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Trip Report: My "Beach" Vacation in PARIS

I have recently returned from a 12 night trip to Paris. I traveled solo. The purpose of the trip was to have some alone time and to spend that time in one of my favorite cities. I always over plan, it is part of the fun for me. I used some of the ideas that I received from one of my previous threads in which I asked for ideas that I might not think of. I stuck to my itinerary for the first few days, but then I mostly threw it to the wind. The weather was excellent and I just wanted to be outside. So, it was much more like a "beach vacation" than any of my previous trips to Europe where I am on the go and seeing lots of sites. Here are my activities and impressions.

HOTEL: French Theory, Rue Cujas 5th arr.
On my two previous trips to Paris I stayed in the 7th, the 1st, and the 5th. To find this hotel, I used Google maps and searched for hotels in my price range, acceptable locations, and the style of hotel I like. Once I decided on this hotel, I booked it through Delta Stays as it will help me achieve status for next year. The price was the same.
I really liked the location. It is close to Jardin du Luxembourg, the Pantheon and the Odeon. It is close to RER B station and several different bus stops. There were plenty of close by restaurants and groceries. There was not a nearby artisanal boulangerie. The hotel had an attached cafe and it was frequently busy, but I did not eat/drink there.
I had a single room with a twin bed. The style of the room was modern with concrete floor a white duvet and black and white furnishings/bathroom. I had plenty of space. My only complaint was that there was a stool for the small desk, so no chair with a back in the room. The bathroom was typical Paris small. The sink was narrow. The shower was a bit tight, but fine. The shower nozzle was a bar instead of a "head" and I didn't prefer that. I had 2 nice windows that viewed the interior of the building, so no great view, but plenty of light. I wasn't expecting the small fridge, so that was a great bonus. Air conditioning worked well. Staff was courteous, but unlike other hotels where I have stayed for multiple days, I didn't really get to know any staff. I would stay here again.

PACKING: My Osprey backpack weighed 15 pounds and my Tom Bihn medium size cafe bag weighed 2 pounds. This is the least amount of stuff I have taken on a trip. Including day of travel, I took 3 slacks, 4 tops, one silk scarf, 2 night shirts, 4 sets of under garments and 2 pair of shoes. I took 2 pair of Hoka Bondi 8 shoes one size 8.5 and one size 9. For tech, I had my Pixel 9 phone, a Pixel 2 watch and air buds with the appropriate chargers. Thankfully, I also had my Navigo Decouverte card from 2022. I took minimal toiletries. I purchased 2 paperback books at the airport. That's it!

TRANSPORTATION: Because my hotel was so close to the Luxembourg RER B station, I decided to take the train from CDG into town. I purchased the ticket on my IDF app on my phone (note, you can't have t+ tickets and the RER ticket on the same device). I didn't have any trouble finding the RER station at the airport, I just followed the signs. I used t+ tickets, both paper and on my phone (more about that later) for 5 of the days and then a weekly pass for the rest. I used the metro, but most of my transport was by bus. This is dictated by my hotel location. I found the buses easy to use and it was nice to see the city rolling by. Because I had t+ tickets on my phone app at the end of the trip, I bought my RER B ticket back to CDG at the vending machine at the station. This was a bit of an adventure because I was nervous about getting to the airport on time, I arrived at the Luxembourg station for the 5:21 am train before 5 am. The gates were closed and I had to stand in the rain at the bottom of the stairs for about 7 minutes waiting for the station to open. It was also slightly tricky finding out how to get into the airport from the RER station, (continued)

Posted by
1601 posts

(continued) I finally found the sign to the airport. The 5:21 train was the right timing for my 9:30 am flight for those of us that prefer to wait over fear of being late.

