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Trip Report, June 2022: Central Switzerland By Car & Train—Kriens To Lauterbrunnen

FRIDAY, JUNE 3: KRIENS TO LAUTERBRUNNEN

Today was more of a mixed-weather day. We started out early and went to the Aare River Gorge (aareschlucht.ch) in Meiringen. We bought a combined ticket for the gorge and the Reichenbach Falls funicular; there is no discount with the STP. There is a 1.6 km trail of platforms suspended along the edge of the gorge, which is quite narrow in places. You can start the trail at either end, so we walked from the west to the east side and back to the west side—very dramatic scenery.

Then it was on to nearby Reichenbach Falls, the site of Sherlock Holmes’ and Professor Moriarty’s fatal struggle in 1891 as described in Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s “The Final Problem.” There is a historic funicular (www.grimselwelt.ch/bahnen/reichenbachfall-bahn/) that goes most of the way up to the top. The falls have retreated quite a distance in 130 years, so the spot where the fictional battle took place is no longer over the boiling cauldron of water described by Doyle. There is a star marking the spot on a ledge on the other side of the falls from the upper funicular station. However, as a true Holmes fan, I had to climb up to the top of the falls and down to the ledge, where there is a plaque commemorating the event. The falls are dramatic in their own right and not only worth visiting by Holmes fans.

After we took the funicular back down, we went into Meiringen, which is the town from which Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson set out on their fateful hike to the falls. There is a very nice (albeit quite small) Sherlock Holmes Museum (www.sherlockholmes.ch) there, which features a meticulously-researched recreation of the sitting room at 221b Baker Street. The museum was opened under the auspices of the Sherlock Holmes Society of London and of Sir Arthur’s daughter, Dame Jean, on the 100th anniversary of the assumed death of Holmes at Reichenbach Falls. There are various other exhibits related to Holmes and Doyle. This attraction, including the interesting audioguide, is free with the STP. The small park next to the museum features a life-sized statue of Holmes and a path with information signs explaining the plot of “The Final Problem.”

Unfortunately, while we were waiting for the museum to open, it had started to rain. We drove to two of the three sites that John had planned for this afternoon, but it was too miserable to get out and hike. We finally decided to continue on to Lauterbrunnen, where we would be staying for the next four nights. Along the way, we stopped at the Denner grocery in the Oberland Shopping Center (www.oberlandshopping.ch) in Wilderswil, where we picked up an assortment of Swiss cheeses, wines, and chocolate; cured meats and salami; and bread for a couple of al fresco dinners.

By the time we reached Lauterbrunnen (lauterbrunnen.swiss/en/), the weather was clearing. We drove to the end of the valley, marveling at all of the gorgeous waterfalls cascading down the steep valley walls, with the snow-capped mountains in the distance. Lauterbrunnen Tourism claims that the valley was JRR Tolkien’s inspiration for his fictional Rivendell. There are reputedly 72 waterfalls in the valley and include some of Switzerland's highest free-falling waterfalls, with Mürrenbach Fall ranking first and Staubbach Fall third.

We stayed four nights at the Hotel Staubbach (www.staubbach.com), which is in a fantastic location looking up the Lauterbrunnen Valley to gorgeous mountain peaks and with stunning Staubbach Fall literally next door and illuminated after dark. There is free parking in front of the hotel and in an adjacent unpaved lot. The hotel provides a Lauterbrunnen Guest Card that gives discounts at local attractions, including some that are not covered by the STP. It also helps that it has friendly and super-helpful staff who are full of ideas about what to do in the valley and how to do it. David in particular was great, but everyone we dealt with was wonderful!

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The hotel is old (built in 1890), but in good shape. The water pressure and hot water in the shower are amazing. You can't use full pressure; it’s just too much! There are no TV or phone, but who cares. There is a slight problem in that the church down the street rings its bells EVERY hour, even at night. However, we had good earplugs and that solved the problem.

We particularly enjoyed our large room with balcony and outstanding view of both Staubbach Fall and the nearly as high Spissbach Fall farther up the valley. We had picnic dinners out there several nights. The hotel has a "picnic" room with a communal kitchen (refrigerator, freezer, microwave, sink) where you can store any perishable food items. There is also an eclectic mixture of dinnerware, glassware, and eating utensils to borrow (and wash later).

SATURDAY, JUNE 4: LAUTERBRUNNEN

This morning we enjoyed the hotel’s included breakfast, which was excellent. We had local cheeses, freshly scrambled eggs, delicious English bacon, bircher muesli, yogurt, fresh croissants, meats, local cherry and strawberry jams, and fresh fruit.

Today was supposed to be another mixed-weather day, so we took the chance that it would stay nice and headed out early on the #141 PostBus to the Schilthornbahn stop (www.postauto.ch/sites/default/files/liniennetz_lauterbrunnental_21-barrierefrei.pdf). This line operates every 30 minutes and only takes 20 minutes to go from the train station in Lauterbrunnen to the end of the line in Stechelberg. The buses and most other public transportation run on the honor system, so there was no need to show the STP. However, if there is a spot inspection and you cannot produce a ticket, the fine is 100 CHF.

