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3 weeks in the Balkans

In August 2018, we explored the Balkans for the first time, with 17 days in Croatia, four in Slovenia, three in Bosnia-Herzegovina, and a day trip to Montenegro. This included a seven-day cruise from Split to Dubrovnik aboard the Mama Marija, stopping at six charming islands.

The region's beauty, variety and history exceeded our expectations, from mountains to the Adriatic. Here are our top 10 highlights:

No. 10: Skocjan and Lipica's Lipizzaners, Slovenia

Slovenia is a tidy country with an appealing assortment of attractions. This pair of treats near each other made a great day. Skocjan cave is known for its impressive canyon and a deep, windy gorge viewpoint. (Alas, no pictures allowed inside). Lipica is where the Hapsburgs started breeding the first Lipizzaners in 1580 (Lipica is the Slovenian word for linden trees, and is spelled Lipizza in Italian). Guests can cosy up to gorgeous purebred stallions during the tour.
 
No. 9: Lake Bled, Slovenia

When the rain cleared up, we were stunned by the beauty of  the Church of the Mother of God in the midst of the lake, especially with the castle and churches behind it.

No. 8: Dining

One of the delights of traveling is indulging in different cuisines. Among our best experiences was on the island of Vis off Croatia, where we had the traditional "Peka" fish, baked in a large metal dish in an open fireplace.

No. 7: Towers, fortresses and walls!

If there's something to climb, there I must go. It's often grueling, but even I was surprised by the precarious steps at the church tower in Rovinj, Croatia.

No. 6: Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

25 years after enduring the longest siege in modern history, this capital city still is conflicted on many levels. Just as bullet-strafed buildings remain prevalent, so tensions and divisions remain sharp.

No. 5: Split, Croatia

This charming city built around the once majestic Dioclestian Palace (300 AD) features narrow cobblestone streets, a broad promenade, oodles of markets and nearby Marjan hill with its views and ancient hermitages.

No. 4: Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia

Comprised of 16 lakes and numerous waterfalls, this park excites as you stroll next to gushing waterways and soothes with its tranquil waters. But be prepared for the masses all crowding onto the  narrow walkways.

No. 4: The Adriatic Sea

Running 1,000 miles along the Croatian coast, this is one of the most gorgeously clear, blue, calm, shallow, warm and inviting bodies of water in the world.

No. 3: Rovinj, Croatia

This may be the single prettiest town we've been to, a feast for the eyes and senses at every turn. It's too bad most of the locals were so surly.

No. 2: Lukomir, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Known as the country's most remote village, Lukomir is about three hours from Sarajevo,  atop Bosnia's highest mountain. Only a few dozen folks still live the old life in this rugged, nearly untouched landscape, and nowadays, all retreat to town during the heavy snow months.

And the No. 1 highlight of our Balkan adventures: Dubrovnik, Croatia!

The wall, cliffs, sea, mountains, fortress, history, food, ships, Game of Thrones. Wow. We had built our trip around this destination and this exquisite, compact city blew us away. No wonder it is packing in the tourists: nearly 2 million visited last year (about half on ships) and more than 10,000 tackle the spectacular wall on peak days. We've learned you can't appreciate a town as a day tripper and adored the quiet moments after the cruisers/day tours are gone, and delighting in the old town from every angle.

We are mature, active, independent, seasoned travelers. We decided we would do this trip all over again exactly except for another hotel in Lake Bled!

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