Please sign in to post.

Trip Report: 4N Budapest 2N Gyor 4N Vienna 3N Prague

At long last, we are on our trip to Central Europe. This trip has been 6 years in the making, just getting delayed for various events (e.g., weddings, Covid, money). And even though it is still kind of terrible timing for work and personal reasons, we are just big fat doing it anyway. “We” is me and Nick, my husband. We are in our 50’s. This is my third trip to Europe (Spain and Italy previously), and his third too (Viking cruise with family along the Rhine, Spain with me).

Our itinerary is 4N Budapest 2N Gyor 4N Vienna 3N Prague. Here is the report of our adventure so far!

N1 Trip from Denver, CO to Budapest. The flight over was thankfully uneventful. We flew British Airways, a 9-hour flight, and had a 3-hour layover at Heathrow. Getting from terminal 5 to terminal 3 for connections to other countries was easy to follow. We have carry-on only bags but still needed to go through security again. Both of our bags were sent for a second screening. For mine, the agent asked that I show him my toiletries…he grabbed the travel size bottle of Listerine mouthwash, which still had the security seal intact, and put it into what looked like a microwave. After that device determined the mouthwash was safe, he handed it back and I was on my way. For Nick, the lady just told him to take his bag without any further inspection. When we went to board for our flight to Budapest, the check-in agent made a big show of how they may not be accepting carryon bags anymore, especially our VERY large US carry-on bags. Haha, I get it. The UK carry-on sized luggage looks tiny compared to ours, like what Frodo and Sam were carrying to Mordor. But we're from Colorado and I'm proud I'm doing 2 weeks with a 22-inch roller bag, thank you very much. Haha And there was plenty of overhead space left too.

After arriving in Budapest, getting through passport control was fairly quick. Lot of people in line were asking each other which river cruise they were going on. One day maybe I’d like to try one. But for now, we just said we are going it on our own. We were pretty wiped out from the flights over, so I knew we would just take a taxi from the airport to the city. Super easy to follow signs for “FoTaxi,” exit the airport and the taxi stand is right there. There was also an ATM, so I took out just a little money, 15,000HUF, which is about $40USD just in case I needed some local currency. Showed the address to our apartment to the nice man at the taxi stand, who estimated our cost to be about $35USD. The taxi drove up within 2 minutes and we were off. Classic rock is a big thing in taxis here. We started with Scorpions “Still Loving You,” but it didn’t stop there for the 30-minute ride. Taxis take credit cards, no problem. The cost is not set however, it is a metered taxi.

Our apartment is in District VII, right across from the Zeneakademia which appears to be a music academy and concert hall. I didn’t plan this, but it has been fun to hear people playing flutes and piano from their open windows across the street and learning about Franz Liszt. There are several restaurants on the street and while they seemed pretty touristy, we just didn’t care for being so tired and went to literally the closest one, Korhely Faloda & Daloda. It was about 7pm by this time. I had goulash and what they called gnocchi, which tasted kind of like mac and cheese. It was delicious (although I did just have probably the worst airline food on BA, so…). The local market is called SPAR (they are everywhere) and there was one right down the street, stopped in for some supplies, went back to the apartment and tried to call it a night.

Posted by
199 posts

N2 Budapest. Had a terrible time sleeping. A few hours of restless tossing and turning, up by 2am, maybe a couple more hours and up by 6am. But we had some coffee in the apartment and rallied, walked to a place for breakfast, and then set out for Parliament. I told Nick I wanted to buy the 3-day tram pass, but he was set on walking, so off we went, 25 or 30 minutes walking I’d say. Parliament is massive and lovely from the outside. We went into the Lapidarium, which is a museum of artifacts from the Parliament’s history, including stone gargoyles whose nicknames were apparently “monkey dogs.” Ha. We hesitated to buy the $30USD each tickets to enter the building, but I am kind of regretting it and we may revisit in our remaining time here. Instead, we walked around the building, stopping to sit on benches and admire the view and enjoy the weather, which may I add has been nothing short of perfect, low 70s, sunny.

Walked over to the Danube and lo and behold, there was a marathon going on. We had heard some sort of gathering in the distance with people yelling on loudspeakers, but I honestly thought it was something to do with the upcoming elections, because there are election posters literally everywhere in town. But it was a marathon and that foiled our plans to walk along the Pest side of the river for now. It was fun to watch all the runners and cheer them on for a bit. We had to kind of backtrack to find our way around the race path to the Chain Bridge. Lovely walk across the bridge.

Our plan was to take the funicular up the hill but the line was massive. So we stopped in for a drink in a random restaurant and then braved the steps and made our way to Fisherman’s Bastion. Very cool, but VERY crowded by this time (maybe noon?). Still enjoyed the view to Pest from this side of the river. You can see many major Pest landmarks now, Parliament, St. Stephen’s Basilica.

Nick very much wanted to go see the Roman Ruins of Aquincum. I hadn’t looked into them before, but since I had been to Italy previously, my thoughts were like, “oh great, Roman ruins.” Hahaha So we got a taxi (still hadn’t bought that tram/bus pass). Turns out this site is just a few tiny stone sections of buildings, maybe 2 feet high, with some interpretive signs that say, “here’s the bath house,” “here’s the butcher’s house,” and it's more like a place to take the kids. It reminded me of a Renaissance Fair, with people dressed in period costumes (not Roman, if I recall) and selling things and doing face painting. I don't believe they are even real ruins, I think they are replicas because they are just so uniformly the same 2 feet in height and perfectly sectioned off rooms of houses, etc. But that's just my suspicion. So that was not as cool as I had hoped. Lesson learned. Verify Nick’s research on places to visit. Haha.

Had a nice late lunch/early dinner at a different place near the apartment. Nick had a schnitzel three times the size of his head. Back at the apartment, Nick was ready for a nap (really early bedtime). I sat on the balcony for a bit and then left to wander the neighborhood a little more. I'm no architecture expert, but the buildings seem to be a mix of massive 18th centure edifices and crumbling Eastern block type housing. There don't appear to be any buildings taller than 8 or so stories, I imagine so buildings like the Basilica and the Parliament remain most prominent on the skyline. Overall I feel so happy to be experiencing this city. It feels foreign but I also feel comfortable.

