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Trip Report: Krakow

It was 4:15 am when I stepped off the elevator at Hotel Wentzl and found a totally dark lobby. I had told the desk clerk the night before that I had an early flight out the next morning and needed to leave at this time. As I dragged my roller bag toward the spot where my mind knew the desk was (but my eyes could not see), a shadow stirred on a couch near the hotel's entrance. It stood up, pulled back a curtain over the entrance, unlocked the door, and waived me through. I followed its directions and met rain as I exited the hotel onto the expansive Rynek Glowny. I heard the door close and the lock turn behind me. There was no sign of the driver who was to pick me up, but I had come to the lobby a few minutes early. I found a nearby stoop that provided some cover from the rain.

A man who had obviously been drinking walked up to me and began speaking in Polish. I couldn't find any Polish words in my head at that early hour, so I said "English?" The man cursed in a friendly manner and said he would like for me to drive him in my taxi to some location. I responded, nervously, that I was waiting for a ride myself. The man picked up on my anxiety, cursed again, smiled widely and then… hugged and kissed me on the cheek while cheerily saying, "Don't worry! Be happy!" He walked away. I thought, "Great. My phone or my wallet is gone."

I stood checking my pockets at 4:15 that early September morning because I had decided a few months earlier to take my first solo trip to Europe. A friend and I had planned to spend 3 weeks in Poland in May, but we scratched that trip for 3 weeks in Germany. I was dying to see Krakow, so I decided to do it on my own, burning the last few vacation days I had remaining. I found a good air fare and began planning, wanting to maximize my 3.5 days in Krakow.

My hotel was Hotel Wentzl, a classy Old-World hotel right on Rynek Glowny, Krakow's main square. I LOVED IT! The front desk personnel were awesome (and stood every time I entered the building, which was cool). I had a gorgeous room that was updated magnificently while preserving the character of the space, including its lovely hardwood floors and woodwork. I had windows that opened to the square. Breakfast was a little pricey but astonishingly good and served in a dining room that made me feel like I was eating in 1905 Krakow.

The drive from the airport to the hotel passed some ugly Soviet-era buildings, but once we got to the Old Town, the charm of Krakow was fully felt. I went straight to the hotel and spent some time drinking in the color, the architecture, and the life of Rynek Glowny from my hotel window before joining the fun and wandering the square. I will never forget the joy that a lap around the square brought me. Then a thought crossed my mind. "There are people who go to the beach every year or go to Disney every year and never see this? What a shame." The square became even more enchanting as darkness fell.

How did I spend the rest of my 3 days in Krakow? A full-day tour of northern Slovakia and Zakopane (including Orava Castle) with an excellent guide found on Tours by Locals, a visit to Auschwitz, and a full-day tour of Krakow's Old Town and Jewish District with another guide found on Tours by Locals.

A final highlight of the trip was the Deluxe Communist tour with Crazy Guides. I rode through Krakow in an old East German Trabant with another solo traveler from the UK and a college-age guide who was home for the summer from China, where she studies. We visited Nowa Huta, a community planned by the Soviets as a shining example of Communist life. We drank coffee at a former Communist café, watched a propaganda film in the front room of an apartment decorated in 1970's Communist glory, and ate an amazing lunch in a milk cafeteria. It was awesome! Highly, highly recommended. And it was 4 hours of fun for 42 euro.

(Continued in 1st Comment)

Posted by
4043 posts

It was a great trip! But it culminated with my heart beating fast as I rifled through my pockets checking for my wallet and my phone. Everything was there! I guess he did just want me not to worry and to be happy!

As I breathed a sigh of relief, a college kid walked by and said, "What up?" as he passed. I spontaneously replied, "Not much." I could see the light of recognition that he had found a fellow US American, and he circled back to me and asked… "Hey, do you know where a good strip club is?" I've never been in a strip club, so I'm not sure what makes one good. I knew there was a strip club down the street on the right; my guess was that it was not a good one because the lady standing outside it who tried to entice me to enter the night before was not so good looking. I smiled and said, "Sorry. I'm just visiting. I don't know." He walked away, his eyes gleaming with hope that attractive girls would soon fill them.

Finally, another young man walked up and asked me if I was the person he was supposed to take to the airport. I was! I walked with him to his car, thinking, "I've got to stop taking early morning flights." But then again… the story about that time I got kissed by a drunk Polish man on Krakow's main square at 4 in the morning is a pretty good one!

Posted by
14970 posts

Hi,

When I was in Krakow in 2001, I stayed at the Europejski just left of the Krakow main train station, also within a 5-6 min walk to lovely rynek I did not fly in Poland, only used trains and the bus once from one city to a small town.

Thanks for report...interesting.

Posted by
985 posts

Sounds like you made great use of your short time in Krakow. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us. Did I miss the trip report on Germany? Going to look....

