TR- Paris + Mark Seymour tour of Loire Valley, Brittany and Normandy

We had 2 winery tours as well as a tour of a cidre-making operation that is organically certified. Very interesting talks from all three guides for these facilities. One vintner insisted we taste the newly squeezed grape juice as they were just ending harvest. It was delicious! Note to self….tasting 10 different wines is too much for me and will make me need a nap! And yes, I prefer the Pommeau to the cidre or the Calvados.

We visited the American Cemetery in Brittany at Saint-James as well as the American Cemetery at Omaha Beach. One of the tour members has a connection to one of the 4 women buried there so was given special assistance from the cemetery staff. Here is a link to Mark’s FB story of their experience. So meaningful to them and to the rest of us on the tour.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/4B2sV1cmNn4MPSsq/

We also spent a day in Saint-Malo, toured along the Emerald Coast of Brittany, a day in Vannes, a day seeing some chateaux in the Loire area (Villandry and Azay-le-Rideau), had a walk through the troglodyte village of Goupillières, visited the WWII Submarine base and the site of the amazing commando raid at Saint-Nazaire and a day in Bayeux. I’m sure I’m missing some of the things we did!

The hotels were all good, well-located and all different. The last hotel, in the Bayeux area, was a chateau that we all would have gladly remained at, lol! Wow, it was lovely and had really awesome food (Chateau Saint-Gilles).

Mark usually does 4 or 5 dinners plus a couple of lunches or picnics. That’s enough for me. I don’t really like a big meal every night so it suits me to a tee. While I enjoy eating with the group I also don’t really go for 2 or 3 hour meals every night either!

Bottom line: The small group travel that Mark offers is 100% my style. I like that he gives a good amount of information and then lets us go explore. This tour saw a huge variety of sites - chateaux, Neolithic, WWI, WWII, cultural, food and wine. I loved every day (although I can truthfully say that since this was my 3rd visit to Mont Saint-Michel it was also my last to climb all those steps to the top!) and could not wait to see what was next! Mark is such fun to travel with! He is generous with his time and easily accessible to every tour member. Everyone takes turns sitting in the front of the van with him. I enjoyed Steve, the assistant guide, as well. He was funny and enjoyable to spend time with. He’s from Yorkshire (Halifax) but is married to a French woman and lives near Mark and Toni in Brittany. He said apparently French spoken with a Yorkshire accent is quite sexy to French women, hahaha!

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General comments on the rest of my trip:

Illness - For the first time in 25 tours (Mark Seymour’s Seymour Travel, Ricks’s tours as well as Road Scholar programs) I had to take a sick day! Got some kind of cold (negative Covid test x 3) and was just too low energy to participate one day. I hated to miss because I have terrible FOMO!! Then I coughed for another 2 weeks which sounded terrible and was wearing.

Mask wearing: Wore an N95 on the way over from the time my brother dropped me at the curb in Spokane until I got in the taxi at CDG. I had not worn one for that long in a couple of years and forgot how hot they make me especially if on the plane, you are also wearing an eyemask to block light. I wore one most of the time on the way back. When I was sprinting thru Immigration and TSA in SLC there was literally no one there so I took it off so I could breathe better! I also wore one with the group for a day or two when I got the cold.

Meds: Used Afrin as my ears got blocked last time when I flew home but I researched remedies on Dr Google and this worked great. I’m not one for nasal sprays but using this for the day before and the day of for both flights worked like a charm. Also helped me from coughing on the airplane home. I took cold meds, used them all and could have used another week’s worth. Took Airborne and used them all too. SHOULD have had some zinc lozenges as well as perhaps some elderberry lozenges. I looked at them when packing and made a conscious decision to leave them out due to the extra weight and that was a mistake.

