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Trip Report: LIVE from Italia

My daughter and I are traveling in Italy, so I thought I would do a couple of reports while things are fresh on my mind. Many of you have been so helpful to me in my planning, so maybe my thoughts and accounts will help someone else. I hope so!

We started by flying into Rome to travel immediately to Florence by train. Because of this forum, we knew about the 11:08 am train that went directly to Florence. We arrived at 9:25am, and everything went smooth as silk. We had time to spare to make the direct train.

We ate at 4 Leoni across the Arno, which was good. However, La Giostra was excellent! It was recommended that I order the osso buco, which I did and it was fabulous! Our meal at this restaurant was one for the books. I highly recommend it.

We did a day trip to Cinque Terre with a tour company. It was a 13 hour day including vans, boats and trains, but I would do it again. It was a bucket list item for me, and we had beautiful weather. People talk about the crowds. There were many people there, but they honestly did not detract from my experience.

Next day was a cooking class which was SO MUCH FUN! We walked to the market as a group where we sampled bread and cheeses. Then we drove a short distance to a farmhouse just a few minutes from Florence. We made bruschetta, roasted pork and potatoes, pasta (each person made their own serving!), and tiramisu. The chef spoke no English, but she was fun. Of course, there was also lots of wine. The food was great, and the whole experience was really enjoyable. I'm not sure if I can put links here, but the company was Walkabout Florence.

Several people gave me advice about leather shopping, so we made our way to the School of Leather. It is directly behind Santa Croce in a monastery. The sales clerk was absolutely lovely, and he and I tried to speak in Italian. He was a gem. I picked a gorgeous winter white, thigh length jacket with beautiful trim at the collar and the cuffs. This coat is significantly more expensive than you will find in some of the stalls in the market, but it is just spectacular. Even if you don't buy anything, visiting the school is a worthwhile stop.

We also had timed tickets to the Uffizi Gallery. We got there at 8:15am and walked right in. We got to see everything we wanted without pushing our way through 100 people. This plan is SMART for art lovers. Get up early, and the Uffizi is a whole different experience. We also had timed tickets for the Accademia at 3pm. This was also easy. Planning works!

Then we were off to Perugia for the Umbria Jazz Festival. The first night we got here, we had tickets to George Benson. He was great, performing in the open air arena. It was supposed to rain, but we were spared. The intense heat has subsided here by the way. It is warm when sunny, but the nights are rather pleasant. I am finding that fewer people speak English here. I know a little Italian, but today I had to act out brushing my teeth and rinsing to get some mouthwash :)

Yesterday we went to Assisi. There is a bus that goes, but we got lazy and took a taxi for 50 euros. We toured the basilica, and the highlight was a spa day at Nun Relais Spa and Museum. The spa is fancy and luxurious, and I made appointments through email before we left home, They have a series of hot and cold rooms, and a hot pool that is full of surprises. There are silver buttons which start different jets, but one is a water cannon, so watch out! They reserved us a nice lunch, and then we had massages. There was a lot of nakedness, but when in Rome...

So today we finally have a down day. We are resting and listening to jazz. Tomorrow is our last day in Perugia, then we're off to Verona and finishing up in Rome. To be continued...

Posted by
584 posts

Thanks so much for posting! I've already made notes for next year when I'm in Florence. Thanks!

Posted by
2405 posts

hey hey ladyvet
sounds like fun and you guys enjoying.
don’t know how long you’re staying in Verona, you can check
getyourguide.com
eatwith.com (have a dinner in someone’s house)
visitacity.com (food tour)
bottega del tortellini, friend that lived in Vicenza, told me a shop where they make all kinds of tortellini and may have a small cafe.
maybe take the train or tour to lago de garda, take a ferry around lake to see the different villages. we went to bardolino for their annual wine festival. nice day trip and gorgeous area.
couple things in Rome if interested
oldfrascatiwinetour.com (short train ride outta Rome to countryside famous for white wine and “best porchetta” at ceralli.it
withlocals.com. (Beautiful day trip to countryside: castelli romani) summer home to Pope, lake Nemi, town well know for wild strawberries, walk the villages
italymagazine.com search lake nemi and it’s wild berry. to learn the area.
something different and a getaway from the crowds in Rome, just a thought
aloha

Posted by
681 posts

Sounds fabulous. I am jealous and wishing I did all the fun things you planned. Good job. Hope the trip continues this way!

Posted by
198 posts

Part 2:

We're not live now, but here's the rest of the story.

Our last day in Perugia, we explored the city. We found the Etruscan well and the Etruscan Arch. The jazz festival was still happening, and they had two free stages where bands played during the day. There were also smaller groups set up in corners and alleys playing their own music. We had a great dinner on two different nights. One was at Osteria I Birbi, and the other at Avverso. There we tried two different tasting menus, and that was interesting and delicious.

