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Trip Report, Camino Frances April-May, 2023

This was my 4th time to walk the Camino Frances, and my 2nd time to walk over the Pyrenees. Like last year, I booked all of my nights so that I could choose the best albergues as well as ones that had communal meals. A German friend came with me. She had walked the CF about 13 years ago. Some of the nights I booked were ins small pensions where we would have twin beds and private bath for a similar price to what a bed cost in an albergue. The communal meals were often very special and usually outstanding.

We took the train from Frankfurt to Bayonne, with changes in Paris and Bordeaux, then a friend from high school picked us up and drove us to Saint Jean Pied di Port. Checked into a lovely albergue that had single beds. The next day dawned with sprinkles awaiting us, and they followed us for the next 8km, stopping now and then for the sun to peek out. Got some great photos. By the time we got to Orisson, the fog was so thick you could only see about 20-30m. ahead. So much for the scenery of the Pyrennees. We had reservations at Borda which is a new albergue a bit past Orisson and had a lovely evening in single beds, womens' dorm with our our WC and shower. Great food, and the fog lifted so we got beautiful sunset photos. Sunrise was gorgeous and we finished our walk over the Pyrennees. These first 2 days are often walked in 1 day by a lot of people, but it would be too much for me.

Most of the 46 days were between 12-20km with mostly around 15-18 and a couple that were 22km.

I won't tell you about every place we stayed as that would be a bit much. That information is on a YouTube channel, called Camino for Everyone, which I made to help women, especially those of us who are seniors, plan their Caminos.
Most of the places I was quite happy with, but there were a few I probably would not stay in again. Uncomfortable mattresses, too few or too small shower facilities or simply in a town that I would skip to try staying in a different town. I would probably pick a few more private rooms too. It does kind of wear you down staying in the dorms after too many nights in a row, though you kind of get used to it after while.

There were a few sections that I had missed on previous Caminos, that I got to walk this time. Walking up to O'Cebrio (I rode a horse to this last year) and walking up to Cruz di Ferro. Both are quite high and I believe higher than the Pyrenees. It was strenuous, but the walk down was worse. Sort of like steep ravines filled with rocks, boulders and gravel. Whacked my head one day, on a tree hanging over the path.

Fortunately, I had gone to a fitness center for the 3 months prior and felt like I was in really good shape. No leg, feet, back or arm problems. No blisters either. Did get a cold and what may have been salmonella as was really sick for a few days. Because I had booked my rooms, this meant moving on by bus or taxi to the next town. This is the one drawback about booking ahead. Most of my places were reserved by email, but had about 9 nights done with booking dot com. There are some places that only use booking dot com, as they cannot be bothered with the man languages, and too many people have reserved a bed and then don't show up. Rather rude, so they have switched to the booking companies. I fully understand this.

2 places had pools but only went swimming in one of them. This was before my last day walking.

My pack weighed about 6.3kg, plus what ever amount of water I took with me. The weather was cool almost all the way so never felt the need to fill both my bottles starting out. (I use metal bottles as this keeps the water cool and better tasting) I was happy with everything I took with me. I did use a bag transfer service for a small bag I brought with me, to hold 2-3kg of stuff. Being 67, means I do not have to carry everything, every day, which I have done on earlier Caminos.

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9219 posts

Took a ton of photos with my new iphone 14 Pro and was thrilled with how they turned out.

Hand laundry is a given, though there were a few times I used a washer or had my laundry done. This costs about 3-5 € for a washer or they may do your clothing for you for 7 -10€. Use any kind of soap you like, shampoo, body wash, or a bar of soap. It doesn't really matter.

Meals ran about 13-15€ for the Menu del Dia or a Pilgrim meal for dinner. A few times I ate al carte, but often was so hungry, I ate everything they offered. Still lost about 3-4kg over the 46 days. Most days I grazed along the Camino, a croissant here, a choc. croissant there, a tortilla almost every day, or for breakfast toast. Dinner is anywhere from 18:30-20:00. Then you go to bed.