Feet: You all know I’m crazy about my foot care. I tried a new “tool” this time, the Naboso NeuroBall. It’s a ball that looks like a small hedgehog which divides in half so you can either use it as a rolling ball or use each half dome to stand on for stretching and rehydrating the fascia of your feet. I’d been using it at home for a couple of months by having the half domes in front of my bathroom sink. I just stand on it in the 5 zones Dr Splichal recommends while I do my morning ablutions. I took it with me this time and it worked great for tired and achy feet! I also took my reliable and dependable MELT balls which I never had out of the suitcase but had as back up since I know they work for preventing a return of Plantar Fasciitis.

Workout items: Well, this was mostly wasted space and weight. I took a yoga towel, a workout band, the MELT balls, the Naboso Neuro Ball and yoga socks. I used the yoga towel a few times but honestly the French hotel floors are so hard I just could not do any yoga poses that required kneeling or lying down even if there was enough room. I just need to develop a standing routine and do some sitting/lying down poses on the bed. I only used the workout band once and my attempts to keep up with my paid subscription to a weight and stretching instructor were wasted for this month. This packing cube of stuff weighed in at about 10oz. I will not take the towel or the band again but will take the MELT balls, Neuro Ball and the yoga socks.

Carabiners!: I took several of various sizes and used them frequently. I had one on my personal item, one on my Tom Bihn travel tray, several on/in my purse and really used them all.

Tech stuff: The TomBihn small travel tray that Forum Enabler Mardee made me buy a few months ago was excellent for my tech cube (charger cords/cubes, Anker power bank and adapter plugs) + my bedside cube (chapstick, socks, kleenex, small notepad and pencil)! I had a carabiner on the draw string and used that a lot to free up space on a bedside table. On the recommendation of one of our local meet up folks I also got one of the multi use adapter plugs that has plug in sockets as well as a couple of USB ports. I just connected my power cables for my phone, watch and iPad Mini to that and left them plugged in. Very easy to connect each night.

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Bags: I have the Osprey Ozone 21” 2-wheeler. As I walked from the train station to the hotel in Saumur I got caught in a downpour (from Hurricane Kirk!) and I was surprised how quickly my bag got wet. I’d shoved my pj’s in the top pocket made for the 3-1-1 bag and it didn’t dawn on me to check them before I went to don them before bed. Well, yuck. Soaked. Need to spray the bag with Nikwax for the next trip to slow down water although I’ll probably never get caught in rain again, lol. I took a Baggallini Town Bagg for my cross body purse and used a Baggallini Tote for my personal item. I also wear a small 4X8 flat crossbody on the plane that holds my passport, CCs and phone as well as a few tissues. I did use this a couple of times in Paris and Saumur when it was pouring as it easily zips up under my rain jacket. I also had a Sea to Summit ultra sil very lightweight day pack for use on the tour. I had my rain jacket, puffy vest, waterproof ball cap stashed in there for day trips. This day pack is not adequate for actual hiking but is fine for stuffing extra layers in.

Packing/woulda/shoulda/coulda: There is light packing but seriously you can go too far and slightly underpack. Why oh why did I take the LS tee out at the last minute? Literally woke up on travel day, decided I did not need it and pulled it out of a fully packed and zipped bag! It’s only 3-4 ounces. I was forced to go to the Bastille Market on Sunday to buy a shirt from forum-member Sharyn’s stripey shirt guy!! Or 2! And make a return visit 3 weeks later to get a shirt for SIL, lol!!

Need to add nail brush and rag to packing list to clean my shoes plus plastic bag to set wet shoes on in hotel room.

Needed more meds than I took because I did get sick but managed. I went with another forum member to a Paris pharmacy and she was able to get cold meds in Paris so that was good to know for next time.

Needed flipflops (which yes, I left out due to weight!) to go down to breakfast or wear in the hotel rooms.

