Please sign in to post.

Trip Report--Normandy, France 4 nights

My husband and I spent 4 full days in Normandy arriving by overnight Brittany Ferry from Portsmouth, England to Ouistreham. We hit the ground running, taking the bus to Caen from the ferry to the train station where we rented a car from Europcars across the street. By 9 am we were at the Caen Memorial Museum, hoping to pace ourselves to 2 hours as recommended in Rick's Normandy Book. We could not do that however and spent over 4 hours there--so much to see and absorb. As US Army veterans we were able to get free tickets but had to talk to the right person at the desk. From the museum we headed to Arromanches and did the Arromanches 360 as well as Rick's self guided tour of the area. We then hoped to go to the Juno Beach Center but we had run out of time, we did however visit the Canadian Cemetery and the Juno Beach area.

We spent the 4 nights in Bayeaux at B & B Hotel de Sainte Croix--an excellent choice with large quiet rooms, great breakfast and wonderful proprietress.

We spent the next two days touring with Overlord Battlefield Tours--1st day focusing on Longue sur Meres, Omaha and Utah Beach and Pointe du Hoc. Yannick, our guide, was simply fantastic. His breadth of knowledge and engaging personality brought the battles to life. Our 2nd day focused on the 101st Airborne areas (Band of Brothers) and our guide, Charles, was also excellent. We would have missed a lot on our first visit to Normandy had we not taken these tours. In the early evenings we visited the British Cemetery in Bayeux, the Reporters Memorial and the Cathedral.

Our final full day in Normandy started at Mont St. Michel and as recommended we arrived early (9:30am) and beat the rush. We used Rick's self-guided tour which was excellent. In the afternoon we stopped at the German cemetery near Mt St Michel and then returned to Utah Beach and the very excellent Utah Beach Museum--highly recommended by Rick --we especially appreciated the exhibit of "then and now" Photos from the battlefield superimposed on photos of today blending beautifully. Once again, Rick suggests 45 min is all you need for this museum and we spent 2 hours! We hoped to get back in time for the Bayeux Tapestry, but sadly would not have had enough time so will save that for another trip; we did however visit the 2nd German Cemetery on the way back.

Lessons Learned: we were definitely prepared for our visit, having read several books and rewatching Longest Day and Saving Private Ryan. Even with extensive preparation and some level of tactical expertise, I think a guided battlefield tour is a must for first time visitors to Normandy. Our days were full--breakfast at 7:30 and touring til 7:00-7:30pm with very few breaks. Make sure to plan for more time in museums if you have a need to read and absorb as much as possible. In retrospect, I wish I had planned for 5 full days instead of 4. Rick's Normandy Snapshot is excellent and well worth having a copy with you.

Posted by
2510 posts

Thanks for your report. I went to Normandy while on the RS Paris and Heart of France tour and I will never forget the emotional time we spent there. Everyone was so moved. Seeing Pont du Hoc, Utah Beach, the American cemetery and the German cemetery as well as the town of Saint-Mer-Eglise - wow! What a time back then our parents and grandparents lived through! I marvel at the audacity of the invasion. I re-watched The Longest Day a few months ago and I could point out the places we had been. We owe so much to the Greatest Generation for saving Western civilization. Even now the German people see the Allied invasion as liberating the German people from Nazism.
Thanks again for sharing.

Posted by
241 posts

Tina: A quick point of clarification. You mentioned the free tickets to Caen Memorial Museum for veterans. Is this only for WWII vets or any former military member? I am a retired Army officer and would certainly like to take advantage of the free ticket. Also, does the free ticket extend to the Arromanches 360 portion as well?

Posted by
6526 posts

We also loved the "Then and Now" exhibit. It did take me a while to figure out what the photos were trying to convey, but then I happily went back to the beginning and started over.

Posted by
6 posts

Darrel, we are USArmy retired vets, not WWII vets. When we went to the desk there was a woman who immediately was going to provide us the free tickets, my husband had left his IDin the car. After he went back to get it we had a man at the ticket desk. He either did not understand or was not going to give us the free tickets, but the woman told him yes, so we received two free combined tickets for the museum and Arromanches 360 for a savings of 22 euros each! Well worth being persistent. Don’t know if we got lucky or it works every time. Rick Steves book mentions free for vets so that is why I asked.

Posted by
6713 posts

Very helpful and interesting report. Those who want to "do" Normandy as a day trip from Paris should read it (but won't). I can relate to your experience at the Caen Memorial -- not the vet part but the duration part. We spent a good half day there, almost entirely in the WWII section. Did you also get to the museum at Bayeux? If so, I'd be interested in your comparison, a topic that sometimes arises here.

It seems like you must have spent a night close to Mont-St-Michel but not on the island itself. If you liked (or disliked) your accommodation maybe you could share what it was, so others can benefit from your experience. Or did you drive over from Bayeux so early you got there ahead of the crowds?

