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Trip Report: 2 Days in Porto

Hello everyone! The (20M) study abroad student here, and this weekend, I went to Porto! I had pretty high expectations for Porto, and I can say that it didn’t disappoint. I’ll admit that I got very lazy when it came to researching Porto because I was a bit busy with essays, so this was actually the first weekend trip that I had totally winged. It was a bit stressful, but everyone went well in the end! As always, mile counts listed below as a reference for the amount of ground covered.

Day 1: Porto

In the morning, I went up to the Porto Cathedral, which has a lovely balcony with some great views of the city. One thing about Porto is that it feels older and more aged than Lisbon (which feels shiny and new by comparison), with its mossy roofs and overgrown foliage popping out of the cracks of the building that I had noticed from this vantage point. From there, I wandered the winding and narrow streets below the Cathedral, with some lovely, colorful buildings and rustic street lamps before heading back up towards the plaza around the Fonte dos Leoes, which is a beautiful, turquoise colored fountain, surrounded by an imposing university building on one side and a pretty church on the corner on another side. After grabbing some breakfast, I went to the Carmen Convent, which was the aforementioned church, since I heard that it had good reviews, even if I wasn’t originally planning on visiting. It’s cute, with a lovely little altar with Jesus wearing a sun-inspired headpiece (which is something that is strangely popular in Portugal, and especially Porto for some reason) surrounded by gold ornaments, but in comparison to the churches I’ll visit the next day, it was a bit quaint, to say the least. There are some cool displays, a somewhat interesting hidden room, and a decent but limited view from the roof–there was a pro-Palestine protest happening outside, so that occupied much of my view of the plaza.

From there, I wandered outwards, stumbling upon these gorgeous terraced gardens (Parque de Virtudades) that weren’t even mentioned in any guide that I had read, which was a surprise because it’s a fascinating park. Tons of amazing views of the city alongside the river, of course, but some great views of the homes on the sides of the hills and the overgrown vegetation cascading down the ancient-looking steps and walls. It was a nice place to catch my breath and relax a bit before heading down to the busy waterfront of Porto, which was pretty but became much more beautiful when I crossed over to Gaia, the neighborhood on the other side of Porto, which just gave these stunning views of the hilly historical center, especially since some of the largest buildings are perched atop the hill, easily visible from the riverfront. When the setting sun peeked out from behind the clouds for just a handful of minutes, it painted all the buildings with this golden light that highlighted their warm colors, from the creamy yellow walls to the oranges of the rooftops. I attempted to rush up to the Moorish Gardens to see if I could get some cool pictures while the sun was out but by the time I hiked up to the top, the clouds had once again obscured it. But that doesn’t mean that the view from on top wasn’t amazing, from the bend in the river covered in dense swathes of multicolored building that jutted out to the lights on the bridge and homes reflecting on the Douro River as the sky darkened. After heading back to my hostel taking a small break to wait out the pouring rain, I decided to get some dessert and explore Porto at night, which was beautifully lit and lent itself to some great pictures of the aforementioned churches, fountains, and plazas that I had wandered throughout the day, not to mention the lively nightlife atmosphere.

Mile Count: 15.2

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Day 2: Porto

With my second day, I explored the interiors of the various churches scattered throughout the city, beginning at Porto Church, which was close by to my hostel. The lower hallways had the gorgeous blue and white mosaics that Porto’s churches are famous for, featuring lots of intricately drawn religious imagery and text, occasionally broken up by comparatively more modest arches. The upper floors were much more open with less mosaics but some fantastic views of the towers and mossy, arched open-air hallway leading to the tower base (though the area is blocked off from visitor access). I had gotten a bit lucky in the morning, with some bright, sunny skies, with some speckled clouds, and stunning views of Porto and Gaia’s adobe roofed homes along with the famous bridge and a plaza once in a while to break up the clusters of homes. From there, I went to the church interior, which was nice but paled in comparison to what would come next, and then headed up to the Church of the Clerics, the building with the very prominent skinny but tall tower. The church was once again pretty but inaccessible due to some religious event (I visited on a Sunday), so the tower was the highlight of the trip there. Located further inland from the river compared to the Porto Cathedral, I was able to get much better views of Porto, including the cathedral that I was at just hours ago, though I didn’t luck out with the weather as the clouds rolled in and the views in the distance did get obscured. Still, I got some great views of a different perspective of Porto, with more of the same beauty, as I climbed down and ventured outwards towards the Crystal Palace Gardens.

I’ll say that it’s a bit of an oddly named place because there really isn’t a palace there, with the centerpiece being some type of indoor arena, but still, it’s a very beautiful place. Lots and lots of birds, ranging from chickens to geese to peacocks, were roaming around the courtyard close to the entrance, which had some lovely gardens and statues. But the real highlight are the views from behind the area, which once again are these amazing terraced gardens, with less of a wild feel compared to the one the day before but with much more plazas, fountains, and small semi-manicured flower patches to be discovered as you walk along the very lush and verdant paths. I will note that the terraced garden area was technically (seemingly?) closed off, though the caution tape was in tatters and everyone ignored it so I did too. Of all the little gems to be found there, I think the real highlight was the view from a small tower, which not only gave a great view of the homes, stacked atop each other, on the slope of the hill on the side of the river I was on but also of the beautiful terraced gardens and smaller clusters of homes on the other side, emerging out of the thick mist. After having to backtrack out of the gardens, I headed down to the Stock Exchange Palace. If there’s anywhere that reminds me most of Versailles, it’s this place, beginning with the more modest but still incredible central, indoor plaza, with warm, golden lighting and seals of all countries Portugal had friendly trading relationships with to lavish courtrooms with many large paintings and plaster painted as wood to the crown jewel of the palace. It was this extraordinarily detailed room, with walls covered in swirls of white waves, zig-zags, and other geometric shapes, with red and blue seals covered in arabic script, bordered by gold. Even the doors were like works of art, containing floral / nature-inspired designs seamlessly interlinked with stars, shields, and other stiffer shapes. It’s an amazing testament to the sheer dedication of the artists. From there, I went next door to catch the Sao Francisco church. If there’s one thing I’ll say is that there is so much gold in the church, coating nearly every inch of the intricately designed displays. Just incredibly opulent.

