Dear Rick, I am a scientist working with archaeologists in the border area between Basilicata and Puglia provinces, in the arch of the Italian boot. It is one of the greatest regions I have visited in Italy. The people are friendly, the food and wine...mama mia!!! And the landscape is dotted with hilltop towns, castles and cathedrals. Matera is a world heritage site, and will be celebrated in 2019 by a huge series of events. The Sassi is indeed unique. I have been living in Gravina in Puglia, a great town with archaeology everywhere. Among the hotels I would recommend is the Hotel Altamurgia which is right in the middle of the old city. You may have to jockey for parking, but I have never failed yet. There are great osterias, Trattorias and other restaurants everywhere. In September the weather is great, and the nearby Gulf of Taranto offers beaches that are nearly empty...in June through August they are stuffed. On the other hand in June the countryside is verdant and covered with flowers. The nearby (90 kms) extinct volcano of Monte Vulture offers beautiful two lakes, great places to hike, and camping too. This region has been a border region for a long time...Hannibal held out here, the region was fought over by Romans, Lucanians, Peuecettians, Arabs, Byzantines, and Greeks. Magna Grecia forms the southern fringe of this part of Italy. In addition, one of the National parks, The Altamurga, lies here with all kinds of opportunities to enjoy nature. Have you ever explored this region?
On to Iran...I spent five weeks this winter in Iran...I agree with you, it is one of the most wonderful places in the world to visit. I made so many friends..I already had a lot, because I teach English on the internet. Besides Tehran, I visited Sari on the Caspian Sea coast, Ahvaz in the Karoon Valley near Abadan at the head of the Persian Gulf. From there I went south to Bouchehr on the Persian Gulf, and then to Jam, where I was invited to and danced at a traditional wedding. Then it was on to Shiraz, and Persepolis. Of douse, I was doing geology as well, but my experiences were always positive wherever I went. I finally when to Urmia in the north where a beautiful lake is dying because of overuse. The food is incredible, don't be timid...and try the traditional places rather than the fast food places...there actually is a western style restaurant there called "Fast Food". And please don't just eat kabobs, khoobedah, and saltine, try the wonderful Khoreshes, ashes, and, for heaven's sake, fesanjoon! Don't let the crowds bother you, Tehran is now a city of 12,000,000 with some part of the city with over 65,000 per square mile. There are also adventure tours available. If you are up to hang gliding in the dunes of central Iran, and camping with Persian horned vipers...I had a close encounter with one myself. It just adds to the adventure. And don't forget the nomadic peoples of the south either...the Asshayar...are fascinating. Remember Iran is a nation of 19 major languages, and 52 dialects. And its people follow not only Muslim, but Zoroaastrian, Christian, Jewish, Mandeaen, and several other religions. During my stay there, I visited tombs, fortresses, bazaars, and Persian ruins. Iran is one of the most magnificent nations in the world, and because of my experience there, I would make it a must on any travelers' list. Right now there are so many Americans visiting Iran it is hard to believe. There are some great Iranian travel companies like: Pardisan Tour and Travel Agency, who will arrange everything.
www.pardisantour.net
Tel.: +9821 6643 1270
Fax.: +9821 6642 7470
Add.: # 151, Shahrara St., Tehran 1443893151 - IRAN
This group has had a lot of experience with Americans. I will be returning soon again, to continue my paleoecological research in the country, but I felt I had to tell you about my experience. My brother, Ron, a honcho at AAA in Seattle, had doubts before I left, but not anymore. Iran is a do not miss!
Posted by
Toledo, Ohio, US
11613 posts
Pewigand, thanks for your excellent report. Puglia is one of my favorite places. If you get near Castel del Monte, fond the Madre Terra restaurant, a few kilometers away. The best food I've ever had.
Posted by
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
8293 posts
I visited Iran in the year 2000 with a small tour group. It was a fascinating tour, particularly Persepolis (which our guide, Iraj, pronounced "purse-polis"). In Tehran the drivers constantly honk their horns, constantly. Our hotel room looked down onto a main street and the traffic was completely stopped and every driver was honking non-stop. Shiraz was the most beautiful city we visited, with a stunningly beautiful bridge, like something out of Persian fairy tale.
