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Travel to Italy & Ischia Report 8/4-8/10

I'm actually still in Italy for another week, but since we have such a long trip and I tend to write a lot I figured I would post my trip report in sections. So here is Ischia. Warning: I was an English major, I tend to ramble and this is very stream of consciousness as I'm also keeping it as my own travel journal. :)

Wednesday 8/4
We took the 2:20pm flight out of Seattle on Lufthansa, and we felt like we needed to ge tto the airport really early due to Covid and uncertainty on what the check-in process would look like… turns out we arrived before check-in even opened so we waited at the counter for awhile, and then all we needed to do was show our vaccination cards. Still glad we got there early so we didn’t end up at the back of the line, but we were maybe a little overzealous especially since we weren’t even checking a bag.

Thursday 8/5
We landed in Frankfurt around 9am on Thursday. The flight was fine although neither Nick or I slept a wink. In addition to just generally not being able to sleep on flights, this one was quite noisy--lots of people awake watching shows, playing music out loud to try and soothe babies, babies crying, etc. There was sort of a weird vibe about it, hard to explain. I wasn’t feeling great, but was keeping it together until about midway through our 5 hour layover. We spent the time in the Lufthansa lounge, and at one point I went to the bathroom and started to feel dizzy and lightheaded. I think this was a byproduct of exhaustion and dehydration, but it spiked my anxiety, my heartrate was rising, it was a pretty awful feeling. I tried to keep it together as much as I could because Nick’s anxiety can sometimes feed off of mine, but there was a moment where I really thought I might need medical care in Germany and wouldn’t be getting on the plane to Naples. I couldn’t eat, I was so anxious and nauseous even though we had barely eaten a thing in 24 hours (the food on Lufthansa was pretty awful).

Needless to say, we did get on the plane to Naples and I managed to rest my eyes a bit before we landed. Seamless entering into Italy since we were already stamped into the EU, there were no additional checks. We hopped in a cab outside the airport and headed to our accommodation, B&B MediNaples down by the port. That cab ride was… interesting to say the least. I have enver experienced driving like that before even in Mexico. But, we made it, and we promptly crashed for about an hour. I know you’re “not supposed” to do that to beat jetlag but we were dead on our feet and I was still feeling awful. We set an alarm and dragged ourselves out of bed to go to dinner at La Lazzarra. It was such a cute place and we ordered some amazing pizza, but unfortunately my nausea returned and I wasn’t able to eat much--I’m pretty sure the restaurant staff thought we were nuts when they saw how much food we left uneaten, but I just couldn’t do it. We headed back and completely crashed, I think we slept for 10+ hours and it was some of the deepest sleep I’ve ever recorded on my watch.

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Friday 8/6
We woke up feeling much better although not 100% still. Checked out of our B&B in Naples and since we were only 10 minutes or so from the port, we stopped for a cappuccino at a random bar which was really lovely and just great people watching to sit and watch Naples go by. It’s such an interesting, vibrant city even in our short time there. I know it is polarizing amongst travellers but I’d really love to return and spend more time to really develop an opinion. I found it kind of exhilarating. Our ferry to Ischia was around 1pm and things at the port were pretty straightforward once we figured it out. We did get whistled at to pull our masks up; we thought we didn’t need to since we were outside. We also both took dramamine; sitting on the ferry waiting for it to depart was a little rough on the stomach after all of the travel weirdness from the day before. We took the ferry to Forio and our hotel (Hotel Nettuno) was maybe a 10 minute walk if that. The hotel was really lovely, large room, amazing balcony with a view over the bay and the incredible sunsets. Air-conditioning worked great, we had a closet to unpack in, etc. No real complaints about the room other than we found a few ants on occasion. We wandered down to the center of Forio and had lunch at Caffe Internazionale which was solid, nothing amazing but a good solid option (I had linguine alle vongole). That first night since we were still unwinding and trying to recover from travel, Nick walked down to L’Oro di Napoli and picked up a pizza and a huge arancini and 5 euro for dinner and we ate on the balcony watching the sunset. It was really lovely.

Saturday 8/7
This probably sounds naive and silly but as much as we thought we were prepared for the heat… we were wrong. And Ischia wasn’t even the hottest place on the trip. But we tried to go for a walk today and just explore and figure out how we wanted to spend our day, and the strength of the sun just immediately hit us like a brick. We ended up walking down to the beach and then back, but we were really not dressed properly and we just didn’t know what we were getting into. We adjusted pretty quickly but that first day was rough. We had breakfast at the hotel, lunch at a random restaurant where we just grabbed panini, and then we walked to a place called Jamm’ Ja for dinner. They were pretty confused by us because we were there at 7pm and I think we were the only customers for close to an hour. It took us a few days to adjust to the late dinners in Italy! I had swordfish, Nick had a lemon pasta. Solid meal, not overly expensive. After dinner we walked back to Forio and had a limoncello digestivo before heading to bed.

