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Trip Report: February/March in Rome, Salerno and Sicily

This was a short 2-week trip to fit the vacation time available to our daughter and son-in-law, who traveled with us. Two of us had been in Rome before, but the rest of the itinerary was new to all of us.

We knew we wanted to get out of town in February and like many of you, we thought we’d try someplace different this year.
Europe in February/March was a new experience! And we can report back that it can be a great time. Below are the Pros and Cons we came up with:

Itinerary: February 24 – March 10

3 nights in Rome,
3 nights in Salerno,
1 night back in Rome,
3 nights Ortygia Sicily,
2 nights Taormina Sicily,
2 nights Amsterdam

Pros:

  • Because it was still the quiet season, there wasn’t competition for the restaurants. We never made reservations.
  • Crowds were minimal and manageable, although if the Trevi Fountain is this crowded in February it must be completely nuts during the ‘busy season’. Easily booked tickets & tours for Vatican, Colosseum, Pompeii, etc.
  • Didn’t have to go back to our hotel to rest in the heat of the day, so total hours out and about might work out to the same as summer travel.
  • Didn’t need to pack sandals or multiple tops in case we sweated through two a day. Suitcase ended up the same weight as summer travel. Didn’t wilt while enjoying a 4-hour tour of Pompeii. Found out we actually like Rome when it’s not Hot, Humid and Overcrowded.
  • Delta Premium Select tickets were a fabulous price but the planes were surprisingly full.

Cons:

  • In Sicily some restaurants were still closed for the season and the tours for Mt Etna were limited.
  • Not beach or boating season even though the water was clear and calm. Definitely ate more Cannoli than Gelato. (Sorry Jean!) But everything was green and flowers were blooming.
  • Shorter days, and I’d think twice about going during the very darkest months. Stayed light until 6:00 or 6:30.
  • Packed a couple of coats, scarves, sweater, an umbrella, hat and gloves instead of sundresses. Didn’t need the hat or gloves. Hotels had umbrellas to borrow. One of us carried a bag or backpack to stash our layers when out for the day.
  • Limited selection of flight times compared to High Season. Meant we overnighted in Amsterdam to get a good flight home on Sunday.

Planes, Trains, and Taxis:

Flights: I wanted to warn folks that there were steps for all flights, which will be an unwelcome surprise for folks with limited mobility. Also, read on for our Ryanair and Transavia baggage experience. No-one at any of the airports had us take off shoes or show our liquids baggie. They did want coats off. Allowed bottles of water at all the European airports.

PDX to AMS, bulkhead seats in Premium Select. Nice to have the extra legroom but the noise and lights from the galley interfere with sleep. I still would probably choose this over the last row because of the extra space in front. Surprise in AMS: we had to walk down steps to exit the plane and get on a bus to the terminal. One passenger had a roll-on suitcase, large tote and a cane. Sometimes it’s OK to check your suitcase. AMS to FCO on KLM: Chose all 3 on one side and aisle of the other side. Wish we had done that for the Sicily flights.

FCO to CTA on Ryanair: Concourse at FCO looks new and very nice. Lots of shops. As stated previously by folks, security is VERY quick. We paid extra for priority boarding and two carry-ons, but by their measurements calculated that we would need to check our roll-on suitcases. However, when we went to the desk to check them, the Ryanair folks said our suitcases fit into the display thingy (which they really didn’t) and told us to carry them on. Surprise! Wish we could've gotten a refund for paying to check them! Plenty of leg room in the seats we paid a couple of dollars for. On arrival at Catania we had to exit the plane on stairs and then walk up 2 flights of stairs.

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Flights, cont.

