Please sign in to post.

TR - Paris and SW France

Sept 25-Oct 29 2025. This will be a long and detailed trip report so if that bothers you it’s fine to skip and move on to the next thread! I have just divided this up into topics so maybe some can just skim thru and pick out what might be helpful to them in planning an adventure.

The Trip: I spent 5 weeks in France, leaving Sept 24 and back home Oct 29. My itinerary was to spend 2 weeks in Paris, take a train down to Carcassonne to meet up with a 2-week Seymour Travels tour, then take a train back to Paris for another week of “rest”, hahaha. As usual, I ran out of time in Paris and did not get to everything I wanted to see. I tried to prioritize outdoor gardens/walking when it was sunny so all the museum/monument passes I got really helped me be a bit more nimble when it came to switching things around due to the weather.

Tour Overview: This tour was Seymour Travels Carcassonne to the Pyrenees itinerary. It was 2 weeks with stays in Carcassonne, Leucate and back to Carcassonne for a few nights at the end. I’d been to Carcassonne for a day trip on a Road Scholar tour but had never spent time in the area. The Cathar and Albigensian Crusade history was not really a part of any history I’ve studied so that was quite interesting (and horrific!). We saw sights ranging from a huge Megalithic Dolmen to a WWII Internment camp and every time period in between!

Group: 8 people. I knew all but one, lol. Well, one I had only met online, haha. There were 2 couples and 4 solo travelers (3 women and 1 man). We had 2 guides driving 2 vans. Mark driving one van and his assistant, Paul Green who was a former Rick Steves bus driver, driving the second one. Mark is so charismatic, well-informed on history and culture and fun to be with. Paul is hilarious and had us in stitches most of the time. His presentation on the Canal du Midi was awesome. These guys have very different personalities but work really well together and provide a wonderful experience for their tour members.

My favorite sites were the Dolmen des Fades which is the biggest passage tomb in Southern France and the Oppidum d'Ensérune which is a hill fort from the 6th Century BC. It overlooks the stunning Étang de Montady which is a swamp that was drained in 1247 to a central point with radial ditches and then to an underground culvert UNDER a nearby mountain. Very cool pizza shaped fields around the center. This area was also where Hannibal camped with his army and war elephants in 218BC on his way to the Alps and Rome. Also….FLAMINGOS!! Whee! I really, really wanted to see them and while I spotted some from the train on the way to Carcassonne I wanted to see some closer and when I was not moving at a fast rate of speed, lol. Mark made sure I saw some although he said there were not as many at “the spot” as there were for the previous tour. I was so happy my tour mates were OK with 2 stops for me to watch birds on a chilly windy morning!!

Experiences: We had 4 wine tastings and a vinegar tasting! The vinegar tasting in Lagrasse was very unusual and interesting. This was a time when I wished I was checking a bag to bring home some of the variety of vinegars and balsamics (which is not vinegar according to the tasting guide!) they offered. I liked the honey flavored vinegar the best, haha. The wine tastings were from 2 different wineries with one vintner doing a tasting at our hotel in Leucate one day and then doing an additional tasting at his cellar the next day. We also could do a tasting at an interesting gypsum mine-turned-wine cellar called Terra Vinea as part of the tour there.

...continued

Posted by
866 posts

Looking forward to the rest of your report. We're in the process of planning a trip next Spring that will include SW France, so hoping for some ideas - I am already looking up the Dolmen des Fades! And yes, I find the Cathar history of the area very interesting.

Posted by
317 posts

Yay!

Have you ever watched the History channel "Engineering an Empire" episodes. I've watched quite a few in YouTube. Anyway, there is one on Hannibal you might find interesting.

Posted by
16254 posts

Thanks so much! I had a glitch when I tried to post on Saturday and had to have help from Webmaster Andrew to get it up! The whole TR is written so I’ll get the rest posted when I get back to a keyboard.

Posted by
415 posts

I love reading your long detailed trip reports. Looking forward to more.

Posted by
16254 posts

OK...here we go...I hope! I've caffeinated my fingers so hopefully all will be well, lol.

Activity Level:This tour was not as physically taxing as some I have done of Mark’s although I opted out of one of the cave adventures which was said to be fairly strenuous.

