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Trip Report: 8 Night Mother-Daughter Trip to London

I’ve used headings and bold font to highlight main attractions so you can skip to whatever interests you in this lengthy report.

Some background: As some of you know, we had to cancel a three-week trip we had planned for this past June to Greece and the Netherlands with our daughter due to some sudden health issues that took a while to resolve. Rescheduling that trip was not possible, but I wanted to use some of our flight credit with United to do a trip with my daughter before her return to work in a preschool the last week of August. Since we only had about eight nights to work with and we both love big cities, London was a logical choice.

We spent a week in London in 1999, so we have been to many of the top sites: Westminster Abbey, The Churchill War Rooms, British Museum, Tower of London, British Library, Windsor Palace, etc. Since my husband, who loves history, could not go with us due to other commitments, I decided to focus primarily on sites that I knew would be of interest to my daughter, but less likely to be my husband’s top priorities. My daughter has mild to moderate intellectual disabilities, but is interested in many things when they are presented in an interesting way. For this trip, we focused on modern movies/TV (Harry Potter and Ted Lasso), and a history theme related to Henry VIII and his six wives. This worked well. I’ll report day by day, as I always find it interesting to see what others can accomplish in a day.

Planning: I used the RS London Guide book, trip reports and topics from the forum, and various websites to research the trip. Thanks to Nigel, Mardee, Claudia, CWSocial, and many others for your forum posts that helped me to plan. For each day, I tried to plan some flexibility. My daughter is not in great physical shape, and I’m coming off some serious joint issues, but as you will see, neither of these ended up limiting our trip. We walked a lot, and used the tube and trains.

Hotel: After reviewing our plans, the Premier Inn County Hall seemed like an ideal location.Thanks to all who have reported on Premier Inn experiences. We never spend much time in our rooms, so the lack of charm was not a factor in our selection. It worked out very well. I booked a Premier Plus room because I like to have a refrigerator for cold drinks and my morning yogurt. Pros: The most important to me were the great location with easy access to either Waterloo or Westminster stations, comfortable bed, enough elevators that we never had to wait more than a few seconds, and a very quiet room on the sixth floor. I am very sensitive to noise, and this one of the quietest stays I’ve ever had. The air conditioning was also essential, as daytime temperatures climbed into the low to mid 80s the first few days. I also appreciated the room-darkening curtains, tea kettle, large towels, outlets on both sides of the bed, and good lighting. A bonus was our view of the London Eye from our window. And for London, the price was good. Cons: The only real con for me was the lack of shelves for storing our packing cubes. It was somewhat inconvenient to juggle our suitcases to get out clothing, but not a big problem. There is an area for hanging some clothing, and a few hangers, and I had packed 4 folding hangers, which we did need to use. I did some sink washing, and the hotel recommended a laundry service, which I did use once (Laundry Heap).

Weather: We had ideal weather, with a mix of sunny, partly sunny, and cloudy days, with high temperatures from 70 to about 84 Fahrenheit. Not a drop of rain.

To be continued day by day.

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Day One–Thursday August 14: Arrival, Westminster Walk, National Gallery

We arrived at 10:30 am on a United flight from SFO after learning that we were rescheduled on a later flight as we were on our way to SFO. We were only three hours later than originally scheduled, and we were given aisle seats across from each other, so it all worked out. It took a while to get out of the airport, and then there was a problem on the Elizabeth line, so we didn’t arrive at the Premier Inn County Hall until about 1 pm. On our way from Waterloo station to the hotel, we stopped at Gail’s Bakery for a snack to take to our room. Since I expected to arrive much earlier, I’d paid a small fee for early check-in, so our room was ready.

After a brief stop, we were off to our first activity–the Westminster walk in the RS Guidebook. The walk doesn’t take more than an hour or so, which allowed us time to drop into the National Gallery for a very brief visit. I had identified in advance just a few things I wanted to be sure to see: two Vermeer paintings (in room 16 Dutch Masters), The Execution of Lady Jane Grey to tie in with our Tower of London visit (room 38, an amazing painting) and room 41 (Impressionists). In the Dutch Masters room, I especially liked a painting by Pieter de Hooch: The Courtyard of a House in Delft. We were both very tired, so we didn’t linger to see all of the Impressionist paintings.

I had made a reservation for a 5:30 dinner at Dishoom Covent Garden. We had a delicious dinner, with excellent non-alcoholic drinks. My daughter doesn’t drink, and it’s best to avoid alcohol with a medication I’m taking right now, so interesting non-alcoholic options were much appreciated during our trip. We stopped for ice cream at Amorino Gelato (fantastic), and walked back to our room for an early, and surprisingly good, night’s sleep. Despite my efforts not to overdo it, we walked about 6.6 miles.