TECH AND OTHER PROBLEMS
So, I purchased a smart watch thinking I was certainly missing out by not having one and that it would be good for traveling. I was hoping to use it for navigating around the city and for transportation tickets. This way, I wouldn't have my phone out as much and be less of a theft target. Well.... 1. The IDF app would not open on my watch. I was getting alerts on my phone that there were active issues with Samsung watches and that it was being worked on. So, I couldn't use my watch for buses or metro. 2. I live in a semi-rural location, but maybe I should have gone into the city and practiced using Google Maps walking navigation prior to my trip. I just got frustrated and stopped trying it. The biggest issue is that the keyboard is way too small to type a location and it didn't like me saying French names. So that was a no go.
The next problem I had was that my phone stopped connecting to the cellular network. This happened when I was trying to transfer from the metro to a tram on the way to Porte de Vanves. I used my phone at the metro, but when I got on the tram I got the negative buzz sound. I did not know what was happening. I did stay on the tram, so got that short trip without paying. Thank goodness that I didn't get controlled. (I actually did get controlled later that day). I went to the flea market, but I was a bit anxious the whole morning. I now know how much I rely on the fact that my phone is working to feel safe and secure. I was planning on eating lunch in the area, but I couldn't relax. So now the problem of how to get back to the 5th. My phone wasn't working, so I couldn't look up the routes. I didn't want to retrace my steps because I knew I couldn't purchase a ticket on the tram. I went to the 2 nearby bus stops and was able to find a bus line back to the 5th. I had seen other people buying tickets from the bus drivers, however this bus driver would not sell me a ticket. I don't know why. He did direct me to a nearby metro station. So I purchased 2 t+ tickets at the metro station and took the next bus. On this bus trip, the controllers boarded and I thankfully had my cancelled ticket.
Verizon has a new ultimate plan or some such that I am now on due to getting my new Pixel 9 phone (for no cost) and the resell value I am getting for my Pixel 6 phone makes my overall bill a bit less than it was. So, I now have international cellular service for no extra cost. I don't know if this is related to the problems I was having. I was able to chat with an agent over wifi and she "reset my network". I also changed my settings for me to choose the roaming network instead of the phone automatically choosing one. So I had about 2 days of trouble, but after that I was able to reconnect to cellular service easily. Again, this was very unsettling for me.
Because of the phone trouble, I decided to put a weekly pass on the Navigo Decouverte cards I had with me. I was able to use my phone and the IDF app to load the pass onto the cards. The pass worked great.....except when I was at St Ouen, it wasn't working. This was another unsettling situation. The station was jammed with people, kids were jumping the turnstiles and my pass wasn't working. There was a mile long line for the desk. There were 4 security people watching this happen. I approached one of the

?security? guys (dressed in navy blue shirt and pants with a toolbelt). He tried my pass, didn't work and he just walked me around through a gate. Of note, my pass then worked at other stations after that.

These were all of the troubles I had and they did not diminish my trip and I think I handled the problems well enough.

to be continued

Posted by
1601 posts

SITES/ACTIVITIES
LOUVRE: This was my 3rd trip to the Louvre. I planned a quick visit to see a few things I hadn't seen before: the Napoleon apartments and Mona. I booked 9 am tickets and was in line by 8:30. I was easily able to get my unimpeded view of the Mona Lisa and there wasn't another breathing person in the Napoleon apartments, it was great. I still ended up spending over 3 hours in the museum.

JAQUEMART- ANDRE:
I really enjoyed this small museum. It was an extra bonus that they had an exhibit with pieces from the Borghese Gallery in Rome. I had seen the pieces in Rome and it was a real treat to see them again in Paris.

VIRTUAL REALITY EXPERIENCE NOTRE DAME:
This has been recommended here on the forum. I highly recommend this. It was fabulous. You are led through the medieval streets of Paris to the doors of Notre Dame, through the cathedral, up to the roof, all the while getting a history lesson. I did have a minor freak out when you stepped onto a wooden platform that was raised up to the roof. It seemed so real and I have an aversion to heights. You are instructed to raise your hand if you have a problem and I did that as I was afraid I was going to end up on the ground. The helper simply took my goggles off of me (why didn't I think of that?). I wasn't able to keep my goggles on during walking the scaffolding planks or during walking on the roof. During those short breaks, it was fun to watch the other participants in the room walking around room in their goggles. Anyways, if you are in Paris, definitely do this!!