Tour Comments Conclusion: I enjoyed the tour very much. I actually had never heard of ANY of the sites except Carcassonne so everything was new. All the sites - castles, abbeys, caves, hill forts and Megalithic sites were interesting to me and I learned a lot. This part of France is in a terrible drought. It was heartbreaking to see vineyards being ripped out due to the lack of water. I understood it is French law that if a vineyard is not to be tended it must be pulled out and burned to prevent pests from taking hold. Very sad to see big piles of vines ready to be torched all over the area. If you are wanting to visit off the beaten path (for American tourists) sites in SW France you would enjoy this tour itinerary. None of it could really be done by public transit except getting to Carcassone!

Posted by
16254 posts

The Rest of the trip and general comments:

Weather: This was reportedly the chilliest Fall in Paris 40 years! It was 48 when I landed on Sept 25. 48 the first morning. + rain! I was very happy to have packed 2 long sleeve shirts and the puffy vest! Or… I THOUGHT I packed 2 long sleeve shirts but one turned out to be short sleeve. It serves me right for having Lands End tees in the same color and both long and short sleeves. I am pretty cold hardy but this felt chilly even to me! I was having a discussion with friends who live in France and THIS is why it’s near impossible to give weather advice to travelers! It was also chillier than I thought it would be in SW France! I probably had one day where I was actually a little hot but otherwise it was on the cool side.

Wardrobe: Somehow I did not pack well for this trip and felt I was never really dressed right for the weather even though I’ve been to France in October a number of times. I packed the same things I always pack so was flummoxed at where I went wrong. Where I thought it was going to be warm, it was cool. Where I thought it would be cool it was cold. I packed my usual short and long sleeve tees although as mentioned upthread I wound up with 5 short sleeve tees and 1 long sleeve tee instead of 4/2. I also had 2 long sleeve dri-fit quarter zip layers, 2 pr of jeans, 1 pr of LLBean Vista travel pants, 1 pr of LLBean Vista capris, an Eddie Bauer Destination 2.0 Sunshirt, a puffy vest, a waterproof Gore-tex jacket from LLBean. I had 2 pr of Altra shoes, one of which was never out of the suitcase. 1 pr of flipflops which I wore every day in the hotels. Underwear, socks, pjs, compression shorts. I also packed a Columbia sunhat which I wore a lot in SW France.

What worked: I wore everything in my suitcase except the spare pair of shoes. I had a fail in July in Scotland when my Columbia waterproof jacket wasn’t actually waterproof. This trip I purchased an LLBean Goretex jacket on the advice of a friend and it was wonderful. It rained a number of times in Paris and in fact on the day before I came home I got caught in a gully washer where it rained so hard my pants legs were wet within a couple of blocks but the jacket held up really well.

What didn’t work: I did not need 5 short sleeve tees but having that number was a goof. I didn’t really need the capri length pants because it really was not as warm as I anticipated in SW France. I would probably take them again because next time it might be 80F! I did wear them in the hotel room.

What I Needed: Some kind of light jacket. Not as much as my rain jacket and/or puffy vest but more than the quarter zip drifit. A wind shell might have been good. The other 2 solo women both had jean jackets. I’m not a big jean jacket fan but honestly they wore these all the time and they were a great weight. They were perfect for the conditions we experienced on the tour.

Posted by
16254 posts

Bags:
FIVE STAR purchase! I was agonizing over the Tom Bihn Everyday Cubelet for weeks before I left home. I bought an Everyday Cubelet in blue because the one I really wanted in the new Selkie color was not available. Well, the Friday afternoon before I left on Wednesday the Selkie showed up on the TB website. I hopped on it, and went for a little quicker shipping but was not sure when it would come. It was shipped on Monday and I got it Tuesday afternoon so it went with me. It was AWESOME! It’s 5.7” (w) x 7.3” (h) x 3” (d) and weighs 3.4 oz in the fabric I got. It is perfect for me to wear on the airplane as a solo traveler (holds passport, small wallet with money/cards, kleenex, mints, a small baggie of meds and my phone) and is wearable under my rain jacket for wet days. I used it almost exclusively on the tour and most of the time in Paris. I was asked to stow it by the gate agents both on the Spokane to Seattle flight and the Seattle back to Spokane flight. I had room in the personal item so no problem but it is seriously a very small bag and was under my puffy vest. I am not an entitled person but this just made me laugh since both my bags are well under the carry on size limit. No one batted an eye on either International leg. For my daily carry this fits my phone, Anker charger+ cord, wallet with cards and €€, passes for Metro and Museums, Air pods and tether, small packet of meds, single use Wet One, tissues, mints/cough drops, pen and pencil, chico shopping bag and pop open hand fan! Some days I swapped out my Anker charger for the small sketchbook.