Then it occurred to me to Google the Kadarka wine bar that Mr. E. on the Hungary forum always mentions. It’s only a 7-minute walk from our place! Had a nice glass of white but wasn’t hungry for food. Glad I stopped in! Tried to get to sleep early, but still having so much difficulty. Got back up and watched Netflix for awhile. I know, who goes to Europe to watch Netflix? Just really weird how I can’t get good sleep yet.

Posted by
199 posts

N3 Budapest.

Managed to get sleep from maybe 3am to 6am and back up again. Ugh. More coffee…more breakfast nearby. Today we were going to go back to the Buda side to see the Buda Castle and National History Museum, but thankfully we checked our guidebook and they are closed on Mondays. So we switched plans and walked to the Dohany Street Synagogue. We walked through a long market selling all manner of jewelry, art, maps, etc. Not ready to buy souvenirs yet. The cost to enter the Synagogue was about 10,800 HUF ($30USD) each but it was impressive, apparently the largest Synagogue in Europe. Men are given a paper kippah to wear on their heads when entering. I sat for a bit to try to take it all in. We saw many moving memorials to the Jews killed in the Holocaust and who died in the Jewish ghetto. The museum was also very interesting, holding some Jewish relics related to rituals, and there are not many left from that time after being stolen/destroyed in the war.

Then we walked to St. Stephen’s Basilica. For fun, we went on the ferris wheel which is on the way and in a large square in the middle of the city. Not sure it was worth the price of 4300 HUF (about $12USD) each, but it was still a fun thing to do. Saw nice views of the city. I think it went around 3 or 4 times, including stopping at the top for awhile to admire the view.

On my way into the cathedral, I lit a candle for my mother. The one-year anniversary of her death is coming up in a few days, so I thought it an appropriate act. I wished her happy belated Mother’s Day and said I missed her. St. Stephen’s is very nice, large, ornate. I sat again for awhile.

Then I saw it…they claim that St. Stephen’s right hand is on display. Stephen was the first King of Hungary, around the year 1000 (although the basilica was not built until after 1900) and after he died his right hand was retrieved (how I do not know). Apparently the hand was taken and moved around various places, Transylvania, Dubrovnik, Austria, and even “the West”…which I’m not clear how far west we are talking. But the hand is back now, and it’s on display. It’s small and brown and shriveled and there in a very ornate glass box.

And that’s the trip so far! We found a different place for late lunch/early dinner and I had some delicious mushroom soup and just felt in the mood for pasta too. I’m so very tired but don’t feel like my body will let me sleep. Been writing this report for awhile now and it’s almost 10pm and I feel nothing but awake. Maybe I should go find one of those ruin bars since I’m still dressed and awake. I hope after I wash my face and get into PJs my body will let me get some sleep tonight.

Anyway, hope any of this was enjoyable and/or useful to some. More to come!

Posted by
7937 posts

Thanks for the report. Did you leave while Denver was getting the upslope storms? It’s in the 70’s right now, at a quarter-to-four, and in the 60’s in the mountains, high and dry.

In London last month, we ran into closures and detours because of a half-marathon, with the big marathon coming up a couple weeks later. Must be that time of year.

Sorry you’re not getting the sleep you want. You’re watching Netflix … would listening to music, or some audiobook or spoken blog of interest help put you to sleep? Works for me.

Posted by
1740 posts

Your report is bringing back some memories. We stayed not far from where you are.

Posted by
199 posts

N4 Budapest. I finally got some sleep! A solid 5 or 6 hours, so I felt a little more human today. We cooked eggs and potatoes in the apartment for breakfast and then ventured out to the Buda side again to see Buda castle and History Museum. Maybe we should have just stayed on this side to begin with?

Walked to the Chain bridge again. I don’t know why, but Nick really wanted to walk everywhere and had zero interest in learning the tram/bus system, which seems a real shame to me. I would do it differently if I were on my own. It is not a problem at all to walk everywhere, it just takes more time obviously. This time after crossing the bridge we went left and found our way up many steps. And then we found some more steps after those steps. Ha. The views of the Danube and Pest from the castle and the museums on this hill are really spectacular and worth the climb. The National Gallery and Library are also in the same location. We spent several hours here. There were a few restaurants and cafes here too, but we did not stop in. If you want to stop and have a snack/drink, there are options. There are many options for bathrooms as well.

I wish I could give a great account of the history of Hungary but I truly lost track of all the times this country has been invaded and destroyed by so many other countries/peoples. My simplistic takeaway is that every time this place tries to get established, somebody invades and destroys everything, and then repeat that a few times more. What this means is, when you go to the museums that account for the 2000+ years of history here, there’s not much left to display. It’s mostly pieces of artifacts – jewelry, shoes, parts of statues and gravestones, etc., found in the rubble over time. And this is why archeologists are to be revered because they are the ones who searched for, retrieved, and restored every little artifact they could from the rubble. Stephan’s Hall does have some nice pieces of furniture and artwork from that more recent time. As we were walking through, I apparently got too close to a table and a guard quickly came over to ask me to move away. I promise, no royal furniture was harmed by my visit.

Going back down the steps is also something to be ready for. I am a fan of handrails and didn’t find many.

On a lighter note, we decided kind of last minute to take one of the night cruises down the Danube. Googled “Budapest river cruise” on my phone and that brought up lots of options, the first one said “unlimited prosecco” so that shows you what my phone thinks of me. We didn’t have dinner on the boat, just the aforementioned prosecco. It was a 75-minute trip that went one way up the river and then made a U-turn and went back. Some landmarks like Parliament on the Pest side, and Mattias church and the museums on the Buda side were lit up, all the other buildings I think were hotels and such. Still a pretty view and I’m glad we splurged on the trip, about $20USD each.

