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Trip Report: Northern France, Normandy, and St Malo in August

Hey all,

Sitting on my balcony in Stuttgart, drinking Brittany cider out of a mug, just returned (tonight!) from what was for us the biggest road trip we've taken in France. I'm going to write a more detailed report later in this thread, once I've sorted through pictures, but here's a condensed version with some pertinent take-aways (opinionated as always) that might help other travelers.

Reims: We drove from Stuttgart, Germany to Reims the first day, arriving late afternoon. In general, I found Reims very underwhelming. The inner city is nice enough, but nothing special for a French city, and the amount of tacky tourist restaurants and difficulty finding a decent bar was a bit shocking. We did have a great dinner at a highly reviewed seafood restaurant on the main pedestrian street (details like names coming in the more comprehensive trip report) but we both got variations of steak tartare and spent the first 2-3 days of our trip with food poisoning as a result. The Cathedral is historically significant, obviously, and has great beauty, but as someone who nerds out on gothic churches I was a little underwhelmed. It wouldn't crack my top 10 of gothic churches in Europe. The champagne experiences in Reims were too expensive/crappy to bother with. Even on menus it was just as pricey as it is anywhere, and we didn't end up having any, actually.

Takeaway: We will visit the region again (my husband is a bit of a military history nerd and wants to see WWI sites) but I think we'll stay in one of the champagne villages known for production of the bubbly, which certainly has to be more charming than Reims itself.

Amiens: We stopped lunch and to see the cathedral. Although the city is now not exactly a metropolis, we enjoyed our brief visit there. The church is lovely, and we had a functional but friendly and cheap lunch by the river, which is a lovely area with some half-timbered houses. In retrospect, we wish we'd stayed in Amiens instead of Reims, as it was more charming and would've put us that much closer to our final destination that day.

Bayeux: We stayed here for two nights, and it's worth at least that, longer as a base if you're deep-diving into the D-Day stuff. It's an excellent base, the town itself is wonderful despite the tourists, and the Cathederal is astonishing. We missed the light show (we retired early on Tuesday, only to discover it doesn't run on Wednesday when we were feeling better.

Tip: If you're doing the D-Day museum or the art museum, buy your combo ticket for the Tapestry museum at the less popular museum(s). It enables you to skip the ticket purchasing line at the Tapestry museum, which saved us at least 30 minutes in line.

D-Day Sites: Despite my husband being a military history nerd, WWII isn't really his jam, and while I find the conditions surrounding the war fascinating, actual military tactics don't do that much for me. As such, we decided to do a fairly truncated version of D-Day sites. The museum in Bayeux gave us a detailed understanding of how the operation worked. The day after that, we drove to the German artillery site, part of the "Atlanik wall" which was very cool to see. We then visited the American Cemetery, spending about an hour at their nice visitor center (I really felt like I was back in the states, there's just a difference between American museums and European ones), and then after lunch at a little roadside restaurant actually stuck our toes in the sand at Omaha beach.

This may be heresy on this forum, but that was enough for us. We got a good overview of the fight, paid our respects to our countrymen, and stood on the site where many young men died hoping to liberate a country and win a war. It was very moving, especially the American cemetery, but we did not have enough of a detailed interest in the campaign to warrant the cost of a private tour or to spend more than a half-day on those sites.

Posted by
3050 posts

Takeaway: By all means if you have the interest or have a family member who fought in Normandy, take more time or a tour of the sites, but for us, we had plenty of the D-Day experience with our relatively short visit.