I also took my standard Baggallini Town Bagg - a small cross body but not as small as the Everyday Cubelet. I used this some on days when I didn’t think it would rain or if I thought I needed a bigger bag for some reason. I would have done fine with just the Everyday cubelet.

I used my Osprey Ozone suitcase for carry on and had my old LiteGear day pack as a personal item. The Osprey was at 22# when I left home which is more than I wanted but it was what it was. I did not weigh the day pack which had heavy items like my Zeiss birding binoculars and my art kit. I also had the very small and lightweight Sea to Summit ultra-sil 2.5 oz day pack. This is useful for tour days when you want something to carry a jacket, lunch and water but is really too lightweight for actual hiking. I used it everyday on tour but not at all in Paris.

Timeshifter app: Many know I’ve successfully used the Timeshifter app over my last few trips. Well I had poor sleep on the flight over even though I was in lie-flat seats. Got about 2.5 hours of sleep out of the 9-hour trip. Took a short nap the first afternoon then felt fine. On the way home, also only got about 3 hours sleep but did fine Thursday. I had a “sinking spell” as gramma would have said, in the afternoon but I hopped on the rebounder for 30 minutes and set up my Verilux light in the afternoon while I did some art and was able to stay up until my normal bed time. The combo of exercise and light is supposed to spike your cortisol which is your “wake up” signal so you are normally supposed to use the light box first thing in the AM. By Friday I felt “normal” haha, and had plenty of energy.

Posted by
16254 posts

Museums: My Paris visits are usually museum heavy. This time I tried to go to some different museums and really enjoyed them. Hotel de la Marine was very interesting - do pay to visit the whole site if you go and use the audio guide. It was a head set that was not very comfortable and I had a headache at the end from where it was pressing on my temple BUT the information was really interesting. I also went to the BNF-Richelieu Museum and that was outstanding. How have I not been here before? For those who think they might be overwhelmed with the Louvre, this is a wonderful substitute - small, doable, huge range of items and time frames from ancient papyrus to Edith Piaf’s dress. Kind of like an attic but just the really, really good stuff, lol! I also caught the Robert Doisneau photography exhibition at the Musee Malliol which was excellent. The first time I went, they were sold out…my bad for not realizing they were that busy. I bought a ticket for my next attempt and got right in. This museum also had an online audio guide so was happy to have my earbuds with me.

Museum/Venue Admission passes:
All are good for a year and I plan to be back next May so they’ll still be good.

Amis du Louvre:

Pros: Quick entry via the Richelieu corridor. Easy scan for each wing with a screenshot of the digital card. I always run into unexpected gallery closures so it’s great to be able to return for a focused visit to seek out certain rooms/pieces. I actually went 3 times during my 3 weeks in Paris and for me, I could have used another visit, lol. The first time one of the rooms I wanted to see was closed even though the website indicated it would be open.
Cons: None except the cost if you’re not a museum fan.
Cost: 95E for the Ami du Louvre card. 22E for a single entrance so with 3 visits I would have spent 66E. I’ll be back in May so will come out ahead.

Passion Monument Subscription:
Many thanks to I think, JeanM, who I think is the one I saw posting about this pass.
Pros: Got me to a couple of venues I’d not visited before. I did cover the charge with visits.
Cost: 45E. I visited the Pantheon (13E), Chapelle Expiatoire (7E) Hotel de la Marine (23E) Basilica Saint-Denis (11E) for a total of 54E. Even taking out the Chapelle Expiatoire which I only visited because it was “free” with the pass I still came out ahead. I “meant” to go to the Conciergerie but ran out of time.

