Trip Report: 3 Days in Bath and Bristol

Day 2: Bristol

Because of the train strike, there were very limited lines headed to and from Bristol, so I was forced to head out a bit later than I had wanted and return a bit earlier too. Because the Clifton Bridge and train station are located on opposite sides from each other, with the rest of the attractions located in the middle of those two places, I decided to beeline to the Clifton Bridge before slowly making my way back through the rest of Bristol. Getting to the Bridge was a bit of a pain, mostly because I felt like I was being taken through some random paths by google maps, but I inadvertently got to explore tons of random neighborhoods with cool, brick row houses and lots of lush gardens, even if it took be through some of the more run-down neighborhoods. The bridge itself was cute, but because I live close to SF, it was a tad bit underwhelming for the hype. Still, there were some cool river views, though the neighborhood on the other side is a bit boring and filled with so much traffic, with very little pedestrian infrastructure to cross to the other side of the road to see the other side’s view of the bridge. In general, one annoyance about Bristol is that crossing larger streets feels impossible, and I was forced to jaywalk and barely dodged a car (which happened to other locals when they jaywalked so I felt a bit less bad about that).

From there, I checked out a church and Clifton downtown, which was pretty pedestrianized and cute, and then made my way to Spike Island, where I had spotted a cool neighborhood covered in autumn foliage along with the ss Great Britain. Since I had a bit of time, I bought tickets to the ship museum and thought it was nice, but catered towards children. I’ll admit, with the abundance of mannequins scattered everywhere in the ship, combined with the poor lighting and creaking noises, the lower decks of the ship were genuinely quite creepy. After that, I walked through the autumn foliage neighborhood and did the waterfront walking trail, which was nice and relaxing, with great views of the riverside homes and harbor. From there, hiked up to the very top of the Cabot Tower and caught some gorgeous views of the city (would highly recommend doing this) and then walked to College Green and the Bristol Cathedral for some cool pictures. After that, I had spent the rest of the time I had left just wandering around the Old City, Castle Park, and other riverfront locations, all of which were really lively and full of people since I believe there was some rugby event going on, and there lots of string lights up. It was a pretty nice way to cap off my day!

Mile Count: 16.2 miles

Day 3: Bath

Someone in my hostel had recommended the Bath skyline walk, so that’s what I had spent the bulk of my day doing, and it was amazing (for the most part)! One annoyance that I had was that the map they provide online is very aesthetically pretty but totally useless when it comes to navigating the trail, which was poorly marked. I ended up having to search for a google maps version of the trail made by a person who trekked it, and while it wasn’t exactly the same as the map provided, it was close enough. The path (which took about 3 hours for me) was beautiful and extremely picturesque. There were just tons of rolling green hills in the beginning and lots of amazing views of the main attractions of Bath, like the Abbey or various churches scattered about. I’ll admit that I was a bit confused in the beginning that the paths ran through the backyards and pastures of various farmers (I was super hesitant about passing through the first gate) since it’s something that I don’t believe would be tolerated in the US. But after getting over this minor culture shock, I mostly had a blast exploring the outskirts of Bath, from dodging the thistles and thorny blackberry vines that’d occasionally drape onto the pathway (not to mention the insects and cow dung) to taking tons of pictures of charming cottages, overgrown hedges, and stone walls. Also, there were lots of cute sheep and cows just hanging about in the fields!

I’d say that the only scary portions were the woods since the trail was slippery and hard to find at times, and at one point, I had reached an 4-way intersection where I wasn’t sure what the best path forward was since I had done the trail backwards and the signs were oriented for those doing it forwards. But I managed to figure things out and loved the lush foliage present since it’s something that I don’t see much in California. At the very end of the trail, I checked out the aptly named Sham Castle (it’s just a wall) that was pretty cute. After that, I walked the riverfront near there, checking out the lovely canalside mansions, but heading back into town, where I did the main river walk. Tons of great photos from there, and some cool dilapidated boats overgrown with vegetation. From there, I went to the Abbey and checked out the interior because I had heard that there was a giant globe in the center of the Abbey so my curiosity was piqued. Turns out there really was a giant globe in the center and got some cool pics, though the rest of the Abbey was a bit bare. From there, just went to the Royal Crescent and relaxed as the sun set before I roamed town, which was quite dead compared to the prior two days, enjoying my last moments in Bath before I had to take the train back.