CTA to AMS on Transavia: Catania concourse was extremely crowded and HOT. One little café. Had to go outside and walk up stairs to get on plane. I know Transavia is a budget airline, but we paid extra for everything including priority boarding. They check your ticket and tag the 1st 70 bags as being guaranteed allowed on board. However, the flight attendant took our tote bags out of the overhead where we’d placed them and shoved them really roughly trying to get them to fit in other bins that were full of suitcases (we had paid to check ours). Ended up putting our backpack and tote under the seats in front of us. No big deal normally. Just felt kind of wrong since we’d paid extra to bring them onboard. Plane was a Boeing 737, similar to Southwest, no leg room at all. Would not fly with them again if given a choice. I think the rough shoving was what really bugged me.

Return flight, AMS to PDX: walked from hotel, got checked in, boarding pass and through security in about 30 minutes. Delta Sky priority for check-in and right next to it, Sky Priority Security. LOTS of security that morning. Not sure if that is normal. AMS security patted us down and I saw them swab the inside of someone’s suitcase. Also at gate there was an additional security check asking if anyone had asked us to carry something on or if we had left our bags unattended. Just really a LOT of people with security --- probably 3 or 4 times what I would expect.

Taxis, Trains and Metro:

Because there were 4 of us, we often took a taxi to our timed entry visits in Rome and then walked back to our hotel. Booked Italo fast trains ahead of time to and from Salerno. Checked our bags at KiBags in Napoli Centrale before going to the Archeological Museum. Nice folks. Easy. Took Metro to the museum. Rather than overload everyone here with specifics, please ask if you would like more details about the trains or cost of taxis.

Hotels:

Rome: Hotel Barberini --- really nice breakfast with made to order omelets or eggs. 7:30 – 10:00. Nice view, super kind staff. Hotel was convenient. Room was hot. Would definitely stay there again.

Salerno: Holiday Guest House --- Angela, the owner, very nice. Breakfast was 8:30 – 10:00 which was too late for us so she arranged for us to go to the café across the street for a free pastry and coffee. Room was good. Would stay there again. Walked from train station, convenient location. Pension type up stairs. Cash for room tax.

Rome: Hotel Relais Monti. Pension type upstairs again, but someone at desk until 11:00 p.m. Walked from train station. Close to Colosseum. Did not have breakfast here.

Ortygia: Domus Mariae Albergo. Breakfast across the street not quite as fancy as Hotel Barberini but still really good. View of ocean from our room. Not sure if I would feel the need to pay extra for this hotel because the views are everywhere in town. But it was a nice room.

Taormina: Hotel Villa Paradiso --- Again, the views are everywhere, but this hotel has superior views over the Domus Mariae. Even in the breakfast room. Would definitely stay here again.

Amsterdam: CitizenM --- very funky high tech hotel. Room was like a camper or cruise ship. No wasted space. But super quiet, extra large comfortable bed. 10 minute walk to airport. Worked for us.

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”Definitely ate more Cannoli than Gelato. (Sorry Jean!) But everything was green and flowers were blooming.”

No worries! ; ) It’s not like you walked past Suso Gelato in Venice and decided on a pre-packaged pastry, instead! ; ) I’m looking forward to eating cannoli for five days in Palermo, too.

Thank you for sharing your Pros & Cons for your trip this time of the year!

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Restaurants:

Rome: ate twice a Pizza in Trevi. Good food, nice staff, great desserts. Seafood Risotto, Carbonara pizza, pudding with cookies in it. Mousse-lite cheesecake. lunch after Vatican at Be.Re. + Trapizzino. Little pizza triangles. Good!

Salerno: had a little trouble finding places that were serving dinner early so ate twice at Pizzium. Nice staff, good food. Also ate at A Sud. Really nice staff. Gave us several extras: prosecco, an appetizer, plus a little dessert and Limoncello. Great food.

Naples: Fried Pizza at Sorbillo’s.

Rome: al42 Pasta Chef

Sicily: I don’t remember what I saw…..I only remember what I ate. This is what the staff at our hotel in Rome said regarding his trip to Sicily. What a great slogan!!

