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Trip Report: Germany (Rhein, Rothenburg, Garmisch, Munich) and Rome (10 days) Part 1

Hello. A brief trip report for our 10 day trip from U.S. to Germany and Italy.

Day 1: Flew into Frankfurt (8am local time arrival). Picked up rental car (Hertz) and drove 1 hour to Rhein area. We stayed in Bacharach at Hotel Pension Im Malerwinkel. Nice hotel, great location, nice hosts, and for $75e, no complaints. Breakfast was included. We rented bikes from the hotel and rode along the Rhein from Bacharach to St Goar to tour Reinfels Castle. You can take the ferry back with the bikes if you don’t feel like peddling back.

Day 2: Drove to Wurzburg, had lunch, and toured the Residence. Recommend the self-guide tour. We then continued on the Rothenburg where we stayed at Hotel Gasthof Goldener Greifen ($85e, included breakfast). For dinner we ate at Eiscafe-Pizzeria Italia which was very good and a nice change from german cuisine. We did not do the Night Watchman tour because it was cold that night although there was probably 30-40 people in the group.

Day 3: Drove to Garmisch and stayed 2 nights at an AirBNB. (https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3187197) Very nice place that is part of Staudacherhof Hotel so you get all the amenties (Spa, pool, hot tub, etc) We attempted to do the Hoellentalklamm Hike but the gorge was closed (heard very positive reviews of this). Instead we went to the Monastery in Ettal (Ettal Abbey) and walked around Garmisch. For breakfast-Café Kneitinger has great pastries, coffee, and the prices are cheap.

Day 4: Drove to Neuschwanstein Castle and had the early reservation for 8:45am to beat the other tourist crowds (highly recommend). *Don’t forget to make reservations 2 days in advance. Plus, there was no traffic on the road and it made for a very scenic and enjoyable drive. We packed a lunch and ate it after our tour of the castle. Then drove to Linderhof Palace for the tour. (See note below about Bavarian Pass) On the way we stopped at Wies Church which was very neat to see. We ate at the Fraundorfer for dinner in Garmisch-A good place for traditional German food, live music, and beer.

Day 5: Drove to Munich. First stop was Dachau. Second stop was Nymphenburg Palace (Bavarian Pass). We dropped our luggage off at our hotel (Hotel Torbrau) and then returned our rental car at the central train station, and had a nice walk from the train station to Hofbrauhaus for dinner and drinks. We got a good deal on Hotel Torbrau ($150e) and really enjoyed our stay. The hotel is very nice, awesome location, great breakfast, room clean, TV, and they stored our bags the next day.

Day 6: Did the Munich City Walk from Rick Steves’ book, which included a visit to the Vikteilenmarkt, Residence and Mareinplatz. This took up most of our day and it is a great way to see everything in the city.
To get to Rome, we took the OBB NightJet from Munich central train station to Rome central train station. The train left Munich at 8pm and was scheduled to arrive in Rome at 9am. See more below for OBB NightJet.

Day 7: Night train arrived in Rome in the morning. We stopped at a booth in the Rome train station to purchase the 3-day Roma Pass (worth the price). Visited the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill. We stayed at an AirBNB in Trestevere. I would highly recommend this area for easy access to all parts of rome, shopping, and eating.

Day 8: Visited Borghese Gallery first and then did the Risk Steves’ Rome Walk in reverse order. This was a great way to see the city. Note: You must make reservations over the phone for the Borghese Gallery. They said you must purchase your Roma Pass before you call to make reservations, however they never asked for our Roma Pass card until we arrived the day of. I would call at least a week in advance to get your time reserved.

Posted by
314 posts

Great trip report! We will be doing almost the identical trip in 2 weeks, but in reverse.

Thanks for sharing.

Posted by
125 posts

Great report. We are taking a trip to Europe in September.....staying in Ehrwald Austria for almost 2 weeks and then on to Venice, Italy for a couple days....we are going to some of the same places as you so glad you had a good time!!

Posted by
441 posts

Thanks for the nice report! We will be in Bacharach soon, as well as Rothenburg and a stop in Wurzburg in between, like you did. How was the biking around St Goar etc? I am trying to decide between hiking and biking (maybe can do both!)

Posted by
5 posts

I would prefer to bike from St Goar to Bacharach instead of the other way around but both are doable. I would rather bike than hike. It is a bit longer than expected.

Posted by
5606 posts

Just a note about bike transport for future readers...

We rented bikes from the hotel and rode along the Rhein from Bacharach
to St Goar to tour Reinfels Castle. You can take the ferry back with
the bikes if you don’t feel like peddling back.

There is a ferry in St. Goar, but it only crosses the river to St. Goarshausen. So I think bsf588 is referring to the KD cruise boat.

The KD cruise boats travel from St. Goar to Bacharach in the afternoons at 12:20, 15:20 and 17:20. The upstream cruise takes 1 hr. 10 minutes and the passenger fare is about €15. The bike pays a fare of €2.80.

The other choice for tired riders is the train. Trains from St. Goar to Bacharach run every hour and take :09 minutes and the fare is about €4. The bike pays nothing for the train ride (after 9 am only.) The train cars in this area are marked to indicate bikes are OK to bring on board, as you see in this photo.