Trip Report: 6 nights in Budapest (May 2025)

Day 1 - arrival day

We landed at Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport at around 4:30pm, which was another anomaly for us as we usually arrive in the morning. I liked the late afternoon arrival better, although this meant leaving home in the evening, which my husband kind of hated (“hanging around all day waiting when I just want to get going and get the flights over with”). In any case, we were both cranky and dazed by the time we got here so my memory of the arrival consists almost entirely of the 100E Airport Bus. Isn’t it nice when something works out exactly like your research says it will? We each bought a ticket on the app, followed the signs to the bus and with the ticket pulled up on the app you just click “validate” and scan the QR code on the outside of the bus door. In case you’re me and completely forget this last part despite reading about it/watching it on YouTube umpteen times, there was an employee at the bus door assisting.

We got off the bus at the Deák Ferenc tér bus stop and as I tend to do on these trips, I stood on the sidewalk looking around with wide eyes and a goofy “I’m here!” look on my face. I absolutely love this moment of every trip when all the planning and research and flying is suddenly done and I’m just there. My husband, meanwhile, was also there but he didn’t know it because he was Google Mapping directions to our hotel: K&K Hotel Opera. It’s one of the main hotels mentioned on the forum often and I think is also in Rick’s book. The location is pretty perfect. No complaints. It was clean and met our needs and the breakfast was ample and continuously replenished, which was impressive because the breakfast room was a display of amusing chaos that we came to really look forward to.

That first night was spent in a cycle of sleeping and waking, and by 5am I gave up and found myself in the bathroom wondering why there were heated tiles and how on earth to switch them off? I don’t believe I found the button until the next day, which brings us to…

Day 2

After breakfast we wandered outside and admired the Opera House, making our way to the general direction of the Parliament building, sort of doing Rick’s Leopold Town Walk. One of the first buildings that caught my eye was the Postal Savings Bank. It was to become a theme during the trip to be struck by the architecture in this city. One thing to remember in Budapest is to always look up because the buildings are often unusual, unexpected, and quite beautiful.

After walking around Liberty Square we arrived at the striking Parliament building, which was a little surreal to see in person at last. Over the last couple of years it had become one of those things I saw way too many times in videos and pictures so that in a way I almost felt like I’d already been there. I love my YouTube travel videos, but I think I need to watch a little less so there’s some mystery left. My husband will never read this trip report (“Why? I was there. I know what we did”), so I can admit here that he was right to refuse to watch most of the Budapest videos with me (“I want to be surprised. I’ll see it in person soon”). By the way, he also hasn’t looked at trip photos yet (“I was just there. I can still remember what I saw”).

From here we walked down the stairs to the riverbank and across to the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial, then back up towards St. Stephen's Basilica. To purchase tickets turn right (while facing the basilica) and cross the road to the ticket office. The interior was beautiful and 90% of the people inside were crowded around the mummified hand of, you guessed it, St. Stephen.

We then walked around without a plan for a while until I realized we were near Café Gerbeaud https://maps.app.goo.gl/aPPvEP9imDAaxGZz6 so we stopped for a break and I had a delicious Gerbeaud Slice.

By now it was late afternoon so we walked back to the room for a rest and freshen up and headed to dinner around the corner from our hotel at Pörc & Prézli Étterem https://maps.app.goo.gl/CAyiEuyUXLeTW1Zf9 . I had Chicken Paprikash and my husband had Viennese Schnitzel. Both dishes were delicious! The owner (?) came by with free Palinka and chatted to us before we left.

Day 3

Today we walked across the Széchenyi Chain Bridge and jumped on the funicular to go up to Buda Castle - yes, touristy and overpriced, but we didn’t mind. We walked the grounds around the castle and then made our way to Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion. This area was by far the most crowded of our whole trip, but still not too bad at all. The views from Fisherman's Bastion are beautiful and Matthias Church was impressive.