Ortygia: The Sicilian Delights, Via Cavour 17. Arancini. Small place. Eat in or take out. Ate here twice. Spizzuliamu, via del Consiglio Reginale, 33. Had Fried sardines, Gnocchi al pistachio, Cacio E Pepe. Nice dinner at Wine & Restaurant S.R.L., via del Collegio, 13/15.

Taormina: possibly the best food we ate all trip at Villa Zuccarro Osteria. Every dish was exceptional, which is hard to do. Wine chosen by staff was really good. Mineral undertones. Very unusual. Nerello Mascalese. Ate up in Castelmola next to bus stop at Bar San Giorgio. Good Winter bean soup and red wine. Also ate at the Villa Zuccarro Pizza restaurant.

Random notes on the Food:

Tried Cannoli in Sicily. Liked the ones filled with Ricotta in Ortygia. Big! Too chilly for gelato so only ate it a few times. Lots of pizza with unique toppings, like Pumpkin cream and sausage (Salerno), Carbonera pizza. Got into the habit of ordering an Eggplant Parm to share as a first plate. That was a hit. Swordfish a few times. Lots of dishes with Pistachios in Sicily. Lots of gnocchi – squash/pumpkin or pistachio were common. Omelets and pastries for breakfast buffets were good. Cappuccinos were often not hot or strong enough for me. I would mix it with an Americano sometimes. Arancini were a great street food snack and huge, so they filled us up.

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Our Days:

Day 1 Rome: arrived at hotel about 1:00. Walked up to Spanish Steps and then the Piazza del Papallo for the view. Ate in the rooftop bar at the hotel.

Day 2 Rome: Vatican Garden tour at 9:30 was really nice. A gentle stroll, learning things that other tours don’t mention. Nice way to begin our trip. Included a tour of the Vatican Museums, leaving us off at the Sistine Chapel to visit on our own since there is no talking. No crowds. Nice! After lunch, we walked to St. Peter’s square, where there was a VERY long line to get through security. Longest line of the entire trip, airports included. They didn’t have very many stations open. By the time we got inside, we had to immediately buy tickets to get on the elevator up to the Duomo because it closed at 4:00. Walked back to hotel, via Ponte San Angelo & Castel walk from the Rome Map. Dinner at Pizza in Trevi.

Day 3 Rome: Colosseum Underground Tour at 10:30. Ate a late lunch nearby which took too much time since no one was actually hungry. Should have grabbed some street food, because Palatine Hill and Forum kicked us out at 4:00. Walked back to hotel via Parthenon and some other monuments. Just missed a HUGE thunderstorm and downpour. Had 6:30 reservations at Pizza in Trevi, but luckily the heaviest rain had stopped. Hotel let us borrow umbrellas.

Day 4 Rome and fast train to Salerno that evening: Borghese Gallery timed entrance at 9:00. Really nice, approachable museum. Did not have a tour, just wandered as we wanted. 2 hours was perfect. The Bernini sculptures were transcendent. Wandered around the gardens and back down into town. Went into the Parthenon and the Capuchin Crypts.

Day 5 Salerno: Train to Paestum where we met Silvia Braggio for a 3 hour private tour. Really enjoyed her tour. 3 hours was perfect. Didn’t feel rushed or bored. Ate some buffalo mozzarella sandwiches afterwards. Quiet town. LOVED Paestum. We've visited many Geek temples and these are simply amazing. GO! You won't regret it. (But also need to say that Sylvia made a HUGE difference) Pizzium for dinner.

Day 6 Salerno: Train to Pompeii for 4 hour private Mondo Guides tour. Pompeii is really big. We've been to Ostia Antica and Italica in Spain, but Pompeii is definitely different. We did the Pompeii Plus which got us into the Villa of Mysteries too. I can see why people go back for another day. A 2 hour tour would not be enough. Pretty crowded. Can’t imagine what it’s like in busy season. Back in Salerno, we visited the Duomo and walked along the waterfront. Pizzium for dinner.

