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Trip Report: 3N Venice 2N Orvieto 3N Rome

We had a great, if brief, 8N stay in Italy. We are three long-time girlfriends (their first time to Europe, my second) and we had a blast. Here is a brief report, in case it helps anyone with planning. Thank you to Christine H, Chani, and others who gave feedback on my itinerary. We ended up with: 3N Venice, 2N Orvieto, 3N Rome, May 8-16. We did not drive, instead took trains. None of us speak Italian, apart from a few basic words, and we got by fine. We used Euros for small purchases like gelato and some stores preferred Euros, but we used credit cards for restaurants.

For arrival in Venice, I wanted to splurge on a water taxi, but I procrastinated too long I guess because when I went to reserve tickets, they were sold out for anything close to our arrival time. I also learned (from the Tripadvisor forum) that you are no longer able to just show up and get a water taxi. Interested if anyone here can confirm. So I instead purchased tickets for the Alilaguna boat bus thing. My sense of direction is not that great to begin with, and it was a big of a challenge for our jetlagged selves to find where in the airport to catch the boat! But we made it and arrived in the Cannaregio district where our apartment was located. We had a great view of the canal. That first night, we ate dinner at literally the nearest restaurant we could find. We tried to walk around a bit to stay awake, got some gelato. But we were pretty tired, went back to the apartment, and were in bed by 8:00 pm!

On Day 1, we were lucky to have a nice sunny day, no rain. Thankfully there was a restaurant right out our front door that opened early, so coffee was available right away. People in Venice don’t seem like early morning people to me! Tiniest coffee cups I’ve ever seen but the coffee was potent. We wandered for hours. Crossed the Rialto bridge, which was extremely crowded. I had pre-purchased tickets for St. Mark’s Basilica and glad I did, as the line to buy on site was pretty long. Our tickets included the Pala d’Oro and the museum. We enjoyed it very much. Walked around the square, did some shopping. Saw the Bridge of Sighs but elected not to purchase the tour to actually cross it.

Day 2 in Venice, it rained cats and dogs. But we still took the vaporetto to Burano and then Murano. I wished I had bought a day pass in advance. I made the wrong assumption that every vaporetto stop had a kiosk to buy tickets. So we had to walk to a different station where we could buy tickets and then walk back to our actual departure station. The crowds were not too bad on Burano and Murano, at least according to the shop keeps who lamented how the rain was very bad for their business. Bought a lace table runner in Burano and some glass jewelry in Murano.

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Posted by
199 posts

Day 3 was travel day to Orvieto. I pre-purchased train tickets from the ItaliaRail website and it was super easy to use. Train travel was pretty uneventful, except we spent much of our 40-minute layover in Florence unsuccessfully trying to find a bathroom! Not sure what we were doing wrong, but I recommend you go on the train if you are laying over at the Florence train station!

Okay, let me just say: Orvieto is freaking amazing. What a lovely town. Our apartment had a balcony with a killer view of the Duomo, and we enjoyed sitting with wine just enjoying seeing people walk by. We spent the night wandering and stopping into various restaurants for wine and dinner.

Day 4 in Orvieto, we had a little rain on and off, but not too bad. We took a tour of the Orvieto Underground where the Etruscans built a massive underground area at around 800 bc. The caves are still used today as people’s cellars and basements. Highly recommend! We also went down (and up) the Well of St. Patrick. 248 steps, I think, but they are short, so it was not bad at all. A cool view looking down and back up. I recommend seeing it. Then we saw the Cathedral, with its fairly disturbing imagery of damnation and resurrection throughout. We also went through the museum. At dinner, one of my friends was brave enough to try pigeon. In later years, people raised pigeons in that underground area, and it is still a local delicacy today. She said it was delicious.

Posted by
199 posts

Day 5 was travel day to Rome. We bought some ceramics before we left beautiful Orvieto. In Rome, our apartment was near the Colosseum in the Conti area. It was raining just a little on and off, but we walked over to the Colosseum just to scope out where we needed to enter for our time slot the next day. Went in the church that is right next to the Roman Forum (the name is escaping me). Also walked over to the Trevi fountain, which was really nice, even in the rain. It was maybe 6:00 pm by this time and it was still crowded, although we were able to find space to sit for a bit. The fountain is really lovely. Also saw the Pantheon. Walking back in the rain through the Piazza Venezia, we saw the monument to Victor Emanuele II, Trajan's triumphal column, and the ruins at Imperial Fora.

Day 6 in Rome, we enjoyed a nice sunny day! We saw what was probably the most interesting thing we saw the whole trip – the Crypt of the Capuchin Monks. It’s not for everyone, though. The remains of 3000+ monks are displayed in 6 rooms in very artistic ways. These are the actual bones of the monks and some mummified bodies as well. I think it was 10 euros and included an audio guide, which I found helpful. I recommend going. This was a Sunday and there was mass going on in the church next door, so we did not go in, although I think you were allowed to enter and stand in the back. We walked down the Spanish Steps and did a little shopping. Went into the Prada store and saw a hair clip that I thought a friend of mine would love. It was $400. Ha! So, no hair clip for my friend. We had afternoon tickets for the Colosseum. I had to purchase them exactly 30 days in advance. I also bought an audio guide for the Roman Forum. Although to be honest, by this time we were pretty sore from walking (those cobblestones are no joke) and probably did not give the forum the attention it deserves. It is quite large.

