Now three weeks into our eight-week trip and we’ve had some good weather luck along with our terrific dining finds.
Going back to familiar places (Ortisei and Venezia) and seeing familiar faces – especially in Ortisei – has been a lot of fun.
This was our 7th trip to Ortisei and the Val Gardena and our 10th trip to Venezia. Coming back to a place we’ve been many times affords us the opportunity to try new-to-us experiences (or not).
- We wanted to return to our favorite pizza place in the Val Gardena, La Tambra in Santa Cristina; However, the weather wasn’t supportive of a trip to S. Cristina, especially since it involved waiting for the infrequent night bus after dinner, so we went to our second favorite, MaurizKeller. Mauriz himself has been there every single time we’ve dined since 2012. Such attention to the business! He has an extensive menu, well-executed, and it is also nice to now that locals dine there, too. We were surrounded by regulars. Mauriz also has time to stop by and check in with every patron, quite an accomplishment in an establishment as big as this. Well done, Mauriz!
- Our favorite fine dining place in Ortisei is Restaurant Concordia. Up the hill from the main drag, Concordia is family run, intimate, and creative. On a chilly Sunday night we were one of only three tables, seated in a cozy room warmed by a traditional Tirolean stove. From amuse bouche to coffee, everything was perfection. It is one the only place we’ve been where the cervo (venison) is prepared in an elegant manner. Accompaniments are substantial too, unusual in Italy unless you order contorni. Clearly a Tirolean influence. Bravissimo to Maria & Rudi! See you next year!
- Strudel is everywhere and we gave it our best shot to include it in our daily plan. I think we did eat it three times in four days. There is nothing like hiking for an hour or so and finding a rifugio where the coffee is excellent, the strudel is better, and there’s a clean facility. So civilized! (Beats carrying your food and using the woods as we do at home!)
Moving on to Venezia, we finally found some mild weather: light jackets in the morning gave way to shirtsleeves at lunch and dining outdoors. Ahhhh, Venezia, we love you! After all these years, we finally arrived during Biennale. I have to say, I like the public (free) installations around the city better than I like most of what is at the venues you have to pay to attend. Contemporary art and I are not necessarily fans of one another.
So many people say You cannot eat well in Venezia. We have never found that to be a problem. So many choices among old standbys as well as new-to-us establishments.
Our first night we were scheduled to head across the island to a place I had been reading about, but were tired from travel and decided to cancel our reservation in favor of a neighborhood place. After three rejections (“Siamo completo) in our neighborhood, Dorsodoro, we headed to the Zattere. I figured it would be a crap shoot and we’d either have to pay way too much or find a tourist trap, or both! We got so lucky. We happened into Ristorante Terrazza dei Nobili. The wait staff was rather formal – even stiff – although the maître d’ was warm and welcoming. He may have been the owner; at least he acted like it. The food was excellent. Sarde in saor, tonnarella alla scogliera, spaghetti con seppia nero, verdure grigliate, & semifreddo. Each done perfectly. The vegetables were some of the best we have had anywhere in Italy because they were actually hot, not room temp. A little expensive (this is Venezia after all), but we had no complaints.