Wish I had a few more days in Budapest but we are off to Gyor today, so we will find our way to the Kelenfold train station for a quick train ride. I wish I was a more savvy traveler as I feel I could have found train tickets somewhere closer to us, but that will be our journey for today. The Pannonhalma Abbey is near Gyor and that is one reason we will stay there, and the town is on our way to Vienna as well.

Posted by
165 posts

I can't tell you how much I'm enjoying reading along -- and in real time! Your writing style is fantastic and I'm appreciating all the little laughs you're giving me/us. I'm newer to the forum and my own travel plans have been delayed because of family matters, and so I'm getting so much comfort and inspiration from others sharing their plans and experiences. Budapest is high on my list, and I can't wait to hear more about the rest of your trip. In the meantime, here's to more uninterrupted sleep!

Posted by
4807 posts

Glad you are having a great time! Budapest is a wonderful city for just wandering through, although there are plenty of places to visit. I can’t walk as much but I sure don’t blame Nick for wanting to walk! Come back with impressions of Gyor!

Posted by
199 posts

Travel day to Gyor. This time I was still dead asleep at 8:00am so Nick had to wake me deliberately. Really weird my sleep schedule is still messed up.

While I enjoy planning trips like this, when it comes to getting around, my brain either shuts down or actively works against me. My sense of direction is trash and I get discombobulated real quick. Long story short, after we bought tickets, we walked up and down probably every single stairway in the Kelenfold train station trying to find the right platform. And I even asked 3 people - that’s right, 3 different people – and people who worked there in the information booths – and guess what they did? They pointed at more stairways. Haha. But we finally found the right platform and now we are in Gyor. Our train seemed to be a regional train and it made probably 20 stops on the way and took about 1 hour 45 minutes or so. I didn’t care because it said “Gyor,” on the sign so I knew at least I was more than likely to end up where I needed to go.

Our apartment is just a quick walk from the train station, near the Town Hall. I won’t go into how confused I was with the self-check-in process, which lockbox, which door, etc. We always get to where we need to be, so that is good. We’ve only been here a couple hours, but Gyor seems like a nice town, slower moving for sure than Budapest. We found our way to what seemed like a main town square, with a fountain and the National Theater. Ate at a restaurant on the square called Palffy. Nick got pork knuckle and I got venison stew, which I didn’t care for. Also saw people ordering gigantic ice cream dishes. We stopped by a Coop store for some supplies, coffee etc. Staying in tonight and doing some laundry. Mundane but necessary.

Tomorrow we will take the train again (I hope I can find it better this time) to the Pannonhalma Archabbey - 400,000 books! - and back again for our second night in Gyor. There is also a cathedral and a synagogue in town, although Nick seems less than keen to see them. I may need to venture out on my own.

Posted by
199 posts

N7 Gyor

We saw the Pannonhalma Abbey today and WOW. Wonderful experience and so worth the trip. We took the bus, not the train like I said yesterday. I used Rome2Rio to find out that the bus would be the best way to get there since the bus stops right at the Abbey, while the train stop would have been a long walk and up the hill. Easy walk to the bus station here in Gyor and we asked the nice-ish person at the information desk which platform our bus would be. (I joke by saying nice-ish – mannerisms are more flat here, no one is going to greet you with a huge smile, and I’m okay with that.) You pay the driver on the bus and the driver can make change in forints. Of course, just as I was congratulating myself on good navigation skills, I somehow lost my jacket getting onto the bus. I had it slung over my purse and just got really focused trying to pay the bus driver the right amount and didn’t notice it slip off to the ground. Gah. So that is my first clothing casualty of the trip. Anyway, the bus ride was about 40 minutes or so and it stopped many times, going through what seemed to be suburbs and also countryside. We even saw standalone houses, which you don’t really see in the big cities where it’s all apartments.

We learned that the Abbey was founded in 996 and has withstood other invasions of Hungary that destroyed other cathedrals etc. The Abbey is on a hill and was fortified enough that the invaders like the Mongols just didn’t bother apparently (maybe a simple recounting of that history, but I think it is directionally accurate). Other parts of the abbey were built later and there are still monks who live here and manage those areas – there is a school, an arboretum, a winery, and I think you can even stay here as a guest, like a hostel. We really enjoyed going through the abbey. There is a helpful audio guide you can buy. There were not many people here, so going through the basilica with just the two of us was eerily quiet. It was also very dark inside. The heart of one of the Hapsburg princes is buried here, while the rest of him is in Austria. I don’t quite get why bits and pieces of royals get spread around various cathedrals, but I’m sure glad the heart was underground and not on display in an ornate glass box like St. Stephen’s right hand the other day. Haha.

Can we talk about the Abbey’s library? 400,000 books and they are still collecting more. When I walked into the library, I took one look and just lowered my head and laughed because it was one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen. And it’s all very organized, row upon row that went a few layers deep each row, and section after section labeled, and I also saw doors on the upper level that had more sections. I think section #160 was the last one. Many rare manuscripts on display. So, yeah, I recommend taking the trip to the Abbey if you can spare the time.

We also enjoyed the city of Gyor. We walked a little more around to the older section of the city, Kaptalan Hill. Climbed the tower of the old castle here, Puspokvar. Many steps, but there are handrails, which I appreciate. You need to buy tickets down the street to enter. We walked over to the river, or really multiple rivers because the Danube and two other rivers meet here. We arrived too late to go into the Cathedral, though, and the Synagogue was closed. Had dinner near the river at an Italian restaurant. Gelato is also abundant here. In fact, it seemed that there were more coffee and ice cream places where people would sit and relax, more so than restaurants to sit and eat full meals.

Staying in Gyor was interesting because, while there are tourists here, it’s not massive crowds, so I felt a little out of place sometimes. When I bought our tickets to the castle, the lady asked me, “why are you here?” Haha. But I would recommend staying over and not making a trip to the Abbey a day trip on the way somewhere else. Speaking of which, we leave tomorrow by train for Vienna for 4N.

Posted by
2607 posts

“why are you here?”

LOL!

Looking forward to hearing about Vienna.

Posted by
7937 posts

MorganMurphy, you do realize that you are going to get your sleep schedule perfectly adjusted the day before you fly home, right? Then you’ll need extensive time to readjust to Mountain Daylight Time at home - LOL!