Posted by
610 posts

Excellent trip report! Thanks for sharing. I'm spending 3 nights in Krakow this fall so this was very helpful. How did you like Orava? We are thinking of hiring a transfer to drive us from Budapest to Krakow so we can enjoy the Slovakian countryside, and stopping to visit Orava is an option that I was considering.

Posted by
4043 posts

Fred... Thanks for the comment.

Nance... Here is the trip report for Germany if you were unable to find it.

Tamara... I tried something new with the report based on your "What Makes a Good Trip Report?" post. I really liked Orava Castle. I thought it was well worth the trip. Tours are done by its own guides (no outside guides). English tours are only certain times of day. The castle seems to be well off the US travel radar; I was the only native English speaker on the English tour! Riding through the Tatra Mountains was pleasant, too.

Posted by
7054 posts

Was that Trabbie outfitted with some pollution controls? ...lol :-). What was it like riding one of those things? The Deluxe Communist tour sure sounds super kitschy (did you ever see the film Goodbye Lenin?). Believe it or not, many of those ugly housing blocks looking nothing like that inside....they can be very modern. In Warsaw, my childhood block got repainted some crazy colors (like with yellow and green stripes) so it's looking more spiffy than ever. Glad you had fun. I swear, you only get those oddball experiences when you are on a do-it-yourself trip. With a tour group, you're totally shielded from those 4am drunks and kids looking for stag parties (well, it also helps when you stay right in the center of the square too). I have weird stories like that from every trip and laugh about it now.

Another quick Q: was this visit an offshoot from Germany or somewhere else? Where did you fly into Krakow from, and how did it fit in with the rest of your itinerary? Folks are constantly saying how "out of the way" Krakow is (and oddly they don't say that about Croatia, which is no less straightforward, coming from he States) so it's good to see how it can be folded into an overall trip. A little bit of inconvenience is worthwhile though. Krakow is lovely.

Posted by
2252 posts

What fun to read this, Dave. I agree-you made excellent use of your short time in Krakow. I love your story of the "early morning kiss on the cheek"; that's one you will retell with fondness. Thanks for posting your Germany trip report (and thanks for asking where, Nance. I was about to...). I'm off to read that one now!

Posted by
4043 posts

Agnes... Judging from the gas fumes filling the Trabbie, I'm going to guess there wasn't much in the way of pollution control on it. It was a lot of fun riding in it, though. The space inside, obviously, was extremely tight, and there was not much in the way of creature comforts, but we got a lot of smiles and the occasional "thumbs up" as we drove through town. The tour was an eclectic, wonderful mix of kitsch and history. The guide referred to us as comrades and made a lot of Communist jokes, but she also spent 30-45 minutes giving us a thoughtful history of Nowa Huta as we drank coffee at the cafe. The food in the milk cafeteria was the best I had in Krakow. Goodbye Lenin... I really enjoyed that film... have seen it a couple of times.

The trip to Krakow was a free-standing trip. I found a cheap flight (Delta periodically has 24-hour air fare sales where trips to Europe are $550-$780 round trip out of my home airport (GSP) or Atlanta). I had a few days of vacation left to burn. So, I flew Greenville/Spartanburg (SC) --> Atlanta --> Amsterdam --> Krakow. Return trip was in reverse. i went back to work the next day. I'm one of the lucky people for whom jet lag is not much of a problem.

Andi... Thanks for the comment. The Germany trip report is probably a little dry compared to this one.

Posted by
985 posts

Thank you for the Germany link, Dave. I'm commenting here since the thread is closed. What a fabulous trip report. I like the details of places visited. Bad ice cream? Big frowny face on that. I recognized only a few town/city names and I like that too. You visited so many places that it would be neat to be able to have a map like RS tours do, showing the locations of your visits.

Posted by
7054 posts

Wow! I think you're the only person out there who has only made a short trip just to Krakow and back. You must have been really motivated. Good for you. I'm imagining the fumes coming from that Trabbie right now....ugh. When I was a kid, Poland was so polluted and there was so much environmental non-awareness and care (thanks to Soviet control), but I'm so relieved that the country looks better than ever (although the is still too much coal reliance and burning, especially in rural areas). I hope you go back again and check out some other cities. I know you won't regret it. It's a very affordable place to travel. Krakow is probably the most expensive place you'll ever see in Poland since it draws so many tourists.

One more thing...any impressions of Zakopane? Did you do a quick hike there at least? They have some really pretty traditional wooden houses in the Tatry region, and nice hiking.

PS. Great trip report!

Posted by
489 posts

Excellent trip report.
I feel Eastern Europe calling to us! We've only really visited the large cities in Hungary, Slovakia and Czech Rep. Last fall we did tours in Romania and Bulgaria and a brief stop in Sarajevo. I think you would like Bulgaria and Romania!

What a send off from your trip... That will remain with you forever!

Posted by
4043 posts

Nance... Glad you enjoyed the Germany trip report. It was a fun trip! You have me now looking for mapping tools to create maps of trips!

