Part I:
Salzburg/Berchtesgaden, Germany
Our daughter was starting a summer program in Gaming Austria in late May so our family of 4 (me 61, hubby 61, son 22 and said daughter 21) decided to go 2 weeks ahead for family trip. We decided to spend time in Salzburg, Berchtesgaden, and Vienna (we also spent 3 glorious days in Budapest which you can read about in another trip report). Here is report for Austria and Germany :
Tuesday May 9th, we flew Aer Lingus out of Boston into Munich. (We had a layover in Dublin ). Customs in Germany was so easy. We got our passports stamped and our checked-bags were literally spinning on the carousel right around the corner! The Rick Steves Travel Forum users had tipped me off to getting the Bayern Ticket at a vending machine at the airport train station. I actually went on the DB appl and bought it on line. Great deal: cost is $27 Euro for 1st person, then 9 euro for each additional person up to 5 people. (must travel after 9am M-F or anytime weekends). We took the S-8 from airport to Munich Ostbahnhof. The S-8 goes every 20 min. There, we changed to hourly regional train to Salzburg. The regional train leaves Ostbahnhof at 4 past the hour and takes 1hr 40 to get to Salzburg. (even though Salzburg is in Austria, the train is considered to be in Bavaria).
We literally followed these directions I copied/pasted form Travel Forum: "Tip: There are no seat reservations on these regional trains. Go east on the platform where the first cars stop, there are most seats free (because most people are too lazy to walk that far at the main station where the train originates). Freilassing is not the end of the line, it is the last station in Bavaria before Salzburg."
NOTE: The app asked if I wanted to book first or 2nd class seats. There are no reserved seats on these so just pick 2nd class (not even sure why it gives that choice).
https://www.bahn.com/en/offers/regional/regional-day-ticket-for-bavaria?dbkanal_007=teaserSliderBigImage_3-1_link_laenderticketbayern ($60 dollars)
The train ride was great. It was a quiet trip with hardly anyone in our car. We watched the beautiful German countryside whiz by. There were fields and fields of yellow flowers that a quick Google search told us was Rapeseed, that is used to make canola oil. It’s funny because the fields ablaze in yellow reminded me of my bus ride from Madrid to Salamanca in 1987 where there were sunflowers forever for Spain's sunflower oil production.
We arrived at the main train station in Salzburg and walked about ½ hour (with all our luggage!) to the Old Town where we found our LOVELY home for the night---Gasthaus im Priesterseminar, a working seminary that has a wing reserved for lodgers. This building totally reminded me of my summer in Salamanca---gorgeous courtyard with fountain. The rooms were simple but clean, like a retreat house room: a small table (with a tiny bottle of their homemade jam), clean shower and toilet, comfy bed, and a crucifix on the wall behind the bed!). Hubby and I shared a room with a double bed (literally 2 twin beds pushed together!) and the kids shared a room down the hall that had 2 twin beds. We unpacked, showered, and headed out. see Part 2
Trip Report Germany/Austria May 2023 Part 2
I had booked our lodging after seeing it listed on booking.com so really didn't know what to expect but the location was perfect, just 5 minute walk to Mirabell Gardens. (Note- we were here in early May with no crowds. It may be louder in peak season. They hand out ear plugs so I'm guessing it is!) We walked out and over a bridge (there are several!), over the bluish river that was rushing under us. We walked to the Austiner Brau House https://www.augustinerbier.at/home.html taking pictures along the way and saying how everything looked like Epcot Germany! This is a HUGE meeting space, beer hall, with lots of rooms w/ long tables and chairs and, outside of the rooms, lots of food stalls throughout. The monks have been brewing here since 1621. This was definitely a “local” hangout with lots of middle to older aged men sitting in groups and drinking, eating and talking. There were couples, mixed aged groups-very cool! Hubby picked out the size stein he wanted, rinsed it under the running water at the giant basin, and then had it filled from the keg that had been tapped that day. He was in heaven! Our first attempts at using German, were very humbling. I went to pay for 3 sodas for the kids and me and the woman could not understand me at all (“ich mochte coke, bitte”. She was very patient, but when I tried my German out on the guy handing out the sodas, he was having none of it (“I don’t understand. Nope, Nope. I don’t understand”. UGH.) We peeked at the different stalls and managed to order (lots of pointing, “danke”, “danke”, “mein Deutch ist nicht gut”, and smiling). We all liked what we had that night (Hubby and I I had schnitzel w/ sauerkraut,; the kids had some chicken dish with fries they said was great). I noticed a group of men sitting nearby and struck up a conversation with them (“Sprechen Sie Englisch?” One man replied, “ein bishcen” (a little) and then proceeded to speak very well. He explained that this place is always crowded (this was a Wednesday evening). People like coming because, aside from having to buy your drink here (soda, beer whatever), you can bring your own food and sit and visit as long as you want. Indeed, the man sitting beside my new friend was busy cutting pepperoni and cheese as we talked. My friend told me that, in nice weather, there are always people in the outdoor garden (capacity of 1,400!) and often traditional music and dancing happening.