Capsule wardrobe: Took 4 SS tee shirts (white, black, medium blue and light pink). Took a Lands End denim shirt (https://www.landsend.com/products/womens-denim-button-front-shirt/id_386240 ) which worked great as well as 2 LS quarter zip drifit shirts (black and gray). 2 pr of GV Amanda jeans (dark wash blue and black) as well as an old pair of Costco travel pants that I did not take out of the suitcase. I always take 3 pr of pants since a forum member (was it Wray??) only took 2 pants, had a zipper break which left her with one pr of pants, lol. Took a Columbia waterproof jacket, Outdoor Research waterproof ball cap to wear under the hood to keep rain off my face, a 32 degree puffy vest and a pr of smartwool glove liners. Socks, unders, bras, compression shorts and pjs. I took 2 scarves, one a bandana size that goes with the black, white, blue, denim and gray. The other one has a little pink and purple as well and goes with everything. I had 2 pr of Altra athletic shoes, one waterproof Lone Peak style and one leather Torin style. I wore everything multiple times except the one back up pair of pants. Along the way I bought 2 striped shirts from Sharyn’s vendor and wore both of them. I sink washed the whole time. Mostly the hotel rooms had good towel heaters. The last hotel in Paris had such good towel heaters that my Fruit of the Loom moisture wicking unders were dry in 30 minutes so you could have toasted buns for breakfast, lol.

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Weather: Alternately rainy, really rainy, windy, windy and rainy, chilly and rainy, just chilly and then there was a day or two of weather toward the end of October where it was warm enough in Paris for just short sleeves. There was also minor flooding in the Loire Valley area when we were there. On the day we visited the Troglodyte village when we came back to the parking lot it had been barricaded off as they expected flooding that evening. No problem to move the sawhorses to exit and then replace them. At Azay-le-Rideau the river around the chateau was very high and lapping at the bottom of the foot bridges over to the structure itself. Other than that we were never impacted.

Waterproof gear: Yes, yes, yes. I needed my waterproof jacket, my waterproof ball cap and my waterproof shoes. Tromping around the neolithic stone areas in Brittany and the Cemetery areas in Normandie and Brittany the grass was wet and in the case of the stones…we were in the pouring rain at times. October in France can be really wet. I did not take or need rain pants. I also didn’t have an umbrella but didn’t really need one.

Apps I used: City mapper - daily in Paris for Metro and walking both. Apple wallet. Timeshifter. Google docs for my itinerary. FB messenger and What’s App. Delta app. G7. SNCF. Merlin Bird ID(sound ID). I had the Verizon 30 day International plan so had data when I was away from my hotel WIFI.

Apps I needed: Bolt-I’ve never used rideshare apps but twice I was with people who used Bolt when it was looking like public transit was not coming. This worked great and I’ll have it for next time in France. Check ahead for museum apps and special exhibitions- Petit Palais has an app which I used in the museum but it didn’t include the excellent special exhibition they had.

Mondays in Paris-yes, even if you are not a planner you need a plan! All the City of Paris Museums are closed. Louvre, Orangerie and Jacquemart Andre are open but were all sold out on my Monday where I had a change of plan. Weather was not suitable for garden sitting. Basilica Saint-Denis IS open and never crowded. And yes, I saw the tomb of Aliènor d’Aquitaine’s first husband, Louis VII.

