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Trip Report: 3.5 Days in Lisbon and Sintra

Hey everyone! I’m sure you all know the drill, but I (20M) am the study abroad student in London who’s attempting to travel as much as possible during my time in Europe. This weekend (plus an unexpected additional half-day) I went to Lisbon. Portugal was one of the countries that I most wanted to visit, so I was excited at the prospect of spending 10 days there during my reading week. Unfortunately for me, the department that the classes I’m enrolled in does not have a reading week, so I had to split my planned trip in half across two separate weekends a month apart. Here’s Lisbon and as always, mile counts are added below:

Day 1: Lisbon

Because the beauty of Lisbon comes from just walking around the city and exploring the various viewpoints of the city, that’s exactly what I had spent the bulk of the first day doing. In the morning, I wandered aimlessly throughout the hilly Barrio Alto before honing in on the Miradouro Sao Pedro de Alcantara. There were some cute fountains and gardens on the balcony and of course, beautiful views of the city with the castle looming in the distance. From there, I passed by an interesting church before looping back down to the Praca Luis de Camoes and strolling down the streets before I reached Rossio Square, which had some lovely fountain-show going on and had some great views of both the simple but pretty architecture of Lisbon’s golden and white colored buildings but also of the Carmen Convent rising up from behind the buildings. After a bit of exploring the lively streets and briefly glancing at the prominent elevator, I made it to the aforementioned Convent and checked it out. Unfortunately, repair work blocked off views of a portion of the Convent, but I loved how skeletal the remains of the Convent looked like, with stark, swooping arches that probably used to support a grand hall of some sorts. Afterwards, I made my way to a viewpoint near the Convent that gave great views of Lisbon’s dense streets and buildings before heading down to the Placa de Comercio alongside the coastline. It’s a large, gorgeous plaza flanked by bright, golden colored buildings with elegant arched walkways and a cool statue as a centerpiece. From there, I walked alongside the coastline a bit before u-turning back to explore the Alfama district, a hilly neighborhood with dense, winding roads and staircases.

I made my way to the Lisbon Cathedral, which has a castle-esque exterior with a beautiful circular, floral-inspired window, before walking to the two famous viewpoints of Miradouro da Santa Luzia and Miraduro das Portas do Sol. Both were these very pretty balconies with trellises covered in magenta colored paper flowers that nicely complemented the blue mosaics while offering great views of the Monastery and Pantheon that popped out from the sea of buildings. As the sun began to set, I made my way to Sao Jorge Castle. It’s admittedly quite a bit smaller than most of the castles that I had been to (most comparable to the one in Malaga) with a bit of an underwhelming museum compared to the detailed ones of Edinburgh castle, but it more than makes up for it with stunning views of the city. Because it was cloudy around the horizon, I knew that I wasn’t going to get a stunning afterglow like Paris, but even then, at times that clouds would partially cover the sun, leading to half the sky being showered in gold while the other side being covered in darker blues. There, gazing at the thin band of orange on the horizon as the crescent moon glowed in the sky and the yellow city lights twinkled below me, is where I ended my first, amazing day in Lisbon.

Mile Count: 13.7 miles

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Day 2: Sintra

I’ll admit that Sintra was a bit of a frustrating experience logistically as a bit of a consequence of me winging the trip, and I definitely made a lot of transportation and booking mistakes that I’ll detail below so you guys don’t make them (though many of you all seem like experienced travelers, so not sure how useful this’ll be). The first one was right in the morning when I had accidentally referenced the weekday schedule for the trains to Sintra, an issue since weekend trains run half as often as weekday trains, and, thus, had to leave an additional 20 minutes later than I had anticipated. The second one was the buses up to the Pena Palace, which are quite scammy since they’ll deny that round trip or single trip tickets exist and upcharge you for a 24 hour bus pass that is totally useless (Not so spoiler alert: I only used the bus one time but was forced to pay 11.50 euros). The third one was that I barely missed my ticket time to enter the Palace since the road up to the entrance is totally congested and traffic jammed and it’s quite a hike up to the Palace from the entrance despite giving myself a good amount of time. And the fourth major error was when I checked the other ticket that I had pre-bought late at night, I realized that I had not bought the Moorish Castle one but Palace of Monserrate, which was really far. So yeah, not the greatest start to my day. The fifth one happened quite a bit later, but I ended up getting on the wrong train to Lisbon (meant to go to Rossio but hopped on the train to Oriente. It ended up being fine since the metro is connected to the station), which really was the cherry on top.