Sounds like it’s otherwise still going well. Thank you for the continued updates.

Posted by
468 posts

Fascinating report! On our most recent trip, I took a sleeping pill each night. It helped for sure, though even with that I was up between 5-6 each day. Walking wise, like Nick, we too seldom take public transport in European cities (unless its a day trip by train) and usually go most everywhere by walking.

Posted by
199 posts

Guess who got on the wrong train to Vienna today? This girl. Ugh. What is wrong with me? I know there are two main train companies, OBB and Rejiojet, because I’ve been reading that information for 6 years now on this travel forum. But that is my Trip Planning brain that knows this information. My Trip Getting Around brain is different. When we were at the Gyor train station, both company’s trains were running late and also operating from the same platform. When a train finally came by and said "Vienna" on the display we got on – everybody else was getting on too – and I didn’t check the side of the train to see whether it said OBB or Rejiojet. Once we got on, the train started moving before we could find our seats and we just sat down in some empty spots. Spoiler alert: we never found our seats because they did not exist on that train. When the ticket agent came by, I had to buy new tickets. A nice expensive mistake on my part. At least the train was going to Vienna. But I felt really stupid.

Our apartment is in the Wieden district 4. We took a taxi to the apartment – cash only, so we got some Euros at the bank across the street from the taxi stand. It was both impressive and terrifying the way the driver sped around the narrow streets. And this is multiple times now I've seen cars back up down one-way streets. They are clearly going the wrong way down the street, but they are pointed in the correct direction, so I guess that makes it okay. By that point we were only a few minutes from the apartment so I said we could just walk from here but he said, "no, we will get there." When a car that was both facing and going the correct direction came up behind us, the taxi driver backed up onto a sidewalk to make room for the car to go by, they swore at each other in German (I'm assuming it was swearing), and then he kept going. We eventually made it one piece and just stayed close by for the night to find a Spar and had some beer and spaetzle and a nearby restaurant. So far the area looks to be mostly residential apartments, restaurants and businesses. More to report tomorrow.

So today was an off day, although at least I did not lose any clothing. No helpful travel information for me to share today, other than remember to look at the side of train for which company it is. We’ll regroup tomorrow. I need to buy a replacement jacket since it’s colder and raining here and I’m wearing Nick’s spare hoodie. Tomorrow night we go to the opera, and that looks to be a 15-minute walk. I feel fairly confident we will make it. haha

Posted by
4807 posts

You are making me laugh, but traveling with your attitude is the perfect way to travel! Also you are inspiring me to get to Gyor my next trip.

Posted by
165 posts

Oh my gosh, my enjoyment of this trip report just keeps increasing with each entry. I'm having a rough week, and your writing has been a spot of joy. (Heart emoji)

Posted by
199 posts

I'm so glad everyone is liking my trip report. It's a nice way to unwind for me to write it out at night and while I still remember things.

N9 Vienna.
Today we saw a few museums in the Hofburg Palace area, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and also saw The Marriage of Figaro at the Vienna State Opera House. And that was a very full day. There are more than a dozen museums to see as part of Hofburg, so we picked the ones that were of the most interest to us to start with, which were the House of Austrian History, Ephesus Archeology museums, and Sisi Museum.

The entrances to all these are pretty close to each other (although of course I got turned around and eventually had to ask somewhere where the Sisi museum was). The Austrian History and Ephesus tickets can be bought together. As an aside, the entrance to the Weltmuseum that has the royal armory and historical musical instruments is right next door, and I wanted to go there too but we ran out of time for today.

Loved the Austria history museum. It has a really interesting display of mostly photographs and videos from 1918 to 2018 which I thought did a wonderful job of showing the cultural progression after WWI, how Austria became part of Nazi Germany, what life was like after WWII, and it even talked a little about the existence of the BLM movement in happened in Austria.

The Ephesus museum displays lots of archeological finds from the ancient city in Greece/now Turkey that the Austrian Archeological Institute has been researching for more than 100 years – they said excavations have only been interrupted during WWI and WWII. We always gravitate to the museums showing statues and things found in rubble from ancient times. Not even joking, if you tell Nick there will be ruins of some ancient artifacts, he will buy a ticket no matter where we are. Haha.

If you go through the corridor to get to the Sisi museum but keep going – that is where you can find lots of restaurants and shops. Did we go that way? Of course not! My Plan Getting Around brain was like, let’s go the other direction. Haha And it takes awhile to get around because the buildings take up entire city blocks. So we spent probably 30 minutes walking past two large museums, Natural History and Art History, to find a place to eat.

Then we went back to the Sisi Museum. The audio guide is helpful. This museum is basically in two parts. The first part is all about Empress Elizabeth’s life as a child before she married Franz Joseph and became royalty, apparently hated court life and traveled a lot, and was later killed by an anarchist. The second part displays various opulent salons, receiving rooms, a bathroom, a formal dining hall. I think it was worth the entry fee, which was pretty hefty, around 20 euros each.

I can tell we are getting a little more lax about our spending, Unlike that first day in Budapest where we did not want to pay $30 to see the inside of the Parliament, now we are just handing over entry fees left and right. Tourism Industry 1 – Team Morgan/Nick 0.

St. Stephen’s Cathedral is nearby, a short walk, but can I tell you about the crowds – holy moly. And I’ve seen some crowds. I’ve seen the Colosseum, the Vatican Museums, the Alhambra. These were right on par with those crowds. The area around the Cathedral is just so crowded and nothing but shops. There is a McDonald’s next door and a merry-go-round. For some reason, this thoroughly disturbed me. You can enter the cathedral for free but only see part of it, to get close to the main alter and basically the center area, you must pay a fee. I just didn’t want to deal with the crowds, so we admired what we could, I lit a candle for my mother, and we left. Maybe I should have been more patient.

