We wrapped up the gastronomic experience in Venezia with a stop at our old favorite, Nono Ristorto. (It is in the Rick Steves Guide.) Always a dependable pizza and this time, a nice September evening, the pleasure of sitting in the garden because I made a reservation. The walk-ins were lined up in the calle and mostly seated inside. It always pays to reserve. Show respect.
On to Assisi and Mamma mia, this is a great town to eat in!
Mr. Steves was once again our muse (aided by a quick double-check on Trip Advisor) as we wandered into Hostaria Terra Chiama before the usual Italian dining hour. This was arrival day and we had not reserved. As there were only two single-tops seated, we were given a prime table in the window. I like to think we looked happy because the place soon filled. First one couple, then another, then an eight-top brought them to almost maximum capacity with one server (owner?) and a cook. We shared a perfect tagliatelle con porcini, then pollo arrabiata for me and delightful roast pork for Ric. Happy.
We found “our” bar at Bar Sensi. All locals and us. On the second morning we were warmly greeted and by the fourth we were family.
Not knowing where we would be when we could not plan ahead for lunch, but arriving late-ish (13:45) at Osteria La Piazzetta dell’Erba worked as a strategy. Who would have guessed in land-locked Umbria we would find perfect grilled octopus? Served on crema di patate it was an elegant starter. We asked to share a portion and I swear you get extra when you as to share and they plate it in the kitchen. We swooned. The salads that followed were fine, but it is the polpo we will remember. And the honesty. I inadvertently left a small package on the table with some ceramic ornaments I had purchased. I did not discover this for a couple of days, but returning at opening two nights later, they had indeed found and preserved my package for me. Happy.
Another surprise find was Trattoria Pallotta, chosen for its proximity to our apartment after we walked 12 kilometers on a hike we had no business doing, 18 km for the day. (Man were we tired, but proud of still being able to stand up, navigate stairs, and stay awake for dinner!). Reservations really paid off although I called only a few minutes before we headed over. Walk-ins were being seated in a high-traffic area while we got a table in the back. It is a very lively place, serving traditional food but also some surprising specialties. Ric’s maiale con fichi was a tenderloin, roasted, and served with a balsamico reduction that included abundant diced figs. Very seasonal, as was my melanzane alla parmigiana. Have not had that since we left Roma last fall. We fell into bed exhausted and happy.
Regrettably, we did not find stellar pizza, but then we are not in Roma.
Off to Le Marche and hopefully some superb seafood!