The trip to the top of the Schilthorn (schilthorn.ch) requires four separate cable car rides: the base station to Gimmelwald, Gimmelwald to Mürren, Mürren  to Birg, and Birg to Piz Gloria. The first two cable cars are free with the STP and the second two are discounted 50% with the STP. As the cable car climbs up the cliff on the first leg, it passes the lovely Mürrenbach waterfall.

First we went all the way to the top, which is the site of Piz Gloria (9744 ft, 2970 m). The restaurant is famous as the lair of SPECTRE’s Number 1, Ernst Stavro Blofeld (played by Telly Savalas), in “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.” At his “finishing school,” Blofeld hypnotized beautiful women to carry out terrorist acts. Of course, James Bond (played by George Lazenby) saves the day. There is a 007 Walk of Fame and all sorts of Bond-themed exhibits and memorabilia. Of more interest to us was the viewing terrace with stupendous views of the surrounding mountains, including Switzerland’s “big three”: the Eiger  (13,025 ft, 3970 m), Mönch (13,448 ft, 4099), and (intermittently) Jungfrau (13,642 ft, 4158).

Next we rode down to the Birg station, where there is another viewing terrace and a Thrill Walk similar to the Cliff Walk at Titlis, but longer. Thrills include a tight wire walk, a section with glass flooring, and a wire tube to crawl through over the abyss.

Then we rode down to the Mürren station. John spotted a Swiss flag in the gift shop there, but the cashier said that it was not for sale, only for decoration. When I mentioned that I collect flags from each country we visit and that this was my first visit to Switzerland, she took it down and gave it to me! What an example of Swiss hospitality!

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We walked through the quaint, flower-filled town of Mürren (muerren.swiss/en/summer/) and continued for 3.6 miles (5.8 km) to Grütschalp, where we could take a cable car (free with STP) back down to Lauterbrunnen.  This hike follows the train tracks between those two towns through wildflower-strewn meadows, complete with Swiss cows and goats. During the hike, we crossed the tops of several waterfalls. From the trail, we could look back for striking views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. We also had views of the Sphinx observatory above the Jungfraujoch railway station, the highest railway station in Europe (11,332 ft, 3,454 m).

The day was still nice, so we tried riding the cogwheel railway (free with STP) from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen (wengen.swiss/en/summer/), where we planned to take a gondola (50% discount with STP) to Männlichen. From there we wanted to hike the Panorama Trail 2.5 miles (4 km) to Kleine Scheidegg and then take the railway back to Lauterbrunnen. Unfortunately, that trail was still closed due to snow, so we skipped the 2-minute gondola ride and headed back to the hotel. The ride to Wengen did give us an example of how important train transportation is to the life of the Swiss: one person was transporting a boxed IKEA bed and mattress set on the train!

The weather was still holding, so we decided to drive to Wilderswil (about 10 minutes from Lauterbrunnen) and take a 45-minute cogwheel railway (50% discount with STP) to Schynige Platte (www.jungfrau.ch/en-gb/schynige-platte/). Up at the top, at an elevation of 6454 ft (1967 m), we finally got unobscured, panoramic views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. There is also a beautiful Alpine Garden, with all the flowers labeled. (Apparently edelweiss doesn’t bloom until July.) While we were enjoying the garden, the weather finally caught up with us. It started to rain, get very windy, and the temperature dropped.  We donned our plastic ponchos and the rain didn’t last too long, but we decided to cut our hiking short and head back to our balcony for more Swiss wine, cheese, and chocolate. 

SUNDAY, JUNE 5: LAUTERBRUNNEN

The weather forecast for today was for more rain, so we started out right after breakfast to make the most of the day. We took the bus to Trümmelbach Falls (www.truemmelbachfaelle.ch/index.html) and were there before it opened at 9 a.m. This sight is not included on the STP, but there was a 10% discount with the Lauterbrunnen Guest Card. Only one other person joined us for the funicular ride to the midpoint of the falls. This series of 10 waterfalls cascades through such a narrow gorge that it seems like they are subterranean. Tunnels and windows have been cut through the walls of the gorge so that you can look out at each of the falls. This was a spectacular sight!

After that, we took the bus farther up the valley, where we once again took the Schilthorn cableway. The time, we got off at the first station, Gimmelwald (gimmelwald.ch). This is another quaint little town, not as commercialized as Mürren. We hiked a trail down from Gimmelwald to the Lauterbrunnen Valley floor near Stechelberg at the head of the valley. This is quite a steep drop of nearly 2200 ft (670 m) in less than 2.4 miles (3.9 km). We passed several beautiful waterfalls along the way. The relentless downhill trek left me with shaky legs and I needed a rest break near the end at the Sefinen waterfall. Once I was down on the relatively-flat valley floor, I recovered quickly though.