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Day Two–Friday August 15: Tower of London, Borough Market, and Bankside Walk

After a light breakfast at the Gail’s Bakery just a block from our hotel, we headed to the Tower of London for our 9:30 timed entry. After picking up an audio guide and figuring out our plan, we headed for the Crown Jewels (no line at 9:55), which we had seen when my daughter was 15. I’m not that into such things, but my daughter loved it. Then we took the Yeoman Warder tour (very entertaining for both of us), and visited the first floor of The White Tower to see Henry VIII’s armor. I chose the Tower to fit in with our plans to see the musical Six and to visit Hampton Court Palace later in the trip.

A little before 1:00 we headed to Borough Market. I was hoping it wouldn’t be too crowded and that we could sample some foods from the various shops and stalls, but I knew that might not work out. Fortunately, I had made a reservation at Fish! for 1:30 as a backup. As I had feared, Borough Market was very crowded, so we headed to Fish! Since this was one of the hotter days and we were both pretty tired, a relaxing lunch at a table under an umbrella in their outdoor dining area worked well. After lunch, we shared an amazing crème brûlée donut at Bread Ahead in the market. Best donut ever–thanks to Mardee for that recommendation.
We spent the rest of the afternoon taking the Rick Steves Bankside walk and continuing on the Jubilee walkway back to the hotel. We especially enjoyed a stop at Southwark Cathedral, where a youth concert was ending. My daughter likes Shakespeare plays and is interested in Shakespeare, so she enjoyed the Shakespeare statue and window and wanted to find the marker for his brother, who is buried at the Cathedral. The John Harvard Chapel was another interesting stop in the cathedral.
By the end of the walk, we were both very tired and achy, so we rested in our room for an hour or so and then went to dinner at the Wagamama near our hotel. The pad thai and ramen were good. We ended up walking 8 miles.

Day Three–Saturday August 16: Harry Potter in the City Tour, Six the Musical
We slept a bit late, and since we had a London Walk scheduled from 11-1 and lunch would be late, we had a full breakfast at the hotel. It was only ok, as others on the forum have noted, and we decided it was not worth repeating. After breakfast, we headed to our scheduled London Walks Harry Potter in the City. It began near the Bank Station, visited several sites, including Leadenhall and Borough Markets for locations used for the Leaky Cauldron, and ended at the Globe Theater. The guide also pointed out sites for other movies, especially Bridget Jones’ Diary, a movie I don’t particularly like, so that didn’t add anything for me! This walk for me was only okay. The guide was fine, but the sites are so spread out that it doesn’t make for a great experience. The best part was the sites in Leadenhall market. My daughter enjoyed it, although I think there were other things we could have done that she would have enjoyed just as much.
By the time we finished the walk we needed to find a spot for lunch and a break, so we stopped at a Pizza Express. The pizza was adequate and we enjoyed the break. I did wish I had realized that there was an upper level with a river view.
We walked back to the hotel via the very lively Jubilee Walkway, rested for a while, and then took the tube to The Blackfriar pub, which is gorgeous. The food was good, and it was worth it to see the beautiful interior. Then we headed over to the Vaudeville Theater, where we had tickets to see the musical Six. We both enjoyed the play, although I wish I could have distinguished more of the words to the songs. We were glad we had visited the Tower of London so my daughter had some context for two of the wives–Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard.

We ended the day with 6.6 miles.

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Day 4–Sunday August 17: Kew Gardens and Ted Lasso Tour

This was one of my favorite days. We arrived at Kew Gardens’ Victoria Gate at 10:15 on this warm and sunny day. For some reason (I think I mistyped my email address), the email with my tickets never arrived, but I had taken a screen shot of the confirmation and that was accepted by the very kind people working at the gates. I tried to limit our walking (you will see later that I was not very successful, ha!), and prioritized the Palm House, Treetop Walkway, Lake Crossing, Princess of Wales Conservatory, and Carbon Garden. We stopped for many short (2-3 minute) rests on benches in the park. In fact, I’ve never stopped at so many benches in my life. Fortunately there are a lot of benches, so even on a fairly crowded Sunday we were able to find plenty of places to sit.

We exited through the Elizabeth Gate for our reserved Sunday roast at The Botanist on the Green. This was a lovely spot and we enjoyed our lunch. After lunch, we reentered the Gardens and walked slowly back to Victoria Gate and the main shop via the Great Broad Walk Borders. We left the gardens at about 2:45, having seen a beautiful sample of all that the gardens offer. We definitely need to return for a full day sometime, as we missed well over half of the extensive gardens.
We hopped on the District Line and went 1 stop to Richmond Station, where we met Emmy, our guide for our Ted Lasso tour. There were about 19 people on the tour, most from the U.S., but several from England. The tour was a lot of fun–the best of the three walking tours during our trip. Emmy is very enthusiastic and knowledgeable, Richmond is lovely, and the Ted Lasso sites are clustered so that you see many sites during the two-hour tour. There is even a “loo break,” and many participants took advantage of the quick stop. During the tour, we had passed Tapas Brindisa, and decided to go there for dinner. It was delicious, and I’d happily return.