We then walked around the quiet streets in this area, stopping in at Dani's English Bookshop, https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ljm3JKkouX9UDrwbA, which is really tiny. We walked into what is essentially a closet of books and were startled by the “hello” that emerged from behind a stack in a corner. I craned my neck and saw a man sitting behind the stack, seemingly as surprised to see us as we were him. We might have inadvertently woken him from a nap.

We spent an hour or two just wandering this area, having lunch, and enjoying how quiet it was. It didn’t seem like many people ventured beyond the Fisherman’s Bastion area, which is a shame. This area is just so quaint and scenic. I especially liked seeing the ruins of the Church of Saint Mary Magdalene. We thought we might as well go back down with the funicular (tickets include a return trip) and found ourselves riding with a couple from Queensland, Australia and a flying insect of some kind so that I spent the entire ride dodging it and watching the couple swat it away instead of admiring the view.

We walked back over the bridge and visited Bestsellers bookshop https://maps.app.goo.gl/zadQTe9CuQWzCcbg8 They have a great selection of English translations of Hungarian authors and my husband bought a book by one of his favorites, László Krasznahorkai. They also had all English translations (so far) of my favorite Hungarian novelist, Magda Szabó.

Day 4

It was raining this morning so we took the metro to the Museum of Fine Arts. What a gem this was! The building is simply beautiful and the collection was lovely. We ate lunch in the museum cafe, then walked outside to see that the rain had stopped so we wandered around Heroes' Square and City Park until it started to rain again.

We went back on the metro for a couple of stops to the House of Terror Museum. I thought this museum was really well done and fascinating. My husband (remember he wants to be surprised?) was indeed surprised as he didn’t know what to expect. We’re both interested in history and so I knew he’d enjoy this (enjoy? not the right word), but he wasn’t prepared for how distressing some of the exhibits and information would be. I’m not being facetious when I say one shouldn’t need a warning when going to a house of terror museum, but if you go, be prepared that it’s unsettling, graphic, and disturbing, as it should be. Also, if you’re claustrophobic, there is a part where the only route forward is on an excruciatingly slow dark elevator where the only thing you see and hear is footage of someone describing what happened to them. House of Terror indeed.

I also was also not being facetious when I suggested a nearby cafe for a palette cleanser. We walked to Művész Coffee House https://maps.app.goo.gl/wPnEZP1EVaB1EuPy5 where I had an exquisite Dobos Torte.

After resting in the room for a while we went to dinner at Belvárosi Lugas Restaurant https://maps.app.goo.gl/9DHPNgJqP5D2bhma8 This restaurant was delightful and the food was excellent and “homemade” tasting. I had stuffed cabbage.

Day 5

This morning we wandered over to Atlantisz Publishing House & Bookstore https://maps.app.goo.gl/5SLHxSWikSp1cYAJ8 It's a great little store and we each bought a book and ran back to drop them at our nearby hotel room and then walked over to the Jewish Quarter for the afternoon. The atmosphere and architecture again seemed different here and we spent a couple of hours wandering around, stopping at a Greek restaurant for lunch. We walked around the markets at Gozsdu Court and I especially liked the Carl Lutz Memorial, Sissi mural and statue, and the weeping-willow sculpture at the Raoul Wallenberg Holocaust Memorial Park.

In the afternoon my husband was feeling like a break, so he stayed in the room and I went out aimlessly wandering. I love doing this and Budapest worked really well in this regard. Very walkable, and I’ll use the word again: interesting. I picked up a coffee and sat on a bench at Liszt Ferenc tér, people watching and just enjoying the atmosphere. I think I walked in circles a bit, down Király u. (there’s Frica Papa I see mentioned here a lot!), and seeing interesting buildings and statues everywhere I turned. I stopped for gelato at Fragola (Pistacio Raspberry and Sacher flavors) https://maps.app.goo.gl/zw5p1tYFi8dAFSRHA and by the time I got back to the room I was wiped. But we still needed to see the Parliament building and surrounding area at night.