Agnes... I will definitely be back to Poland. The 3-week trip will happen -- hopefully in the next 2-3 years. I only had a little time in Zakopane. I walked with the guide through the market, visited 2-3 churches, walked through the cemetery, and paused for an afternoon sweet + coffee. Before arriving in Zakopane, we stopped on a ridge above the town, and the view was gorgeous. I want to go back to Zakopane... more for all of the nature activities around it than for the resort town itself.

tgreen... I've been to Budapest and hope to see many of the places you named in the next few years. This summer, I'm going to spend a little over a week in Estonia and Latvia.

Posted by
2774 posts

Very entertaining trip report. I would love to hear more about your tour of Auschwitz and Zakopane/Slovakia.

I adored Krakow and think it ranks with the best cities of Europe. It's got a great vibe and there's a lot to do. You make me wish I had done the Communist tour. I thought about it, but couldn't fit it in.

Posted by
172 posts

Thanks for this report. We will be in Poland (Warsaw, Kraków, Przemysl) in August, so I am taking notes on things to do and places to visit. Do you remember the name of the milk cafeteria where you ate?

Posted by
14970 posts

@ Dave....You're welcome. Good that you made it to Krakow, a very interesting and lovely city indeed to visit since it survived the war virtually intact as did Prague. It was spared being raked by artillery fire and tactical bombing. When I went there, we went from Warsaw by train.

Now, I would get to Krakow, ie revisiting, by night train from Vienna. When we left Krakow, we took the early train back to Berlin Zoo since in 2001 Berlin Hbf was not yet completed. That ride to Zoo was 9.5 hrs. The night train direct from Wien Hbf takes less time...more convenient.

Posted by
14970 posts

@ khrystia...You're going all the way to Przemysl...fantastic, bravo!

Posted by
4043 posts

Carroll--

My guide was Christopher Skutella, who owns his own tour company. He was wonderful -- mid 30's, kind, friendly, eager to share his experience growing up under the Communist regime and during post-Communist times. He is politically conservative and gave great insight into the current politics of Poland (without being obnoxious) and into the mindset of the people who support the current Polish regime. I learned of the movement to ban the phrase "Polish death camps" well before it appeared in the media recently.

Christopher picked me up at my hotel, and we then headed south to Slovakia, driving from flat land into the mountains. He offered a lot of information about the area, and I probed about his life experiences. We stopped at a gas station at the border between Poland and Slovakia. Misadventure: I dropped something important in the gross gas station toilet ( I don't remember what); I debated on whether to get it or to give it up; I decided to grab it and scrubbed my hand for a long time in the sink. The drive through northern Slovakia was beautiful, and we drove to Orava Castle. It was one of the last days of summer break for kids in the area, so the castle was somewhat busy. My guide bought tickets, and walked me to the gate of entry, where we waited for my tour group to be called. The castle is awesome -- one of those really old things just does not exist in the US, and the tour was paced very well -- definitely not the rushed Neuschwanstein tour you hear about so much in this forum. When we left the castle, we drove toward Zakopane, but the guide took me to a couple of communities that had architecture typical for the area. We stopped on a ridge above Zakopane -- the view was absolutely breath-taking. We continue on into Zakopane and did the things described above in another response. Then, we headed back to Krakow. It was my first full day in Krakow, so I took a nap on the way back. I loved the trip... it was a really nice way to incorporate some nature into my trip to Krakow.

I used Christopher for my trip to Auschwitz, too. Basically, he drove me there for the tour; helped me cut through the line to get to my scheduled tour, and drove me back. I think someone would be much better off using public transportation to get to Auschwitz and doing it on their own. Auschwitz itself is tough. The tour begins with a walk through the "Arbeit Macht Frei" gait at Auschwitz I, the camp for political prisoners that also has a number of exhibits related to the extermination of Jews that occurred at the Auschwitz-Birkenau death camp. At the end of the Auschwitz I tour, there is a brief break before the group loads up on a bus and heads to Auschwitz-Birkenau. The death camp is an incredibly somber place; there is no pretense of "Arbeit Macht Frei" here. I have read a great deal on Auschwitz and the Holocaust. After my visit there, I will never forget that those selected for death went to the right. If you go, you will walk the path that hundreds of thousands walked to their death immediately upon arrival at the camp. Remains of the crematoriums are incredibly disturbing. Like I said, it's tough, but a worthwhile thing to see.

Posted by
4043 posts

khrystia --

I do not remember the name of the milk bar. It was a very non-descript place. I don't think there was even a commercial sign for it. On the inside, it looked like a small US high school cafeteria from 1950. All I know is that it was in the Nowa Huta area.

Posted by
2774 posts

Thanks for the additional details. I also wrnt to Auschwitz and Zakopane and love to get other people’s perspectives. Would love to visit Slovakia some day.