From there we walked all the way back to the Fortress where we had tickets for the 8:30 Mozart concert. We marveled at the many church bells we kept hearing (and sirens). The Lock Bridge looked like it had roses in the fencing. We passed beautiful old buildings that were literally built into the rock. It was rainy but still looked beautiful with the mountains shrouded in clouds and the different bridges crossing the rapids below. We walked through the Old Town, along the Getreidegasse with all the fancy stores, past the Kapitelplatz and Domplatz with the giant golden globe with the man standing on top, Mozartplatz with the giant chess set. Up the funicular we went into the Fortress that is literally in the rock. Gorgeous views of Salzburg below with her beautiful churches. The concert was lovely—not crowded, in a pretty room with comfy chairs set up like we were at a small recital. I wondered if my son needed dress shoes (definitely did not). The music was beautiful, but the jet lag was definitely catching up with us. The concert was 8:30 to 10 pm with an intermission. We could have stopped after the first half because I kept nodding off, but it was a special way to end our first night in Mozart’s hometown and I’m glad we did it. We walked back to our place (so close) and drifted off into dreamland. https://www.salzburghighlights.at/en/best-of-mozart-concerts/best-of-mozart-fortress-concert-21/ (we paid $175 dollars total for 4 of us). see part 3
Trip Report Germany/Austria May 2023 Part 3
Thursday 5/11/23
We got up and headed down to the breakfast room at 8am. It’s definitely different here for breakfast---no American coffee (hubby had espresso and I had tea), lots of cold cuts, cheeses and tomatoes, bread to toast and some baked breads that were not sweet even though they looked like they’d be! There was a nice assortment of granola, yogurt, honey and eggs in a basket (not hard boiled, I found out when I tried to peel them. They were “soft boiled” and meant to be placed in an egg holder with the top of the shell cracked and then the egg eaten out with a spoon. It was a mix of American and Austrians. I am amazed how the Austrians speak German amongst themselves but can speak English when needed. The woman at reception is from Budapest but also speaks German and English. Our waitress tonight (her first day on the job!) is from Croatia but spoke German and English fluently and is currently studying Spanish. Amazing.