Mile Count: 16.2 miles

Final Ratings:

Bath: 9/10
Bristol: 8.5/10

Concluding Thoughts:

Overall, I had a pleasant time in Bath and Bristol and thought I had done a pretty good job pacing myself despite the fact that, unlike my prior 3 weeks trip, I had not created a meticulous itinerary for each day. While it wasn’t totally winged (still created a map with all the places that I had wanted to visit on it just so that I could figure out a decent route), I think that not having a very strict schedule allowed for a bit more flexibility, which works well for smaller cities like Bath, where it’s easy to randomly wander and explore the area. While Bristol was a bit difficult to navigate, Bath was super easy to, and by the end of the first day, I didn’t really need to use google maps to figure out where the main attractions were located.

This was also my first time staying in a hostel, and it was alright. Sleep was obviously rough due to snoring and people playing videos out loud at midnight (some annoying meditation one). I was also quite surprised by the amount of people cooking. The kitchen was absolutely bustling at night. Didn’t really connect with the couple of people that I had talked to. I couldn’t tell if one of the people I talked to was messing with me or whether they were serious about what they were saying (talked about being abducted by terrorists as a child, being haunted by a ghost, being into shamanism to put said ghost into an item to carry as a friend, convinced that Nazis were everywhere, asked me if they should by a 500 pound jacket after mentioning that they were 1000 pounds in debt) all while I was just nodding along with a confused look on my face. Second person I talked to seemed nice but was a bit busy playing video games all day. Third person I talked to was in very similar circumstances as me (20, study abroad student, traveled before university began, gay), but it was obvious that we were not socially connecting since he seemed very bored whenever we talked (scrolling through phone). One thing about the hostel that I had stayed at was that there were a lot of long-term travelers / remote workers that have been there for months, so a lot of people already knew each other well, and it was a bit hard to break into the group socially, especially if you’re socially anxious and awkward like I am. Still, I gave it my best and hopefully will have better luck next weekend when I head to Edinburgh.

Pics:

https://www.canva.com/design/DAFwNUxC6cs/oDfRR9gq5sqTz1aQhws3CA/edit?utm_content=DAFwNUxC6cs&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link2&utm_source=sharebutton

Thanks for sharing. I'll look forward to following along on your weekend trips. Have fun in Edinburgh! I recently returned from there and it's a beautiful city.

Enjoyed your report! I traveled alone when I was young and had a great time! I went to Bath by train and still remember the visit vividly. Loved your photos; especially the cows overlooking the stone wall. More intimate shots like that might be your forte. Enjoy your trip to Edinburgh. A friend of mine took some great pics in an area of old town near a river.

I enjoyed your account and your photos are lovely.

Your walking outside of Bath reminded me of doing part of the Cotswolds Way a few years ago. We even had purchased ap online but still were hesitant because we were being led on a walk right through a private farm, complete with a gate! Certainly not something you would do in the USA!

I liked your report and pictures too. Don't worry about jaywalking in the UK. It's just "crossing the road" here.

Bristol is well known for its terrible traffic and poor infrastructure. Public transport is dire. Driving is slow and there’s never anywhere to park. Cycling - well you take your life in your hands. The main train station isn’t even in the city centre. People do love it here despite it all.

The history of footpaths is fascinating and well worth finding out about. Most of them have been in existence for hundreds of years and woe betide anyone who tries to ban access to a public footpath! Just make sure that you close any gates you come across and don’t ignore no trespassing signs.

For following trails and footpaths I recommend the Ordinance Survey maps. I love their large scale paper maps for the detail they show.. OS maps are now digital and have two apps. OSmaps, and OSlocate. The latter sounds like it would have been helpful when you were at the 4-way junction.

Enjoy Edinburgh.

As said above, the footpaths across the countryside have been in existence for hundreds of years. They are known as ‘Public Rights of Way’ and local groups sometimes maintain them by cutting back brambles etc.