Posted by
199 posts

N9 Vienna, part 2: Later that night we went to the opera. I bought these tickets many months ago and this night was the anchor for our whole trip, seeing a Mozart opera in Vienna. That being said, I did not want to take up space in the carryon suitcase with a fancy evening dress and shoes for one event. I wore a nice summer dress and sandals, which I wear other times too, and Nick wore linen pants and a short-sleeve button down shirt. We were the most underdressed people there (except for small children) but we just ignored the side eye and carried on.

Our seats were fantastic, first level of boxes with a great view. The opera house is beautiful, the performance was lovely, the orchestra was wonderful, the conductor – wow, such energy. There are little TV screens at your seat that translate to your language, which were not at all obtrusive. It was easy to just glance down to quickly read the script, and then because it’s opera it takes way longer for them to say the script and they usually repeat things multiple times anyway.

This was a modern rendition of the Marriage of Figaro and characters were dressed in modern clothes and the script seemed a little updated too. Not that it made much difference to me because even if Susanna was saying, “yo, Figaro, what’s up?” in Italian and sung operatically that still sounds pretty cool. Haha. But it would have been nice to see the characters in period clothing. Downsides to the opera: Very tight quarters, like being on an airplane, and it got really stuffy and warm in there. We were both glad we had worn short sleeves at that point.

Posted by
199 posts

N10 Vienna.

Today we went to St. Charles’ Church and the Belvedere Palace museums. And that was a fairly long day, although we did get a later start, sleeping in and ingering at breakfast at a great place near our apartment (Point of Sale, in case anyone is staying in the Wieden district).

Charles Church has an open area in front with a pond/fountain where you can sit for awhile and actually view the church from a distance. I’m glad we paid the entry fee (9 euros each, I think) to get into the church. It was less crowded than St. Stephen’s yesterday (night and day difference) and the inside is really nice. You can also climb some stairs and get a closer look at the organ. Although, it had a very large modern art sculpture/installation hanging from the dome. I’ve not seen that before in a catholic church. The literature they gave us describe the piece. It’s called Forms through Folds and made of 700 meters of neon tubes that are all twisted around and kind of looks like a big plate of spaghetti, although I doubt that is what the artist was going for. Haha.

As far as I can tell, no parts of dead royals are housed in this church. Whew!

We visited both the upper and lower Belvedere palaces. We spent about 3 hours total here. You can buy a ticket for just the upper palace or a combo ticket for both. The upper does have a timed entry, but our wait was only 30 minutes, so we walked through the Botanic garden for a bit. There is a café outside the upper palace but it was super busy, and the line for the ladies bathroom was 20 people long. The upper palace is the larger of the two with nice artwork displays starting from the early Gothic period where it’s all artwork of Jesus on the cross and Mary holding baby Jesus. Then the galleries progress through time. The upper palace is also where many Gustav Klimpt works are, including famous “The Kiss.” The walk to the lower palace is a good 10 minutes. There is also a café for the lower palace that was much less crowded so we stopped in for a drink. Seemed the lower palace housed more special exhibitions. I’m glad we went to both upper and lower, although I get fatigued by art museums pretty fast. I enjoy them and I try to remember to do what my art history teacher said to look at all the corners and edges to find little hidden gems the artist may have put in. But I just can’t look at 500 paintings at once. They start to all blur together and I just need a break.

I was today year’s old when I learned that 99% of grocery stores are closed on Sundays in Vienna (same for tobacco stores). We needed supplies (coffee, wine) so we had to track down the one store that was still open and it was a madhouse with all the other people who didn’t do their shopping yesterday. What a nice concept that a store can close so that their workers get a real day off.

Well, I’ve reached my limit of museum-ing for the moment, so tomorrow we are going on a day trip to the Wachau Valley to see Durnstein and Melk.

Posted by
2774 posts

This is a delightful and engaging trip report; I am really enjoying it. It’s also helpful because these places are all on my list. In fact I had planned a similar trip in 2020, but of course it was cancelled. Still haven’t got it back on the schedule, but you are making me realize I should not for get it!

Posted by
2607 posts

I think I see the spaghetti art on the latest Google pics 😄

99% of grocery stores are closed on Sundays in Vienna

Putting a big highlighted asterisk for this on my Vienna notes!

Posted by
165 posts

As far as I can tell, no parts of dead royals are housed in this church.

LOL omg I'm dying.

Posted by
199 posts

N11 Vienna.
When I originally planned this day trip, I envisioned that we would do all the traveling on our own, finding our way to the train stations from Vienna, to Melk, to the Abbey, to the Danube to rent ebikes and riding along the Danube to Durnstein to see the castle, and then riding to Krems to take the train back to Vienna.

I downshifted and bought a tour that went from Vienna to Durnstein, then a boat ride down the Danube to Melk, and then back to Vienna. In the 11th hour, I just doubted my navigation abilities. I don’t want to dwell on my regrets about this change of plans, so I will just report on how this tour went. And I realize that I am writing this on a travel forum that sells group tours. Haha. So, I mean no disrespect. I think the Rick Steves “My Way” tours might be a good fit for me?

Nick went on a few tours when he went on the Viking river cruise and he said, “they say you have free time, but we’re going to have a hard time getting away from the tour guide to see places.” Spoiler alert: I hate it when Nick is right. Haha The tour was from a company called Vienna Sightseeing Tours, and we met at 8:45 am at the Vienna Opera House, and we rode on a large bus/coach for a little over an hour to Krems and then to Durnstein. The tour guide (a very nice man from Croatia) gave lots of commentary on the way about various things we could see from the bus, parts of the river, castles, etc.

We had 1 hour in Durnstein, but 25 minutes of that was following the tour guide at a glacial pace down a path along the Danube to an entrance to the city. The castle (where King Richard the Lionheart was held captive) was very far, so not possible for us to get to during our remaining free time. Even on your own, it seemed like you would need a least 2 hours or so to find your way up from the river and back down and be able to see some of the town on the way.

After a brief ride back on the bus, we stopped in Spitz where we again walked very slowly down the Danube path – I saw the exact Nextbike stations where we would have rented the ebikes from – to the boat for a very pleasant 90-minute boat ride from Spitz to Melk. It was a very nice boat ride. Lush green countryside and calm blue river. We had some drinks and snacks and chatted with a nice man from Australia who was traveling around Europe for 2 months. We told him we had 2 weeks max off from work and his jaw dropped. Haha.