PARIS BY MOUTH CHEESE EXPLOSION TOUR:
This was great. Our guide took us through Laurent Dubois' fromagerie and then we sampled and learned about the cheeses in a wine shop in one of the medieval buildings in the area. I recommend this.

POMPIDOU
I went to the special exhibit on surrealism. I did not enjoy this. It was very chaotic getting into the museum and I found the whole activity confusing. In my opinion, they let too many people into the exhibit and it was very claustrophobic. Add that to the fact that I didn't really like the art and the whole experience wasn't great. It is a very cool building and there are great views from the top. It just isn't for me.

More later.....

Posted by
10621 posts

What time of day did you go to the Surrealism exhibit at the Pompidou? I’m not going, but my husband will go one evening. I’m hoping evening hours in the exhibit will be less crowded.

Posted by
1601 posts

Elizabeth,
My photo stamp says that I was at the exhibition on a Monday at 14:22. Maybe the Monday was the problem, with other museums being closed that day? That is why I was there.

Posted by
10186 posts

They have the VR experience in English too.

And as vandrabrud says - and as JanetTravels has said many times -- it is absolutely fabulous, so fun. The artistry they are able to create with the technology is absolutely mind-blowingm

Posted by
2766 posts

This is great for me to read at this moment, thanks for posting.

What is the link for the Notre Dame goggle exhibit? Do you need to reserve ahead?

I feel vindicated in going through the hoops necessary to change my 9am Sunday morning departure from CDG after hearing your news about getting on the RER B at 5am -- I assume it was still dark out?
The 9am departure is a direct flight but I am even surer that I will be ok with a connection in FRA on the way back here on a flight that doesn't leave CDG until 2pm -- I can take my time in the morning enjoying a Sunday brunch and stroll rather than getting up and packed in the dark.

Is there any hassle involved in getting a new Navigo card and adding tickets to it instead of using the phone app?

A tip for google maps navigation on your phone is to save points of interest in a dedicated list beforehand so that you don't have to type or talk robotese on the go.

Tell us about the dining too svp --

Posted by
996 posts

Wonderful trip report thanks so much! I've just ordered a pair of Hoka Bondi 8 shoes to try. The idea of a relaxing beach holiday in Paris made me laugh, yes to relaxing on vacation and going at your own pace! PS, Your packing list was great,

Posted by
10186 posts

Here's the link for the virtual reality visit of Notre Dame.

https://www.eternellenotredame.com/frequently-asked-questions/

There have been several threads on the Forum where this experience has been mentioned and detailed.

Is there any hassle involved in getting a new Navigo card and adding tickets to it instead of using the phone app?

No. If it were me, I would go with the card. I would find it less hassle.

Posted by
1601 posts

Thank you for your comments.
Yes it was JanetTravels that got me interested in the VR experience, I am very grateful for that. They have different languages for the tour as Kim mentioned.

Avirosemail: I would get your new Navigo Decouverte card from an agent at a window in the Metro. All windows were manned during my recent visit. When I first got my card I brought a 25 x 30 mm photo with me to attach to the card. There are photo booths in a lot of the stations for this purpose as well.

I wasn't sure if anyone would want a list of my dining experiences, but since you asked, here they are!

DINING
I had 2 pre-planned food activities. One restaurant reservation and the cheese tour mentioned above. Unlike Japan where just about every food experience is likely to be positive, I have had some bad meals in Paris. So, every time someone gives a review or a recommendation for a Paris eatery, I mark it in my Paris Google Maps. That way, wherever I am when I am hungry, there will likely be one of those marked places close by. I usually try to plan some good meals when I travel, but this time I was a lot more relaxed about it and instead of a "fabulous" meal, I was happy if I had some nutritious and enjoyable food. I am also not a drinker, but I sampled some champagnes and some rose wines. I mostly had my large meal at lunch and then had a light dinner.

Le Recamier 4 Rue Juliette Recamier 75007
This restaurant was recommended on this forum for souffles. I made a lunch reservation. I sat inside. I had a glass of Champagne, a cheese souffle with sour cherries and a lemon souffle with lemon sorbet and raspberry sauce. The dishes were beautifully presented. The first few bites of the cheese souffle were delicious, but then I started getting tired of it. I didn't finish it. The dessert souffle was enjoyable from the first to the last bite. (Of note, I am a sugar monster, YMMV) Expensive, yummy.