Carte Blanche for Orsay and Orangerie: I had difficulty figuring out how best to purchase this since if you buy online they MAIL the card to you. Andrea from Sacramento discovered you could go to the Orangerie and get the card immediately so I did that. I had a photocopy of my passport picture (which is terrible) and took that along. The ladies looked at it and one said…would you mind if I took your picture with my phone? Great picture, quick process and bang I had my card. I went to Orsay on a Sunday. Long lines for no tickets. I was shown to door A1. Literally no one in front of me. There is a pad you set the card on to scan to get into the museum from the ti/cket/Security area. For the Sargent exhibit, again no one in front of me and did not have to walk the rabbit maze, just directly in. The museum was very crowded so I just did a few rooms on the ground floor along with the Sargent and left after about 2 hours. It felt like the old pre-Covid/pre-timed entry experience with the old Museum Pass. You know you can return so don’t need to kill yourself trying to see it all. Now, if only they had Carte Blanche bathrooms because the lines were horrendous even at the kind of hidden ones, lol. I meant to return to see the rest of the museum but ran out of energy to be with big crowds.

Posted by
16254 posts

Cost: 45E (cost is now showing at 52E but I checked my VISA and yes, it was 45E). I visited the Orangerie twice, once when I purchased the card and once when I was in the area and needed a comfort stop, hahaha! Just like the old Museum Pass days! I DID do a quick spin thru the galleries both times. Orangerie - 12.5E x 2. Orsay once at 16E. Total was 41E so did not quite break even on one trip but it was worth it to just be able to pop in.

Louvre: Got skunked one Monday when they were not letting anyone in due to a staff meeting. I waited an hour then left knowing I had enough days to come back. On my first visit, which was a Friday, there were a number of rooms that were closed that weren’t on the published closure list. They were all open when I went on Sunday so I am thinking the weekend is a better time to go in spite of the possibility of bigger crowds. This is a change of mindset for me because I have always avoided weekends. I wanted to see the Tomb of Philippe Pot which forum member Lyndash put me on to and had to go back for visit #2 to see it. Wow! I also did one visit just to see the Jacques-Louis David exhibit which opened mid-Oct and was excellent. I tried to limit my visits to 2-2.5 hours because it is so tiring but I wound up with 3+ hour visits each time.

Transportation:

NavigoEasy- Couldn't load my old pass at the station kiosk which had 3 rides left from before the fare change last January. Oddly, I could load it from my phone in the hotel room. You can also check to see how many rides you have left using your phone.

NavigoDecoverte- The app first rejected my old physical pass from 2014 on my phone but I repositioned the pass and it loaded the weekly 1-5 zones pass.

I was in Paris when I added rides/passes. I will add that in 3 weeks of using the Metro nearly daily I only got “controlled” once and that was at the La Motte-Picquet - Grenelle station. I think but I am not entirely sure that there was an announcement at the Ecole Militaire station as i was waiting for the train that there were controllers there. My French is pathetic but I thought that is what I heard so I was not surprised to find them in the transit corridor to another line.

Money: On the tour I was eating with others so decided I needed some cash as the restaurants couldn’t always split the bill.. The ATM did not give me a choice of denominations and came out all 50’s. One restaurant didn’t have change although my bill was 25€. I finally bought a few things at a Carrefour in Carcassonne and he had no trouble changing it for me. That might be a helpful thing for others in the same fix to remember. Later in the trip I still had a 50 to “get rid of” and used it at a busy restaurant on Rue Cler. The server wound up giving me all my change in 2E pieces!! The housekeepers were kept happy, lol!

Air pods/Museum audio guides for phone:
Essential! Some museums now have QR codes on paintings, others have moved to having you access a whole audio guide via your phone. Louvre exhibition for Jacques-Louis David was the fanciest. You scanned a QR code at the entry to the exhibition and then got about a dozen 2-3 minute explanations of paintings in the exhibit plus more explanation of the 3 paintings on permanent display upstairs. At the Coronation of Napoleon you could scan the painting with your phone and extra explanations popped up. Very cool!

Posted by
16254 posts

Cell/data: I have Verizon at home so just do their international plan. I was there for over 4 weeks so did the 30 day plan plus a few travel pass days at $10/day. I am not on my phone much at home but for myself it’s indispensable for travel. I use it for navigation, data for looking things up, plus lots of museums although they mostly have free wifi.

Crowds: Paris was very crowded. I saw no difference from my first day in Late September to my last day in Late October. The separate "friend's passes" to each museum helped a LOT with lines…easier than even the timed entry lines. At the Louvre you go thru separate security at the Richelieu Entrance which is less crowded. I had the longest line at the Army Museum entrance. They don’t have xray machines but have a military person doing an inspection on each bag so it’s slow. I was actually shocked there were so many people at this museum. Still no need to buy earlier than the morning of your visit and the timings are in 2-hour blocks.

