This series of trip reports is based on travel during April/May 2024
An uneventful trip across the Atlantic to Geneva put us in town bright and early. We decided to get our One-Month GA Travelcard first thing, right there at the SBB office in Geneva airport. From there we headed to our hotel for a bag drop (knew we wouldn't get into our room), before setting out on foot for a slightly religious-themed morning. We started with the very well-organized and well-curated Museum of the Reformation before continuing into Geneva Cathedral. The museum especially helped us better understand the role of Geneva as the "Protestant Rome." It also set the stage for visiting the Reformation Wall, a quite beautiful monument to the Reformation Movement, built in 1909. Not only does the style and aesthetics reflect early Art Deco, but the Wall devotes a significant space to American history milestones like Roger Williams and the Mayflower Compact. Lunch fell into our laps in the form of delicious Turkish cuisine at the highly-rated Meyhane restaurant. We were lucky to snag a table at the quickly-filling spot, and the food made it clear why it has a following. After some downtime back at our room at the Novetel Centre, we set out for the Scandanvian-inspired fare at Fiskebar, a Michelin-recommended restaurant overlooking the lake. While a huge splurge including the world-famous Gillardeau oysters, it was definitely worth it, particularly as a celebratory first meal. Having said that, we couldn't eat that way every night!
The next morning was sunny and warm. We took the train to Morges on Lake Geneva, where they were holding their colorful tulip festival in the town's Parc de L'independance. The compact park was filled with pretty tulip arrangements, all against the backdrop of Lake Geneva and the Alps behind them. After our fill of photography, we headed back along the lake to Nyon in order to connect with the ferry to Yvoire. I had read a lot of negative "tourist trap" comments about Yvoire, and honestly, I could see how it would be miserable in peak season. But this was April, and the main thoroughfares were quaint without the crowds. We had lunch on the rooftop of Les Jardins du Leman, which provided sweeping views of the castle and lake. Absolutely incredible and a nice lunch of local fish to boot. Having splurged the night before we opted to scale back on that night's dinner with an in-room picnic from the Manor department store market.
We relocated next to Aix-les-Baines, for a three night stay. (Also from this point on, we were using apartment rentals). Aix-les-Baines is an ultimate Belle Epoche enclave, with the era's architectural beauty on display at every turn. One of our favorite meals in town was the little Le Rigadin, a cozy affair with terrific plates. The next day we set out for Grenoble, although our ultimate destination was Voiron. But first, we headed up (read: stairs involved) to the Musée dauphinois, a local history museum set in a former convent. A few months ago they inaugurated "Alpins: 7000 ans d'histoires," and it is a fantastic exhibit. If you want a glimpse into Alpine life, this is a terrific, bilingual opportunity. We then continued on to Voiron, where we enjoyed lunch at the Michelin recommended Brasserie Chavant. It was an outstanding meal, including some of the best rabbit I've ever savored.