some palatial rooms, and a look-out view onto the Palermo Cathedral that is alone worth the entrance cost.

Next up will be the Norman Palace, some churches, and the Villino Florio - an art nouveau house from about 1900.

Posted by
4802 posts

When we visited Palermo back in 2021 we were also surprised at how much we loved it. Gritty but clean, not too crowded, great food, many things to do.

Posted by
8992 posts

I’m happy you’re enjoying Palermo! I flew to Palermo for five days in 2024 as part of a month in Italy and enjoyed it immensely. Your description was perfect! Yes, it’s all of those attributes.

Posted by
7661 posts

I didn't have a lot of interest in Palermo. It seemed like a "must do". We absolutely loved it, We'd go back to Sicily just for Palermo

Posted by
6083 posts

Thanks for your report. Palermo is on my very short list and working its way up!

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473 posts

We were there in 2017 as part of our 4th trip to Italy. Loved it, although most of the folks we traveled with did not. Italy on steroids! So much to see! I would definitely go back!

Posted by
1960 posts

Valerie, your post shows how very rich Palermo is —- I was there for 5 nights in March and, except that you and both looked at the outside of Palermo cathedral, we did entirely different things! Now I want to go back to Palermo even more than I did —- it’s just full of wonders.

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2857 posts

Thanks, all! I’ve seen Palermo get mixed responses on the RS site, so I was curious about how I’d feel. But I am completely smitten - I could use another day or two because there are so many palazzo museums we don’t have time for. There’s a free afternoon on the RS tour - but for us it’s a Monday and almost all of the museums are closed. Palazzo Bonocore is open on Mondays, so I’ll get to see that one too.

Another note about Palermo - the restaurant prices are so reasonable!!

We ate at a lovely place, right on Via Maqueda pedestrian street, at an outdoor table, with a view of Quattro Canti. We had 3 main dishes, 3 appetizers, 3 drinks - and the total bill was under 90 Euros.

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1960 posts

I figure that every place is "mixed," including our own homes --- and so is everything and everybody mixed.

Your lovely detailed trip report helps people choose what they might like to see for themselves, unlike the "Two nights are plenty for Venice" type of brief statements.

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10 posts

You really captured what makes Palermo so special. That mix of beauty and grit is exactly what gives it so much character. Palazzo Butera sounds incredible, especially those rooftop views. And you’re so right about the food prices it’s one of those rare places where you can eat amazingly well without feeling ripped off. Definitely making me want to go back to Sicily.

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11053 posts

You guys are really sending me in the direction of Palermo for my January birthday trip this year . . .I have bookmarked the thread! Thanks for sharing your thoughts Valerie, and then to everyone who has subsequently contributed !

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2857 posts

Palermo would be a great winter destination! It’s quite warm even now - low 70s today and very comfortable.

And there’s just so much to do here!