Flights: I’m a Delta flyer. Easy to fly out of Spokane to Seattle to get to Europe. This time I had a schedule change by the Delta computer to return thru SLC with only 1h15m transit time to make my flight to Spokane (or have to wait for the last one of the day at 10P). I have Global Entry, was flying Delta One, had carry on only. The plane was 10 minutes late so my time had shrunk to 1h5m. I used to go thru there all the time but have not gone thru their new International arrivals hall but once so am not familiar with the layout. Since I was on Delta One, I picked a seat toward the back so I would be near the exit door. I was the 4th off the plane, had the carryon only. Walked as quick as I could to Passport control. Sprinted to the Global entry booth. Stepped up. It took my picture without having to put my passport in the machine or do fingerprints! As I walked up to the agent in the booth he stood up, leaned out of his booth and said “Pamela? Did you bring back anything more than you usually do?” My jaw dropped and I said, no, 4 tee shirts. He said have a good day, waved me thru and did not even look at anything. I stopped at the Delta kiosk to ask if I needed to rebook or if I could make it, she said you've got time. I said...can you print me a boarding pass because it's not coming up on my phone. She printed it and boom, headed to security. Here I did have to insert my passport, moved slightly and didn't think she got a picture. The agent said...good enough, Go! I headed to security, did not have to wait. Sent everything thru. Picked up my personal item and headed for the escalator. When I got to the top I realized I'd left my suitcase!!!! I headed back thru the "DO NOT ENTER" signs and 2 agents were standing there, hands on hips, LAUGHING...said...Did you forget something?? I hung my head, slunk over like a shamed toddler and said...yes.....They said you wouldn't believe how often that happens! Come over here we need to look at something anyway. The trigger was my can of fiber supplement. They didn't need to open, just swabbed the outside of the can and I was off. I headed back to the escalator and an employee was coming out of an office. I said you go first I'll be slow. He said...no problem I'll ride behind you. Then got to the top and I said...ok you can pass. He said, well, I don't think I can keep up with you, you must have a short transit. Where are you headed. I told him the gate and he said oh you're right there! When you come out to the concourse you'll be at A26, so turn right and you're there. SOOOO nice!

So yes, I made it as they were boarding Zone 1 which was my zone so had time to go to the loo too!! 25 minutes from stepping off the inbound plane to sitting down in my seat to go to Spokane! I was absolutely shocked.

Airplane advice: To those who use the airplane entertainment systems…the FAs could never get the system booted up on the plane from when we were on the runway at CDG. They even had to do a “live demo” of the safety routine. I don’t ever look at the entertainment system, always just read on my Kindle app so it didn’t bother me at all but I’m sure others were furious. Everytime I went to the lavatory the same FA was there trying to reboot the system. She literally spent hours on it and apparently was talking with maintenance about it. Have received 2 emails from Delta so far with apologies and deposits of miles into my account. Bottom line: Have something to entertain yourself…either a book or downloaded movies or something that does not depend on WIFI or the airplane system.

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Advantage in CDG to paying up for Delta One: I guess I’ve never left CDG having Delta One. There is a separate Immigration and Security line for Delta One (and I presume AF and KLM First class customers) down a side hall near the bathrooms. There was literally no one in line for either Immigration or the security line. I was dropped at the curb at 6:25 and thru to airside by 6:40 and that was after I had to ask directions then get redirected to the side corridor plus getting beeped and getting my hands swabbed in the security line. Crazy quick!

Taxi experiences: Most of the time Paris taxi drivers don’t talk much. The one I had from the hotel out to CDG started talking the moment I got in the cab and he was still talking when he pulled up in front of 2E. A forum friend suggested I say I was held hostage by a Paris taxi driver and made to watch classic Egyptian film clips, lol! He knew I had plenty of time so before I got out nothing would do but yes I must watch some clips of Egyptian film from the 40’s on his phone where they were tap dancing. SO funny! AND it turns out that the Freres Lumiere (early movie makers) went to Egypt and made talkies in 1932. He was just awesome and I have laughed myself silly over the ride. It was a G7 and I booked 2 days ahead on the app because I knew it was a holiday week. This driver said their business has been down by 50% over the last 2 weeks for the holidays. They usually have a lot of business people and people just don’t do much in this time around Toussaint. (his opinion)

Jet lag: I used the Timeshifter app again this time with good results going and coming back home (so far, hahaha!). I did not keep to it as much coming back as I just could not sleep as long as it wanted me to on the plane. I did drink prosecco for my PFD (pre-flight drink) so that helped a bit for a couple of hours, lol. I had to pay for it this time and the $10 or so was well worth it.