We had a simple dinner and then walked to the Széchenyi Chain Bridge at dusk. We stood around watching the sun slowly set and the vibe was festive and jovial. We watched some teenagers down by the river challenging each other on skateboards. Another group was playing music and having an impromptu dance party. Families were walking, couples were coupling. It was magical to watch the sky darken and the buildings across the river lighting up.

A lovely, lovely day.

Day 6

Our last day. We got a late start and headed out mid-morning to the Inner-City Church and Károlyi Garden and then down Szerb utca. A really pretty area here and again I found myself admiring the buildings. We made our way to the Central Market Hall but since it was Sunday there wasn’t much open except some souvenir shops, so we didn’t stay long.

The rest of the day was spent revisiting places one last time and I sound like a broken record, but we just wandered. What a place to do it.

Reflections

On the first or second day of the trip I remember texting with a friend and telling her that so far I like it here, but I'm not falling head over heels in love with it. I think that stands true, but the weird thing is I’ve been home almost a week and Budapest seems to be one of those places that grows on you. When I look at my photos I wish I was back there. Will I ever go back? I don’t know. There are so many other places I need to get to. But never say never.

Also, the coffee in Hungary is amazing. I never had a bad cup.

Thanks for the report. I also live in southeast US- Kentucky - and I spend hours looking for options to avoid the 2 layover dilemma. I’ve driven to Chicago a few times just avoid the risks of missed connections (also often cheaper). Wish there were more one layover options.

I've been looking forward to this trip report and it did not disappoint! Budapest is a city I'm very intrigued by, one I didn't know I was interested in before joining the forum! Happy wandering is my favorite; claustrophobic spaces is, uh, not -- so thanks for the heads up on that (so that I can prepare, not avoid).

I live in a mid-size Midwestern city and people here are known to drive to Chicago and they then fly out from there, for better flight/layover options. As much as I know a two-layover itinerary would crush me, I still can't wrap my head around tacking on a road trip as the solution!

Thanks so much, Mary, for sharing your trip report! Lots of great info in it! I’m considering the RS Prague/Budapest tour for next year. I was in Budapest briefly way, way back with a 4-H People-to-People trip, and I liked Budapest & the food.

The 2-connection flights are my way of life now since moving from Seattle to north Idaho. Last February I added a train ride to that arrival day, too, but slept SO well that night in Cordoba! Thankful that Amsterdam has good connections for most of Europe!

Not trying to hijack the thread here (!) but Jean, I hadn't known you'd previously lived in Seattle. Since making the move to Idaho and now always having two connections, any tips for those of us daunted by the prospect?

Woo hoo! It's here! Off to read it and then I'll be back. :-)

@Hannah, keep your eye on the goal! I will put up with a lot to get to travel back to Europe. : )
I have three trips to Europe this year. The 2-connection itinerary is just the normal now.

Connections: I always try to connect through Amsterdam. They have their act together and are predictable. I can have a 90-minute connection through that airport without any issues. I’ve even been successful with a couple of 1-hour connections, but that feels a little tense - LOL! I avoid connecting through JFK or CDG, if possible. Atlanta has been okay.

Airline: I’ve always flown Delta or their partners.

I fly Premium Economy - sometimes upgrade to Premium Select for the overseas portion of the flight. I only drink wine on occasion, but I do have a glass of wine with the dinner to make me tired to try to sleep - sometimes successful, sometimes just a couple of naps.

Luggage: I only do a lightweight carry on, so I am not needing to bother with baggage claim, delays, etc. once I reach my final airport.

Jet-lag interactions: I don’t use an ATM on any other money decisions at the airport. And no public transportation I haven’t used previously. This is the day to hire a taxi or shuttle to your hotel from the airport, if needed. Keep it simple & quick for you. I’m familiar with the public transportation at Italy’s main airports, so that’s no issue.

Note: when we lived in Seattle and traveled to Europe, my husband would need a nap, & I needed to be outside to acclimate and was better moving around. I would come back to the hotel after a couple of hours. But now with it taking 24 hours from first airport to my arrival hotel, I can walk a few blocks, but I trust myself less to be alert. I pretty much walk a few blocks radius for 20-30 minutes, avoiding busy intersections, maybe have a gelato, and I come back and sleep for an hour or two (set the alarm for an hour & reset.). 2nd day jet lag has been very minimal.

