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Trip Report, June 2022: Central Switzerland By Car & Train—Chur To Lugano

FRIDAY, JUNE 10: CHUR TO LUGANO

This morning we left Chur on the Bernina Express train (www.rhb.ch/en/panoramic-trains/bernina-express) for the 4-hour trip to Tirano, Italy. Like the Glacier Express, the train is free with the STP, but requires seat reservations for an extra fee. This train is also quite popular, but we were able to reserve 1st Class seats; the cars were almost as crowded as the Glacier Express. We actually saw more glaciers on this train than we did on the Glacier Express. However one of the main attractions of this train is all of the interesting viaducts and tunnels, some of which are spirals that dramatically reduce the land area needed to increase/decrease elevation. 

The first part of the route, from Chur to Samedan, overlaps part of the Glacier Express route that we did not take yesterday. First we backtracked from Chur to Reichenau along the Rhine River and then started following the Hinterrhein River. This part of the route has many hillside castles, hearkening back to the time when tolls were extorted to travel on the river. Between Thusis and Filisur, the train crosses the Landwasser River gorge on the famous Landwasser viaduct. The train crossed slowly so that we could have time to admire the curved viaduct, with its six limestone arches towering 213 ft (65 m) high above the river. The viaduct leads directly to the Landwasser Tunnel. In the eight miles (12.9 km) between Bergün and Preda, the train loops up through five spiral and two straight tunnels, crosses nine viaducts, and goes under two galleries—ascending 1365 ft (416 m). From Preda to Spina, the train passes through the Albula Tunnel, the highest subterranean Alpine crossing in Europe. Between Pontresina and Poschiavo, we began to see glaciers—Morteratsch, Sassal Masone, Piz Cambrena—as the train climbed to the highest point on this trip, the Ospizio Bernina station at 7403 ft (2256 m). Next to the station is Lago Bianco, white from glacial runoff. Just before reaching Poschiavo, the Palü Gletscher glacier came into view. As the train descended to Tirano, Italy, it spiraled down through the Brusio viaduct—the train makes a complete circle and exits through one of the viaduct’s arches.

A few days ago, Italy eliminated the requirement that persons entering Italy be vaccinated against COVID. Thus we did not have to show our vaccination certificates. In fact, we just walked out of the train station; there were no Italian border officials in evidence at all. From the station, we made a sharp right turn towards a pedestrian underpass with the sign “Bus to Lugano e Poschiavo;” that leads to the connecting red Bernina Express bus to Lugano, CH.

We now had a 1.5 hour “rest stop” before the 3-hour trip to Lugano. We found a comfortable bench in the shade and read our Kindles until it was time to board the bus; the weather was significantly warmer here than in Chur. The bus route took us through the Swiss-influenced part of Italy. There were many picturesque Italian villages and lots of grape vines (mostly Nebbiolo). Some of the towns had streets so narrow that it was amazing that the bus could squeeze through. Just before reaching Lake Como, we had a potty break at Sorico.  From there, the route traveled along Lake Como to Menaggio before turning inland. At Porlezza, the route began following the shoreline of Lake Lugano; we crossed into Switzerland near Gandria. Once in Lugano, the Bernina Express Bus station is about 0.1 mile (170 m) from the main train station.

Finally we reached Lugano (www.luganoregion.com/en) and trudged to our hotel. It is close to the train station, but on the opposite side from the Old Town. That means we had to go through the train station to get to everything interesting. There is a funicular (free with STP) from the train station down into the Old Town.

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We spent two nights at the Hotel Montarina & Backpackers Hostel (www.montarina.com/index.php), which has accommodations ranging from mixed dormitories with shared bathrooms to private en suite rooms. The hotel occupies the historic Villa Montarina (built 1860-1870) and is located in a lush subtropical palm park. Our comfort room was up a flight of stairs, so suitcases had to be lugged up with no elevator. There was a small balcony with a view of Lake Lugano, but no curtains across the glass doors. Fortunately, there were shutters that could be closed to block the morning light and some of the train station noise. Alas, part of the convenience of being close to train station is train noise; proper use of earplugs takes care of that issue. The private bathroom is small but adequate; bath gel is provided only in tiny pouches. The bed is comfy and they provided an extra pillow on request. There a small refrigerator and welcome AC in this warm part of Switzerland.