Day 7 Salerno: Train to Naples. It was raining pretty hard so we took the metro to the MANN archeological museum LOTS of Pompeii and other great items including Farnese marble statues. Afterwards, wandered to famous Pizza street (which was BUSY) for fried pizza and then back to train station to Rome. Did not get to do the walking tour we had planned because of the rain and later start. Actually enjoyed Naples, but can see that it could be a bit much if hot or crowded. Back in Rome ate at al42 by Pasta Chef. Nice guy. Different concept. Carbonera was indeed very salty. Wandered to the Colosseum to see it lit up at night. Lots of folks had the same idea but Magical.

Day 8 Sicily: Flight to Catania on Ryanair went well. Walked out of airport and since the bus was late, got right on. Bus to Syracuse stops at a lot of spots in Syracuse so had to ask: Ortygia is the last stop, so don't panic. Did not see any taxis at bus station, so would need to arrange ahead of time probably. Walked to hotel. We had Arancini and Cannoli and skipped dinner.

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Day 9 Ortygia: After all the planned and timed entries/tours on the mainland, we wanted to slow things down once we arrived in Sicily. For some reason, I missed that most of the places we planned to see today were closed on Mondays, so we decided to skip Noto on Day 10 (Tuesday) and have an easy day today.

Day 10 Ortygia: Went to the Paulo Orsi Museum and the San Giovanni church and Catacombs. Took a taxi there and walked back to the hotel afterwards. Had planned to go to the Archeological Park in Syracuse today also, but they closed at 3:30, so we went Wednesday, which made for 3 nice relaxing days.

Day 11 Ortygia: Archeological Park, Theater and Ear of Dionysus. Evening Train to Taormina. Relaxing, pretty views of Mt. Etna on the left and the sea on the right. Took a taxi to the train station in Syracuse and then another one from station in Taormina to our hotel.

Day 12 Taormina: Theater and Castelmola. Territorial views. Gorgeous day. We took a taxi up and walked down. It was kind of steep but not difficult.

Day 13 Taormina: Cooking class with Chef Massimo for two of us. The others went up to Mt Etna. Private Transfer to Catania airport. 8:40 p.m. flight to Amsterdam.

Day 14 Amsterdam: Van Gogh Museum and the Anne Frank House. Timed entries for both of those. After that, we were all kind of tired and our brains were full, so we had a drink at a canal side café and people watched. Rode bus back to airport and ate dinner/snacks at hotel.

The trip was really fun. We got lucky with the weather --- it was supposed to rain most of the days, but it didn't. Yay! Salerno, Ortygia and Taormina were lovely and we appreciated that they weren't crowded.

So.....if you're thinking of traveling to these places in the off season, GO! You'll be glad you did.

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One more thing.....

We realized as we were walking back to our hotel in Ortygia that there is a small downside to traveling in the off-season or off-the-beaten-path locations. Perhaps it would be true of any of the quieter towns:

There really wasn't anyone else on those back lanes. Or maybe just a couple of folks out. Very different from Rome, Salerno or even Taormina. If I was travelling by myself, I would probably just eat my big meal during the day time and be back at my hotel earlier.

We never felt unsafe in any place. Just felt weird to be the only folks on the street.

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We spent a week on one of the back lanes in Ortigia and didn’t ever see many people, a few or none was the norm. Your trip report is so interesting due to when you traveled. We have been in London and Rome in the fall and also over the holidays. Timing of a trip does make a big difference!

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Thank you 🙏🏼 for a great detail trip report. Makes me want to convince my husband to do some late fall or winter travel. Had me at few or no people!

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That is so interesting Suki! Ortygia was just the right amount of locals during the day, but those side lanes sure are quiet! And yes, I always thought I needed to plan my Europe trips for the summer when the days were longer and 'more things are open'.

But now that we aren't tied to the school year for vacations and many sights require hard to book timed entries, it's nice to know there are options the rest of the year that will be a lot of fun!

And Jean, I think you will love Sicily. One of our taxi drivers in Syracusa was chatty and said, Tell all your American friends to come to Sicily. He said they really need the tourists for their economy.