Mary, I loved this report! So interesting, readable and funny! I've decided that I must meet your husband someday so that I can hear all those catchy comments he makes—they were cracking me up!

Good to know the 100E bus worked for you. I'm still on the fence about that. I usually avoid cabs like the plague, but I'm getting in around 3:25 pm and will be trying to get to my hotel quickly. At least I won't have to worry about jet lag, as I am flying from Bucharest. But loads of good info here! I've already got some on my agenda, but adding more. Thanks for posting this!

Good to know the 100E bus worked for you. I'm still on the fence about that. I usually avoid cabs like the plague, but I'm getting in around 3:25 pm and will be trying to get to my hotel quickly.

I forgot to mention that on the way back to the airport we used the Uber app (which works like a taxi and is metered). We felt ok doing it as we saw loads of Uber Taxis around the city. It worked out to about $35 or thereabouts, so well worth it. We also saw a lot of Bolt taxis, so I would feel OK using that app too (or having the hotel just call a cab).

Sheila, you're right, it's the worry of missing connections that gets to me. I can and will endure the exhaustion for the reward, but every extra step increases the chance of things going wrong.

Jean, Amsterdam was really easy so I'm definitely going to look for that in the future, which is good because I tend to fly Delta so lots of options through AMS. I knew from reading the forum to avoid connecting in CDG and JFK, and I also have LHR on there too.

I pretty much walk a few blocks radius for 20-30 minutes, avoiding busy intersections, maybe have a gelato, and I come back and sleep for an hour or two

Jean, I really appreciated reading all your tips (thanks for sharing them all!), but I admit I loved the gelato tip best of all ;)

I’m struggling a bit with the 2 layover thing as a couple of destinations that are high on my list for the next few years will require the same kinds of connections.

You might consider building in an overnight layover to break up a long trip.

You don't say where you are in the Southeast. For Budapest, you would fly to Washington DC [or JFK] and take the Austrian non-stop to Vienna. Stay overnight, or visit for a couple of days, then take the very easy train to Budapest. Of course this assumes you have the time and money to pull it off - can be more challenging if you're still working.

So for your future trips you might look at major cities with non-stops from the States close to your final destination. Also look into overnight layovers booked on the same ticket. And of course many non-stops from the East Coast originate from JFK - maybe time to give it a try. Or Atlanta.

@Mardee - the 100E bus from the airport is SO easy - not sure what the concern is with a 3:30 arrival. And of course if you're 65+ it's free.

Edited to add: Found this - may be of interest:

KLM, in partnership with Air France, offers a free stopover program through their Flying Blue loyalty program, allowing members to extend their layovers in Amsterdam for up to 10 days

Edited to add: Found this - may be of interest:

KLM, in partnership with Air France, offers a free stopover program through their Flying Blue loyalty program, allowing members to extend their layovers in Amsterdam for up to 10 days

It's not just Amsterdam they offer layovers at, but other cities as well. The only caveat is that you have to book the ticket through Flying Blue by phone. You can't book it online. But it's easy to call them.

Also, Mary, if you have points with other rewards programs, you can sometimes transfer them to Flying Blue miles and get a bonus. I recently did this with 100,000 Chase Rewards points, and transferred them to Flying Blue, but because I did it in May during their offer, I received an extra 25,000 miles from them.

One other nice thing about flying KLM is that (at least with me, since I fly out of MSP) invariably anything I book with KLM or AirFrance will be operated by Delta. That's the case with my upcoming trip to Romania/Budapest. I booked the flight with my Capital One rewards on KLM, the the first leg from MSP to AMS will be on a Delta flight. I like KLM but I prefer Delta so this works for me.

Reading this made me happy. :) :)

You actually did quite a lot. But you are right that the best sightseeing in Budapest is free - just walk and look up. Or ride a tram and look out. And I am adding bookshops to my list for “next time”. I have been to a couple but it’s been a while.