At Melk, there was an option to pay for a guided tour of the abbey, but I just didn’t want to. I couldn’t walk at that slow pace anymore. Does that sound awful? I asked our guide what time we needed to meet back, and we set off on our own. It was about 3 hours of free time we had to explore the city. The Abbey is high up on the hill, so we didn’t have time to walk back down to the river. We still enjoyed walking along the streets. Most restaurants were open and we stopped into a place for some late lunch.

Made our way back up the hill to the Abbey to the place to meet the bus early and talked with the tour guide, because I’m one who always arrives early. Haha Another 1 hour + drive back to Vienna and we were dropped off back at the Vienna Opera House around 5:45 pm.

So that was our tour day. In hindsight, I would try to be more brave and done it on our own. But I can only say that in hindsight and not from actual experience. Tomorrow we train to Prague. It’s a 4-hour train ride. I am going to do everything in my power to get on the right train this time. Haha.

Posted by
165 posts

Soooo, I keep checking for the ongoing trip report, eagerly awaiting the next update, and now I'm all, did they get to Prague? Where are they?! What train did they take??

Posted by
2607 posts

They're eating their chimney cakes and basking in the afterglow of a non-eventful correct train ride.

Posted by
199 posts

Travel day to Prague.

We made it! Thankfully uneventful travel day to Prague. Our train left from the Vienna main train station. I said we are going to get there early so that we can make sure we know which platform we need. Turns out departure platforms are not posted until 15 minutes before the scheduled departure, so it doesn’t do any good to arrive very early. Unless you want to do some shopping, there are tons of stores.

I know we talk a lot about how many steps there are at various attractions, but can we just talk about the steps getting on and off trains? There are only three steps, but man are they narrow and steep! And it’s not like you have a lot of time, just a few minutes at each stop, so there is time pressure too. Thankful to have our smallish carryon bags and I don’t know how people do it with large suitcases. Basically Nick went first with his bag and then reached back up for mine. What a gentleman.

Arriving in the Prague train station, we found an ATM to get some Korunas and made our way outside. Unless I missed it, there were not signs that said “taxi” to direct you to where the taxies were. But after we got outside and went across the street, there were taxis lined up.

Our apartment is in the Prague 1 district, maybe a 15-minute walk to the Charles bridge. We didn’t do much except find a restaurant nearby – they had a TV playing ice hockey and Czechia was trying to beat Canada and had the game tied up for a minute, so it was a festive atmosphere. We stayed in after to do laundry.

Posted by
199 posts

N13 Prague.
Woke up with a bit of a cold today, super congested. So I took some Dayquil, packed lots of tissues, and off we went. Today we saw the National Museum (which has both the Czech/Bohemia history portion and a Natural history portion), the Astronomical clock, walked over to the Prague Castle, and then back across the Charles bridge. That was a pretty full day.

Of course, we make a beeline for the museums about history and ancient things dug up from the dirt over time. Haha The National Museum itself is absolutely beautiful inside, with a large 3-story interior area with lots of art, busts of prominent Czechs over time, and an ornate dome, rivaling some of the cathedrals we’ve seen. The history exhibits were very nice and I love learning about the medieval time period. There is this giant hand-drawn map, the Miller’s Map of Bohemia, that took him 6 years to create in the 1700s.

The Natural History museum has one of the largest paleontology exhibits in the world, contains a great many fossils and such. Trilobites! There is also a giant exhibit of minerals, gems, and meteorites, that’s right – meteors! I have literally zero knowledge about minerology, but at the least it’s beautiful to look at, row upon row of brightly colored and interestingly shaped minerals and gems. There is also an exhibit about evolution of animals dating back to prehistory and has replicas of creatures like wooly mammoths and such.

Walked over to the Astronomical clock. Prague is a lovely town to walk in. Lots of cobblestones, though. Apparently Prague was largely spared during bombings in WWII so many of the old buildings remained intact. The clock is pretty cool to look at it. It’s the oldest mechanical astronomical clock in operation and it shows the position of the sun and moon etc. in addition to the time. We happened to be there about the top of the hour when it does this thing where the bell rings and mechanical figures of the 12 apostles show through the windows. Why I'm not sure. Nick says 12 coincides with signs of the Zodiac, 12 months in a year, etc. 12 is an important number.

The crowds are not that bad. There are definitely some crowds, but not oppressive. The Church of Our Lady before Tyn is also right there, but it is closed between noon and 3:00 pm.

Made the walk over to the Prague Castle. Google maps brought us across a different bridge but that was kind of nice because we got to see the Charles bridge from a distance. The walk up to the castle is very steep, was definitely huffing and puffing on the way. Basically there are two different series of steps leading up, one on each side of the very large castle complex. We went on one side and then walked through to the St. Vitus Cathedral and then the castle where there are the changing of the guards at the top of each hour, and then there are the other steps on that side of the complex. St. Vitus is breathtaking. (There are also many prominent people, royalty, bishops etc. buried here.) We didn’t see the changing of the guard, though. Should have timed our arrival better.

There are other museums to see in the complex, but I was starting to fade with this stupid cold, so wanted to head back to the apartment. Right after we got to the bottom of the steps, we saw this old medieval tavern and apparently it’s been in operation since the 1300s. So cold be damned, we had to stop in (I guess we see where my priorities are, haha) and it was pretty cool. It’s called U Krale and it’s all wooden tables and chairs and only candlelight. We walked across the Charles bridge this time. It’s pedestrian only and there are lots of kiosks with people selling souvenirs and offering caricature drawings.

Tomorrow is our last day!

Posted by
165 posts

You made it! And what a lovely couple of days -- minus the cold (boo!). Enjoy your last day :)

If you're taking requests (lol), I'd so love a recap post after you get home and settled: favorite parts of your trip, any disappointments, lessons learned, tips to share (especially for new travelers!).