Cool experiences in Paris
I went to the Order of the Legion of Honor museum at the Army Museum. In one room a guy was taking a really long time in front of one cabinet so I was just standing back waiting to scan the QR code. He started talking to me, thinking I was his wife (who had moved on, lol). When I said I don’t speak French he then proceeded to tell me one of the men in the display was the “brother of his grandfather”! He has written a book about him! He parachuted into Brittany (his home) June 10, 1944 to direct resistance forces in the area and was sadly killed a few days later. He was thrilled to be able to tell someone about Uncle Bernard Harent. I was thrilled to listen to this WWII story from a family member.

I met up with a number of forum members during my time in Paris and missed meeting up with others because of conflicting schedules. This is one of my absolute favorite things to do! I definitely have a richer social life in Paris than at home, hahaha. Forum folks are so welcoming and just plain fun to be with! I’ve known these folks on line for years and it’s truly a pleasure to spend time in their presence!

Sketching/watercoloring: I had a thread going before I left asking about whether people do their kind of art while they travel. I am just a bare beginner with sketching and watercolors and in spite of the fact that I am a light packer I took an art kit with pans of watercolor pigment, watercolor pencils, drawing pencil, sketch book plus a small sketch book that fit in my Everyday Cubelet, lol and some other supplies. I did a few outdoor sketches but managed to do something art-wise every day while traveling. This made me feel so happy and helped me to see my surroundings with a slightly different eye. The full thread is here:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/do-you-sketch-draw-paint-do-art-when-traveling#bottom

Conclusion: All in all I had a wonderful trip! I saw lots of new things both in Paris and SW France and revisited a number of things in Paris. I met up with awesome friends, had wonderful food and yes, I had some champagne, lol!! I am very happy to have seen SW France it in the detail that I did. Paris??? Oh gosh....what a wonderful place for a solo woman traveler who has no foreign language skills, lol. Yes, I'll be back!

Posted by
499 posts

Great trip report as always. It was fun seeing you on the Seattle to Spokane flight though it would have been more fun to see each other in Paris again.

Posted by
16254 posts

@Leslie - it was hilarious to see you coming down the aisle on that Spokane-bound flight! And yes, it would have been even more fun to meet up in person. I did go to the Bastille Market on the Sunday before I left. Unfortunately Monsieur Stripey-shirt did not have any color I liked in my size. He of course let me plunder thru the big box of my size shirts, hahaha.

@Lexma - I am happy to answer any questions you have about the sights we saw. The Dolmen des Fades was really cool! IF you decide to include the Oppidum at Enserune, be aware that their excellent museum closes at 12:00 for lunch and then they run everyone out of the outdoor area by 1230 so staff can leave for lunch. There is a picnic area that is not in the gated part so I'd recommend taking a lunch, eating at the picnic area and and giving yourself about 2 hours either before 12 or after maybe 2P to see the site. Nearby is a really, really cool spot called the Tunnel du Malpas. This is the crossing spot where THREE tunnel systems plus a road cross each other! The outflow culvert from the nearby Etang is channelled at the lowest level, above that is the current railroad track for the main train line running south, the Canal du Midi which was built in 1647 and then the road to Enserune is on the top layer. Very cool!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malpas_Tunnel

@Luv2Travel - done!!

@pbscd - No, I have not see that on the History Channel. I will look for it on Youtube as well! Thanks so much!

@katiecam - You are so kind!

@NWValerie - Oh gosh, thank you so much!

@JojoRabbit - You are quite welcome. Let me know if you have any questions about smaller venues. I also finally got to Cemetery Picpus (wow autocorrect really does not like that, lol!!) to see Lafayette's gravesite. When I mentioned that to the hotel desk staff he said....Oh, you should go see the plaque where Benjamin Franklin, John Adams and John Jay signed the Treaty of Paris. The building is not there any more but there is a plaque on the wall. It's on Rue Jacob if you are interested. Do NOT follow google maps or CityMapper to Cemetery Picpus as they are wrong.

Posted by
1422 posts

Pam, great trip report! I can never get enough Paris and southwestern France is on my gotta go someday list.