But transportation / ticket issues aside, I had a wonderful time in Sintra. The Pena Palace might be a bit gaudy, but I loved the fun, bright reds, yellows, and lavenders clashing together a bit chaotically, and of course, there is stunning stonework, like an intricately detailed sculpture of an octopus man holding up a window balcony covered in grapevines. The interior of the Palace was pretty with some gorgeous blue-green floral mosaics and gave access to a great viewpoint, but I’m not sure if it was worth the long wait. From there, I explored a pretty little plaza behind the arched doorways and did a small walk along the castle walls and caught some beautiful views of Portugal’s coastline in the distance and the clustered hamlets of white-washed adobe homes surrounded by lush green farmland. After leaving the Pena Palace, I hiked down to the small gardens, speckled with small towers poking out from the ponds and streams, before going up to the Moorish Castle that I had spotted multiple times from the Palace. Because it was about 3:30 pm, I didn’t believe that I would have enough time to explore the castle and make it down to the train station, so I decided to do the scenic walk down alongside what seemed like the remains of castle walls, which was quite cool, and caught some cool glimpses of Sintra from between the leaves. After walking along a creepy cobbled road lined with dilapidated and seemingly abandoned (or quite run-down buildings), I made it to the Sintra historic center, which was so cute. Lots of vivid, pastel colored buildings clinging to the forested hills and beautiful, overgrown flowering vines that had overtaken building walls and light poles. From there, I checked out the somewhat unimpressive Sintra Palace outside of one amazing room with a stunningly detailed octagonal golden dome and beautiful blue-colored mosaics. Also, I got lucky with the security guard, who let me quickly check out the small but pretty gardens for a couple of minutes after closing hours. After that, I wandered around town a bit before heading back to Lisbon, where I went to my hostel’s dinner and had a lovely 6 hour conversation with two British guys that got increasingly interesting the more plastered they got.

Mile Count: 9.5 miles

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Day 3: Lisbon

Unfortunately, since the metro does not run all the way to Belem, I was forced to take a pretty cramped bus there. Although I arrived somewhat early (about 10:30 in the morning. I was planning on arriving earlier but got caught in a late night conversation, so decided to sleep in a bit), there was an hour long line into the St. Jerome’s Monastery. But even though the cloister is much smaller than I had expected (literally just a small plaza surrounded by a two-story building), the wait was totally worth it. Absolutely gorgeous marble work, where the arches flowed seamlessly together to form a latticework or curves on the ceilings, occasionally punctuated with bulbous seals, flowers, or snowflakes, amongst the variety of decorations. Furthermore, all of the columns and balconies are just covered with a variety of interesting details, from swirling shapes of marble that look like royal insignias to carvings of people and religious people. There were also some small rooms with displays to check out, though I think that the room with blue and white colored mosaics, lined and occasionally punctuated with bursts of golden yellow, was the most impressive. After forcing myself out (since I had much more of Belem to explore and a flight to catch later at night), I grabbed some amazing pasteis de Belen before wandering the gardens in front of the monastery for a bit and heading towards the Tower of Belem. On the way there, I made a quick stop at the Monument of Discoveries, a large monument with a large atlas plaza in front of it that appeared to be dedicated to Portugal’s history of maritime exploration. The tower of Belem was definitely quite a bit smaller than I had expected (looks like an isolated castle tower with a bit of wall attached to it), but that didn’t mean that it was quite cool. Loved how it jutted into the sea and how weather-worn the stones making up the building looked (gave it more texture) and the intricately designed balconies. Plus, it’s a really photogenic building since being surrounded by water means that it’s harder for people to pop into your shots!