After breakfast we checked out, leaving our luggage in the front room at the Seminary as we headed out, umbrellas in hand. We walked over to Mozart’s Birthplace, a museum now. It’s a pretty yellow building just over the bridge. It was very interesting. Hamnet, the book I am listening to right now, takes place in the late 1500’s. Even though Mozart wasn’t born until 1756, the description of the living conditions, infant mortality, mothers dying in childbirth, disease etc. were where I was "living" inside my book. I love when a book I’m reading kind of pokes it way into my life. Mozart’s mother had 7 children, but only Mozart and his sister lived past their first birthdays. Worth the visit. https://mozarteum.at/mozart-museen/mozarts-geburtshaus#info ($60 for 4 of us)
From there, we took a short walk over to Café Glockenspiel. https://felleis-knittelfelder.at/cafe-glockenspiel/ ($62) We were going to go in the Salzburg Cathedral (Where Mozart was baptized and his parents were married) but there was going to be an organ concert starting in a few minutes at noon and we were not really up for that. Instead, we decided to find a spot along the Mozartplatz and enjoy a treat until the concert ended in 30 minutes. We sat outside at the Café Glackenspiel. The bakery case inside was filled with so many desserts. My son's choice was amazing. He had vanilla ice cream with warm raspberry sauce, fresh whipped cream and a wafer cookie in it. I had happened to notice St. Michael Church right around the corner as we headed to the café. It had a wooden door with a plaque, easy to miss. I googled it and read that this church was “the” church until newer ones were built. After our treat break, my daughter and I peeked in the church while hubby and son headed back to the Cathedral. It was small and beautiful inside. As we walked in, there was a group of 4 women praying the Rosary. I sat on the pew beside them. My daughter stayed for a minute, but then headed over to the Cathedral (correctly telling hubby and son, “Mom is gonna be a while; she is in her happy place!” She was right. I listened to them recite the prayers in German, each taking a turn leading a decade of the Rosary. When the woman next to me finished her decade, one of the other women turned to me and said (in English), “now it’s your turn”. “I don’t speak German!”. “That’s ok, you do the first half in English and we will finish it in German”. So I did. It was a special moment for me, sitting in a church in Salzburg praying the Rosary with German-speaking women. I joined the rest of my crew at the Cathedral. We didn’t plan it to be a “church” day, but we saw so many of them today. see part 4
Trip Report Austria/Germany May 2/2023 Part 4
After the Cathedral, we took a short walk (there are so many churches and they are so close) to St. Peter’s Church, cemetery and “catacombs”. The cemetery there is extraordinary. Ornate graves with fresh flowers, big, gated areas where families are buried, and the catacombs which were carved into the rock there (Monchsberg). They were used as burial grounds, hermitages and places for mass. Amazing. And the views of Salzburg and the other churches seen from the windows of the Catacombs were breathtaking. We stopped in at The Margaret Chapel on the grounds before going inside St. Peter church. Any one of the altar areas in there would be amazing, but these churches all have so many of them.
It was getting close to 3pm and we wanted to get our luggage and head out. We made a quick detour on our walk back to see Mirabell Gardens. This is where the “Doe A Deer” song from Sound of Music was filmed. The lilacs climbing along the rock walls looked (and smelled) fantastic. We snapped a few pics here and then headed right around the corner to pick up our luggage. Salzburg was wonderful, but we were on for our next adventure in Germany....
We took a cab from Salzburg to Freilassing, Germany to pick up our rental car. Our cab driver did not speak English (even though he played his Electronic Dance Music /EDM very loudly). We will never hear “Hotel California” the same way again! He drove us right to the car rental place in Freilassing. (35 euro plus tip for cab ride). The rental car guys were great. I had arranged our car rental through Bob Bestor at https://ggemut.com (recommended on Travel Forum since any issues, you call them directly). .
May 11 4pm ---May 16th 4pm (24 hr period. We returned Tuesday morning but considered 5 days)
$282 us dollars rental/ $57 to refill tank/$11 for Austria Vignette (toll sticker) required.
We got to our AirBnB in Berchtesgaden. It was lovely, with room to spread out. Ulrike, the woman who owns it (lives upstairs but was away when we arrived) was wonderful to deal with over the computer, by text when we arrived, and in person before we left. https://www.airbnb.com/guest/inbox/1407057970?ttype=home_booking (1,337 us dollars /5 nights)
We enjoyed dinner at Sophie's in town that night. http://www.sophies-restaurant.com/de/willkommen/ ($123 dinner w/ desserts)
Fri 5/12/2023i
It was overcast most of our time here. I so wished, especially for the kids since hubby and I saw the Alps in Switzerland on our honeymoon, that the weather was clear so they’d get that “OH WOW” view. At least no rain predicted. We had breakfast at Café Ernst . It’s right in Berchtesgaden on our way to Konigsee. It is a wonderful bakery with fabulous breads, desserts etc. We had egg sandwiches. Sylvia, the woman who helped us, was so patient with us and let me try out my German with her. We went back another day for to-go items. I would highly recommend this spot. . If it lived there, I’d be a regular! http://ernst-backhandwerkerei.de/
Konigsee (King Lake) (berchtesgaden.de) ($121 for 4) Go very early if in-season. We were fine since May and cloudy day. The lake was beautiful. It is nestled near Mt. Watzmann. I had read many reviews on this in the Trip Forum and knew we’d enjoy it. The water is emerald. It is the 3rd deepest lake in Germany. The ferries are electric. Someone recommended the seats on the right side, which we went with! You can stop at the little island w/ St. Bartholomew’s church (beautiful red, onion-shaped domes) either on the way over or back. Originally, we planned to stop on the way back, but we spent all our time hiking on the farther end of the boat ride which, for us, was a better choice. We have seen so many churches and were finally able to enjoy the natural surroundings here.