Sunday 8/8
Today we decided to spend the day at the Poseidon Thermal Gardens which is one of the most highly rated in Ischia and something Ischia is known for. We had been debating about going because it is kind of expensive but after experiencing the heat the day before, we felt like spending the day there on their private beach and being able to cool off in the bay and in the pools was a good call and for the most part it was really enjoyable! The beach was crowded but we were able to find two chairs and an umbrella and spent tons of time just floating and splashing around in the bay which was amazing. Then we started to check out the thermal pools and Nick wanted to try and go to all of them, which we didn’t manage but we did get to maybe 7 or 8. It was an interesting experience. We had to wear swim caps which felt super nerdy but it was great to be in the water all day. We grabbed lunch there and it was just fine but we just didn’t feel like leaving to find something better. I’m pretty sure we got scammed on the taxi ride home because he charged us 20 euro and it was not far at all but hey, if that’s the worst that happens on this trip I’ll take it. We were pretty wiped and ended up getting more pizza for dinner--it was just so good and cheap!

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Monday 8/9
Today we had a day trip planned to Capri with a boat tour of the island with the company Capri Precious. We took the bus to Ischia Porto because the ferries to Capri don’t come all the way to Forio, and then caught a ferry to Capri around 10:45. We were pretty overwhelmed upon disembarking--again, one of those things that you read and hear about (how busy Capri is), but it’s hard to really understand until experiencing it. It was so hot and we just felt uncertain if we had made the right choice in coming to the island. But as we walked a bit away from the main strip to the wine bar where we were going to meet our captain, we felt a bit better. We shared a quick panini and some water there. Our tour confirmation said 12:30, but we hadn’t seen or heard from anyone at about 12:40 so I contacted the captain who said he was on his way, when he arrived he informed us that they had scheduled him for a 9:30-12:30 tour and thought ours was supposed to start at 1. Not a big deal but not the greatest first impression of the company. Our captain was nice and the boat was comfortable. The only slight issue I had was at the Blue Grotto. The wait didn’t seem to be too long, so we decided we would wait and go in (we had a choice here if we wanted to spend the time doing this or if we wanted to see other parts of the island). We thought we would be waiting about 15-20 minutes, but one of the grotto canoemen came over to us pretty quickly, it appeared as though he had a relationship with our boat captain. We were grateful for this but we didn’t ask to skip any lines. Once we were in the canoe, he started telling us that he expected a “special tip” because we got to skip the line, which immediately made me pretty uncomfortable but I was able to brush it off and enjoy the quick canoe in the grotto which was pretty special to see. The canoeman asked if we wanted to swim in the grotto which we knew was just another attempt to get a bigger tip and we declined. When we got back to our boat, I tried to give him a 10 euro trip in change and he immediately began complaining and saying “lady, you got to skip the line, I can make change!” I pulled out a 20 and asked for 10 back. So he got the same amount of money but managed to make us feel awkward and uncomfortable and for himself to come off like a bit of an asshole. Oh well. So, I certainly don’t blame Capri Precious for this at all but it did seem like our captain was kind of in cahoots with the guy and to be honest, we would have just appreciated him being up front. Even just saying “hey, I can get him to come pick you guys up faster if you’re okay with giving him a decent tip” would have been appreciated since at least that way we could have made the choice for ourselves and not felt pressured into it.

The rest of the boat tour around the island was lovely, we had some great swimming experiences and enjoyed getting to see the varoius grottos and rock formations. It did feel a bit cookie cutter though and I don’t think we will return to Capri based on our experience, but we also understand that it’s a place probably best appreciated either in the off season or in the evening when the day trippers like us have departed.

Our ferry back to Ischia Porto was around 4:40pm, and when we returned after a shower we grabbed dinner in downtown Forio at Spadara Bistro where I got risotto and Nick had beef cheeks. Both solid dinners but the risotto was a bit much, I’m used to having it as a side dish!

