Trip Report: Florence and Rome, March 2025

Day 0 and 1 (Tuesday 11th March and Wednesday 12th March)

Getting there was a real slog and a combination of bad luck and a bit of poor planning by me. In retrospect, I would’ve had us fly into Florence.

We flew from our city to Atlanta, then ATL to FCO. Our flight from ATL to FCO boarded ok but once we were all seated the captain announced there was a mechanical issue and they were working to fix it. Delta was good about keeping us updated, but in the end we sat on the plane for 2.5 hours before it even started to push back from the gate. Upon arrival we sat for another hour before they brought buses to transport us to the gate. After 12 hours we were happy to get out of the plane! But now we had to find the Leonardo Express (easy, follow the signs), buy tickets (easy, use the app or ticket machine), and get to Termini (easy direct train that took about 30-40 minutes). When we arrived at Termini we had just enough time to grab coffee and sandwiches and board our train to Florence. This all took forever and in our sleepless and cranky state we were barely holding it together. If I had to do it over again I would’ve just booked a connecting flight to Florence from FCO and skipped dealing with 2 trains after dealing with 2 flights.

We arrived at Stazione di Santa Maria Novella and I was trying to find the tunnel to take us through the shopping mall and exit into the street. It looked so easy on the YouTube video! After being turned around a couple of times I found it and we emerged and walked in the rain to our hotel which wasn’t too far away.

We napped for an hour or two then it was late afternoon and we aimlessly wandered. We randomly stopped and had sandwiches at Fermentino Schiacciata e Dintorni and they were really good. https://maps.app.goo.gl/dwoDSm5rHXR4EwQHA

Day 2 (Thursday March 13th)

We were both still feeling exhausted and spacey so we didn’t get a super early start. After breakfast we visited the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella and then walked around Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza della Signoria and the surrounding streets. We passed by several of the hyped influencer instagram sandwich stops with long lines of selfie-stickers and went into the excellent and empty Antica Porchetteria Granieri 1916. The sandwiches here were delicious! https://maps.app.goo.gl/m8ckTqu7AgGg3rCe6

In the afternoon we visited the Duomo, Crypt, Baptistry, and Duomo Museum. It started to rain in the early evening so we were back at the room early-ish.

Day 3 (Friday March 14th)

We woke up to pouring rain. This day had the heaviest rain of our visit. We had Uffizi tickets booked for 8:15am so we had the hotel call a taxi who dropped us off right at the door. We spent about 3 hours here and both enjoyed it. It was not crowded at all and I liked the views of the Arno and Ponte Vecchip in the rain from the top floor.

We grabbed some random bakery pizzas for lunch and then walked back to the room where my husband decided he needed a nap, so I ventured out alone in the afternoon. I had nothing specific planned and it was still raining, so my first stop was a small cafe where I had coffee and a tiramisu. I then started randomly walking and ducked into two churches along the way - Basilica di Santa Trinita and Chiesa di San Salvatore in Ognissanti. The latter was especially interesting and in the rain and gloomy lighting the small square outside was very atmospheric. I then walked along the Arno stopping at each bridge and then took a break in the room to dry off before my husband and I went back out to wander and grab dinner.

Day 4 (Saturday March 15th)

We walked to The Accademia Gallery for our 8:15am booking and found about 20 people huddled around a sign announcing the museum would be closed until 2pm due to yesterday’s weather. We then walked to Museo di San Marco and their sign said they would be closed all day. Hmmm. And now it was starting to rain again so we wandered around Mercado Central for a little while before heading out again to Basilica di San Lorenzo.

We ate at Garbo Pizzeria which we both enjoyed https://maps.app.goo.gl/wj3NqsFhWtURgZz77

I was then attracted by the nearby Pompi cafe where I had an average pistachio tiramisu (this was definitely a touristy place) https://maps.app.goo.gl/9GENKqtQc9hdVApW7

We made it back to The Accademia Gallery at about 4pm to find utter mayhem. Everyone from earlier in the day was mixed in with everyone who had later tickets and it was very crowded. We didn’t spend much time here, but of course it was fun to see David.