I'm glad you found the Passion pass useful. I agree with you on Hotel de la Marine. Great audio tour, beautiful setting but terrible headset. I remember listening through one earpiece because wearing the whole headset hurt. You didn't climb the Towers of Notre Dame?

Thanks for the tip on BnF Richelieu. It sounds fascinating. I've added it to my next time list. And I love your Legion of Honor encounter!

Your crazy fall weather was like my crazy spring weather. I was expecting wet and coolish in April and it was warm and sunny almost every day.

Thanks again for sharing such a detailed report.

Posted by
16254 posts

"Your crazy fall weather was like my crazy spring weather. I was expecting wet and coolish in April and it was warm and sunny almost every day."

@Jean - See THIS, THIS, THIS is why there is never a right answer to weather questions about Paris! I have a fear of heights so no ND Towers for me! And yes to the BNF Richelieu. It was pretty crowded on a Saturday afternoon. There were very few Americans, lots of French speakers. Funnily enough, one of the folks in the group who lives in Paris had never been there either. One of the spectacular sights is being able to overlook the reading room which you can't enter unless you have special permission. It is gorgeous!

Posted by
3536 posts

Another fun report, thank you for sharing!

Posted by
86 posts

Hi Pam, YOU should be a travel guide! You have such descriptive stories of our adventures in SW France! I’m saving your Paris accounts so that I can use them on my next trip there! It was such a delight to travel with you and get the benefit of your probing questions and keen insights! I hope we will meet again soon on another Seymour tour! A Bientot! Debbie

Posted by
16254 posts

@CL - Thank you !

@Debbie - It was such fun spending time with you and the others! We saw so much it was hard to pick out a few of my favorites!

Posted by
3729 posts

The ladies looked at it and one said…would you mind if I took your picture with my phone?

I somehow managed to keep from snorting wine out my nose - my passport photo would no doubt elicit a similar, if not identical, response. And then I teared up reading the story of the man at the Order of the Legion of Honor Museum.

Posted by
11253 posts

Pam, as usual this is a fabulous trip report. It was great spending time with you in Paris again. You were so kind to print out a picture of me for the Carte Blanche, even though the employee preferred to take a photo on her phone. I’m hoping I will be able to take advantage of the memberships I got before they expire. We shall see.

Posted by
16254 posts

@Estimatedprophet: “somehow managed to keep from snorting wine out my nose - my passport photo would no doubt elicit a similar, if not identical, response.

From Andrea’s response below you can see we had our heads together. She and her DH were in Paris, I was at home, when she found out that we would need pictures for that pass. I printed out pictures she texted me to see if that would work knowing I could meet up with her in a couple of days to pass them off. The staff had also offered to take their pictures too so I knew that when I went to get mine. They were SO sweet…didn’t say that’s the worst picture I’ve ever seen or recoil in horror, lol!

And then I teared up reading the story of the man at the Order of the Legion of Honor Museum.

Oh honestly, I held it together when he was talking but sniffed and used all my tissues thru the rest of the museum. He was so excited to talk to someone! Meanwhile, I wanted to go find a museum employee to have him talk to them! He lives in Brittany and this was the first time he’d seen the display.

@Andrea! What a fine time we had!

Posted by
6843 posts

Pam, great report, although short by my standards!

I have one comment about security at the Richelieu entrance at the Louvre. When Stan and I went, using our Amis du Louvre pass, we were waved right in and had our own private line... until security. At that point our "line" of 2 people encountered a scrum of what seemed to be hundreds of folks who had been standing in line, and definitely did NOT take kindly to our trying to merge into their line. I'm sure they must have thought we were trying to cut in.

I'm assuming, from your experiences, that this was not normal, but just wanted to pass the word.

Thanks for your great report. I'm pondering doing a day-to-day of the Seymour tour, once I get more or less caught up here at home.

Posted by
16254 posts

@Jane - I was thinking of your experience when I wrote that. In my 3 visits I did not encounter any long line in the other lane. Maybe 2 or 3 at the most so I hope your experience was unusual!

"I'm pondering doing a day-to-day of the Seymour tour, once I get more or less caught up here at home."

We saw SO much on the tour! In looking back thru my photos I'd forgotten some of it, hahaha! Plus I really forgot a LOT of what I did my first 2 weeks in Paris, hahaha!! Yeesh!