Mile Count: 11.2

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Final Ratings:

Porto: 9.25/10

Overall Thoughts:

Between the refreshingly warm weather in Porto, which was a solid 20 degrees F warmer than Lyon or Annecy at times, and the great sightseeing opportunities, I had a wonderful time in Porto and found it to be as enjoyable as Lisbon. I once again continued my streak of rainy weather on my weekend trips (that will continue in Krakow, albeit potentially with snow), though admittedly, for someone who wears glasses, the misty rainfall of Porto was a bit annoying since an umbrella can’t really block these suspended particulates of rain, meaning that just the action of walking meant that my glasses would get covered in raindrops. Though perhaps all this rainfall is needed to sustain the lush vegetation everywhere, from the terraced gardens to even the buildings themselves. I thought Sintra was the closest city to the overgrown look that I absolutely love, but Porto takes it to the next level, which is part of the reason that I absolutely adored walking around and sightseeing throughout the city. It’s just that picturesque with absolutely beautiful views from the river that were a bit better than Lyon in my opinion, I might say. It’s a bit unfortunate that I had to split up my planned 11 day Portugal trip into two weeks because my department didn’t give me a week off because I absolutely love Portugal. I suppose my only annoyance with Porto is the somewhat confusing metro system, which require you to buy zoned tickets, and I had no clue how many zones it took to get to the airport (for future reference, you buy the z4 tickets). Luckily, the person behind me knew what they were doing and helped me out!

For my hostel situation, I’ll say that it was a very nice hostel, and I think that if I had the opportunity to stay in Porto for a bit longer, I think I would have had a better time. It was a nice mixture of social and quiet, and I did have some brief conversations with other people but being there for two days meant that I was basically just in and out. It also didn’t help that I did have to finish writing an essay on the trip, so while I briefly explored Porto at night, walking through the nightlife district on a busy Saturday night, where I believe there were seemingly street dealers offering weed, I spent more time indoors. But still with these limitations, I don’t particularly have many regrets about my time in Porto.

As mentioned earlier, I’ll be heading to Krakow this upcoming weekend (Well, technically, I’ve returned from Krakow at the time of writing this because I'm a week behind). As a gay guy, I was a bit hesitant about heading to Poland at the time that I had booked the tickets because the government was run by a vehemently anti-LGBT party, but given that party has lost power in the most recent elections, I feel a bit more comfortable about it, both about safety and sort-of the morality of supporting a hostile government. I booked my hostel a bit last minute, so the one that I was aiming for was totally sold out, and the hostel with the best location is a very party hostel. Given my experiences with party hostels in Amsterdam (which I found to be a bit boring), I am less than enthused but choosing to be optimistic that it’ll turn out decent. See you all then!

Pics: https://www.canva.com/design/DAF0t5KA_2k/D4wIHKv7wyq0HgPGtgdnIA/edit?utm_content=DAF0t5KA_2k&utm_campaign=designshare&utm_medium=link2&utm_source=sharebutton

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Really lovely pictures.

How many more weekend trips do you have before you run out of time?

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Solo--good to see your latest report! I loved your description of Porto. I will probably be seeing it in the next few years either by doing the Camino Portugues (if that's the one I choose) or an overall trip to Portugal with my husband, whose mission these days is to get to Portugal (or even retire there). It sounds like a city I would really like. Glad you are going to Poland now that the right wing homophobic regime is out of power (or still in government but having to share power?). As always, wonderful photos.

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Thanks for posting and sharing the great photos. I’m anxious to hear about krakow.

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Lovely description of Porto. Thank you for the details as I am taking notes for our trip to Portugal next September/October.

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Thanks for another great trip report! Nice set of pics from this trip.

You have me wishing I had included Porto on my upcoming March trip to Lisbon. But, it will be a good excuse to return to Portugal.

Looking forward to hearing about Krakow and seeing those pics.

Like Mary, I’m curios how many of these weekend trip reports we have to look forward to.

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@Mary - Thank you! I'm approaching the end of my study abroad in Europe, so I've only got 2 more weekend trips, 1 extended 5-day trip, and then a 24-day winter vacation trip, 9 spent solo and 15 spent with my family.

@CanAmCherie - Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.

@Pete - Thank you! Wishing you the best for your future Portugal trip, whichever way you decide to explore the country. And yes, I was pretty relieved that PiS, the right-wing party, have lost control of the government to a much more socially progressive coalition. It made my trip a bit less stressful (and removed the moral dilemma of financially supporting a homophobic government by visiting).

@Lyndash - Thanks! I'm hoping to have Krakow out either before or during my upcoming trip to Belgium!

@Barbara - Glad you found this useful and best of luck with your trip!

@Carrie - Thanks! Hope your Lisbon trip goes well since Lisbon is a really nice place. As mentioned above, hoping to finish the Krakow report in a couple of days. As for the number of trip reports left, I've got 7 planned (4 weekend trips, 2 for winter vacation travels, 1 for London).