From the Tower of Belem, I headed back to the monastery, where the church adjacent to it had opened, and thought it was quite nice, with some very opulent, gold-covered displays, lovely wall paintings, and cool, geometric marble work on the dome. After briefly walking further down the road to check out the Pink Palace, I decided to head back to Lisbon for the sunset. I made a brief detour to the Time Out market (lively but far too expensive for Portugal’s standards), the crowded Pink Street, and the Pantheon, a lovely church in a eerily quiet neighborhood during the evenings on my trek to the Miraduoro Sophia de Mello Beyner Andresen. I was worried that I’d miss the sunset but arrived just in time, where despite the thick cloud cover, there were patches of exposed sky painted in golden hour lighting. It was another viewpoint with amazing views of the warm red-orange roofs of Lisbon’s pretty adobe houses, and also especially of the castle, which appeared to rise out of the tangle of buildings around its base. As the sun continued to set, the clouds in the sky took on a darker, more melancholic pink hue as the city lit up below me. And I thought that’d be my last view of Lisbon as I rushed towards the airport to catch my flight. Unfortunately, while I was on the metro there, I was notified of minor delays to my flight that became increasingly significant until it was revealed that my flight was canceled (the airline employee said “significantly delayed” but the flight board begged to differ) and that I’d have to fly out tomorrow afternoon. Luckily, I had no mandatory classes that Monday, but I did have to scramble to find a plan for university course registrations since it just so happened that my registration time slot landed flat in the middle of the flight. Luckily, I was able to sort everything out.

Mile Count: 12.3 miles

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(Unexpected) Day 4: Lisbon

Because I only had a half-day extra in Lisbon, I knew that I didn’t have much time to revisit Belem or take a side trip to somewhere like Cascais, so I decided to just aimlessly walk around Lisbon since most of the museums / attractions were closed. I visited the Igresia de São Domingo, which was a pretty basic European church (which is to say it was quite nice), except for the cool, reddish-pink colored walls that popped out. From there, I went up the viewpoints I had gone to on Day 1 to see whether I could catch some sunny views of scenic Lisbon given that there weren’t as many clouds today compared to prior days. Unfortunately, the clouds rolled in during my walk up, and although there were patches of blue in the sky, the view looked pretty similar to the prior days. Luckily, during my walk down to the Placa de Comercio, the sky just suddenly cleared up, so I ended up splurging and getting a ticket to the top of the Arch. As expected, just amazing views from up there, especially of the bridge with Lisbons’s colorful, dense adobe homes in the foreground, whose pastel colors were so bright and vivid with the sunlight and blue skies. It's also funny how Europe has just so many cranes, but I suppose they’re a natural part of the urban landscape, and I got some great photos of the castle and Lisbon Cathedral surrounded by clusters of buildings that rose up with the hills. Although this was not the final view of Lisbon that I had expected, it at least allowed me to experience a bit of sunny weather in what is supposedly the sunniest capital in Europe after a weekend of scattered showers.

Mile Count: 7.6 miles

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Final Ratings:

Lisbon: 9.25/10
Sintra: 8/10

Overall Thoughts:

