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Trip Report: Northern Germany

A friend and I traveled to Northern Germany last September, primarily for a friend's wedding, but we spent the week prior to the wedding touring around small towns. Here is a report on what we liked and didn't like.

(1) Lubeck: We flew in to Hamburg and took the train straight to Lubeck. We took the local train to the main train station in Hamburg, and it was a little difficult because some work was being done on that line, and we wound up having to get off the local train and take a bus to another stop. My German is pretty rusty, and we had a hard time understanding the announcements on the train. It wasn't that big a deal, but when we came back to Hamburg at the end of the trip, we checked this online to make sure everything was fine.

The train to Lubeck was great--quick, clean, on time, etc. We stayed in the Park Hotel am Lindenplatz in Lubeck. This is between the train/bus station and the historic center, so it is very convenient. It was fine but not great. The rooms are quite large for Europe, and the bathroom was nice. The beds were just OK, and we had some trouble with the internet at first.

Lubeck is very pretty, but there isn't that much to see or do. One full day is plenty. We saw the Holstentor (did not go in the museum), went in the Marienkirche, went up the tower in St. Peter's (very nice view), went in the Heiligen-Geist Hospital (interesting but very small), and to the Europaisches Hansemuseum, which is new and very nicely done. We enjoyed the Cafe Niederegger and Cafe Maret for breakfast/cakes/snack time, and Schlumacher's and Brauberger for dinner. We also ate lunch at the old seafarers' union (I can't remember the name), and I would highly recommend that--it's a neat interior, and the food was good. The one thing I wanted to do that we didn't get to is Travemunde. It was raining most of the day, so it didn't seem like a good day for th beach.

(2) Schwerin/Wismar: We saw these as a day trip from Lubeck. We bought the regional day pass ahead of time on DB.com, and it was a great deal for 2 people and allowed us the flexibility to decide to go to Wismar at the last minute. In Schwerin, the castle is pretty much the only thing to do. It was a nice walk from the train station (you can walk by a pretty pond and cute shopping/restaurant area). There is a small amount to see inside the castle--not tons of stuff--and then the gardens and grounds. We had cake at the Orangery, and I would recommend that for a break. It's pretty, and the cake was good. We had lunch at Restaurant Lukas and enjoyed our meal. Because there wasn't that much to do in Schwerin, we decided to take the train back through Wismar for a quick stop. We didn't have a great plan or much of a map (or much time), so we kind of wandered around and saw the main square, which had a few cool buildings; the ruins of a church destroyed in WWII; and the harbor. I wouldn't have minded spending a little more time there (with better info), but I think you can easily see the best of both towns in one day.

Posted by
2252 posts

Thank you, Carly, for a concise and interesting trip report! I always like reading about other people's travels and as I am planning a trip to Germany in the future, I will keep this in a reference folder!

Posted by
8 posts

(3) Luneburg/Luneburger Heath: We rented a car in Lubeck and drove to Bremen via Luneburg and the Luneburger Heath. We needed a car anyway to get to the wedding spot later in the week, and the car allowed us to make some stops on the way that we couldn't have realistically done via train or bus. We were on the Autobahn some of the time but tried to take the smaller highways for a more scenic route, and the driving was really fine. The roads were in good repair, German drivers seem to follow the rules (no crazy weaving in and out or cutting people off), and the signs were easy to follow. The only thing to watch out for is the speed limit in towns, which isn't always clear and which is monitored by speed cameras. Luneburg was very quaint and pretty. We wandered around and looked in St. Michaeliskirche and another church. We probably could have spent another hour or so there but needed to get back on the road. We took a route through the heath, which we hoped would still be in bloom in September. There were a few spots of bloom, but unfortunately, it was mostly gone. It was still a pretty drive through small towns and forest. Thanks to some help from travel forums, we learned that we could see some megaliths at Die Oldendorfer Totenstatt, which is a cool little spot in the heath. We had it all to ourselves, and we got a close-up look at the heath. From there, we drove on to Bremen.

(4) Bremen: Bremen is a sizeable town, and while we saw a few neat things, I'm not sure I would recommend it unless it is just on your way somewhere else. We only got to see the outside of the Rathaus--it was unexpectedly closed when we were there--and between our hotel (the Courtyard Marriott) and the historical area, we had to pass through the area around the train station with lots of vagrants, etc. We enjoyed walking around and doing a little shopping in the Schnoorviertel. The Bottcherstrasse was small and a little disappointing. We toured St. Petrikirche and went into the Bleikeller (which is next door, not in the same building) to see the mummies, which were weird and creepy but interesting. The closing of the Rathaus really disrupted our plan for the day, and we didn't have a great back-up plan. We did have a fun dinner at a brewery in the Bottcherstrasse area. The Courtyard Marriott was maybe not in the best location--on the other side of the train station from the good stuff--but was a nice, clean hotel with huge rooms and a great breakfast buffet.

(5) Bremerhaven/Wadden See: On our last day before the wedding, we drove to Bremerhaven and the Wadden See. We went to the Emigration Museum and the Klimahaus and enjoyed both of them. I have never seen anything quite like the Klimahaus--it is very interactive and was fun for adults, not just kids. We ate lunch at the cafe in the Emigration Museum, and it was good. We had a little extra time before driving to the wedding site and decided to try to see the Wadden See, even though we hadn't been able to figure out quite where to go. We basically drove toward Cuxhaven and then followed signs and our navigation system to the beach, and luckily wound up in just the right spot. There was plenty of parking, and we just walked up the sidewalk, took off our shoes, and walked around in the mud. It was close to high tide, so we couldn't walk out far, but we got the experience (and learned that there are foot showers back over the dunes near the little shops). It was a nice day, and there were tons of (mostly elderly) Germans out enjoying the sunshine.

Posted by
12040 posts

The only thing to watch out for is the speed limit in towns, which isn't always clear and which is monitored by speed cameras

Good thing to point out. A lot of drivers from North America may not realize that the yellow boards that announce the name of a town also imply that urban speed limits (50 km/hr) are now in effect. There may not otherwise be a speed limit sign to indicate the change.

Congrats on submitting what is probably the first trip report on this website describing Lüneburger Heide. I wanted to check out this unique natural landscape when I lived in Germany, but never made it.

Posted by
570 posts

Thanks for doing the trip report, Carly! I wish I had gone to the Klimahaus when I was in Bremerhaven a couple years ago. I did go to the Emigration Museum and liked it a lot. And, I put my bag into a locker at the train station in Lueneburg, rented a bike and rode to Egestorf in the Lueneburger Heide to spend a couple nights. Biked all over. Awesome! Anyway, glad to hear about your trip because I'm looking forward to being in Luebeck and Wismar in June.

Posted by
14979 posts

Hi,

Thanks for the very interesting report, interesting to read about your observations in Lüneburg, Schwerin, and Cuxhaven, which interest me in particular. That town Lüneburg I got to on my first full day in Germany as a day from Lübeck in July 1971, have been back numerous times over the years, a great place to spend some down time walking through that town, seeing the East Prussian history museum, the churches, especially the Johanniskirche. Schwerin sounds very doable from the train station. I'll be dong just that this June.

Posted by
2297 posts

Great trip report! I definitely will make some time to visit Lüneburger Heide some time soon.

Just a question: you arrived in Hamburg but did not visit the city itself? Have you been there before? Personally, I think it's an amazing city and I look forward to going back again and again.