This evening we had reservations at a Ticinese grotto (cave restaurant, this version in an old wine cellar). La Tinèra (tineralugano.business.site) is in the Old Town, only about two blocks from the bottom of the funicular. This small restaurant oozes charm and also has great local food. We started with a glass of Prosecco to celebrate the announcement that COVID tests would no longer be needed to enter the US after midnight Sunday. We then shared a dish of risotto with mushrooms and luganiga, a traditional Ticinese sausage. Then John had veal osso buco and I had beef brassato (pot roast). Both of those were served with Ticinese polenta, which is made with buckwheat flour instead of corn meal.  The buckwheat gave the polenta a hearty character. We paired our food with a young Merlot from the Ticino region that was light and enjoyable; the wine was served in the traditional tazzin—Ticinese ceramic wine bowls. We did not have an appetite for dessert, so we had a local digestif called Amaro Generoso. We shared one glass of regular and one of reserva. This is a bittersweet herbal liquor; I could taste fennel seeds, but I am not sure about the other herbs. This was a fantastic experience—rustic and authentic!

SATURDAY, JUNE 11: LUGANO

Today was another gorgeous day in the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland! We slept in a bit, but still had time to walk along the Lugano waterfront to Paradiso and catch the 9 a.m. Monte San Salvatore funicular (www.montesansalvatore.ch/en/). As usual, there was a 50% discount with the STP. It was interesting to see the crates of fresh vegetables being transported up to the restaurant on top of the mountain.

Once at the top of the mountain, there is a nature trail that leads up to the eponymous church on the summit. There is a viewing platform on top of the church that provides spectacular 360 degree panoramas. We could even see snow-capped Monte Rosa in Italy. There is also a tiny museum just below the church that has some nice geological samples and fossils up on its second floor. The first floor has some church-related items. We spent about 45 minutes up here.

After taking the funicular back down, we decided to take a cruise on Lake Lugano from Paradiso (www.luganoregion.com/en/see-do/lake-nature/lake/cruises-on-lugano-lake), but get off after a half-hour in Gandria to have lunch on a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the lake. These boat tours are included free with the STP. We had about a 30 minute wait for the boat, so we took the opportunity to have some gelato (my idea).

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The boat was packed, but we managed to get seats outside on the bow. We reached Gandria (www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/destinations/gandria/), on the slopes of Monte Brè, just before noon and beat everyone else on the packed boat to Rick Steves’ preferred restaurant. I had not tried to make a reservation because I had no idea what time we might actually get to Gandria. Plenty of others had made reservations though, and we were told we could come back in two hours.

There is not much else to do in Gandria except get something to eat, so we decided to try one of Rick’s alternative restaurants. Ristorante Roccabella (ristoranteroccabella.ch) is right on the water and they had a table for two available on their upstairs terrace. Since we had Ticinese meat dishes last night, we decided to try seafood today. John had perch from the lake cooked in a butter-sage sauce; I had grilled prawns. Those both came with vegetables, potatoes, and bread, so this was a substantial and delicious meal. We accompanied lunch with a good local lager and ended it with espresso. A nice experience on a nice day!

After lunch, we hiked back to Lugano on the Sentiero dell'Olivo (www.luganoregion.com/en/see-do/lake-nature/nature-outdoor/theme-trails/detail/id/12782/the-olive-grove-trail). This trail follows the lake about halfway to Lugano and there are placards along the way giving more information than most people (including us) could ever want to know about growing olives. Of course, there are some olive trees and some fig trees (with humongous unripe figs). Eventually the trail stops abruptly and you have to walk along city streets, with only occasional views of the water and not much shade. If you aren’t an avid walker, there is the option to take a bus from Castagnola back to Lugano.

Finally we reached Lugano’s city park, where we could recuperate in the shade and rehydrate. This is a beautiful park with gorgeous flowers, especially hydrangeas in unusual deep purple and magenta shades. We continued along the waterfront of the Old Town (www.planetware.com/i/map/CH/lugano-map.jpg), detouring to visit a couple of interesting squares and churches. Piazza Indipendenza features a bronze sculpture of a giant head. San Rocco is filled with frescos depicting the saint’s career stopping plagues. St. Mary of the Angels has a huge 16th-century fresco of the Passion and Crucifixion that covers a whole wall and took the artist 10 years to paint. An interesting detail is at the base of the cross: Adam’s skull, femur, and the rib that God made into Eve. We also encountered the “Summer Jamboree on the Lake”: a festival with music and a classic car show (American cars of the 50s and 60s!). During our walk, John had the brilliant idea to get another gelato.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a COOP grocery to get some wine and olives to enjoy as an evening snack on our tiny balcony. We also got a Toblerone because we hadn’t eaten one of those yet.