see part 5
Austria Germany Trip Report May 2023 Part 5
On the way over, the tour guide gave descriptions but, since it was in German, made no sense to us! He did, however, stop in the middle of the 50 minute ride and blow on his trumpet so we could hear the tremendous echo effect off the sheer rock walls!. The water was amazing--so clear and looked like the Caribbean. We got off at Salet (only other stop!) and took the easy 10 minute walk to Obersee. It was beautiful with the boat house right there. On the far side of the lake, you could see a “hut” for refreshments and way in the background, you could see Rothback Falls. We walked the very steep path up and down steps (thank goodness for the “grabbers” there so I could pull myself along). After that path, we came out near the hut and continued on thru a meadow (missing the cows----still too early). We made it to the Rothbach Falls. It was a big hike for me (had Achiles surgery year ago) but doable. We were all tired, stiff and chilled as we boarded the 2nd-to-last boat for the 50 minute ride back. As we walked out past the shops, restaurants, and souvenir stands along with all the other people leaving after a long day, it felt like we were leaving the German-section of StoryLand (a place we used to visit in New Hampshire when the kids were little).
We hit Edeka (the grocery store chain) on our way home. This was very interesting. It was a nice store and there was a VERY nice woman who overheard Ron and me discussing the fact that he found coffee but couldn’t find the liners. Just as I suggested we just have tea this week, she piped up. “What are you looking for?” She went so out of her way (in fairness, I would have, too). She helped us find the coffee liners, the peanut butter (which, she said, is hard to find in Germany). We came home, put stuff away and headed right into the village for dinner. We skipped the Italian restaurant in the lobby of Hotel Edelweiss (looked very fancy and I knew would be overpriced). Instead, we found a little Italian place, Ristorante Da Branka, that was perfect. Individual pizzas for hubby and the kids, and I had plain pasta with marinara sauce. It was delicious comfort food after our busy day. https://www.ristorante-dalmacija.de/ ($66 dinner )
Saturday5/13/23
Today we ate breakfast at home. I had seen a very descriptive itinerary (as with recipes, I need specific guidance!) so I used that to help plan today. (was helpful in Budapest, too) . https://shewandersabroad.com/ https://shewandersabroad.com/3-day-berchtesgaden-itinerary/
I used her 3- day itinerary for ideas of what to do, based on weather!
We skipped the Lockstein Observation Deck in town since there was a lot of cloud cover. We headed in the direction of Ramsau, stopping at Wimbachklamm, a beautiful gorge with a decked walkway all around it. It was stunning and pretty amazing because we basically had the place to ourselves to wonder around without seeing anyone for most of our visit! It reminded all of us of New Hampshire but with more powerful and clear water rushing through. Lots of stops to just peek out and soak it in. Highly enjoyable! It was only 2.50 euro each w/ our Berchtesgaden card (which you get since staying in Berchtesgaden)
https://www.berchtesgaden.de/en/nature-wonders/gorges 2.50 euro each w/ Berchtesgaden card)
From there, we continued to Ramsau, a beautiful tiny town with St. Sebastian church. We had considered staying at an inn here, but I decided the more room we’d get with an AirBnB, plus proximity to a bigger town with restaurants etc, made more sense for us. I must admit, seeing this little town with adorable German style homes dotting the steep meadows made me wonder, but our spot is better for us (plus I love driving down the steep--25% grade!! hill from our neighborhood and coming around the corner to see all of Berchtesgaden, with the Collegiate Church’s 2 columns, laying before us). see Part 6
Austria Germany Trip May 2023 Part 6
We drove along Rte 305. The views of green fields were STUNNING. We happened upon a turn-out on the side of the road with benches and stopped for an impromptu picnic lunch. We had the whole place to ourselves as we watched a farmer on his tractor far below and a woman walking beside a girl on a horse. We enjoyed our fresh rolls we had picked up at Café Ernst along with the brie cheese from the grocery store. We felt very European!