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Luv2Travel, it really is worth looking into! A possible drawback is bad weather at your destination, but I kept telling myself a bunch of folks here reported back having rain in Italy in May last year. Which SHOULD be a perfect month!

And we find ourselves not wanting to leave our good weather at home during those Goldilocks months for camping, hiking, the lake, etc....

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7797 posts

Excellent trip report with all of the helpful details! I’m just getting a taste of Sicily soon with the five days in Palermo and may come back another time for all of Sicily. I appreciate your comments for solo travelers, too, if my husband didn’t want to come with me on that one. Bookmarking your post. : )

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I realized this morning when you were talking about your TR that I had missed this. I must have been mentally clocked out for March, lol! Anyway, loved your trip and your cannoli report, lol!! I'm glad Jean now has the low-down on that treat, haha!

Thank you so much for taking the time to post. You've included lots of valuable detail...which you know I like!

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Thank you for sharing your travel experience. We were in Rome last Christmas and New Year, the weather was perfect, felt like late fall in New England. Walked everywhere, no sweat. It seems like Sicily can be a good place to hang out for a week in the winter, are there enough places open to keep busy for 6-7 days?

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Yes, I think you would find plenty to do for 6 or 7 days. We did not have a car and had limited time, so we concentrated on the area we could easily reach from the Catania airport.

The Paulo Orsi Museum in Syracuse is wonderful and that along with the Archeological Park and Catacombs will fill a couple of days there. If you rent a car for a day, you could pop over to Noto, Ragusa, and/or Modica. If relying on public transportation, check the times carefully.

One thing that you might also do is check to see what flights are best for your days. What I mean by that is we found limited non-stop flights into and out of Palermo and Catania. If you must fly in on a Tuesday, for example, Palermo might have the best flights. And Catania might have the best flights on a Wednesday.

Just like with many other coasts, the closer we were to the actual water in Ortygia and Taormina, the wind made it feel colder. We definitely wanted our puffer jackets on those walks.

As to whether things will be open: if you mean during Christmas and New Years I am guessing yes. I looked at another travel forum while researching for our trip and there was quite a bit of information available from a couple of local posters. You might check there too. I will say that there were a lot of locals out walking in Ortygia and Taormina during the day while we were there.

Funny story: my husband was standing on a corner in Taormina waiting for us to finish with our cooking class and a group of older gentlemen came over. One was gesturing and talking in Italian animatedly. My husband had no idea what was going on. Finally one of them explained in English that it was their corner. My husband needed to go stand somewhere else. :)

I hope this helps. Enjoy!

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Thanks for such a great trip report!
It definitely brought back fond memories of my trip to Sicily back in 2018.

Funny story: my husband was standing on a corner in Taormina waiting for us to finish with our cooking class and a group of older gentlemen came over. One was gesturing and talking in Italian animatedly. My husband had no idea what was going on. Finally one of them explained in English that it was there corner. My husband needed to go stand somewhere else. :)

Your story reminded me of the morning I went to a Pasticeria/Gelateria in Piazza Armerina.
This is an excerpt from my trip report:

Sitting under a tree with beautiful burgundy foliage on the small piazza across from the pastry shop, an elderly man approached the bench, he greeted me and asked if he could sit.
He introduced himself as Angelo. After a couple of minutes another elderly man approached the bench and decided that there wasn’t enough room for him so he stood quietly by the bench. I presumed that this was “their” bench where they met every morning. Angelo and I moved a bit to make room and invited his friend to sit down.
Angelo proceeded to tell me that they were both widowers and had known each other for many years.
I noticed that Angelo was still wearing his wedding ring, a simple gold band. When I asked him about it, he said that he liked wearing it in memory of his late wife of nearly 60 years…

Can’t wait to go back to beautiful Sicily!

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Thanks OP, good info about flights, will look into flying to Palermo I'm thinking, as there's a lot to do there indoors in case of increment weather. Great reflections, so appreciated!