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Trip Report: England & Scotland (17 Nights) Part 1

Day 1–3: London

Coming back to our favorite city in the world after so many years felt a bit surreal in the best way. We started with the expected icons (old and new ) at the Tower of London and Sky Garden, but very quickly found ourselves seeking out the city’s more unusual corners.

One of the best early experiences was a guided walking tour with Look Up London. It was such a fun and refreshing way to experience the city. Instead of focusing on street level, it shifted attention upward to the architectural details you would normally walk right past. It turned central London into something like a scavenger hunt, revealing carvings, stories, and details we would have completely missed otherwise.

The waterbus from Westminster to Greenwich was another highlight. Gliding along the Thames past all the major landmarks gave everything a completely different perspective. Plus, who wouldn’t want to see where the Prime Meridian lives?

We also joined a Jack the Ripper tour in the East End and an East End Food Tour. Walking through Whitechapel and Spitalfields at night changed the entire feel of the area. It felt less like modern London and more like layers of history still pressing through and a total contrast to the fun & lively food tour during the day. It was truly fun to learn about all the different people who have shaped London’s East end food scene.

We also explored two of the most distinctive historic homes in the city thanks to suggestions on the RS travel forum:

Dennis Severs’ House
A fully immersive time-capsule experience where every room feels like someone has just stepped out mid-life. It’s unusual, quiet, and completely absorbing.

Benjamin Franklin House
We didn’t know how much time Ben Franklin had spent in London, truly a special thing to do on the eve of America 250.

In Shoreditch, we spent time following street art trails. Murals shifted from alley to alley, giving the sense that the neighborhood is constantly changing and redrawing itself.

We also stopped at The Attendant, a converted Victorian public toilet turned coffee shop. It sounds odd, but it’s clever, well done, and very London, so quirky in the best sense.

Day 4–5: Bristol

A short train ride brought us to Bristol, and it immediately felt more relaxed than London.

We joined a Bristol Street Art Tour, which gave great context to what we were seeing.

We also explored North Street and Southville, which ended up being a highlight in its own right. Independent cafés, small galleries, and a very easygoing atmosphere made it feel like we were briefly living in Bristol rather than just visiting. We are craft beer fans and really enjoyed the Lost & Grounded Taproom.

Day 6–9: York & Yorkshire Dales

York ended up being one of our favorite stops in Britain. It’s one of those places where history feels very present. We lost track of how many eras were represented here: Roman, Viking, Medieval, Victorian and much to our delight: modern.

The Shambles was great early in the morning but a bit crowded during the day, we preferred to spend time on Fossgate as there were many independent pubs and cafes. A visit to York Minster and the National Railway Museum were great, too.

We also did the Quirky Pubs & Crooked Streets Walking Tour, which was super cool. We wandered past leaning buildings, hidden lanes and tucked-away pubs that felt like the England we imagined.

Nearby, we visited:

Castle Howard
Absolutely breathtaking. The scale of the house is impressive, but the gardens are what really stand out. Felt like Bridgerton brought to life.

We spent one night in the Yorkshire Dales in Hawes and walked to the Green Dragon Pub in Hardraw, which was a lovely, simple experience (we had read that it is the pub that stands in for The Drovers in the show All Creatures Great and Small, which we adore!)

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Really appreciated your selections: we wish we could have another life, so we could visit all we missed!

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622 posts

Hi Deb,

Thanks for the trip report. I took some notes for our next trip to the Dales.

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787 posts

A nice trip report. When I read that about the All Creatures Great and Small pub, I thought wait a minute, isn’t that the pub in Grassington we went to? Looking it up showed that you are correct of course, but so am I, as the pub you went to was the Drovers interior but the Grassington one was the exterior. Fortunately they didn’t have to find yet a third pub for the loo, as far as I know.