We turned around there and drove into Ramsau where we parked and explored. The church was beautiful, as was the cemetery. All the graves in Germany are so well tended with annual flowers. I saw a woman entering with a basket of flowers to plant. We walked over a few bridges there. We spotted an ice cream place. I was proud of us for ordering in German (well, at least pronouncing the words from the menu as best we could). The man spoke very little English. When he saw my son's Patriots sweatshirt he said, “Texas?”. Apparently the logos for the teams are similar. I said, “Patriots, Tom Brady” to which he replied “Bodie Miller and Michaela Shiffri—ski fahren”. That was actually a vocabulary word I had learned “ski fahren” but it’s pronounced “She Far-en” so I was delighted I understood (though my son knew, by their names, the man was referencing Alpine skiers!)
We left there and drove 5 minutes down the street (thank you https://shewandersabroad.com/3-day-berchtesgaden-itinerary/) to Zauberwald, which means “Magic Forest”. This place lives up to its name. We followed the easy path along the river through the forest. GORGEOUS. There were lots of benches where you could stop to take in the views. There was great signage (in German but with pictures of all the plants). Who knew my vocab word “Zwerg”(dwarf) would be needed? My son refilled our water bottles with the fresh water. Just a great family trek.
We walked through to Hintersee, a pretty lake where we watched a pair of ducks as the raindrops fell onto the water. We could see the boat rentals (including swan boats) across the water and actually heard cuckoo birds calling as we sat there. I have never heard a cuckoo bird before.
For dinner, we ate at the Gasthof Neuhaus, a beer garden right in Berchtesgaden. It was very cozy with a paneled ceiling. Our waiter was so nice and patient as I tried my German (to my son's embarrassment). At the end of dinner, the waiter encouraged me to just keep speaking German because that is how he learned. I thought he was German. He said he moved here from Croatia 6 years ago and learned German by watching a German movie over and over again (like 20 times!) He said his English has slipped because he is not using it as much, although it sounded great to me. We were all inspired, once again, by people who speak not just 2, but 3 languages. https://www.edelweiss-berchtesgaden.com/kulinarik/gasthof-neuhaus/
Sunday 5/14/23 (Mother’s Day) German Parade!
Ulrike, our AirBnB host, texted me to say not to be alarmed if we heard “shooters” tomorrow beginning at 6am. It was the final day of the celebration they were having for the 100th anniversary of the Bavarian Culture Clubs of the area. We had seen some young adults in traditional Bavarian dress in town when we were out for dinner the last few days and wondered what was up. From the translation, I thought there would be some fireworks going off. I am so glad she told us about it. We heard the “shooters”.. It was not fireworks but, a giant canon way up on the hill overlooking the Collegiate Church. I had read that the groups from the Bavarian Culture Clubs would march down the hill from the canon and enter the Collegiate Church for mass. The funny thing was, as we headed over to see the crowds, we first passed a beer garden where many of the marchers were gathered drinking beer and chatting. see part 7
Trip Report May 2-23 Part 7
When we reached the Collegiate Church, we realized that some processed into the church, but the others we had seen at the beer garden were the ones who decided to skip mass and had peeled off and headed for drinks! It was cool to see throngs of adults and kids all dressed in traditional outfits, with different colors/emblems signifying which was their club. The bands were playing (“Come and Hear the German Band” flashed back in my mind, an oldie but goodie we sang in 4th grade music class!). I took lots of great pictures. It was chilly and we knew we had an hour before they would be done with mass and end up at the green. We ducked into the lobby of Edelweiss Hotel and sat in VERY COZY seats to enjoy tea (me), hot chocolate (kids), and coffee (hubby). I love how the waiters here don’t bring the check, or even ask if you want the check. We were able to warm up, relax, and people watch out the big windows overlooking the street. At 11 am we headed out and watched the groups march in a parade right on the street in front of us.