Then we left for Verona. We stayed at an Air BNB a few meters from the Arena. It is like the Colosseum in Rome, but they perform opera many nights a week there. We didn't see an opera, but we could hear it from our place. One night we ate at Tre Marchetti. The owner, who is very handsome by the way, sang an operatic song during dinner! One day we toured the city, including the sights famous for Romeo and Juliet. These spots were crowded and not that exciting for me, with the exception of Juliet's Tomb. It was off the beaten path and not crowded at all. They had a display of frescoes, and there was a nice garden with a wishing well. I'm really glad we found this spot.

Our other day in Verona we made a day trip to Venice. My daughter had never been, so we did it. This was my least favorite day. It was hot and humid, and the crowds were oppressive. We did escape to Murano which was better. I also love cemeteries, and there is a cemetery between Murano and Venice where Igor Stravinsky and Ezra Pound are buried. We were the only living folks out there :). Also, we got a day pass for the vaporetto, and that was useful. We bought them online before we left. I won't do Venice again in the summer. It was really the only day of the whole trip that was not pleasant.

Then we headed to Rome for a quick stop before home. We stayed at Hotel Aphrodite, which is steps from the train station. It was nice and so convenient for a quick trip. We had a good meal that night at Ristorante Mazze' and wandered through Piazza Navona. The next day we got on the Hop On Hop Off Big Bus. It stops right at the train station, and it was a nice way to see things without quite as much walking in the heat. We got off at the Colosseum, Borghese Gardens, and the Spanish Steps. In the Borghese Gardens you can rent bikes and these rickshaw things to tour the grounds. That evening, we had a private tour with a woman I met years ago in Rome. She knew I wanted to take some nice pictures, so we chased the sunset and found some neat overlooks and fountains. The next morning, we headed home.

Some thoughts:
I bought a $20 SIM card on Amazon before we left. It had 12 GB of data, which was plenty. It was so useful for maps, reservations, etc. I couldn't call the US, but I called home using WhatsApp when I had wifi. It worked well for us.
Knowing a few words of Italian really opened doors for us. Even though I'm sure I was not grammatically correct, I could see people's attitude change when I tried. It helped us meet more people and maybe learn a few things we would have otherwise missed.
I'm really glad we went to Perugia and Verona. They were not as crowded, and it felt a little more like we were residents. I want to see more of the towns outside of the "big three."
I know folks have different opinions, but I highly recommend the AirBNB experience. All three apartments we rented were comfortable, spacious, and convenient. The hosts were helpful and provided restaurant, sight seeing, and transportation info. It's such a great immersive experience, with the possibility of making a friend as well!

Thanks for reading! I can't wait to go back.
Beth

Posted by
11294 posts

Thanks for taking the time to post this report!

I also enjoyed the cemetery, and you're right, it's a great break from Venice crowds.

Posted by
44 posts

Loved reading your trip report -- sounds like a well planned, thoughtful itinerary!

Couple of questions: (a) could you go into a bit more detail about the SIM card you bought, and how that whole process works? were you able to keep your own phone number for WhatsApp? and (b) would you share the contact information for the woman with whom you did the private tour in Rome? we'll be there in October, at the tail end of a longer trip to Sicily, and I've been on the fence about booking a tour or just sticking with a couple of standard tours (Scavi@ St. Peter's and the 45-minute Colosseum tour, both already booked) and spending the rest of our time walking and visiting old favorite places.

Posted by
198 posts

Sure. The SIM card I bought on Amazon was from Three Mobile based out of the UK. It cost $20.00 and had 12GB data plus 3000 minutes and 3000 texts within Europe. When using it, I had a UK phone number (+44 country code). My iPhone asked me if I wanted to change my number when I inserted the card, and I said yes and followed the prompts. For WhatsApp, my app still worked, but I had to add a country code (+1) to my US contacts to be able to contact them. When I put my original SIM card back in, the phone prompted me to change back to my old number, and everything worked as before. I did not have to edit my contacts.

My tour guide in Rome was Micaela with About Rome-- Walking Tours with Micaela. She has a web page and a facebook page. She is smart and funny and has several options for tours. She will also take your input concerning what you would like to see. I highly recommend her.

Beth

Posted by
43 posts

I have been thinking of buying a sim card. Who is your phone carrier? I have an Iphone, but my last contact with Verizon was that I wouldn't be able to use a sim card.

Posted by
7802 posts

Thanks so much for sharing your well-written trip report! I haven’t been to Perugia, yet, so it’s nice to read about your experience.

I also find that I’m enjoying so many of the other
Italian towns beyond the crowded Big 3.

Posted by
198 posts

I also have an iPhone, and I use Verizon. I called to make sure my phone was unlocked, and they said it was. The card worked great for me.

Posted by
43 posts

One last question on the SIM card. Do you know if this SIM card will work in three different countries in the EU? I’m traveling to France, Germany and Spain.

Thank you for all your help

Posted by
198 posts

The card I bought from Three Mobile said it would work in 30 European countries. I imagine that would include the "big" ones. I am planning on buying another one when I travel to Amsterdam in the fall.

Beth