We also stopped in at a little English language bookstore, Paperback Exchange https://maps.app.goo.gl/ujomJpgzBoJExfAG6 Nice selection of Italian authors translated to English.

Day 5 (Sunday March 16th)

We started the day by going to Museo di San Marco. This was one of my favorite places. So beautiful and peaceful. We then walked to the Ponte Vecchio and crossed over to find quiet, almost deserted streets. Maybe most people get to the bridge and then turn right back? I loved walking around this neighborhood. We had lunch at Schiaccia Passera which was fantastic. Highly recommend this little sandwich restaurant. https://maps.app.goo.gl/BaJy6KuezJgZ5tYY8

We then walked to Basilica di Santo Spirito which we both loved. The square outside the church was a nice place to sit and people watch. On the way back over the bridge we stopped at Gino’s Bakery where I had an espresso and an absolutely divine Nutella cannoli. https://maps.app.goo.gl/U2xxaGoftaLx9e4A8

Even though we were both exhausted by this point, we squeezed in a visit to Palazzo Vecchio. This attraction was objectively beautiful and interesting but I think we had both mentally hit a wall and were going through the motions. But we still had to eat. Too tired to decide on anything from my list, we went back to Garbo Pizzeria and it was even better this time. The owner was delightful and treated us to limoncello before we left.

Day 6 (Monday March 17th)

We visited Chiesa e Museo di Orsanmichele which is an incredibly ornate church and sculpture museum across the street. Even the exterior of this church is stunning. Next we walked to the Basilica of Santa Croce, making a brief pit stop to see the bronze boar. We may have saved the best for last because wow, Santa Croce was amazing. We loved this, as well as wandering the surrounding streets afterwards. We had dinner at a restaurant whose name I didn’t make note of and who appears on my credit card statement under a name that doesn’t match, so unfortunately I can’t recommend the restaurant where I ate the best pasta I had in Florence.

Day 7 (Tuesday March 18th)

We were leaving for Rome today. I had an hour or so before we needed to leave so I went for one last walk around Florence, mostly around the Duomo and surrounding streets, which by now felt very familiar. I got a bit nostalgic thinking about a 27 year old me walking these same steps so long ago, another lifetime ago. Boy, have I and the world changed.

Onto Rome! As soon as we arrived and exited Termini I had a big grin on my face. I wasn’t expecting to feel so happy to be back here. I guess I just really love Rome. The weather was mild and sunny and it wasn’t too crowded (except when we accidentally walked by the Trevi Fountain).

The afternoon was spent walking around places we didn’t see last time, like the Monti neighborhood. We went to two churches, Santa Maria Maggiore and Basilica of Santa Prassede. I loved loved loved the mosaics at Santa Prassede. I supposed I should incorporate Ravenna into a future trip because apparently ancient mosaics do it for me. We then walked to the Spanish Steps and Piazza Del Popolo and went inside Basilica Parrocchiale Santa Maria del Popolo to see the Carravagios. We had dinner at Dal Pollarolo 63 where I had a good carbonara https://maps.app.goo.gl/UXVseUuvt4GatpS89

We walked back to the hotel slowly and took the scenic route, again stopping at the Spanish Steps to people watch.

Day 8 (Wednesday March 19th)

We had breakfast pastries and coffee at Panificio Biscotteria Roscoli https://maps.app.goo.gl/N3LYWnqD6bS8Rus46 then decided to go revisit some of our favorites from last time. Everything looked familiar and I was smiling at everything. Turning the corner to see the Pantheon still took our breaths away. It’s just so amazing. Again, no crowds or lines, so we paid our 5 euros each and walked in. I remember saying to my husband how lucky to see this once in your life, but twice? We then walked to Piazza Navonna and somewhere in there stopped for pizza at Il Fornaia https://maps.app.goo.gl/AGLYJByWCt7JBWAz5 We sat on high tables enjoying watching both locals and tourists wander in. I didn’t want to leave, so I used that as an excuse to order coffee and a delicious Sfogliatelle pastry. It was so hard to decide. They had rows upon rows of tempting looking treats.

