THURSDAY, JUNE 9: ZERMATT TO CHUR
This morning rain was threatening as we hiked to the train station to catch the panoramic Glacier Express (www.glacierexpress.ch/en/) to Chur. Although we had 1st class travel passes, when we tried to make reservations over a month ago there was only one seat left in 1st class. (Normally that would have been plenty early to make reservations outside of high season.) We reserved seats in 2nd class instead and hoped there might be cancellations, but the train was packed. The main difference between 1st and 2nd class on these trains is that the seats are bigger in 1st class, so it is less crowded.
A couple who spoke German had the two window seats in our group of four seats. The husband graciously offered to switch with me so that he could sit next to his wife and I could sit next to John. We really didn’t get into any conversation with them because we wore KN95 masks for the entire 5.5-hour journey and we both last studied German over 50 years ago. Only a few other people were wearing masks, despite the crowded conditions.
“Glacier Express” is a bit of a misnomer because there are hardly any glaciers to be seen—mostly the effect of glaciers on the landscape. Nevertheless, the scenery along the route is gorgeous. In addition to the river and mountain views, there are charming Swiss villages and rolling, green, wildflower-covered hillsides dotted with cows, sheep, and goats.
The first part of the route, along the Vispa River from Zermatt to Visp, covered the same ground as the train we took to Zermatt on Tuesday. Then we followed the Rhône River to near its source at the high point of the trip, Oberalp Pass (6670 ft, 2033 m). Before climbing to the pass, we first had to pass through the Furka Base Tunnel (9.5 miles, 15.3 km). Then we stopped briefly at Andermatt while the cogwheel was engaged for the ascent. We could exit the train for a few minute and watch another train descending the slope via the switchback tunnels that we would soon be transiting. Just before the top of the pass is scenic Oberalp Lake. Once over the pass, the train descends along the Vorderrhein River from near its source. As we passed through Disentis, the cogwheel was disengaged. Between Ilanz and Reichenau, the river and the train pass through the rugged cliffs of the Vorderrhein Gorge (AKA the Swiss Grand Canyon) for about 9 miles (14.5 km). In Reichenau, the river joins the Hinterrhein to form the Rhine, which we followed to Chur.
Chur (www.chur.graubuenden.ch/en/) is the site of the oldest known settlement in Switzerland (circa 3500 BCE) and the capital of Graubünden Canton. Although it is quite a lovely little town, most people only stay here for a night to change trains. As we walked from the train station to our hotel, we crossed a wide boulevard, Grabenstrasse, which follows the route of the moat that once lay beneath the walls of the Old Town. Most of the medieval walls were demolished in the early 19th century, although a few fortifications still remain.
When we arrived at our hotel, our room was ready. Ambiente Hotel Freieck (www.freieck.ch/en/) is an elegant older (1575) facility. It is conveniently close to the train station and in the middle of the interesting Old Town. The staff is friendly and efficient, and the bathroom puts most US places of similar cost to real shame. They provided extra pillows upon request. The included breakfast was a standard good Swiss breakfast with really good cheese. It even included Prosecco! Our room has a view of the Altstadt (Old Town) and three churches with bell towers that chime on the quarter hour. Back to the ear plugs tonight!
