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Trip Notes: Lyon & Switzerland

My wife and I just returned from 17 days in Europe: a few days each in Lyon, Chamonix, Kandersteg, and Zurich, and 5 days in Wengen. I was struck by how much has changed since our last visit eight years ago—and how many long-held “truths” about travel in this neck of the woods didn’t hold up. We had a wonderful time, and had a few really amazing, incredible moments, and now have more than few special new memories and stories. I'm more than happy to share more details or answer any questions, but to spare you all, here are a couple of things I noticed that stood out:

Style & Fashion

Contrary to the idea that the French always dress better than the Average American, from little children to late middle-agers, most people in Lyon were in shorts, jeans, t-shirts, athleisure, and sneakers. It was around 80 - 85 degrees, but still... Baseball caps—more Yankees caps than in New York—were everywhere, and New Balance shoes seemed practically a required city uniform for men and women, young and old. Dress comfortably, hopefully with a worn pair of New Balance trainers and a Yankees cap, and you'll disappear into the crowd. Don't know if it's always like that, and rainy Zurich was a bit more formal, but that's how it was in Lyon in mid-September, 2025.

Food

Lyon’s reputation as France’s top food city didn’t quite match our experience—though that was mostly our own fault. Hopefully, your experience will differ! We set out to deep-dive into traditional Lyonnaise cuisine and that choice inevitably skewed the results. With the exception of a spectacular meal at Agastache, a contemporary restaurant full of creativity and flair, most of the classic spots we tried felt stuck in place: menus that were reliably old-fashioned French, competently prepared, but ultimately under-flavored, and overpriced. What stood out far more was the warmth of the city itself—everywhere we went, people were welcoming and kind.

Technology Trials and Tribulations

One surprising frustration was the rise of loud video calls in public—on trains, in scenic spots, even on crowded stairways. It was common enough to feel like a new travel hazard. Everywhere we went, there seemed to someone blocking our view while hollering into their phone as they tried to show the folks back home the sites in real time. Sigh. Maybe I'm just getting old.

Crowds & Courtesy

One global note: it shouldn't be so difficult to let people off a train before trying to shove your way on!

That aside, there were plenty of bright spots—families out enjoying themselves, children laughing, and strangers starting friendly conversations. As we usually find, it was the people we met that made our trip special.

Takeaway

Overall, the trip reminded me that travel clichés rarely hold up, that everyday life and culture shift quickly, and that both annoyances and moments of delight are part of the modern European travel experience. We had a spectacular time and can't wait to go back some day.

I hope this is helpful. And anyone who has had different experiences, or wants to expand on this, please do!

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Would you mind sharing where you ate in Lyon that you didn’t care for? We’re headed to Lyon next year and the Lyon food scene is one we’re looking forward to.

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@Patty: I hate to recommend or criticize restaurants too strongly because I know that any place can be bad or special depending on the day, mood, season, etc. I will say we were particularly under impressed by the Brasserie le Nord, a Bocuse Group restaurant. The food was cooked decently I suppose, but it was pretty boring and the service was perfunctory at best. We fell into the trap: we saw the Bocuse name and ended up in a touristy place coasting on its reputation. It would be heresy for me to say that the original Paul Bocuse restaurant (L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges) is anything but OMG world-class stellar, but the spin off le Nord didn't live up to the family name. My meal at Les Infidèles was really underwhelming, but my wife thought hers was pretty good. (The location was great for people watching, though.). We were only in Lyon for three nights and two days, and I'm afraid I don't remember the names of the other places we ate (other than Agastache which I already said was really, really great.) Hope that helps.

EDIT: As @zabracq said: the best food we've had in recent years has been in the small, quirky, creative places like Agastache in Lyon and Bizes in Chamonix. We didn't have enough time to really seek out those kind of places. Hopefully next time!

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@zabracq: We only had an afternoon in Zurich, but we covered a lot of ground. The vibe there felt pretty conservative and buttoned-up—lots of serious-looking men in blue suits and polished brown shoes, clearly heading to or from work. Everywhere else we went in the Alps, either in France or Switzerland, though, the energy was much more loose and relaxed. Coming from California, it actually reminded us of home: comfortable clothes, people laughing, enjoying themselves and each other, not much formality. We met and had fun conversations with people on trains, in hotels and restaurants, and on the street in English mostly, augmented by our fragmented tourist French and German. Even on the hiking trails, folks were a little friendlier than usual—normally it’s a 50/50 split between people saying hi and not, but this time it felt more like 60/40. So, yes, I'd say there's quite a difference in vibe between Zurich and the mountains.