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We started to make the 4.2 mile (6.7 km) hike back to the hotel through the valley, passing Mürrenbach Fall, Buchenbach Fall and Spissbach Fall along the way. It looked like the bad weather that was supposed to come in at 3 p.m. was still holding off.  However, just as we got close to the Staubbach waterfall, almost back to town, it started to rain and we were forced to don our plastic ponchos. Back at the hotel, I learned that the Hotel Staubbach sells Swiss beer at the front desk! By 1:30 p.m., we were relaxing on our balcony with a couple of cold ones and watching the day tourists scurrying back to their cars in the rain.

The rain had stopped and the sun was out by 3 p.m., so we decided to hike back to the Staubbach waterfall. There is a path up that leads to a tunnel, followed by steps (with railings) cut into the side of the cliff; there are openings to see the waterfall from behind its spray. We thought this sight would be more dramatic, but a lot of the flow was being blown away by the wind. After that, we walked along the Weisse Lutschine river promenade. Along with the climb up to the waterfall, we added another 2.6 miles (4.2 km) to our 10.3-mile (16.6-km) total for today. 

This evening, we had a reservation at the Hotel Oberland (www.hoteloberland.ch) for dinner on their covered terrace. Naturally it started sprinkling while we were walking there, but we decided to live with it. John had pork schnitzel with brown cream gravy and delicious French fries, plus a typical Swiss garnish: a peach half filled with whipped cream. I had a typical Zürich dish: sliced veal in a brown gravy with mushrooms  and sour cream, served over rösti (like hash browns, but better). Those were both very good and filling, and went well with large mugs of cold draft beer. The rain was gone again by the time we were finished eating.

MONDAY, JUNE 6: LAUTERBRUNNEN

After breakfast this morning, we tried to do some of the activities that we missed on Friday, when it rained hard all afternoon. First we rode the train to the Interlaken Ost station and took the funicular (50% discount with STP) up to Harder Kulm (www.jungfrau.ch/de-ch/harder-kulm/) at an elevation of 4337 ft (1322 m). From the Two Lakes Jetty viewing platform that juts out from the mountain, the views of Lakes Brienz and Thun were spectacular. We also had great views of the Jungfrau, but the Eiger and Mönch were clouded over. We hiked some of the trails up there too, which were not marked as well as we had expected.

After we came down from Harder Kulm, we walked back to the train station; boat tours of Lake Brienz start from there. We decided to take a three-hour tour (included in the STP) aboard the nostalgic 1914 paddle-wheel steamer SS Lötschberg (www.bls.ch/en/freizeit-und-ferien/schiff/schiffseinsatzplan). Since we had a 1st Class STP, we could sit up on the top deck for excellent views. The cruise allowed us to see two sights that we had missed because of Friday’s rain. Then, we had planned to walk along the Brienz Lakeside Promenade, but the mountain scenery was obscured by the downpour. Now we were now able to enjoy the gorgeous vistas. We had also attempted to drive to and hike the 14 Giessbach Falls (swissfamilyfun.com/giessbach-waterfalls/). The cruise zigzagged across the lake and stopped at Giessebach, but we did not have enough time to get off and hike today. Nevertheless, seeing where the falls poured into the lake was impressive. 

Once back in Interlaken, we scoped out the Interlaken West train station and the location of the Europcar office, where John was to return the car. We were disappointed to find out that the office would not be staffed tomorrow, despite what our rental contract said. However, return instructions were posted on the door and John intended to take lots of photos in case there were any problems with the return.

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Sorry you missed the trail down to Kleine Scheidegg. It opened up when I was there. You must have just missed it by a couple of days.

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After taking the train back to Lauterbrunnen, we decided to drive to Isenfluh (www.isenfluh.ch/english/), which is supposed to be off the tourist track, but have some of the best views of the “big three” mountains. No wonder it is off the beaten track: the road up is only 1.5 lanes wide, with hairpin turns and a long circular tunnel. It was nerve-wracking to creep along and take a pull-off or even back down the mountain when encountering another car. Once at Isenfluh, the mountains were still obscured, so we just turned around and took the white-knuckle drive back down.

We decided that we had enough sightseeing for today and headed back to Lauterbrunnen to fuel up the car. We planned to savor more wine and cheese on our balcony, while enjoying views of Staubbach Fall and the many paragliders wheeling through the skies up the valley near Stechelberg.

Imagine our surprise to open our hotel room door and find a woman standing on our balcony!  She was staying a couple of rooms down the hall and got into a conversation with another woman, whose room was on the other side of ours. She apparently didn’t see any problem with hopping over the dividers between the balconies to get closer to the other woman to speak with her. She was very embarrassed and apologetic to get caught on someone else’s balcony! She latter gave us a small bottle of wine to make amends!

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Carrie—Yes, that is the problem with in the shoulder season as opposed to the high season—some of the trails and mountain lifts were still closed. When we originally planned this trip, we were trying to be back in the US for some friends' 50th wedding anniversary celebration in New Orleans, which ended up being canceled. I'm glad you got to do the hike!