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Trip report Madrid, Andalucía, Barcelona—October 2019

I found the comments and answers on this site to be invaluable in helping to plan our trip so I hope to return the favor for someone else who can hopefully gain something useful from my feedback. We were in Spain from October 12-28 flying into Madrid, exploring some of Andalucia, and finally spending our last several days before flying home from Barcelona. I’ll attempt to keep my notes relatively brief and mostly reference things that we learned or would do differently, plus comment on any exceptional restaurants, tours, or accommodations that we encountered.

We were mostly using Madrid as our port of arrival and home base for two separate day trips, and I personally wasn’t expecting to like it as much as I did. We don't have much interest in art galleries, but found the city to have plenty of charm, character, and interest aside from that. Our Airbnb was across the street from San Miguel market and it was really fun to pop by there and try little bites of different foods, which we did on several evenings. We did Rick’s walking path which was a good way to get oriented. Our first day trip was to Toledo and we loved it there. As many say, we easily could have spent an overnight or even longer in Toledo, but it is worth getting there for a day if nothing else. Of note, the line for the cathedral was so long that we weren’t able to visit with our remaining time for the day. This wasn’t something previously on my radar as being a tough site to get into so we hadn’t rushed over to do it first thing, and this ended up being a mistake. It was a busy holiday weekend and we hadn’t meandered our way over to it until the afternoon, so these were both factors, I’m sure. We enjoyed the cheesy tourist train to take you around the area and stop for some good photos. We otherwise just liked wandering all over. Segovia was also fantastic. I felt like this town was better seen in a day with not much more that I’d feel the need to return for, but the aqueduct shouldn’t be missed. Also, the Alcazar was incredible and one of my surprise favorite sites that we visited. Since it is very uncrowded compared to other similar sites, you can really get a good view of the interior architecture, decor, and ceilings. The cliff that it hangs over is stunning and we took many great photos. After our two day trip days and the better part of arrival day hanging out in Madrid, we took the fast train to Córdoba for an overnight.

We absolutely loved Córdoba and were so happy to have more than just a day here. But again, like Toledo, I would certainly come to see it and get into the Mezquita during a day trip if that was the most time available, but my opinion is that I would try really hard to pull time from somewhere to allow for an overnight in this town. It is incredibly charming with the small winding lanes and is beautiful and relaxed by night. We stayed at the hotel Patios del Orfebre which was an absolute gem. If you can find this place for a good deal, book it. We spent several hours wandering through various patios and speaking to the kind residents who opened up their spaces for us to enjoy. Even in October, the flowers were still beautiful. Of note, near the patios is a restaurant, La Posada del Caballo Andaluz, where we enjoyed a fantastic lunch with media raciones of the sautéed artichokes, fried aubergine with honey, and migas. I tried my first tinto de verano and never looked back. We went to the Mezquita first in the late afternoon and also during the free hour the following morning. Late afternoon was a great time to go and we had the space without any tour groups. The tour groups also (I believe) aren’t allowed in during the free morning hour. We were glad to have seen it in the afternoon since there are a few key areas which are roped off during the free time. We also wouldn’t have felt that we’d adequately seen everything we wanted to in that quick hour.

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No advance tickets were needed, we walked straight to the ticket booth with no lines. We absolutely loved the Mezquita and I would personally rank this right up with the Alhambra. After our overnight and the majority of another day in Córdoba, we caught a train down to Sevilla.

We had 3 full days and nights in Sevilla and found that this was a good amount of time to get a sense of the city. We had an Airbnb in the Santa Cruz neighborhood close to the cathedral and the location and apartment were perfect. This is another lovely city and so easy to walk everywhere. It is another place we would enjoy returning to and settling into for some more time, even though we felt that we were able to mostly check off our must see list in 3 days. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to rule out any place where we wouldn’t want to return for more time, so this doesn’t help much with any future trips! We thoroughly enjoyed Concepcion’s walking tour of the city (RS recommendation) on our first morning and this helped orient us some and give us some great info. Prior tickets are pretty much essential for the Alcazar or you can count on wasting several hours in line trying to get in the door. The line for those with no ticket wraps around two sides of the building, but if you already have tickets, all you do is walk along the left side of the long line between those people and the building, and you will eventually come to the separate lanes for groups, ticket holders, and those without tickets. The Alcazar was amazing, as expected, but we found it to be frustratingly crowded and somewhat chaotic in their (dis)organization of how to flow from one area to the next with tiny signs that you could hardly spot indicating which audioguide number corresponds to which room. It’s a must see location, of course, but it just felt much more poorly organized as compared to our later visit through Granada’s Alhambra. We aren’t even entirely sure that we made it to every area when all was said and done, but enjoyed what we saw. The Cathedral is easy to get into with the dual ticket mentioned in RS book and you can enter with that ticket through the side that says groups, with no waiting, so long as there is no tour group already entering there at the moment. No need to pre book this one. We did a great Withlocals tour one evening for tapas in the Triana neighborhood and this was a lot of fun. The areas we went to were definitely local spots that we wouldn’t have stumbled upon on our own, and our guide picked several local dishes and drinks that he wanted us to try. A couple of the spots were so good that we would later return to them on our own. We also really enjoyed the time speaking with our local guide about his daily life, the area, politics, etc. In other words, actually getting to have a real conversation with another human being about their daily life, and him with us. The bridge to Triana is lovely when lit up at night and we enjoyed walking all around Sevilla in the late evening hours. In general, this is one of the things that is so fun about Spain to me: being able to walk around late at night through many different areas and feel perfectly safe and certainly never alone! We would normally walk 45 mins-1 hour after dinner though different neighborhoods on the hunt for gelato or churros, getting photos of that beautiful Cathedral that we toured during the day now lit up by night, encountering street musicians and stopping to listen for a bit, getting lost down winding side streets, etc. We did this most nights in every single city. Even as a natural early bird I like to get a bit more on Spain’s late schedule and experience the areas by night, too.