Restaurant La Mosquee de Paris 39 Rue Geoffroy-Saint Hilaire 75005
I had eaten here before and I enjoyed sharing my meal with a tiger cat. Absolutely beautiful space to enjoy a delicious meal in. I love tile work. I had chicken tajine and tea. I definitely recommend this.

SAS Boulangerie Moderne Rabineau 16 Rue des Fosses Saint Jacques 75005
This is the boulangerie from Emily in Paris. It was the closest boulangerie to my hotel. I went only once. I got a pistachio snail shaped pastry and a sandwich that I had for dinner in my hotel. The pastry was very good.

Cafe Mollien Inside the Louvre
I had a quiche and a pot of tea. It was fine.

La Creme Palais Royal This was a cafe alongside the Jardin Palais Royal. I couldn't find it on Google Maps. I had a glass of Champagne and it came with popcorn. A nice place to rest.

Sapporo 37 Rue Sainte Anne 75001
I had a pork cutlet with curry and rice. This was very good and I recommend this place. Casual dining, great for lunch or a quick dinner.

aki mochi mochi 16 Rue Sainte Anne 75001
This is a Japanese bakery. I bought an egg salad sandwich and 2 mochis, one chocolate and one pear. I had this for dinner in my room. The sandwich was fine and the mochi were very good. I had one for dessert and the other one for breakfast.

Le Prince Racine 22 Rue Monsieur Le Prince 75006
I had lunch here. Cod and salad and a glass of rose' wine. The dining space is very nice, the food was good and the service was good.

Pret A Manger Right around the corner from my hotel. I purchased a sandwich and a lemon pudding for dinner. The sandwich wasn't good.

Le Nelie This is the tea house at Jaquemart-Andre Museum
I had veal (in honor of the Italian exhibit) an Aperol Spritz, a strawberry tart and a pot of tea. This was very yummy, but quite expensive, $64. Most of my other lunches were about $25-30 (including alcohol).

to be continued

Posted by
2766 posts

I also lean towards sweet and away from sour.

I make sure I know how to say i do not like woody or smoky wines, I like fruity wines, in whatever the local language is also.

Posted by
4805 posts

Waiting for the “more later”…. :) :) Sounds like a fabulous trip so far!

(And I had a similar experience to yours at St Ouen when I arrived a year ago - at Gare de l’Est, I think.) Card not working, security took me through/around, and it worked everywhere else.)

I like your approach to meals. :) For me, they don’t all serve the same purpose. Ha!

Posted by
1601 posts

Dining, continued

La Terasse 2 Place de l'Ecole Militaire 75007
I had a group dinner here during RS Paris city tour and enjoyed it. I stopped here for dinner the day I had the veal for lunch. I ordered a cheese plate and a glass of wine. I think this is a safe place to get a nice meal. There is a lot of foot traffic nearby, so sitting outside and people watching is nice. While I was eating I did witness a taxi hit a pedestrian. Luckily, the car wasn't going very fast and the person seemed to be OK. Police were not called. I think the pedestrian was crossing on a green light. It was upsetting to see. During my cheese tour we saw a guy on a scooter fall over in the middle of the road and almost get run over by the car behind him. Geez.

Le Choupinet 58 Blvd Saint-Michel 75006
This cafe is across the street from an entrance to Jardin du Luxembourg and I walked by it many many times. It has the giant teddy bears in some of the chairs, cheesy. I ate here for dinner on a Monday when a lot of places in the neighborhood were closed. I had a burger and fries. The food was perfectly fine. There is a nice view of a fountain and the garden.

Laurent DuboisI bought about $25 worth of cheese here. After my cheese class/tour I felt comfortable walking into a fromagerie and ordering. I had the cheese over the next few days for dinner, snacks, breakfast.