I’d be tempted to stay in Richmond for 2-3 nights if I ever have the opportunity, so we could visit Richmond Park, return to Kew Gardens, and just roam around. This was our biggest day for walking. Despite the many garden benches we visited, we walked 9.2 miles. We were tired, but getting used to walking and feeling good.

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Day Five–Monday August 18: River Cruise and Warner Brothers Harry Potter Studio

We had picked up some Greek yogurt and fruit from an M&S Food Hall, and from here on I ran out for fresh pastries from Gail’s each morning and we ate breakfast in the room. I wanted to save our energy for our evening tour of the Harry Potter studios, so we decided to take the Thames River Cruise from Waterloo/London Eye pier to Tower Bridge. Since we enjoyed it and our ticket allowed us to return as well, we returned to Westminster Pier, and then headed back to Dishoom Covent Garden for lunch, which was just as delicious as our dinner the previous Friday.

We went back to our hotel for a rest before leaving at about 3:30 for our 5:30 Harry Potter Studio Tour. Because this was a bit of a last minute trip, 5:30 was the earliest slot I could get. They are open until 10, so we ended up with almost enough time. It seems everywhere we went we would have enjoyed another half hour or so, but I have no regrets about our plans.
Despite Mardee’s warnings in her trip report, I was overwhelmed in Euston Station and made the same mistake and got on the slow train from Euston Station to Watford Junction. Fortunately, a bus to the studio was waiting when we got to Watford Junction, and we arrived at the studio a few minutes before our entry time. We enjoy Harry Potter, but I would not say we are superfans. Nevertheless, we both LOVED this experience. The highlights for me were the Great Hall and Dumbledore’s Office, but it was all very entertaining. In addition to awesome sets, costumes, and props, there is fascinating information about how the films were made. We had a light dinner at the Backlot Cafe, where we had to have some Butterbeer in our souvenir mugs. After a quick stop in the shop for a few souvenirs for my grandsons and my daughter’s boyfriend, we caught the next to last shuttle bus back to Watford Junction.

We only walked 5.7 miles this day.

Day 6–Tuesday August 19: London Walks Mayfair Walk, Kensington Gardens & Hyde Park, Afternoon Tea, and MJ: The Musical

This was another favorite day for me. We began with the Walks of London’s 10:45 Mayfair Walk. This activity was my choice, and I enjoyed it. My daughter said it was “interesting.” After the walk we stopped for lunch at one of the first places we found with pleasant outdoor seating–the Spaghetti Cafe near the Bond St tube station. Our drinks and pizza were surprisingly good.

After lunch, we hopped on the Central Line to Queensway. We spent most of the afternoon wandering through Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. The highlights were an exhibit at the South Serpentine Gallery, the Serpentine Pavilion, and the Princess Diana Fountain.

We had reservations for afternoon tea at The Wolesley at 5:45, where the food and service were excellent. They offered to bring more food, but we couldn’t even finish the first round. Then we were off to the Prince Edward Theatre to see MJ: The Musical. My daughter was in heaven through the entire performance, and I loved it too. I was impressed to learn that Christopher Wheeldon, the well-known ballet choreographer, choreographed MJ. Just a few months ago I saw one of his ballets performed by San Francisco Ballet, so I’m completely impressed by his versatility.

This was another 9 mile day.

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Day 7–Wednesday August 20: Hampton Court Palace, Sky Garden, Ottolenghi Spitalfields

Continuing our Henry VIII theme, we arrived at Hampton Court Palace at about 10:30. We focused on Henry VIII’s state apartments, his Royal Chapel, and the kitchens, and had a wonderful time. My husband and I recently finished Season 2 of Wolf Hall, so I was fascinated by the Council Chamber where Henry VIII met with Thomas Cromwell and other members of the Privy Council and various filming locations such as the Great Hall. Our lunch of sandwiches at the Tiltyard Cafe was our worst meal of the trip, but that didn’t dampen our enthusiasm for the Palace and desire to return and learn more about Tudor life and visit the Georgian exhibits. The weather wasn’t very nice at the time, so we did not spend a lot of time in the gardens. However, the sun began to come out and I had 3:45 free reservations at Sky Gardens, so we left the Palace around 2:30. While Sky Gardens was pleasant and I enjoyed the views, it was crowded, and we agreed that we wished we had stayed longer at the Palace to see more of the exhibits and gardens there.