From Sevilla we took a late day Damas bus to Ronda which got us in at 8pm, and spent two full days in Ronda before an early morning train to Granada. We really enjoyed this town and having a bit of a slower pace to break up our busier cities. We had one day to poke around Ronda and found plenty to do.

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The Arab baths were worth seeing and there are great hikes and photo ops in Ronda at every turn. We attended the Paco Seco guitar performance and it was fantastic! We highly recommend this. Also recommend El Lechuguita for 0.90€ tapas. Be adventurous and try something that sounds strange! Also be proactive in making your way to the bar where you get your scorecard type order sheet which you mark off and hand to the bartender whenever you can grab him. I don’t think there is ever a moment of the day when this place isn’t packed with people—for good reason. We managed to fit it in twice. Our other day we booked a tour of the hilltop towns with Entrelenguas, a RS mention. These guys were great and extremely knowledgeable about all things regarding their community, sustainable agriculture and tourism, and history of the region. We really enjoyed this outing and it was a good way to get into those small towns without a rental car, plus get some education and snacks along the way.

From Ronda we took an early Renfe train to Granada and arrived into town by 11. We stayed at Hotel los Tilos and found it to be a good affordable option that was clean, quiet, and basic, but fully met our needs. Our priority for Granada was to see the Alhambra and then fit in whatever else we could in the remaining time. We had two nights and a little under two full days. Our first impression was that Granada is huge! Much more so than what we had envisioned. And much more spread out. Our up to then great weather luck finally caught up to us here and we had afternoons and evenings of torrential rain and bitterly cold weather. This is where we pulled out every layer to wear all at once with the down jackets plus rain coats and it got us through. We were lucky to get both mornings free of rain before it would start at about 2PM. We had an Albaicin walking and tapas lunch tour booked for the first day with Granada Tapas Tours, a RS mention. Our guide was Ramon and he was fantastic with his city insights and pairings that he selected for us with tapas and beverages. First taste of vermouth for me and I liked it! It was fun to be led through the Albaicin and learn some history and then break up the walking with some food and drinks. Again, we enjoyed our conversations with Ramon about life in Granada, his family and upbringing, local issues, etc. in addition to the actual tour. We are forever grateful for the introduction to carrillada (pork cheeks), at La Botilleria, where we would later return to eat them all over again. They also had the best house olives there that we tasted in all of Spain and we would have taken a suitcase of them home if we could have. We had early morning tickets the following day for the Alhambra. It was worth it to us to just catch a quick and cheap Uber up the hill to the justice gate with our online tickets. The Alhambra lives up to the hype. It is phenomenal. We found the audioguide to be really good and the organization and flow through the sites to be excellent. It never even felt very crowded, which absolutely shocked us. The gardens were still lovely and we can’t even imagine how they look in the spring. We spent probably 4+ hours on site here and we tend to move fairly fast through places. I recommend packing something to snack on in between the different locations so that you don’t have to leave and come back. It was nice to just sit on a bench outdoors and give your legs a break and refuel for a bit. Later that afternoon we also made it to the lovely Cathedral. Overall, we enjoyed Granada a lot but also felt that of all locations, this was the one where we barely scratched the surface. This was due to not allotting much time there to begin with but also due to the weather. We were able to piece together most of Rick’s city walk over the course of two evenings, but had to intermittently dash indoors for cover somewhere warm and dry (with wine) in the process when the rain got to be too much.

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I suppose that’s not the worst way to experience a city! We departed Granada having fully enjoyed what we saw but also feeling that we will very much need a return visit to get beyond our quick overview.

