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Travels in Belgium: Reflections on a cow in a Belgian field (part 1; part 2 is below)

It was when I locked eyes with a white-and-black cow across the street from the Langemark German cemetery that I began to contemplate the cost of The Great War. The cow, of course, had no idea that where she was standing was once part of Flanders Fields, or that a century previous, the same spot would have been a shell-pocked hell-scape of mud and shattered men. Looking at the cow and her field of green grass, it was impossible to picture the carnage of 1917 taking place on that very same spot.

Picturing the hundreds of thousands who died there was equally impossible. Our minds are not built for innate understanding of numerals beyond the counting numbers: a million is a hundred-thousand is a billion. In front of me was the mass grave of almost 25,000 German soldiers. The space seemed too small for 25,000 bodies -- it's roughly the size of a decent Seattle backyard -- and the number too large to comprehend. 25,000 fans is a good turnout for a pro football game; 25,000 soldiers is slightly less than half of the number of American soldiers who died fighting in the Vietnam War (for grim comparison's sake, the British lost almost this many on the first day of the Somme); 25,000 days is the approximate lifespan of a Western man in 1945. And yet that number, if any of these comparisons helped you grasp its enormity, is only 1/10th of 1% of the total number human beings who died in the Great War: it is what a centimeter is to a kilometer.

Looking beyond the mass grave, past a two-lane road, past the cow and her plot of grass to the farms and house beyond, it was equally hard to comprehend another mass grave contained there. Whereas the 18 million men, women and children paid folly's price in blood by the liter and flesh by the pound, Western civilization would pay a much higher toll: the near total disintegration of a worldview that had held it together since Jan van Eyck cleaved the modern world from the medieval with his Adoration of the Mystic Lamb in 1432.

Barbara Tuchman's famous pronouncement, "and of it's kind, the last." and Edward Grey's (perhaps) quote about the lights going out all over Europe are both dramatic and pale. Like those multi-digit numbers, the cost to Western Civilization of World War I is simply beyond the ability of our modern minds' grasp. Only the most devout and ardent can still picture a world guided by the idea that ideals are paramount and divinely gifted; that the hand of God guides every political action in Europe and therefor the world; that white civilization is somehow the zenith of man's existence on Earth; that there is a clear dividing line between savage and civilized, drawn by God and race. These ideas and the certainty with which they were believed and lived convulsed and died when the first gas clouds rolled across the fields not so far from where I was standing. Most will not be missed, but the highest cost to the Western world was the loss of ideals. The idea and ideal, lived with the certainty of sunrise, that somehow Man has a higher purpose, if not to the divine than at least to to the betterment of Mankind as a whole, should not have been lost, nor was it completely. Like everything that survived the Great War, it was morphed to a new reality. But never again would there be such certainty in the cause.

(continued below)

Posted by
491 posts

Standing here in a corner of Flanders Field, I think of their world, what they lost, what cost we pay to this day for that four years of madness. I think about a poem, one of my favorites, but not the one about poppies and sunrise: I think of Wilfred Owens' "Dulce Et Decorum Est". His poem might as well describe his civilization floundering blind and sick in mustard gas as much as the soldiers whose suffering he witnessed. It is both epitaph and birth notice. The same world born of that conflict allows a white-and-black cow to peacefully munch grass in a verdant Belgian field, yet still lives on in the conflicts of the Middle East and the misery in parts of Africa. In a way, we're all survivors of The Great War, each of us living still in its long shadow, each of us still paying a small price in the form of living in a more cynical, less purpose-driven world.

A fine, cold mist starts to fall and dampens my arms, chilling me; I return to the warm comfort of the bus. Soon, our guide returns and the bus pulls on to the narrow, two-lane road, leaving behind the battlefields to the farmers and black-and-white cows grazing unconcerned.

Posted by
16538 posts

Mike, this has to be the most moving report I've yet to read on this site.
A poignant eulogy for the horrifying numbers lost in the Great War.

Posted by
8293 posts

"In Flanders Field the poppies grow, between the crosses, row on row"

Thank you, Mike.

Posted by
4602 posts

Mike what a beautiful piece of writing. To me, the quiet and peaceful nature of the area today really underscores how different it was during the Great War. I never paid much attention to the Great War until I visited Yper. And on the same trip, we were in a cemetery in a small village in England and saw quite a few graves of soldiers who had died in one of the three battles there, which made me realize what a big deal WWI was in Europe.

Posted by
14976 posts

That carnage in what became known as Flanders Fields began in November 1914 when Falkenhayn launched his incessant attacks there.

Posted by
418 posts

I became aware of the huge losses of men when we were on the "Best of England" tour. Many of the small towns we visited would have a memorial to their war dead in the center of their town. There were about three times the number of casualties from World War I versus WWII. I asked our guide about it and he said that the First World War was devastating to the population. I will be on the Eastern France tour next month which visits Verdun. I have done research on the first war and have learned a lot about how all that took place. We all need to remember our history because there are a lot of things that are happening worldwide right now that are similar to the happenings prior to the war breaking out.

Posted by
10193 posts

Thank you Mike. I can't say it any better than Kathy did.