Posted by
199 posts

N14 Prague

Today we walked around the Old Town area and to the Vysehrad Castle complex. In the Old Town area, we wandered into various shops to look for souvenirs. Nick bought me a necklace that has little mechanical clock pieces. Remember when yesterday I mentioned that the crowds were not that large? Yesterday may have been an off day with the colder weather and some rain showers, because today we definitely saw larger crowds. The weather was beautiful, low 70s and mostly sunny.

Then we walked to the Vysehrad Castle complex, which is an old fort that built and in and out of use since the 900s. It was a pretty long walk from where we were, but we did get to see some different parts of Prague on the way. We walked through a large city park in the New Town area that had a memorial about how the Czech Republic took in Croatia refugees during the war in the 1990s. The Vysehrad castle complex seems to be a place not just for tourists like us, but where you can come walk along the castle walls seeing really great views of Prague from many different perspectives. We saw lots of people with strollers and walking their dogs. We saw the Prague Castle way in the distance and thought, how crazy are we that we have actually walked that entire distance in the last 24 hours. There's nothing really functional here anymore like with the Prague Castle complex, other than the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, which we saw, and there is also a large cemetery here that has a mix of older tombs but I also saw one was recent as 2023.

After leaving the Basilica there were some steps leading downwards, so we figured that was a different way out of the castle complex and made our way down. Sure enough, the stairs ended at a nice rive walk path along the Vltava river. We stopped in for a drink at one of the boats on the river. Made our way back to the apartment. Just wanted pizza and to relax in for the evening.

So that’s it. That’s our Central Europe trip! I will do one more recap of final thoughts, but I sure hope this was helpful to some who are still reading. Thanks!

P.S. I wish I could be put under sedation or something for the long trip back to Denver. Haha We’ll fly from Prague to Heathrow, have a 2-hour layover, and then it’s about a 10-hour flight to Denver.

Posted by
1418 posts

Your TR is fabulous and quite entertaining.. it is giving me some ideas and practical tips for a future trip. Thank you

Posted by
2607 posts

Really enjoyable TR, MorganMurphy. Good luck knocking out on the flight!

Posted by
2640 posts

What a fun read, thank you! We head to Vienna in December,ber for 6 nights, our first time there, so will be adding notes from your report to my trip planning. I too am awful with trains, and have gotten on the wrong train a few times, so you are not alone!

I especially enjoyed the Prague portion as it let me relive our trip there. I panicked though when you said you woke up to a cold. We were there as the pandemic was just hitting the US. We live where the first documented case was, and when we were in Prague, my husband became very sick. Yup, covid. We didn't know at the time though, and barely made it home. So when I was reading your report, I was relieved for you!

Posted by
199 posts

Final thoughts:

What a great trip! We’re back after the grueling flights back, about 16 hours of travel time total. Couldn’t sleep at all and was crammed in the middle seat. I wish British Airways would use individual vents at each seat, but they don’t, so it was awfully stuffy and uncomfortable. Note for future: When traveling with two people, just get aisle seats across from each other.

Made some mistakes along the way, but this was a successful trip. I’m glad we got to experience so many great things. This is only my third time to Europe but it’s always nice to see the different ways of life, at least as much as we can being tourists. We experienced different types of food, tiny grocery stores, mannerisms, histories, monuments, castles, countryside, teeny tiny elevators (at least they had elevators, in Spain not so much), apartment living, no ice, no garbage disposals, small sinks, individual duvet covers on beds (genius!), train travel, what it’s like to walk in a city on narrow winding streets of old towns.

Favorite things we saw in each city.
• Budapest: For both of us it was walking across the Chain Bridge to and from Pest and Buda across the beautiful Danube and seeing each side from different perspectives. I’m also glad I got to see the Dohany Street Synagogue.
• Gyor: Pannonhalma Abbey outside of Gyor. Just an overall fun experience to get to it, too (even though that’s when I lost my jacket), taking the bus and seeing a different part of Hungary. And that library!
• Vienna: For me, it was seeing the opera at the Vienna State Opera house, and also the Austria History Museum. For Nick, it was the day trip we did to Wachau Valley. He enjoyed the river cruise down the Danube and walking through Melk.
• Prague: For both of us, it was the National Museum and just wandering around the Old Town area where practically every single building has some kind of statue or mural or something unique to it.

Things we did right:
• I liked that we saw all three of these “sister cities.” They were each wonderful in their own ways. Budapest has the unique Buda and Pest sides separated by the beautiful Danube, Vienna screams old royalty with the massive buildings and palaces, and Prague has the old town feel with all the narrow cobblestone streets.
• Did not try to cram too many things in each day. Each day we picked two or three main attractions to do. And that left time to just rest or stop into a restaurant and people watch or reflect on our day.
• Had patience with each other. We had some missteps, but we rolled with it. Even if there was a little bickering now and then, we just let it go to enjoy our time.

Things I would do differently:
• I would make the effort to learn each city’s public tram system. While all these cities are walkable, I feel like we could have seen even more if we could travel quicker. And we don’t have good public transportation in Denver, so it would be a new thing I could learn.
• Spend more days in each city. This is one that is always a struggle because we only have two weeks max (and I need a couple days to recover before heading back to work) and want to include as many cities as possible. But at least I’m getting better. When we went to Spain we didn’t spend more than 2N in any city, when I went to Italy I worked in 3N stays, and this trip we had a couple 4N stays. So I’m going in the right direction!
• And as a contradiction to the previous statement, we’d love to work in more time to slightly smaller towns. Gyor kind of felt like a break from our vacation. Wonder if our next trip could be made of all small(er) tows.
• Trust my gut more with getting around. I do wish we had stuck with the original plan and did the Wachau Valley day trip to Melk/Durnstein on our own and rode bikes down the Danube.

Posted by
879 posts

I've enjoyed your report. We also usually have about 14-15 nights, and your itinerary sounds just about right to me given that constraint--I'm hoping I get to try something similar out sometime. The Abbey library sounds wonderful. I made a train ticket ordering mistake on our last trip, ugh! It wasn't too costly, but still I felt really frustrated with myself and the app I used.