Finally, we took a quick and easy Vueling flight to Barcelona to spend the last days of our vacation. This was the one city in Spain we had already visited before, very briefly, on a previous trip. Ironically, that was in October two years ago as the independence referendum had just occurred. Our return this time was just after the sentencing of those involved with the referendum. So we have only ever seen Barcelona with protests and demonstrations occurring! It in no way has dampened our love and enthusiasm for this city and we were so happy to have this return visit to experience it a bit more in depth. We had nearly five full days in Barcelona and were able to see most of everything that we had hoped to in the time available. We made it to Sagrada Familia (again), Casa Batlló, La Pedrera, Casa Vicens, Palau de la Música Catalana, Palau Guell, Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, Park Guell, and MUHBA, amongst the major sites. Our takeaways... we had previously toured Sagrada Familia with an audioguide and this time selected the one hour guided tour. Our opinion was that the audioguide is excellent and we didn’t gain anything more by taking the guided tour. This time we saw the museum on site which we had completely missed noticing before. It was EXCELLENT. I would have bought tickets just to this alone if it was a separate entity. We got so much out of this portion of the day and could have spent a couple of hours just inside the museum. Actually, everything that the tour guide said or pointed out was either from the museum or was covered with the audioguide. Don’t miss this museum. Also, we are big fans of architecture and modernisme, hence the unusual number of Gaudí and modernisme sites visited. I’m sure this wouldn’t be for everyone...maybe anyone...but we still never got sick of it all! Additionally, we took the modernisme walking tour from the T1 and enjoyed it. Funny enough, aside from Sagrada Familia, our favorite two Gaudís that we visited were the lesser seen Casa Vicens and Palau Guell. They are very different from one another but both are fascinating. I’m sure it helps that they are also both fairly empty so we really felt that we could see and experience everything fully and at our own pace without wall to wall people. Both sites we walked right up and got tickets to immediately. We enjoyed both the hospital and Palau de la Musica Catalana for some non-Gaudí time. We attended a music concert in addition to the tour, but something to note, some of the events are held in the smaller Petit Palau which had totally missed our attention when booking the tickets. As it ended up there were absolutely no regrets because the concert (Ensemble O Vos Omnes) was fabulous, and whatever was offered in the main hall was not of interest to us, but something to watch for if planning to attend a performance. Watching the castellers was very much a highlight of our time, as was the MUHBA museum which was far more extensive than we had ever expected. We went there on the free Sunday afternoon and highly recommend a visit here even when it isn’t free. We did another great Withlocals tour, Barcelona Bites and Flavors, starting in Santa Caterina market and stopping for tapas and treats throughout areas in the gothic quarter and Raval neighborhood. We also did a Runnerbean free tour of the Gothic Quarter on our first afternoon and it was honestly outstanding. I’ve read a lot of negative comments on the quality of free tours, and possibly we lucked out with a really great guide (and historian), but this was amongst the best guided tour that we took in any city.

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Now for the one and only true let down of our entire trip: Park Guell. This was the one thing over 17 days that we wouldn’t do again and would advise a friend to skip entirely. For starters, 80-90% of the monumental zone is currently under rehabilitation so virtually everything you are paying to see is behind scaffolding or tarps, aside from some stone structures. The bench that you see in photos has one stretch of about 10 feet that is not being covered so there is an endless line of people trying to get their token photo sitting on it. Same goes with any other structure that isn’t covered. We could never even get close enough to see the famed lizard from photos with the lines of people swarming it. It was like Disneyland but worse—not just crowds and lines but hundreds of people trying to get their perfect selfie. There wasn’t really anything of Gaudí there that couldn’t be seen elsewhere, in my opinion, and you can’t get close enough to see anything, anyway. No hard feelings. We didn’t lose that much money or time on it and one loser over probably 50+ sites and activities is pretty darn good odds. I know that there are people who really enjoyed the place, and perhaps the experience is vastly different when there is no construction. But for us this was the one disappointment of our entire trip and the one that had we known, we would have skipped entirely.

In summary, we had a fantastic time and enjoyed every town that we visited and would do all of them over again. We had a shockingly flawless trip with no issues at all through all of the trains, planes, buses, and hotel changes. The struggle would be in deciding what to skip the next time around when all locations would be fun to see again for more time. We love Spain and the people we have encountered so much. With so many places in the world still to be seen, something about this beautiful country and its people calls me back time and again. I hope that there is some nugget of something useful to others in here and that your own trip is equally wonderful!

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Enjoyed your report, as we have only been to Barcelona. I'm sorry you had a bad experience at Park Guell. Everything was clear in May, and we enjoyed an early morning visit there.

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Thanks so much for your detailed and candid report. So sorry to hear that Parc Güell was a let down. We were there several years ago and although it is a popular site, we enjoyed it very much. We are huge fans of everything Gaudi and couldn't get enough of his work. It's disappointing when areas are under construction.

The second time we were in Rome we went back to the Trevi Fountain and it was blocked off as well. Glad we have had other opportunities since.

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Thank you for posting your trip report. I am planning a similar trip to Spain for 2020 using only public transportation. How was the Damas bus ride from Sevilla to Ronda?

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Christine- no issues with Damas at all. The buses are like a tour coach...cushioned seats, good leg room, clean, WiFi. I don’t believe there was a bathroom on ours, though, just FYI. The bus station was totally decent, too. Not like what you’d think of a greyhound bus experience in the US.

Carlos-that park looks great! Thanks for sharing. It will go on the “next time” list.

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Good to know that Damas bus is a reliable option for getting from Sevilla to Ronda. I've been debating about adding Ronda to my itinerary.