When we were leaving Iran to fly home, Iraj of course accompanied us on the bus to the airport. There was a barrier on the entry road to the airport with a couple of armed guards lounging there. We all watched as Iraj got off the bus, approached the guards and had a conversation with them. We were feeling a bit of apprehension, wondering if we would be denied entry to the airport and miss our flights home. Then Iraj and one of the guards took a little walk and we saw Iraj give the guy something and the barrier went up.
Posted by
OP
2 posts
Regarding Italy, because I have lived there about four months now of the last two years, and am doing research there with a team of Anglo Canadian archaeologist, I don't travel too much to the north, but I have done the Rome, Pompeii, Herculaneum stops. Spent about three weeks now in Rome, and have gotten used to driving there as well. It is not as crazy as it seems...it is sort of a dance, except the lead keeps shifting. Of Pompeii and Herculaneum...Herculaneum is better...it is better preserved and isn't in such disrepair. I saw Pompeii the first time in 1969...it has suffered greatly...the earthquake a few decades ago really took its toll. But you know if you want to see another Roman gem, visit Ostia Antica...the ancient port of Rome. It has a beautiful setting, is not overrun with tourist, and those that are there are primarily not American. You can explore quiet a bit without guards chasing you out either. There is also a museum there. The 60 or so mosaic floors of the guild halls are really very incredible to see. In the north San Moreno...is worth a day as well...everything is on foot, but the vistas are wonderful. Wherever you go in Italy don't miss out on the lemon granites. They are cool, and thirst quenching, especially in Summer. In the south if you get pizza try to get one that does not have a tomato sauce base, but one that has pistachio cream as its foundation, and that has a minimum of cheese., and a decent variety of vegetables.
In Iran, there are occasional check points, but no barriers. The bus drivers just take the papers in to the office, get them stamped and the bus is on the way. Remember that the current president has made increased tourism one of his top priorities. Regarding passing of money...I saw no evidence of that at all. You know I saw a lot of young people from Australia, Europe, especially eastern Europe, who traveled freely in Iran. Americans must travel with a guide or a tour group, but hopefully that might change soon too.
If you want more information regarding people's experience in Iran try visiting this blog....
http://uncorneredmarket.com/american-travel-iran/#comment-1460374
It has been set up by a young American couple who traveled in Iran and have gathered quiet a following of both Iranians and foreign travelers around them. There is a lot of useful information given there. Check it out. Oh and the best time to travel in Iran...I was in Iran in February and March...February still had some snow in the mountains, but March was beautiful, especially the Persian Gulf coast...and Shiraz. April is better for the north, because my last week in Tehran we had snow. Also, the Iranians try to have you avoid Nowruz, their New Year's festival on the 21st of March. Tehran empties out, and everyone heads to the Caspian Sea coast...the traffic is terrifyingly dangerous, and a lot of things are closed, because everyone is on vacation. May is the beginning of the hot season in the south...Shiraz, but as I said, March is beautiful and shirt sleeve weather. Iran is suffering from the global drought, but I lived off the markets, and there was never a shortage of fruits and vegetables, especially in Ahvas...near the ziggurat of Shush, and in Sari, on the Caspian Sea coast. If you get a chance, go to Shushtar, to see the Sassinad water works. The initial bridge dam was build by captured Roman soldiers when the Roman emperor, Valerian, was defeated at the battle of Edessa by the Sassanian Emperor Shapur I, in AD 260. The ziggurat at Shush is spectacular.. In Shiraz, don't miss the tomb of the poet Hafiz. It is a wonderful to see the Iranians who make a pilgrimage to the tomb. And be sure to have some fahloodeh (a mixture of rice noodles rose water and strawberry syrup) at the tea house there. For those who are interested, I have a lot of photos of Iran and Italy, as well as some videos posted at: https://www.facebook.com/ernest.wigand/photos_albums. They are open to the public. Enjoy.