St. Malo: We holed up in a beautiful French villa in the St. Servan neighborhood of St Malo for 3 nights. This was the best choice of our entire trip. Our lodging, Villa St Raefael, was a splurge for us but well worth it. St Servan is a village unto itself, about a 25 minute walk to the edge of Intra Muros, but with it's own shopping street (and a lively market on the weekend which we got to enjoy twice), it's own small beaches, a beautiful harbor completely with untouristy waterfront restaurants. I wouldn't ever consider staying in Intra Muros after enjoying this neighborhood. We ate at the Solidor harbor twice, and split the rest of our time between the beach and "walking on water" to the Grand and Petit Be forts off of Intra Muros. A great mix of relaxation, history, and sun. No, we never made it to Dinard or Dinan, and we were perfectly happy with that choice. We did spend an afternoon in Cancale eating oysters and watching the harvest of the oyster beds as the tide receeded, and on our last day we had a picnic above the Point in Cancale.

Rouen: Our biggest mistake in this trip was probably our one-night stays. I had suggested to my husband that we spend an extra night in St Malo and just do the 10 hour drive back in one day, but he balked, so we spent our last night in Rouen. It was a really charming city but we didn't arrive until 19:00, and had a bit of a parking fiasco so we scrambled to get dinner and make it to the light show at the Cathederal, which we finally did, and it was a highlight of our trip. I don't think of myself as someone who is easily impressed by fireworks and whatnot, but the light show is well worth it. We'd thought we'd just caught the tail end of it, but because it was high season, it immediately repeated itself starting the second show around 23:00. It was really stunning. I wish we'd had more time to explore Rouen, but we had a long drive ahead of us today, so we left around noon after a blitzkreig self-guided walking tour this morning.

Overall takeaway:
We were warned about August crowds and we ourselves worried quite a bit, but surprisingly, it wasn't much of an issue. This is partially because we're not the typical Americans visiting the area: we'd already seen Mont St Michelle, so we skipped it entirely. The touristy part of Intra Muros was uncomfortably packed, but we were only in that area for a short while, and the less touristy edges of Intra Muros, plus the Mole beach, were pleasantly empty much of the time. We only encountered one small traffic jam on the outskirts of St Malo, and nowhere else. Cancale and the Pt Grouin area near it were packed on Saturday and Sunday, but we still found decent parking with a bit of patience and a willingness to walk a bit. August may not be the ideal time to visit, but it wasn't the packed hellscape I'd feared, even on the weekend, and even with good weather (we lucked out and had mostly sunny weather 20-25 when we were in St Malo).

Our biggest mistakes were one-night stops. Even driving, the time it takes you to get into town, check into a hotel, get your bearings, etc after a long day of driving is just frustrating. I felt like we spent a lot of our 8 days in the car, and since our trip was 2200 KM, that's not surprising. But we only had 8 days and we wanted to go to this part of France, so that was what we had to deal with. I would have rather had longer driving days and more time in places than breaking it up. I'm still curious as to whether it's more cost effective for us to drive our own car versus taking the TGV and renting one. Tolls and gas are expensive, so who knows? I might do the math on this to figure it out if we get to go in the future.

Posted by
12313 posts

If you had to rewrite your itinerary, based on your interests and what you know now, what would it look like?

Posted by
14976 posts

Good report , interesting too..

"...a bit of a military history nerd and wants to see WW 1 sites...." Bravo! You had the chance to see two additional WW 1 sites going to Reims from Paris, east of Paris is the town of Meaux, where the big WW1 museum is located. Then en route from Paris to Reims is the town of Chateau-Thierry and its connection to the American role in 1918. The Anglo-French military cemeterie is there from WW1 and also the US 3rd Inf Div monument. Going to Amiens from Paris Nord as a day trip and its WW1 connection with Amiens on the Somme was a thrill for me the first time in 1989. With that car you could have gone (ca.30mins) to Peronne, where the other big WW1 museum is located. True, I like Amiens more than Reims but then visiting Reims was only once whereas I've been back to Amiens a few times.

Posted by
14976 posts

On the husband's Napoleonic interest: since you were driving east from Paris to Reims, outside the small town of Montmirail en route is the site of the "route of victories" ie, Montmirail, Champaubert and Vauchamps, and there is a monument dedicated to Napoleon. I saw it in 1984.