L'as du Fallafel 34 Rue des Rosiers 75004
I know this is a tick-tock favorite and my plan was to go down the street to King Fallafel, but they have the best mint lemonade here that I have had in my life. I don't know why people line up outside and get sandwiches when you can go inside and sit down. I had hummus, fallafel balls and a chicken cutlet. It was a large portion so I took some hummus and fallafel back to the room. I had 2 glasses of lemonade. It is seriously yummy.

Damyel 46 Rue des Rosiers 75004
Just down the street I stopped and picked up a few macarons. This is one of my favorite sweets shops.

Aleph 63 Rue des Abessess
This is a Syrian fusion patisserie. I like their lemon pastries that look like a bird's nest.

Carette This is another tick tock cafe at place de Vosges and there is one at Trocadero. I had breakfast here. Croissant, orange juice, toast and chocolate chaud. I like the hot chocolate at Angelina's better.

The Crossing 1st floor Galleries Layfayette Le Gourmet
This was a nice surprise. My plan was to pick up some pre-made dishes on the ground floor and have a picnic in my room. However, there were so many people in lines at the counters. I went up one flight and found this place. It is Indian food. I had biryani and a mango lassi. It was delicious! It is like eating at the mall, so not the best setting, but I loved the food. It was a late lunch/early dinner. I did pick up a chocolate tarte to eat later.

Le Dauphin 20 Place Dauphin 75001
I had breakfast here. A crepe with strawberry jam, orange juice and hot tea. Absolutely fine Pretty setting.

Bread and Roses 62 Rue Madame 75006
This is a very nice bakery/restaurant. It is a bit expensive, but everything is very yummy. I came here twice. The first time I had a Mediterranean quiche, a chocolate tarte and a pot of tea. The second time I got a lemon tarte and an iced tea with fruit. I recommend this place if you are nearby and are looking for lunch or treats. It was recommended on this forum.

Bistrot des Rosiers Outside the St Ouen Flea Market
I had a veal cutlet, potato salad, green salad and Orangina. Large portions. Fast service.

Hachi Bento 4 Rue Tollier 75005
This was very close to my hotel. I got the karaage bento box. My Japanese is better than my French and I enjoyed speaking a bit with the waiter. I would eat here again.

Continued

Posted by
1601 posts

TSA
To take a break from dining (12 days of eating twice a day is a lot of places), I was reading the Global Entry thread regarding the confiscated orange....
I travel with a Hunger Hiker, collapsible hiking stick. My stick has been on 6 trips to 11 countries and 3 continents. Technically, it isn't allowed. It doesn't really have a sharp tip on it like a real hiking pole. I use a rubber tip on the end. This was the third time that it got some attention, though. The first time, the person looking at your passport prior to the security check told me it wasn't allowed. I just looked at her like I didn't understand the language she was speaking and carried on through security. The second time a TSA worker was talking to me about it and his supervisor came up and said, "It is fine, let it go through". This trip, the TSA x-ray guy pulled it out and the the next guy told me, "This has to be checked". I remarked that I didn't have any checked bags and if he wasn't going to let it through he would just have to throw it away. He was very polite, but he wasn't going to budge. I politely asked for a supervisor. He said "Sure!". The supervisor told me to expect it to be taken away at another airport, but she let me go through. All the three incidents occurred at CLE. Nobody looked at it twice at any other airport. I will continue to carry it with me until it finally gets taken away.

Posted by
2766 posts

Don't keep us in suspense about which kinds of cheese you bought! Give us some educamacation.

Also, have you been to any of the Japanese art galleries or museums there? Any recommendations?

Posted by
1601 posts

I thought I had finished this trip report, but I see that I sort of left it hanging.

I have a list somewhere of the cheeses that we ate, I will try to find it.

The only thing I didn't report on was the flea markets I attended. I loved seeing all of the old things, shopping and walking in less touristy neighborhoods. If anyone has questions about the markets, let me know. I went to markets on 6 different days.
I purchased: 3 antique plates from 1880 to 1920, porcelain nobs to decorate drawers, a vintage silver ring, a WWI medal, a bronze leopard from Benin, and a beurrier l'eau. I had plenty of room to carry everything in my carry on luggage, but it was HEAVY!