Recently got back from a 5-day honeymoon in Santa Margherita Ligure on the Italian Riviera. It’s a scenic, less-crowded alternative to places like Cinque Terre, Portofino, and the Amalfi Coast.
Day 1: Arrival
We landed in the evening and had a private transfer from the airport (€140). It was raining, but the weather cleared by evening (seems common there). Checked into Hotel Continental, took a short walk in town, and had focaccia at Panificio Dama—a local actually walked us there when we asked for a recommendation.
Day 2: Portofino Day Trip
Perfect weather for exploring. Started with breakfast at Pasticceria Arte Dolce, visited Chiesa di Santa Margherita and Villa Durazzo. Ferries to Portofino were easy to buy at the pier (€18 round trip); the ride is just 15 minutes. Portofino is beautiful but tiny and pricey. The view from Castello Brown is amazing. Lunch at Trattoria Concordia (great pesto, delicious El Dorado fish). Portofino is worth seeing but not an all-day stop.
Day 3: More Santa Margherita Ligure
Another beautiful day despite a grim forecast. Explored more boutiques (clothing prices similar to San Francisco). Checked out Seghezzo for gourmet treats, peeked at Castello di Santa Margherita Ligure (seemed closed), and visited Oratorio di Sant’Erasmo. Tried to day-trip to Sanremo but train delays (book directly for refunds!). Dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria dal Baffo was just okay; sunset from our balcony was much better. The Carlo Riva tribute festival was setting up with music and fireworks.
Day 4: Camogli & Recco
Another Pasticceria Arte Dolce breakfast, then a scenic bus ride to Camogli. It’s quieter and hilly (rocky rather than sandy beaches), with a nice promenade. Explored the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta and loved lunch at Izoa—best meal of the trip. Bussed over to Recco but found it skippable. Back in SML, sampled focaccia at Sapori di Pane and decided it was our favorite.
Day 5: Last Day
Perfect weather again. More focaccia from Sapori di Pane. Walked to Chiesa di San Giacomo di Corte near Villa Durazzo, then trekked along the scenic coastline to Cervara Abbey. Final dinner at Trattoria da Pezzi (walnut tortellini and swordfish were both great).
Overall Impression
Santa Margherita Ligure was a wonderful choice for our honeymoon. It’s definitely pricier than inland Italy (around €3,500 total for 5 days), but still more affordable and relaxed than Portofino, Cinque Terre, or the Amalfi Coast—and just as scenic. The town is flat, walkable, and packed with great shops and food. We loved that it wasn’t crowded, and it worked perfectly as a hub for exploring the region.