You will find lush vegetation everywhere in Britain due to the even distribution of rainfall (normally) throughout the year. Cooler weather in winter means that many forms of plant life die back and become dormant before bursting into life again in the spring. In April, deciduous forest floors are usually covered with flowers such as celandines and bluebells.

You might find some good value accommodation in the Travelodge chain which would be a considerable step up from hostels.

Your photos look a tad under exposed (dark). Try upping the EV by a third.

@Mary (roubrat) - Thanks! Glad you enjoyed your trip to Edinburgh.

@Kathleen - Thank you! Glad you found the cow pic enjoyable. Got a bit lucky with that one since normally the cows hang in the middle of the pasture.

@BethFL - Thanks! Yeah, it was definitely a bit of a culture shock but certainly a welcome one.

@Gerry - Haha, still trying to get used to that (always feel a bit guilty about jaywalking).

@Helen - To be honest, I didn't mind the train station being a bit far, but I was quite surprised by the traffic and lack of crosswalks.

@Lesley - Wow, that's pretty fascinating. Didn't know about that, and yes, I was mindful about closing the gates and not trespassing. Thanks for the resource. I'll definitely check it out.

@James - Yeah, the lush vegetation really caught my eyes because it's not something that I see often in California, outside of the North Coast (Del Norte, Humboldt, and Mendocino). About the pics, perhaps I may have gone a bit overboard with darkening the photos since my phone has a tendency to over-light the pics a bit too much.

The screen on your phone probably auto adjusts to the light around you when viewing. Ask your friends and relatives whether or not your photos appear too dark on their computer screens.

The vegetation in the countryside is at its most greenest in May. When the deciduous trees burst into leaf they are stunning.

Really admire you getting out there and exploring. At 20 (and gay and pretty introverted as well) I don't think I would have been traveling Europe solo. My big travel adventures didn't come until I was late 20s-30s, and then always with some kind of school-related organization or study program, service project or work related. The hostel sounds almost more like a dorm atmosphere with everyone all settled into staying there long-term and not clicking with new people. I remember Bath really well from when I helped lead of group of students through England from the high school where I was teaching. Way back in 2000! Love those photos of the narrow lanes going through a "green tunnel." You saw much more of it and more off the beaten path than we did. All the best of future adventures ahead!

I love Bath! Years ago I had started to try and find the Skyline Walk and could not even find the beginning so you did really well, lol!!

I love your exterior night shot of Bath Abbey. The facade is one of my favorites with the angels climbing up and descending down the ladders! I'd seen the globe inside on a friend's FB shot but yours is really stellar!

Thanks for sharing your trips with us! What an awesome adventure!

@James - Perhaps so. Also, May in the UK sounds wonderful, but unfortunately, my study abroad program is only for a single semester, so I'll be heading back in January.

@Pete - Thank you for your kind words and I'm glad that you enjoyed the pictures! To be honest, if you were to tell me a year ago that I'd be doing all of this, I'd think that you were crazy, but I guess I've had a bit of a shift in mindset, sort-of making a vow to myself to make 2023 my year where I try to live life a bit more fearlessly and get a bit of a fresh start studying abroad. So far, I've gone further than I had realistically imagined.

@Pat - Haha, I'll admit that I got a little lost in the beginning of the Bath skyline walk. Luckily, there were a bunch of people walking the trail that day, so I just followed the lead. Glad you enjoyed the pics of the Abbey and funny-looking globe at the center of it!

Fantastic trip report and photos! Thanks for posting; I've enjoyed them.

You wrote: "my study abroad program is only for a single semester, so I'll be heading back in January."
Sorry to hear that, as there are many great places in England yet to explore with your weekend trips.

Suggestions/places you can't miss before heading home:
Salisbury--fab cathedral, medieval town, great walks through the Water Meadows. Stonehenge is nearby; take the bus out from center of town. It stops at Old Sarum on the way back to town. This is an old settlement on a hill, mostly ruined, but scenic.
Oxford--fab university town. You can stay inexpensively in a dorm room instead of in the local hostel. Take a walk along the path beside the river to see countryside & wildlife.
Cambridge--fab university town.
Canterbury-Magnificent & historic cathedral, medieval town. Stay 2 to 3 nights & take train or bus to Dover/Dover Castle for a day trip. Another Day trip from Canterbury: walk or ride a (rental) bike to Whitstable, about 7 miles, enjoy the oceanfront town, fish & chips.