Budapest has a way of getting under your skin.

BOOKS Hungarians love their books. For years there was a homeless gentleman that “lived” near the national museum. He had a literal library along the sidewalk and read all day long. Locals would bring him new books. There are book wagons all over town: https://i.pinimg.com/736x/3c/7e/3c/3c7e3c71c659dbda513b2a1d36134f42.jpg When looking for that bookwagon photo, I found this. If you are into books have a blast: https://babblingbooks.com.au/booklovers-guide-to-hungary-budapest/ EDIT: that link was so good I was going to not add my two cents, but here my favorite stretch of road for old books and art prints and old posters and anything printed. Best visited Tuesday through Friday: https://maps.app.goo.gl/DAiYsXmHFbv1jfpi9

AIRPORT BUS Sure. And it has lots of room for luggage. BUT, unless you are going to walk to your hotel from Deak Ferenc ter you need to consider you luggage on the M1 or bus or ??? Do keep in mind that only the M4 has elevators at every stop and the M3 has elevators at about half the stops. Otherwise, you are walking up and down stairs. The old trams have two high steps and many of the busses have steps. Rush hour on public transportation starts at about 3:30pm and some routes get full. I would never fret a carry-on bag and personal item but the 34” Tourister Bag might be fun during rush hour. Not a lot of cobblestones here, but every street crossing will be a curb to pull the bag up.

FLIGHTS If your hometown is served by Turkish Air, the changing in Istanbul gives you the opportunity to layover and see an amazing city. I did it a few times when I was commuting back and forth here. Also keep in mind that Budapest is served by Ryan and is a hub for Wizz so Budapest and a whole host of other locations is always an option.

TRAINS Budapest is a bit at the fringe of tourist Europe so other than Vienna the train rides to Budapest can be sort of long (Prague is 6 hours). If you book, look at the Hungariand national rail site called MAV as they are often less expensive. If you do want an adventure train ride out of Budapest, there are daily overnight trains to Lviv and Kyiv.

Hannah Just for you: Favorite Tourism Video of Budapest https://youtu.be/1nd5AtZIrTk?feature=shared

TexasTravelMom to your point of looking out the window, Anthony Bourdain describing how visually pleasurable Budapest is https://youtu.be/0nd9DuDGCz0?si=aa0c19KaJHEtabkX

Mary “I think that stands true, but the weird thing is I’ve been home almost a week and Budapest seems to be one of those places that grows on you. When I look at my photos I wish I was back there.” Careful, I know this guy that went back one too many times and finally it would not let him leave. Like a episode of the Twilight Zone.

Jean some of the RS tours that come here spend woefully too little time here, but the Prague and Budapest is a bit better. It works out to 4 nights (about 3 and a third days). Still Mary didn’t run out of things to do in 6 nights so extend the trip a few days (at both ends).

Mary, thank you for the photos. If only you knew how close you got to my front door. LOL. You also got very close to this, which is rarely visited but interesting: https://varmuzeum.hu/en/medieval-jewish-house-of-prayer/ and https://www.timesofisrael.com/in-budapest-a-medieval-synagogue-dormant-for-hundreds-of-years-is-rededicated/

AND, here is detailed response to your trip report: https://t3.ftcdn.net/jpg/09/61/30/00/360_F_961300044_etYR9x1gdK6FvbKyEHWFgiaTjCzQ5DBL.jpg

AND, here is detailed response to your trip report: https://t3.ftcdn.net/jpg/09/61/30/00/360_F_961300044_etYR9x1gdK6FvbKyEHWFgiaTjCzQ5DBL.jpg

LOL! Mr E, I did think of you on the 100E bus.

Mary, thanks so much for the trip report, it was great. I did the RS Prague Budapest tour in Oct of ‘23 and added days before and after so I had 6 days in each city. I was very interested in the 20th C history of both and it really left a huge impression that stayed with me for quite some time after I returned. I heard from people who lived through the Soviet occupation after the war during my tour and the House of Terror museum does pack a wallop, too. I applaud them for it. I loved the art museum too.