Posted by
76 posts

Pam, thank you for another wonderful trip report! I have made a note about the BNF-Richelieu museum, since I will be in Paris a bit later in November. Was also interested to hear about your experience at the Musee d’Orsay with the Carte Blanche card — I bought one for myself this year (it was delivered pretty quickly by mail) and am looking forward to giving it a try…and bypassing the lines! Glad you had such a lovely time in Paris and on the Carcassonne tour. Thx again for sharing the details with us!

Posted by
1550 posts

This is a wonderfully detailed TR and I especially appreciated your comparisons of the various Pass costs. Also, I loved your little stories of encounters with other travelers and locals. Thank you.

Posted by
10621 posts

Pam, this is such an great trip report! I read every word and loved it! Now I'm thinking that maybe I'll add another trip to France in the next year or so. I could visit my friends who live in Pau for part of the year, visit Carcassonne and also Paris. You are an enabler of travel destinations as well as bags. 😉

They were all open when I went on Sunday so I am thinking the weekend is a better time to go in spite of the possibility of bigger crowds. This is a change of mindset for me because I have always avoided weekends.

That's good to know and I will keep it in mind.

On the tour I was eating with others so decided I needed some cash as the restaurants couldn’t always split the bill.

We had that same problem in Romania. One day TexasTravelMom mentioned other times that has happened while she has been traveling, and I said, "That's weird. I've never had to pay cash in a restaurant." TTM gently reminded me that I usually travel solo, so it's never come up. Oh, yeah..

Anyway, great TR! Hope you are caught up on sleep now!

Posted by
16254 posts

@CorrieTen - I am sure you will love that pass! And remember the Orangerie for a quick but nice comfort stop. There are public toilets in the Tuileries but the Orangerie ones are far superior, hahaha!!

@Linda - Thank you for reading! BTW, he was using ChatGPT Audio to talk into to do some of the translating when it was words not in his English vocabulary.

"TTM gently reminded me that I usually travel solo, so it's never come up. Oh, yeah."

@ Mardee - Oh gosh, that made me laugh out loud. And I can see TTM doing that in her gentle manner!! The "Louvre-on-Sunday" thing really, really surprised me. Standing there in the big courtyard of French sculptures the penny dropped and I realized there is an advantage to a weekend visit. This was when I was on a mission to find the Tomb of Philippe Pot that Lyndash had put me on to!

Posted by
1345 posts

Great trip report!
It’s always a plus to overlap with you in Paris.
Love you, my friend!

Posted by
16254 posts

Awwww, Sharyn! Love you too and SO enjoy spending time with you!

Posted by
5458 posts

Thanks for the report, my daughter wants to go to Paris and is asking if we'll go with her so now it's time to start the pre-planning. So far though, Paris has been my least favourite part of France, but I'll give it another try. I think SW France in the Bordeaux and Dordogne regions is my absolute favourite so far, but I really liked Carcassonne. Everytime I think of it, I remember wandering late at night or at sunrise when I had the place to myself. The sunrise against the walls is incredible.

**I forgot to answer the question you left in my Netherlands/Belgium trip report; yes it was me asking sometime in the past about the medieval ruins in the Louvre.

Posted by
16254 posts

@Allan: "I forgot to answer the question you left in my Netherlands/Belgium trip report; yes it was me asking sometime in the past about the medieval ruins in the Louvre."

I had in my things to do in Paris list that you wanted to know that, lol....

I could see a bit of the old town from my hotel window (well if I stood at the window and craned my neck, hahaha!) and it was so interesting at all times of day and light.

If it's the crowds in Paris that bother you, the group may be able to help you with some less crowded sites for a more enjoyable visit.

Posted by
15769 posts

Hi,

Thanks for this detailed report. Not surprising that the Army Museum was crowded, always the case whenever I was there, plus it also depends on the "Special Exhibit" displayed during the summer, which is over with before the end of August.

@ pbscd...I assume you saw the statue of Hannibal in the Louvre.

Posted by
5458 posts

If it's the crowds in Paris that bother you, the group may be able to
help you with some less crowded sites for a more enjoyable visit.

No, not the crowds. I love big cities, just not Paris. I can't explain it, but I don't understand the fuss. I don't find Paris charming at all compared to the rest of the country.