Despite the logistical issues that plagued me throughout the trip, some of which are my own doing and others of which I had no control of, I really enjoyed Lisbon. It honestly reminded me so much of San Francisco (which reminds me of home since I’m from the Bay Area and go to college close by to SF), from the Golden Gate Bridge replica to the hilly roads and tram system to the colorful row homes that you’d find in parts of SF, except that it was actually sunny at times and somewhat warm, which automatically make it better than SF in my opinion. The metro system was clean, very convenient, and especially easy to use for tourists since the metro line to and from the airport links all three other metro lines and doesn’t require additional tickets, like Barcelona. Also, because of the sheer number of German, British, and American tourists there even in the shoulder season, there is a lot of English language infrastructure present, so it was easy to navigate around. And of course, the signature dessert, the pasteis de nata, was absolutely delicious and quite cheap, so I ate about a dozen or so of them across my days in Lisbon. Just like in Spain, I can tell that I get perceived as a local (or at the very least Portuguese) since some workers will use English greetings for obviously British / German tourists while swapping to Portuguese for me. I even had a woman randomly come up to me and give me instructions in Spanish on how to take photos of her. It’s always a bit funny when this happens because I’m not even of European descent (I’m Asian, granted mixed-ethnicity).

As for staying in a social hostel, I’ll admit that the first day was really rough. As soon as I had walked into the common room, I just felt overwhelmed by all the noise and bustle and the fact that it looked like every single person knew each other already. It sent my anxiety spiking, and I left pretty much as soon as I had walked into the room. I was obviously a bit disappointed in myself, but it really was too much. The second night was much, much better because although I was late to the dinner as a result of my train mishap, being able to begin conversation on a one-on-one scale was significantly less daunting than, say, having to break into an already established group dynamic. Had an interesting conversation with this guy about media bias that eventually led to a 6-hour conversation about a myriad of random subjects with him and his friend. One instance would be that I taught them how American football works, and they explained to me a lot of soccer club drama that is going on in Europe. It was a pleasant way to end what was a very frustrating day, and I guess I’m a bit happy that I got a bit of the classic social hostel experience of talking with a stranger for hours.

This upcoming weekend I’m once again going a bit wild and staying in a youth hostel that is even more geared towards young travelers. It’s going to be even more of a challenge than Lisbon, but I was able to get a positive experience out of it, even with the initial anxiety and shock, so I’m hoping for the best. Anyways, onwards to Amsterdam!

Pics: https://www.canva.com/design/DAFyQqoOwdo/E3Vw--GBpb_Fo1FlkMffXg/edit?utm_content=DAFyQqoOwdo&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link2&utm_source=sharebutton

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Thanks for another great trip report!! 😊 I’ve been reading and enjoying all your reports. I apologize for not taking the time to comment on all of them. Please know that these are all very helpful and the time you take to write them is appreciated.

I’m headed to Lisbon in March, so this report especially interested me. I am sure I will go back and re-read this many more times before my trip.

One quick question: For Pena Palace, as you mentioned the long wait to get inside, do you know if can you walk up and see the exterior without a ticket? Can you tell I haven’t started my in-depth research yet? 😊

And love, love, love the pictures!!!!! From all your trips. I’m newly interested in travel photography and I learn a lot from seeing other pictures.

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Hey Solo! That was an incredible report on Portugal. Really interesting and important to read your descriptions as that is probably the next European country we are going to visit if we can ever get back over there. My husband has had Portugal as his "must-do" for about 5 years now. I have researched Lisbon and the Porto region quite a bit myself, particularly since I want to do either the Camino Portugues or the Camino Frances in the next few years, and the Camino Portugues starts at a small church in Lisbon, a few blocks away from the main cathedral (some people start at the cathedral as well). The photos were stunning, and I can see why you make the comparison to San Francisco, but with warmer weather. You just keep having challenging hostel situations--although this one seems like it turned out better at the end. Hopefully in Amsterdam you will really find your niche lodging-wise! You are covering so much ground during your study abroad! I did mine at the University of Guadalajara in Mexico, but besides a school-led trip to Puerto Vallarta and a really quick weekend in Mexico City, I stayed around the host family/campus/city most of the time. Again, thanks for the report and your very vivid, detailed, heartfelt, honest narratives.

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So glad you enjoyed Lisbon. It’s one of my favourite cities, and I have often thought of its resemblance to San Francisco - if San Francisco went back in time and was European. They even have the same bridge.

I’m loving your reports.

