A while back, someone posted a question if Trento was worth visiting as a stopover. I responded that I would be there if 4 weeks and report back. Here it is.
The route I chose from Venice to Trento was not the fastest, but the most direct as the crow flies, and the cheapest. It was by Regionale train to Bassano del Grappa and then to Trento. The rail line from Bassano to Trento is not electrified, so a train change is required to a diesel-electric train set. The line immediately enters a narrow valley surrounded by towering limestone cliffs typical of the Dolomites. After about 45 minutes, the valley opens up with glimpses of the white capped mountains to the north. Approaching Trento, the line goes through some tunnels which emerge about 500 feet above the city. It descends on a long sweeping U-turn into the Trento train station. My hotel, the Buonconsiglio, was just 3 blocks from the train station. This was a very modern hotel, reasonably priced (< 80 euro), with nicely designed rooms in the modern Italian style and a good breakfast.
That evening, I took the Funivia (cable car) to Sardagna. The Funivia is located a few blocks from the train station opposite the historic center. The top is perched on rock outcropping 1200 feet above Trento, which was lit up for the evening. Spectacular view of the city with many hiking trails, which time and darkness prevented me from taking. The cost is only 5 euro round trip.
For a Sunday evening, the central district was quite busy. It turned out that this was an Italian 3-day holiday weekend. The Birreria Forst, which had been recommended, was jam packed, so I skipped a big dinner and had a quick pita sandwich at a shop on the way back to the hotel.
Monday morning, I explored the historic center. The cathedral in the Piazza Duomo, is Romanesque, but the campanile sports an onion-shaped dome typical of Tyrolia. The inside was old Romanesque, about 900 years old with a central dome. The Piazza Duomo itself was surrounded by 4 and 5 story buildings, many with painted facades you would expect in Austria.
I made my way to the Piazza Fiera, where there was a large Christmas Market (Mercatino del Natale). A crowd had gathered for the opening at 10 am, and they did a count down, “10,9,..3,2,1,0!” The rope was dropped, and in a scene reminiscent of Walmart on Black Friday, the crowd rushed in. The market had all the usual Christmas Market stuff, local crafts, hand-made ornaments, and food. The PA system piped in American seasonal ditties (Elvis-Blue Christmas, Burl Ives-Have a Holly Jolly Christmas, etc). Surprising to hear these ubiquitous tunes throughout the world. Except at the Wurst & Beer Stand, where they had their own sound system blaring Tyrloean folk music.
The back drop of the Piazza Fiera is the last remaining vestige of the Medieval city wall. I strolled up the street to the Castello Buonconsiglio. This was the site of the famous Council of Trent, which began the Counter Reformation and redefined the Roman Catholic Church. Time prevented any further exploration. It was back to the hotel for check-out and then to the bus station for my continuation on to Madonna di Campiglio in the Brenta Dolomites.
So in answer to the original question, is Trento worth a stop? Yes, as I barely scratched the surface in one evening and a morning. I’d say it deserves at least a day and a half.