Monday 5/15/23
Showers were predicted to end around noon, so we decided we’d take a road trip through Austria to visit a few towns recommended on the Rick Steves Travel Forum. I drove on the Autobahn (not as crazy fast as I feared) into Mondsee which has the chapel that was used for the wedding of Maria and Baron von Trapp in the Sound of Music and is right on a lake. To be honest, it was mostly closed so a little depressing. It was odd to be wondering around boat rental kiosks, ice cream stands etc that were all closed up. The Sound of Music Church was pretty, but we have seen a lot of churches on this trip. A busload of tourists had just left. Seeing them made me realize I can’t imagine what it must be like here in the summer—loads of people. I think it would be just too touristy for me.
We drove to St. Gilgen. St. Gilgen was a very cute town, more what I pictured Mondsee would be. It reminded me of Bar Harbor Maine in the sense that it had cute shops, ice cream places, a nice green with water (Wolfgangsee here) as a backdrop. Many stores here were closed and again, there was a tour bus with lots of people milling around. We stopped for a warm drink at Café Nannerl (nothing special https://www.cafenannerl.at/). We had hoped to see some stores with the cuckoo clocks we had read about, but they were closed.
By now it had started to clear and we thought about doing the cable car up to Zwolferhorn Mt. to get a nice view, but decided we’d drive up to have a look. Oops…long story short: I drove up a winding dirt road that we should not have been on! We ended up on a gravel trail (not a road) so we turned back, but not before being “screamed at” by a large group of sheep running down a hill toward the car (fences make good neighbors). I have it on video and it will be a fun family memory for sure. By now, we thought “let’s go do the cable ride” but it was closed. Earlier we had seen the live camera at Eagle’s Nest back in Berchtesgaden, but we would have had to speed back to catch the last bus so opted to stay in St. Gilgen. That would have been awesome. It was a bit of a bummer but we all took it in stride and agreed seeing the sheep was very entertaining. We decided to head back to Berchtesgaden (did not go on to Hallstat) and drive the scenic Rossfeld Road. Since the skies had cleared, we got to take in beautiful views of snow-capped Alps on our drive “home”. We got back to our place and finally got to meet Ulrike, our host. She was as warm and friendly in person as I pictured. She spoke good English and pointed out that the Eagle’s Nest was just behind us. Sitting up high, we could actually see it from “our” yard—bummer we missed the view from the top.
We drove the Rossfeld Road pulling off to see beautiful views. The kids straddled the German/Austria border (snapped a pic). From there, we drove to the Hofbrauhous restaurant in Berchtesgaden.
See part 8
Austria/Germany May 2023 Part 8 (Vienna)
We spent 3 days in Budapst and took a train into Vienna:
The train ride to Vienna was easy. We stayed at the Vienna Marriott (used points). The hotel was wonderful. It was fancier than most Marriotts we’ve stayed in, feeling very European with many people speaking different languages checking in and the desk clerks swiching languages as needed. The hotel is right across from Stadtpark with its gold statue of Johann Strauss and beautiful green space.
We my brother and his wife (trips crossed over in Vienna for few days) at Figmullers on Backerstrasse for dinner. This was recommended by a friend who said I definitely needed to get reservations and the HUGE line outside told me he was right. There are 2 locations near each other, but I made reservations at this one since he told me it was the only one that served beer. We had a nice meal. We shared a serving of the white asparagus with potato and hollandaise sauce that people in Germany told us since it was in season while we were there. We walked around after dinner, seeing Opera House (skipped tour since just toured one in Budapest).
Sat 5/20: We dropped our daughter to airport to meet up with her group to start her next adventure! After that, we headed to Stadt Park. We stopped at the food stall right on the corner next to the flower mart and each bought a käsekrainer. My sister had told us to have one in her honor because she loved them when she studied here. We loved them too. They are basically a sausage that has chunks of cheese “kase” in it. They take a long, baguette type roll and cram it on a metal mold to hollow it out. Then they add your fixings, ketchup for me, and plop the end of the baguette back on. YUM. We sat in the park and ate them. While we were there, we looked talked about what we wanted to see. We decided to go up the north tower at the Cathedral today and then see Schoonn Palace tomorrow. We met my brother at St. Stephens and took the elevator up the north tower. There were nice views and we picked out a lot of sites thanks to the great picture map on the lookout. .