We ended the day with a delicious dinner at Ottolenghi Spitalfields. I might need to buy one of Ottolenghi’s cookbooks–my friends say they’re excellent. We walked 8.9 miles today, and hardly noticed it.

Day 8–Thursday August 21: Victoria and Albert Museum
I had left our last day mostly unplanned, with a list of options, so we could choose whatever we felt like doing. I really wanted to visit a museum for at least a few hours, and my daughter agreed, as long as it was only one museum. I explained that my preference, the Victoria & Albert, is huge, but I agreed we could leave after a few hours if she was bored or we got tired. That was never a problem: we arrived at 10:30 and stayed until 5:20. We did part of their highlights trail (stopping whenever we saw something else that amazed us), joined an excellent two-hour fashion tour (which focused on fashion in the 18th and 19th centuries) and chatted afterward with the guide, who was very interested in talking to my daughter and walked us to the cafe to point out the best place to eat.. After lunch, we visited the theater section (a big success), had some tea and shared a piece of cake, and visited the shop and Japan room.

Then we headed to our dinner reservation at Champor-Champor, a Thai-Malay restaurant near the Shard and recommended by forum friend CWSocial. We loved the food, and the waiter helped us choose a mixture of spicy (for me) and less spicy (for my daughter) foods. We had a conversation with the waiter about our amazing dessert of Tom Yum brûlée and how to explain it to customers who’ve never had Tom Yum soup (which I love). Their twist on creme brûlée is to add some lemongrass and lime, and then just a hint of spice to the brûlée on top. My daughter and I both thought it was delicious!
Today we only walked 7 miles.

Day 9--Friday August 22: Fly Home

Our trip home on United was uneventful. We had a wonderful time, and can’t wait to return with my husband to see some new sites and return to others. On the list for next time: Imperial War Museum, London Walks’ The Blitz and London Walks’ Shakespeare, Bletchley Park, the Wallace Collection, the Benjamin Franklin House, more plays, and returns to the National Gallery, V&A, Richmond/Kew Gardens, and more. . .

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10968 posts

This is a beautifully written report. And you planned so carefully and wisely for enjoyment for both you and your daughter.

What you have taken the time to write here will really be helpful for so many people planning trips to London in the future.

Hope your daughter is having a great return to work this week ! So glad you were able to fit this in before the school year and were happy with your hotel too.

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1572 posts

Thanks for a great report! I really enjoyed reading it. I guess it reflects the great experience you and your daughter shared. You really packed in a lot! Those are memories that you and your daughter will always have.

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3374 posts

Barbara N, thank you for posting a great trip report. So glad you and your daughter had travel time together.
Six is a great play. I saw it three years ago, after seeing the Tower of London in the morning and the night before we went to Hampton Court. The all add context to each other.
Isn't it amazing how the walking miles add up when you're sightseeing!

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10160 posts

Barbara, I can’t tell you how much I loved your trip report! I read every single word. It sounds like you had such a wonderful time and I’m very impressed at how many miles you both walked!

I’m also thrilled that you got one of those crème brûlée donuts. I am salivating just thinking about it now. And I’m also sorry that you made the same mistake I did and got on the slow train to the Harry Potter studio tour. But I’m glad it worked out. I think that happens often and they probably have more buses because of that, lol!

And you have given me a restaurant to try for my next trip. The Champor-Champor restaurant that CW recommended and that you enjoyed sounds like heaven! I love Tom Yum soup so I can’t wait to try this place!

I’m also glad you liked the PI County hall. I did enjoy my stay there. In fact I think we were on the same floor as all the Premier Plus rooms are on the sixth floor I believe. And I definitely remember Gail’s. I just love that place. I wish I had one a block away from my house in Duluth. I would be there every day. :-)

Anyway, thanks for the great report. It brought back some wonderful memories for me!

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This is one of my very few replies as I'm a big lurker and read so many threads without commenting. I've also gotten lots of good travel/location info from all of you lovely folks. We visited London for the first time in April and did many of the same things as you and your daughter. Such a well-written report. We can't wait to go back (and we will since our daughter is moving there next month.) And, that crème brulee doughnut was so good! I would definitely get another!

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This is a great Trip Report, I'll be in London next year, in early May, taking the RS Best of London tour and then on my own for a week. Looks like you did a great job getting to lots of places and having a lovely time with your daughter.

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3810 posts

Enjoyed your report, you did a great job planning on short notice and accomplished a lot, without over-doing it!

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3147 posts

Great report. I agree about wanting to spend a couple of nights in Richmond.