If you had one more night, where would you have added time?

Posted by
199 posts

If I had an extra day, I would definitely add it to Prague. Do 4N in each city, and longer in each if I had longer to spend.

Although I have to say, I'm pretty tired after 2 weeks, so I don't know how people do 2 months. If I am ever fortunate enough to do extended traveling, I imagine needing to ease it into it, like start with 3 weeks and work your way up.

Posted by
879 posts

One of our trips was 3 weeks, and we would gladly do longer trips if it weren't for family reasons. But I think we would do what some on the forum do on longer trips, which is to build in occasional low-key, more restful days.

Posted by
65 posts

That was a wonderful report! Thank you for taking the time and energy to do updates and recaps. When I’m on a trip, at the end of the day I am spent.

Decades ago, I traveled with my mom, and we went for a week to one city. I really liked that; hunkering down and getting to know one place a little better. But my husband likes going around and seeing different places. We stay 3 or 4 nights in a city, but hit 4 or more cities in a 2 week period.

Posted by
2607 posts

If I had an extra day, I would definitely add it to Prague. Do 4N in each city, and longer in each if I had longer to spend.

Glad to hear you say this. I'm spending 5 night each in Budapest and Vienna in October. Prague has to wait for a separate trip.

Posted by
199 posts

Mary, that was my exact same suggestion to Nick when we were making the itinerary. I said let's save Prague for another trip, add extra nights to Budapest and Vienna and maybe add in another 2N to a different city in Austria, maybe Salzburg. But I'm also glad we got to see Prague. It was his favorite of the three cities.

Posted by
4807 posts

Loved your report and glad you had a good time!

Yes, the thought that you approach a 2 month trip like you approach a 2 week trip is funny. I am currently 2 weeks into a 2 month trip and I definitely plan less and slower. With time it’s easy to allow days to just be and wander leisurely. With 2 weeks that is a luxury most people don't have. You did well!

And having done this trip, you know where you might want to go next, as well as how you want to go about it! We are all constantly learning!

Posted by
535 posts

"My sense of direction is trash and I get discombobulated real quick. Long story short, after we bought tickets, we walked up and down probably every single stairway in the Kelenfold train station trying to find the right platform."

I am still working my way through your trip report (enjoying it very much! I've been to Budapest. Prague & Vienna before but am returning to Budapest & Vienna via a Viking cruise in September) but I had to stop and tell you that your sentence I quoted above describes me and my husband to a T. We have a running joke "well, we've gotten on the wrong train, so now that's out of the way and we can enjoy our trip." He is not directionally challenged, and even with his compass, a paper map, and an app like Google Maps, we manage to either get on a train in the wrong direction, take the wrong exit out of a station, or get on the wrong train. And we love riding public transit, its one of our favorite things about Europe, and we feel like we're fairly experienced riders, even.
In Amsterdam in March we did it twice - got on the wrong train leaving Schiphol airport, then returning to Schiphol couldn't find the right platform at Centraal Station.

Posted by
33 posts

Thank you so much for your trip report Morgan.

We are headed to Vienna next week to visit our daughter, who moved there last year with her partner. She's getting her Masters at Uni Vienna, and (welp) is probably there long-term.

I, like you, am directionally challenged. The hubby has a very strong internal compass but speaks no German. Sooo, it's great to have guidance on the days we are on our own. We have hotels booked in Vienna and Salzburg, with ÖBB tickets to and from. We have a Viatour (I know, I know) for the Sound of Music Tour in Salzburg, and Vienna Sightseeing for the Wachau Valley trip that you described, and a day trip to Bratislava. We couldn't get tickets to the State Opera, so we are going to see The Magic Flute at the Volksoper. We will probably throw in a trip to a Hueringer too. Of course, coffee. Plus some self-guided down time (!)

All that is to say that we are considering this the first trip of many. TMI, but I'm nervous and excited for this trip! I'll report how ours went too.

Posted by
20168 posts

One clue. Transportation direction is almost always identified by the end stop. If you plug your destination into google maps they will say somethng like Tram 47 Deak Ferenc ter, 3 stops; meaning get on tram 47 marked in the direction of Deak Ferenc ter for 3 stops. If you get a travelcard for where ever you go it costs you nothing if you mess up. You just get off and look for the one going the other way.

Posted by
199 posts

WanderAndWonder, Magic Flute would have been my first choice and I'm sure the Volksoper will be lovely! I wonder if it will be a modern rendition like I saw with Marriage of Figaro or if it will be period attire. Please write your own trip report and let us know!

Your trip sounds wonderful. I would have loved to see Salzburg.

Posted by
2607 posts

MorganMurphy, you need to go on another trip so we can read another one of your fun trip reports :-)

Posted by
199 posts

Mary, I am obsessed about doing a solo trip! I don't think I can pull it off this year, though. Just as soon as I had put together solid plans, some pipes under the foundation of our house burst (really old house) and so now I'm dealing with that. ::sigh::. But I will still engage in daydreaming about a solo week in Italy - I'm thinking 3-4N Florence 3-4N Cinque Terre 1N Pisa... One day!

Posted by
996 posts

Bummer about the busted pipes - These things happen & based upon your enthusiasm, I'm sure you will get back to Europe. I'm so glad this thread is still open, so I can tell you what fun it was to read! I think I missed the bit about you losing clothing?!?

Which museums / churches did you feel you needed advanced tickets in Vienna? We've seen a major Klmit exhibit in San Francisco, so don't need that one. Thanks again!!

Posted by
2783 posts

Enjoyed your report. Just wanted to let you know that you aren’t the only one who loses coats and gets on the wrong train. I lost my raincoat in England when rearranging bags and of course had to buy a new one. And in Italy, we got kicked off the train. I had thought we could take earlier train and so seven of us got on with our tickets. Well no. It was a fast train (it did look fancier!) and we had tickets for a regional train. I tried to upgrade but was told we had to get off at the next stop!

My family still loves to tell the story-how mom got us kicked off a train (realized later we were lucky we didn’t get a ticket too!).