The albergues that had single beds, beds with curtains, beds with real linens, or real towels are always a favorite. There seemed to be more of them this time, rather than those with the disposable sheets. I carry a sleeping bag though, which I often used as just a blanket. Sleep wear is a nightgown. Every place had a pillow. Many had extra blankets to use, but not sure those get washed very often. Beds cost anywhere from 8-20€ in a dorm. Private rooms, ranged from 28-45€ for 2 beds.

Feel free to ask me any questions you like.

Posted by
2597 posts

Well done sounds like you had a great time.

I did it about ten years ago and it was a wonderful experience.

Posted by
350 posts

Congratulations! There is no better way to travel than walking! Well done!

Posted by
10599 posts

Congratulations on completing another Camino, and no injury this time! You are an inspiration. I suspect you are already thinking about your next one. 😉

I enjoyed your trip report and I encourage people who want to know more to check out the YouTube channel Jo referenced.

Posted by
3871 posts

Wow! Quite an amazing journey!
Thanks for your most interesting trip report; enjoyed reading it.
I will be going to "Camino for Everyone" on YouTube to take a look.
I am 69, and could not do this walk, but I wish I had done it when I was much younger.

Posted by
468 posts

That is a wonderful report on the Camino experience! I am planning on doing the whole Camino Portugues from Lisbon in 2025. 46 days sounds like a very comfortable pace for the Frances--I will have to do more like 30 for the Portugues, though it is shorter too. Did you do the whole Camino four times? Buen Camino!

Posted by
1321 posts

It was inspiring to follow along with your blog and YouTube videos.
With this post I hope that a lot more people can benefit from your sharing your experience.
And congratulations Jo!

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2248 posts

You inspire me. I will be checking out your youtube video.

So very glad that you responded to one of my discussions.

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9219 posts

Rebecca, one of my friends does a slow stroll tour to Santiago from Sarria. They spend 10-12 days walking the 110km. She only takes women in very small groups, (5-10) with shared private rooms and bath. Perhaps this is something you could do? You only walk about 10km per day, which is very easy to do.

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2766 posts

I love the way the postings on your channel capture the moment-to-moment changes in feeling as the days went on -- reminds me of a lot of social psych experiments where they measure mood in real time and compare it to later interviews.

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10188 posts

Thanks for this report, Jo, this sounds like a fabulous endeavor. I am excited to check out your You Tube channel. How incredible that you have made these resources available!

Posted by
995 posts

Jo, thanks for all your posts! Always helpful. Brava for another successful Camino! Could you pm me your friend Rebecca's info, please.

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17418 posts

Thank you, Jo, for your inspiring trip report.

I am amazed that you carried on despite the bout with salmonella—-I contracted that once and could not get out of bed for several days.

My husband and I enjoy challenging long-distance walking, but the dorms and shared bathrooms would be a deal-breaker for him. Maybe we could find accommodation in pensions with private rooms? I have also read that there are some sections of walking along a busy road. Can these be avoided—-or skipped?

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9219 posts

Lola, there are tons of private rooms, either in pensions or the albergues often have them too.
There is some road walking, but often it is just for a short while, like 5-10 min. ?

My friend who does the tours is named Carol and her tours are Camino Confidence. https://caminoconfidence.com/

Posted by
2267 posts

Thanks for the trip report! I'm excited to do just 5 days from Sarria in September. (I look forward to doing full-lengths, but for now, 30+ days of walking is an unattainable timespan.

A spoken pronunciation side note because of a pet-peeve: The 'Camino Frances' is the route from France, not Francis' route. So it's pronounced 'Franthes' or 'Fransess'. It should never sound like the name of the patron saint of animals- the dude from Asissi. (This crime is committed by 99% of anglophone YouTubers talking about the Camino.)