By now we were really far from our hotel, and it was our final few hours of our bonus Rome time, so we slowly walked in the general direction of the hotel, stopping and sitting every now and then, taking photos, just looking and being. A quick rest and freshen up at the hotel and we went to the Museum Barberini for the Caravaggio Exhibit https://caravaggio2025.barberinicorsini.org/en/ This was a wonderful and poignant last activity. The exhibit has its own separate entrance from the regular museum and consists of 4 rooms with about 30 pieces of artwork and lots of information about Caravaggio's life and career. There was a small gift shop at the end where I picked up some nice postcards and bookmarks. We took our time and spent about an hour. It was sort of crowded but not really if that makes sense. It’s such a popular exhibit and they seemed to allocate just enough tickets per timeslot so that it wasn’t completely packed.

So that was it! Early the next morning we walked to Termini to take the Leonardo Express back to the airport. Arrivederci Italy, until next time (Venice, I’m looking at you!)

Mary, thanks for a great trip report, especially the flights hints. It’s always good to know what works and what doesn’t.

Hi Mary, thank you for sharing your trip with us!

I’m glad you mentioned the Basilica of Santa Prassede in Rome. I tried to stop there last time, but it wasn’t open. I will be staying at the nearby Hotel Mecente Palace again before taking the train to the Puglia region. Hopefully I can see it this time since I love mosaics, too. And yes, go to Ravenna and also consider Sicily. I thoroughly enjoyed those I saw around Palermo (the rest of Sicily will be a future trip.)

I had been watching the heavy rainstorms around Florence while my daughter’s coworker was traveling in northern Italy while you were there, also. Very sad to see the flood damage!

Great report, thank you for sharing.

It’s been years since my trip to Rome but still recall a very early morning walk and seeing the Colosseum
in the distance. Took my breath away.

Thank you, Mary. We're planning on visiting Italy next year, and I do believe it's time to renew our acquaintance with Rome.

Thanks, Mary! Sorry about the rain in Florence, We missed the Florence-American cemetery due to a downpour (tour director's decision, I would have still wanted to stop). Gelato is the best. My daughter and I ate it most days for lunch when we were in Italy last year. We loved Santa Croce as well.
Isn't it fun how you discover new passions (like ancient mosaics?). Mine is bas reliefs.

Thank you for sharing! Loved both the recommendations for food and places to go, and the trip down memory lane for the museums and churches I've been in. Wonderful info.

Excellent trip report! I love Florence, especially Santa Croce, which is my favorite church. Also love Rome and I like how you described just “looking and being”. What a great way to experience the wonder that is Rome.

Sounds like a great trip and no sinus issues for your husband. I fell in love with Florence (and Venice) and look forward to getting to know Rome in 2026.

Thanks for this report! I, too, love Santa Croce! And my few days in Rome 10 years ago included none of these sights. Making notes. :)

Thanks, everyone.

Jean, the other cool thing about Basilica of Santa Prassede was that it was almost empty! Maybe because it's free and sort of tucked away, but it's such a hidden gem.

Our first visit to Florence was this past August. It really is a beautiful city and smaller than I imagined. Thanks for bring back nice memories.

Mary , thanks for the great trip report and a lovely trip to Florence and Rome. I love, love the museums and the churches in both cities. And the Caravaggios in the Roman churches are so breathtaking. I’m heading to Italy on Monday but not the big 3. I know I’ll see many wonderful churches in Bologna and Milan and other places and I’m sure I’ll also consume many lunch time gelatos!

Happy travels tomorrow, Lyndash! Hope you'll have time for a trip report (hint hint) :-)