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Hey there! Thanks, great trip report. I remembered you from the original 'Where to go on the weekend study abroad in London' thread. I recall thinking to myself that you shouldn't count on all those flights actually being on time or flying. Glad it worked out for you, sounds like you rolled with the changes and you didn't miss class! Where else do you plan to travel, how long, which airline? (If you can, skip Gatwick, now rated the worst airport in Europe for flight delays.)

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Fantastic report, as usual! Keep them coming! 😊

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I answered my own question, about seeing the exterior of pena palace, by watching this video last night:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D3-a1q9O50&t=2s

There are different ticket types and you do need one to get up to see the exterior.

I have to say, it looks more complicated than I thought to reach the palace. I originally thought I would just walk from the train station, because I had heard the buses can be crowded and sometimes they won’t stop. But this looks like quite a trek! And from the video, it appeared as if the area was not well signed.

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What a nice weekend in Lisbon. Your writing is very descriptive and an easy read. Mistake plague most travelers but it is how we handle them that makes or breaks a day. Glad to read you were able to pivot and move on. We’ll be visiting Portugal next September. I’ll be bookmarking this report to reread and not repeat your mistakes.
Looking forward to your Amsterdam experience.

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We went to Sintra last month and ran into the same bus issue. We had heard that they were strict about the window for entry so bought our tickets there. I accidentally bought tickets for the Moorish Castle. We has very wet weather in the morning—drizzle to downpour. The crowd to get in to the palace was chaotic and large. There were people who stood in the line and missed their window. Our views from the palace were interesting as the clouds were so low you couldn’t see clearly across the courtyard. We escaped to Sintra and had a lovely lunch (not raining there) then went back up to the Moorish Castle which was interesting and the view great. From there back down was easy but the stop by the Peña Palace was packed and the bus filled quickly.
Would I go back? Yes. I’d love to see the grounds in good weather and to hike down looks interesting. Hiking up? I’ll see how my knees are doing.

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@Carrie - Thank you, and no worries about not commenting on every post! I'm just glad that people are finding these trip reports to be useful. I think you were able to answer your own question, but yes, there are three waiting points, two of which they will check your tickets. The first ticket check is the entrance of the Pena Palace park and gardens (which has no lines), the second waiting point is the entrance of the Pena Palace exteriors (with long, timed entrance lines that you technically can ignore since they do not check tickets there), and last waiting point and second ticket check is the Pena Palace interiors (which have pretty significant lines and where the timed tickets some into place). And yes, there is a pretty significant amount of distance between the entrance and Palace (about 15-30 min walk).

@Pete - Thanks for your long comment. Wow, I looked up the Camino Portugues and Camino Frances, and it sounds like it would make for an ambitious but amazing experience! Glad you enjoyed the photos too. And I'm sure that your study abroad experience was amazing too, even if it's a bit different from mine, since I bet you got intimately familiar with the city you were staying at and learned so much about the culture and food of Mexico from your host family.

@Golden Girl - Thank you! And I'm glad that others are seeing the same connections to SF that I'm seeing.

@Sandancisco - Thanks, and haha, I may have forgotten that I had made that post. It felt like forever ago, and I feel like I'm much more confident when it comes to traveling now than I was then, so rolling with the changes to the flight wasn't as stressful as if it had happened when I had just began. As for future travel plans, I'll just continue along with doing weekends, so Lyon, Porto, Krakow, Ghent, and Prague, with all of them flights, except for Ghent, and probably at least one heading out of Gatwick.

@Mary - Thank you! Glad you're enjoying these

@Barbara - Thanks, and I'm glad you liked my writing and found my trip report a useful resource!

@Patty - I'm happy that you were at least able to make something out of what appeared to be also a frustrating and chaptic experience in Sintra. While I didn't get perfect weather (less of a constant drizzle and more of scattered showers), the skies cleared up enough for me to get some amazing views that I think you'd really appreciate.

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Enjoyed your report. I too did your mistake #5 in Sintra: hopped on the train to Oriente instead of Rossio :)