Dinner was outside at Bar Sole. It was so so nice sitting outside with lots of people sitting out enjoying their meals at the many eateries along this cute little cobblestoned lane. There were lots of different languages filling the air.. Just across the way from the restaurant we had great gelato .Again, we sat outside. The waiter was from Sicily, the gelato was heavenly. It is hard to believe tomorrow is our last full day in Europe. I planned for so long! It has been a great trip.
Sunday 5/21 Stephenplatz for 10;15 mass.We were able to be seated in a pew. The music was amazing. I am not sure if they have the music every week, but this mass was beautiful since there were strings, organs and beautiful voices. We were on left side of main aisle but, if we had been on the right and up farther toward the altar, we would have been able to see them up close.
My hubby loves clocks so went to little clock museum my brother knew about. It was actually a pretty walk to get to it. It’s 3 floors, very low key and interesting (once probably enough for me, but for any clock aficionado, it’s worth a trip.
https://www.wienmuseum.at/en/locations/uhrenmuseum (26 Euro for 3 seniors/ 1 adult)
From there, we went to Schonbrunn Palace.I had timed tickets (on line) for the Royal Tour. (about an hour ). The palace and museum tour was interesting. I liked that I could go at my own pace. It reminded me of touring the Newport mansions but 100 times bigger. After our tour, we wanted to see some of the gardents. There is a paid ticket to enter some of the gardens, but we skipped that and just walked through gardens behind the palace (fee). We walked past fountains, lilies, roses, lilacs, rhododendron along lots of paths with greenery arched on the top. Worth the heat for the views! see part 9
Austria/Germany May 2023 (Vienna part) Part 9
Back in Vienna, we ate outside at a place called Steak Tip (steak point). It was pricy, but delicious (we had the seasonal white asparagus again!) .
https://www.imperialtickets.com/en/schoenbrunn-palace/grand-tour-schoenbrunn-palace/ ($157 for 5)
https://www.steakpoint.at/
'
We took train to airport and spent night at the Moxy Hotel (Marriott property so used points). Flew out the next morning.
GREAT TRIP.
Final Observations:
People are friendly and want to help.
So many people speak English
White Asparagus is devine
Food Servers don’t set the table. They drop off the napkins and silverware and let you do the work
Dogs in Hungary are so well trained. They seem to walk beside their “person” without needing to wear a leash (even in the city)
The people on the RS Travel Forum were SO helpful
Sheep can be very loud
I like the mix of seeing sites in the city but spending time out in nature.
This was a great trip
I love my family
Thanks for the report on what you did in Vienna! Just to note, the Figlmueller is famous for one thing and one thing only - schnitzel. Did you not order the schnitzel? My upstairs neighbor is one of the St. Stephan’s soloists.
Nice trip report! You crammed a lot into your time in Austria and Germany. I've done Röthbach Falls, Wimbachklamm, and the Zauberwald walks/hikes in the Berchtesgaden area -- fantastic. Glad you had a great time and got to enjoy traveling with your family in such a special place.
Emily, LOL Yes we enjoyed the DELICIOUS schnitzel at the restaurant there too! It was our first night in Vienna and we met my brother and sister in law there so it was a wonderful reunion dinner in a lively atmosphere. Perfect first night meal in Vienna.
Please tell your neighbor that the mass with the music at St. Stephens was another highlight for my husband and me. Initially we thought about going to the Saturday vigil mass (in English) but thankfully realized we have the rest of our lives to hear mass in English. The music was sublime.
Dave, Berchtesgaden area was probably my fave. All the scenery and nature. We had poor weather so missed some of the sights. I loved our lodging there and the people were wonderful. I would love to go back again.
Love this report, thank you so much for providing all the great detail. We did Mondsee in 2013 on the RS GAS tour, if you saw the church you definitely saw the town’s highlight. I would dearly love to go back and see Austria and Germany as you did. Bookmarking this report for sure!