I thought Budapest was so visually appealing as you said. The Opera House for instance is gorgeous inside! I think they were always trying to shine next to the looming presence of Vienna during their years in the Austrian Hungarian Empire. Several guides in Budapest were always keen to mention, ‘you know Sissi really liked us best!’

You also make me realize how grateful I am to live near a big hub because 3 flights would be a killer. I fly out of DFW which means I fly AA 90% of the time and land in LHR a lot but at least I’m over the pond and one more flight gets me to wherever. You really write a great trip report, thanks for bringing back memories.

Budapest is a city I'm very intrigued by, one I didn't know I was interested in before joining the forum!

I have to say, I think this is the case for me too. I can't remember when/how/why it first got on my radar, so it must have been from RS. Also, Mr E. is probably sending subliminal messages about Budapest to us on here all the time ;-p

I've decided that I must meet your husband someday so that I can hear all those catchy comments he makes—they were cracking me up!

Good luck with that! He'd be mortified if he knew how often he (and his sinuses) make an appearance in my forum life.

TTM, I think I noted Pörc & Prézli from one of your reports, so thank you!

If you are into books have a blast: https://babblingbooks.com.au/booklovers-guide-to-hungary-budapest/

<3 Swoon. I forgot to mention I did also go to Massolit and Irok Boltja. My husband and I have a whole shelf of just Hungarian literature. Really great stuff. They do melancholy like few others.

Mary, you want melancholy, read the words to the national anthem.

You mean the national anthem isn't Liszt's Hungarian Rhapsody No.2?!

TTM, I think I noted Pörc & Prézli from one of your reports

Probably - but I heard about it from Christy. :) And their free palinka is the only palinka I have found I can drink. Ha!

Thanks Mary, very helpful! Budapest is penciled in for next year!

Mary, some of the happier words of the anthem:

“God have mercy on the Hungarian
Whose being struck by disasters,
Reach out to him with a protective arm
Doom is whom he long has been fighting,
Give him a merry year,
This nation has been twisting slowly in the wind
Because of the past and the future!”

TexasTravelMom made the restaurant famous in this post: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/restaurants-in-budapest-revisited

TexasTravelMom made the restaurant famous in this post: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/hungary/restaurants-in-budapest-revisited

She is known for her friendly persuasion, lol! I have the whole darned thing saved in OneNote!

I thought Budapest was so visually appealing as you said. The Opera House for instance is gorgeous inside!

Lyndash, I forgot that I did duck inside the lobby and it was so pretty. (I need to take notes in the evenings on my next trips, for sure, because I keep forgetting things I saw/did).

Good luck with that! He'd be mortified if he knew how often he (and his sinuses) make an appearance in my forum life.

Hahahahaha!!!!

A lovely report, sounds like Budapest worked its strange magic on you as it has so many others. My first visit in 2014 started as a day trip from Vienna to see where my grandmother came from, then became 4 days...the first afternoon I wasn't too sure how I felt about it, but by the next day I was completely captivated and have since returned 5 times. I could really go for a cold Dreher and some toltott kaposzta at Belvarosi Lugas right now! My favorite bookshop is Bestsellers on Oktober 6 utca, always find something enjoyable there and the staff is great.

One of my fav Budapest videos

https://youtu.be/r8pnec4Hxps?si=AVoLODjxV5CJdCcR

One of my fav Budapest videos

https://youtu.be/r8pnec4Hxps?si=AVoLODjxV5CJdCcR

Oh, geez. This is an extreme version of my Uber driver from the airport when they were asking where I'd been. I should've just said Orlando.

Ha ha, it happens all over. On my first trip to England back in 1996, I was in a small village in the Peak District, and started chatting with two British couples who were also exploring the area. When I mentioned I was from Ohio, one of the men asked, "Isn't that where all the cowboys are?".

Ha! I would've asked them what their definition of a 'cowboy' is ;-)

On ocassion here, i wear my boots and hat. But only for nice events like the opera.