I just read your thread:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/london-study-abroad-weekend-trip-suggestions
It may be a good idea to do easy trips in England to destinations fairly close to you, such as the ones I've named above.
Cheers and good luck to you.

I'll suggest a trip to the Lake District on a long weekend. Three nights stay would be perfect. Take the train from London, our train experts can give you the best directions.

We stayed in Keswick, hiked to the lake and standing stones (Castlerigg).
Our group hiked up Cat Bells mountain for a magnificent view all around

@Rebecca - Yes, it is very unfortunate that my degree program only allows for study abroad during the fall of my junior year, but thank you for all the thoughtful and detailed weekend trip suggestions! Oxford and Cambridge are definitely on the top of my bucket-list, and they are places that some of my flatmates have had an interest in visiting and were thinking of organizing a group day trip. The other two places, Salisbury and Canterbury, both seem quite interesting, and I'll be sure to look into them more. I was planning on doing a day-trip this Wednesday, but the weather in London is simply too good this week!

As for the longer day trip, thanks for your suggestion to the Lake District, and the pictures that I'm seeing online of it are lovely. Unfortunately, I'm not too sure that I'd be able to make it there. That post was made a while back, and I've already booked the majority of my weekend trips. The only two weekends where I don't have anything booked are Nov 9 - Nov 12, and Nov 30 - Dec 3, and I'm not too sure how possible it is to do the outdoorsy activities the Lake District is famous for given that cold and rainy temperatures are likely. Would appreciate any other suggestions though for those weekends!

The only two weekends where I don't have anything booked are Nov 9 - Nov 12, and Nov 30 - Dec 3, and I'm not too sure how possible it is to do the outdoorsy activities the Lake District is famous for given that cold and rainy temperatures are likely. Would appreciate any other suggestions though for those weekends!

Is York on the agenda?

@Mary (roubrat) - York seems pretty interesting (took a class on Scandinavian mythology, where it was mentioned), though it's quite far from London for a day-trip. I've got free Wednesdays and maybe could stay a night in York on Tuesday to get a long day to explore before heading back to London later on that day.

I've got free Wednesdays and maybe could stay a night in York on Tuesday to get a long day to explore before heading back to London later on that day.

Here's my recent trip report if you're interested. First two posts are York. Photos are further down the thread. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/trip-report-york-and-edinburgh-aug-sept-2023

Mary, wonderful trip report!! I just read it. It's full of great information!!

York is an excellent idea. Don't miss York!

You'd definitely want 2 to 3 nights there.
It's no day trip from London, IMHO.
A day trip would barely scratch the surface.

Will you have any time at the end of your stay in England to do one or two towns before you fly home?
That might be the time to squeeze in a trip to York.

If you're flying home from Heathrow airport, I'd suggest a short stay in Windsor.
It's very close to Heathrow.
We took a taxi from our hotel in Windsor to Heathrow on departure day for 20 pounds, a couple of years ago. It would be a little more now.
2 or 3 nights in Windsor before departure would allow you to have good walks around through the parklands surrounding the castle, plus doing a visit into the castle if you desire.

The Thames River runs through Windsor, with the Thames Path running along the river bank in both directions. Good walks either way. Plus across the bridge from Windsor is Eton to explore.

@Mary (roubrat) - Thanks for sharing your trip report! It was quite informative and lovely photos! Coincidentally enough, I had just visited Edinburgh and recognize some of the sites where your photos came from.

@Rebecca - Once again, thank you for your advice and detailed additional suggestions! I'll be spending Christmas and New Years with my family in Central Europe and Paris before flying back home from London (Heathrow but early morning), so unfortunately, I won't really have the opportunity to explore England then. Striking the balance between traveling the UK and traveling the rest of Europe has been so tricky because I'm being pulled between utilizing my extended time in the UK to explore it deeply vs. utilizing my extended time in Europe to explore some of my bucket-list places across the continent.

Thanks, solotraveleurope!