Day 7 was a group tour of the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica. The crowds were incredible. For much of the museum part, we were packed in shoulder to shoulder, barely shuffling along. How our tour guide managed to keep all 27 of us together and not lose anyone is beyond me. The map room and School of Athens fresco by Rafael were probably the highlight for the museum tour. The Sistine Chapel was really amazing, even if crowded. When you enter, there are guards who immediately herd you to the center, so you can’t just enter and stop to look around. No pictures are allowed and you are also not supposed to talk, but it’s really easy to forget as you point in awe with your friends at various things. The guards periodically go on speaker and say, “Silence! No pictures! No video!” Our tour gave us a little pamphlet that described the Last Judgment and the ceiling (Vault) which was super helpful. The most famous part, the Creation of Adam, is just the same size as all the others, so it’s almost easy to miss! So much to take in, it’s overwhelming. So just be ready to strain your neck a little trying to look at everything. St. Peter’s was incredible. The scale is so massive, I didn’t take many pictures because they would not do it justice. The Pieta was beautiful – it's behind glass because apparently someone back in the 70’s who thought he was the second coming smashed it with a hammer. Again, the crowds were impressive, but you kind of just wait your turn and shuffle along to get to the front of things.

Day 8 was travel day back home. Terminal 3 at Fiumicino airport, where our flight left back to the U.S., had just one little café and – again – the crowd was large. Ha! But we managed to grab a table and have a beverage and one final croissant before we left.

Well, I hope any of this is helpful to others. Of the three cities, Orvieto was my favorite and I will be back. I also will go back to Rome as I know we did not even scratch the surface. Thanks for reading!

Posted by
2607 posts

This sounds like a fun trip. I think you saw a lot in the time you had. Orvieto is on my 'someday' list.

Posted by
7162 posts

Sounds like you had a great trip- thanks for sharing!

Train travel was pretty uneventful, except we spent much of our
40-minute layover in Florence unsuccessfully trying to find a
bathroom! Not sure what we were doing wrong, but I recommend you go on
the train if you are laying over at the Florence train station!

This made me laugh. Same happened to me- I don't know why I didn't go on the train but I really had to go once we got off. I asked the first employee I encountered where it was and he told me exactly where it was- but for some reason I still couldn't find it- I walked past it at least twice til finally noticed it- it is not well marked. We were staying in Florence so I wasn't worried about catching next train but ugh all that back and forth dragging my luggage was not fun. lol

It is a good way down the left side of tracks then off in a hallway the left- for anyone interested and IIRC it cost 1 euro- (which I did not have on me- of course!- so another helpful traveler gave me a coin ;)

Posted by
23626 posts

It would be very nice if you posted your trip report under -- Trip Reports. That way others will know where to look.

Posted by
199 posts

Oh shoot, I didn't realize there was a separate place for just trip reports. I wonder if a moderator can just move it over there.

Posted by
2607 posts

MorganMurphy you could probably just copy/paste your report into a new thread under Trip Reports and this one will just fade away as Frank suggested. Well, maybe not now that I've bumped it 😊

Posted by
33818 posts

so glad you posted.

What did you and your friends think of Alilaguna? What did you think of Venice (looking past the raindrops)?

And I saw your mention of the paintings in Orvieto Duomo. What did your friends (and you) actually think of the paintings? Had you studied up before you got there and expected it, or did you get a surprise when you went in?

(Personally, I love the art in Orvieto, love love Venice, love love Rome, and really dislike the Alilaguna - wondering your opiinions)

Posted by
199 posts

Nigel, the Alilaguna was mostly on time and a tad bumpy as we went over wakes left behind by other boats. A little crowded but I preferred to be a little crowded versus waiting for the next one!

I enjoyed Venice for sure. There are a lot of steps! I'm not much for shopping so all the shops selling kind of the same tourist items got old a bit fast. My friend bought a great dress from a local tailor. Probably the best buy of the entire trip. My favorite time was sitting by the canal outside our apartment (near the Puglie stop) having a leisurely dinner on our one not rainy day.

I had read a little ahead of time about the imagery in the Orvieto Cathedral. But what was funny is I had forgotten about them! So when I was looking at them, at first I was confused but then I got real excited! I went to find my friends and said, This is the place with the disturbing images! Ha! One side room was being used so we did not get to see the whole thing. I enjoyed the Cathedral for sure.

Posted by
33818 posts

thanks for the update.

I'm glad that the Webmaster was able to move your report...