Posted by
232 posts

Excellent trip report Pam as always..You make an excellent resource for RS for all things France! Thanks for all you contribute to this forum.

Posted by
4072 posts

Pam, excellent trip report as usual! I love all the detail!
What a wonderful trip and I'm glad you got in so much sketching and painting.
I would have commented before now except that I've been having computer problems.
( computer died, had to wait for the new computer to arrive.)
Best wishes and thanks for taking the time to write such an interesting trip report!

Posted by
16254 posts

@Fred - I've been there a number of times before although not the Legion of Honor museum. There was a long line fr security but I went right after 10A. When I left after noon it looked like there was little wait. I was also in the school holiday for Toussaint so there were families with kids visiting as well. I did think it was interesting that the precooked tickets come with an entry time of a 2-hour block. Obviously you are not asked to leave after that amount of time but it does bunch people up at the beginning of that time frame. I'll be smarter next time I go.

@Allan - I won't try to talk yo in to Paris, lol!!

@ncangelose - Thank you so much for your kind words!

@Rebecca - Poo on the computer problems! I did have fun with my very beginner art attempts!

Posted by
317 posts

@Fred - yes I've seen the statue of Hannibal at the Louvre! Thanks! I'm so thankful I've been able to travel the last 2 yrs.

Posted by
2981 posts

What a fun trip report! I always love to read about your travels, Pam. Now I am intrigued with SW France. Just what I needed — another place to add to the list! And I still hope to take one of Mark’s tours one day. Mind you, I have more things on my list than I will ever be able to accomplish. But it’s fun to dream!

Posted by
5731 posts

I have been saving this report till I had my coffee and was in the right frame of mind to relax and savor it. And what do I find but people talking about me…. 🤣🤣

But seriously, excellent report - I love reading your reports. I think we’ve discussed Paris before (since I sit more with Allen on the topic) but I do think it’s a great place to pull up a chair and stay for awhile. Better than for a quick visit. And Carcassonne? Oh I do need to get there.

I was also nodding in complete agreement about the flamingos! That’s how I felt about CW and Mardee putting up with me and horses in Romania!

I had to stop reading and look up the TB Cubelett. Looks like only green available now but it’s a reasonable price (I’m cheap) and a good size!

Thanks for writing this up! :) It made a good start to my morning.

Posted by
16254 posts

@Carroll - "Mind you, I have more things on my list than I will ever be able to accomplish. But it’s fun to dream!"....Oh Sis, ain't that the truth!! I think the thing that keeps popping into my mind at random moments is that I saw the area where Hannibal, his army and his war elephants camped. I am not sure why, of all the things we saw and did, that that comes back to me. Perhaps because Hannibal is one of the figures in history we learned about and therefore this made a connection? Or just captured my imagination as I looked down from the elevated location of Enserune and wondered what the heck the locals thought of the elephants. My word.

@TTM - Hahaha...we were NOT talking behind your back!! Did you watch Ted Lasso? The Roy Kent chant comes to mind....She's here, she's there, she's every...where!!

And now I have to go look for the Hannibal statue in the Louvre, hahaha. I "got" the Tomb of Philippe Pot (Lynda's) this time along with seeing a new acquisition in the same room as my favorite Vase of Alienor d'Aquitaine so I'm always up for adding things to the list. OK, I've looked its location up and did not go to Cour Puget this time. Seriously....adding it to the list! You all teach me so much!

When I win the lottery, I am going to hire an art historian to go with me to the Louvre and just do 1 room at a time with me. This sculpture gallery? I've been thru it many times before but seriously never noticed "Annibal" or if I did, did not recognize the significance.

Posted by
5731 posts

@TTM - Hahaha...we were NOT talking behind your back!! Did you watch Ted Lasso? The Roy Kent chant comes to mind....She's here, she's there, she's every...where!!

LOL! If you figure out how to talk behind your back when on a public forum, let me know. Ha! I haven’t watched Ted Lasso, but I have eaten in the pub they film in front of - does that count?

I love how we learn from each other. There’s no way I will EVER forget on my first visit standing in the Marmottan where you told me to go.❤️

Posted by
16254 posts

@TTM- "There’s no way I will EVER forget on my first visit standing in the Marmottan where you told me to go.". Awww, that is so sweet!