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Tuesday 8/10
Our last day in Ischia, we decided to take an excursion to Cassamiocole Terme to… do laundry! There is apparently only one self service laundromat that was open and it required us taking the bus over there, but it actually ended up being one of our favorite days on the island. Even though it seems like a waste to spend your vacation time doing laundry, we find that it gets us into a local neighborhood, we have to figure out how to use the machines which is always interesting, and we get to just chill and relax, and have the peace of mind of having clean clothes! With the heat there was just no way we were going to get more than one wear out of most of our things. Anyway we enjoyed our experience on the bus and getting to see another part of the island. After hanging out in the room for the afternoon (our favorite pasttime to relax and beat the heat), we hopped back on the bus to go have dinner in Lacco Ameno. This part of the island is where Nick’s great-grandma was born, so it was important to him that we at least were able to go there and see it. We walked through a really residential neighborhood from where the bus dropped us off to the main strip, and it was kind of cool to imagine that she may have lived in one of the houses or something similar. We ate at O’Pignatello which is a more upscale restaurant, as seemed to be the overall vibe in Lacco Ameno--lots of more upscale restaurants and hotels. The service was excellent and food was great. Definitely on the pricier side but not outrageous; I think it was still under $100 USD for two with multiple courses and drinks. The downtown area was really cute and seemed like it would be a nice place to stay for a more relaxed vibe--a bit sleepier than Forio but still plenty of shops and restaurants open. Easy bus ride back to the hotel and then it was time to pack up and get ready to head to Rome.

Overall, we truly LOVED Ischia. Even though it seems like we didn’t actually DO much, that was honestly kind of the vibe of the island. The food was great, the people were friendly, it was not at all touristy in the way that we tend to think of it--plenty of Italian tourists, but we honestly did not hear a single other American accent our entire time there, and maybe heard British English once or twice. It felt very authentic, but not intimidating as a tourist who doesn’t speak much Italian. It also wasn’t overly expensive and the transportation to and from Naples was seamless. It’s definitely high on our list of places to return--the perfect combination of a beachy, relaxing vacation but also great food and plenty of culture.

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Thanks for sharing! I enjoyed reading about your time at in Ischia. I was also on that flight out of SEA. Small world!

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I liked reading this, Rachel. Thanks for your insights and honesty. Look forward to more installments.

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We’re thinking of Ischia after our South Italy tour so this was very helpful, thanks for posting!

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Great report. The good and the bad. Lots of useful on the ground information. I enjoyed reading it.

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Thanks for taking the time to report on Italy. Looking forward to reading more.

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Wow, Ischia sounds right up my alley! And I'm with you on the taxi from the Naples airport - I have traveled in a lot "sketchier" parts of Europe with cabs and I have never experienced anything like this, the only thing that kept me from freaking out was texting my bff to give her my living will! Naples is a cool city but definitely requires you to be on your toes in general! Great report, hope to read more soon!

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Thank you for your wonderfully described report! I’m wondering how it felt to eat indoors, and any other considerations regarding this spreading Delta variant? Were there times when you felt uncomfortable and exposed? Like on the train to Rome (or did you fly)? We’re trying to decide whether or not to cancel our trip to Italy in later Sept. Thank you!

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Thanks for the report. We are think kinking of spending a few days there after our Best of South Italy tour in 2022. It sounds like the perfect place to wind down after a couple of back-to-back Italy tours. We'll be there in October so I hope it won't be so hot. Would you go back to Forio or would you choose another town if you went back?

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Thanks so much for the feedback everyone! Sorry for my delayed response; we just got back to the US last night!

Sofen, we never felt uncomfortable eating indoors because we knew that everyone around us had the green pass. They were very diligent about checking them. Trenitalia is still not booking to full capacity, so none of our high-speed trains, like the one we took to Rome, were very full. And mask wearing compliance is at 100%. So for that reason, we did not feel uncomfortable on the trains. The same for the metro in Rome and most other forms of transportation we took--nothing was super crowded. The only exception were the Cinque Terre Express trains which were pretty packed full, but even still, everyone was wearing a mask. It's definitely up to your own risk tolerance of course, but personally I would say to go!

Jim, I definitely think Ischia would be a great place to unwind! And would probably be much quieter in October. We really loved Forio and would definitely stay there again. It felt lively enough without being overwhelming, and we had an easy time using the bus to get around when we wanted. It's also the side of the island that gets the most sun throughout the day, so if you'd be spending any time on the beach, that might be something to consider. I would say the only exception might be if you planned to take many day trips off the island, like to Capri or to the Amalfi Coast, because those ferries seem to leave only from Ischia Porto. On the flip side, most of the island tours we saw that take you around Ischia itself made a stop in Forio so you could easily catch one of those tours if you were interested in that. We did not do one but would like to when we return. :)

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Hi Rachael,

Thanks for taking the time to write such a wonderful trip report!

Ischia has been on my radar, and I’m bookmarking your post for future reference!

Question:
Did you buy the swim cap there?

I’ve not worn a swim cap since my swimming days and I always disliked wearing it!