I regret not having taken a D-Day tour when we went to the beaches -- we had a good experience but a good tour would have been much better. Too bad you missed the tapestry, one of the highlights of our trip (not just for Normandy but for Europe). Hopefully you'll get to see it next time -- though you saw so much in Normandy that you may choose other regions for the future.

It would also help others if you describe more about your ferry crossing. Did you start in London that day, or Portsmouth? How long did the whole thing take? What was the ferry like? How might this route from England to Normandy compare with Eurostar to Paris and Paris to Caen by train?

As you can see, your report sparked this reader's interest and curiosity. Thanks so much!

Posted by
6 posts

Responding to Dick: "Did you also get to the museum at Bayeux?" No, simply could not do everything.

Ref Mont St Michel --"Or did you drive over from Bayeux so early you got there ahead of the crowds?" Yes, we had rented a car in Caen so we would have maximum flexibility. Even though it parked for two days while we did the Overlord tours, it was definitely worth it for our 1st and 4th days. We left Bayeaux a little before 8am to get to Mont St. Michele by 9:30am, were able to catch the free shuttle from the parking lot without waiting. When we left at around 12:30 there was a huge line in the parking lot waiting for the shuttle. My husband and I are early risers, no sleeping in for us, we want to get where we are going as early as possible.

"Too bad you missed the tapestry, one of the highlights of our trip (not just for Normandy but for Europe). Hopefully you'll get to see it next time -- though you saw so much in Normandy that you may choose other regions for the future." Yes, I was really disappointed, but our focus on this trip was D-Day and following. We definitely want to go back to Normandy because we loved the whole area and would like to explore it farther, as I said, kicking myself for not having at least 5 days if not a whole week.

"It would also help others if you describe more about your ferry crossing. Did you start in London that day, or Portsmouth? How long did the whole thing take? What was the ferry like? How might this route from England to Normandy compare with Eurostar to Paris and Paris to Caen by train?" This trip was actually a personal add-on after a Western Med cruise that ended in Southampton England. After disembarking in Southampton we had hired a transfer to Portsmouth (West Quay Cars ( [www.westquaycars.com ) Britanny Ferry Terminal where we stored our luggage (4 euros a bag) for the day and then walked to the Historic Portsmouth Dockyards where we saw many of the historic vessels etc. We had booked a cabin on the ferry knowing we needed to be rested and ready to go when we hit the ground. The ferry itself is huge and lots of folks milling around the bars etc with a party atmosphere. The ferry crossing was uneventful very calm seas unlike 75 years ago, the cabin adequate for our needs, nothing fancy. We departed at 10:15pm English time and arrived at 6:45 am French time and caught the 7:17am bus directly to the Caen train station. I can't make a comparison to the Eurostar and then train to Caen because I never considered it since we were already close to Portsmouth. I would highly recommend a visit to the Portsmouth Historic Dockyards--again more to see than time to see it in a day. The Mary Rose ship exhibit is extraordinary.

Posted by
6713 posts

Thanks for all that. Of course the ferry made lots of sense from Southampton, especially with the bonus of a day in Portsmouth. And overnight, so it's as if it took no time at all -- wake up in France! A brilliant plan.

I want to see Portsmouth, have never made it there. We cruised into Southampton last spring and flew right to Amsterdam. Southampton has flights to a lot of post-cruise destinations. (And I guess it would work the same for pre-cruise travel, flying into Southampton.)

Posted by
3439 posts

Thanks for posting! I have always wanted to visit Portsmouth, and take a ferry to Normandy. I agree that guided battlefield tours are a must for the first time visitor to Normandy.

Thanks also for your service.

Posted by
14976 posts

Hi,

Thanks for an absolutely interesting and detailed report .

You did "visit the 2nd German Cemetery...." You're referring to Orglandes and La Cambre? From Bayeux across the from the train station used to be a Gare Routiere, from which buses took off.

One of them bus #70 went out to La Cambre. All this was before the train station area was torn up for street repairs, contouring , etc. I have not been back since this construction.

Portsmouth has a D-Day museum too. I didn't see it but saw the big WW1 memorial...interesting to be sure.

Posted by
681 posts

Thanks for the posting. You were very thoughtful in your report. I enjoyed reading it.

Posted by
4044 posts

Great trip report. A friend and I spent 5 nights in Normandy in October 2016. It was such a rewarding experience. I agree with much that you write, including...

  • Regardless of how much prep work one does for a trip to Normandy (reading books, watching films, etc), it is hard to really understand what you are seeing without a guide who knows the area
  • Two hours at the Caen museum markedly short changes that museum
Posted by
241 posts

Thanks for the clarification. I will take advantage of the "freebies" this fall.