Paris: I go museum heavy on my visits. I went to the Louvre, the Orsay (and saw the excellent Caillebotte exhibition), the Cluny (half of it was closed the day I went but they warned you before you bought the ticket), the Petit Palais (excellent exhibition on Bruno Liljefors, a Swedish painter), finally got to the Museum of Hunting and Nature (which was packed!) and the Orangerie. I also went to the French Press Agency’s photo exhibition on the Liberation of Paris - it was free, small exhibition but had a lot of impact with photos from journalists and regular folks who’d squirreled away cameras and film during the Occupation and hit the streets as the Liberation began. (Thank you Kim for the lead on seeing this!) I intended to go to Cemetery Picpus (where Lafayette is buried) and the American Cemetery at Suresnes but honestly I was cemeteried out by the time I got back to Paris after the tour. The museums were all full with the exception of the Cluny and that may have been because half of it was closed. I was shocked at the # of people in the Hunting and Nature museum(about 30 people in line as it opened) as well as the special exhibition at the Petit Palais.

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No paper: Yep, I mostly went without printing any boarding passes, museum or train tickets. I screwed up twice when I did not back up the tickets by doing a screenshot and filing it in my photos and in my Notes section. I messed up my ticket to the Orangerie, had it up, showed it twice then couldn’t find it when it needed to be scanned. I finally found the email in the trash (eye roll). On the way home, I was able to fully check in online for my flights, had my boarding passes in the Delta app and used it to get on the plane at CDG. I’d not screen shot them either and by the time I got to SLC I could not get the boarding pass for my flight to Spokane to come up in the app. I stopped at a Delta desk in the area between passport control and TSA in SLC and got her to print a boarding pass for me which took about 12 seconds. I just need to focus when I do a purchase or check in and immediately do a screen shot plus add to Apple wallet if that is available.

Money: I used more cash this trip than on the last 2 trips. I was meeting with friends several times for meals and sometimes it’s just easier to pay cash to one person who charges the meal. Otherwise I used the ApplePay on my phone ALL the time. I rarely had my CC out. When using Apple Pay you can ask the restaurant server to “add 2 or 3 Euro” to the bill before you tap if you want to add a tip. BTW, I have read a lot on FB where people are being asked to leave a tip in restaurants in Paris. I NEVER had that happen to me in the Rue Cler area or anywhere else in France. I do not speak anything other than very awful rudimentary French so all servers likely figure I’m an American.

Friends: I met up with so many friends - some from the forum, some from our local meet up, some from other connections. I missed some I’d have loved to have seen but sometimes you just can’t fit everything in! These were all priceless times…there is nothing better than a set of friends you are comfortable with and are able to share laughter and good times with! (heart emoji x 3!!) You know who you are!

What a fabulous vacation!

What a fun trip report, thank you for sharing! Sounds like a wonderful time. And now I'm off to check out the Naboso Neuro Ball for my achy feet :)

OMG, I can't believe you already have your trip report up. You just got home!

So I guess I should read it, since you went to so much trouble....

Edit to add: good job. I'm particularly interested in the weather, since I'll be in France in October next year. Boo to the cold, windy, rain, but hey, whatever it takes.

I'm also interested in your on-the-ground review of the Mark Seymour tour, since I've signed up for one of them, as well.

Oh, and the stripey shirts! I need to know where to get those. I have two that I've had for about 35 or 40 years (really,) and they need to be laid to rest. I do remember, about 10 years ago, a vendor in a Paris market - the one near Rue Cler, under a bridge - urging me to buy from his stock, but I passed up the opportunity, intriguing as it was.

Thanks for a great report.

@CL - here is a link to the Naboso NeuroBall quick 5 minute release which is what I do. I only use the spiky half dome, not the small center ball. I will tell you that Dr Emily kind of drives me nuts when she leads her routines. I had a very old DVD of hers back in the 2000's on balance/core strengthening. I could only tolerate infrequently because her delivery drives me a little bonkers. I do believe her research and her programs, just do better if I watch them and then do them on my own!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmqI8OdAno&list=PL4AwNuFlehwzNXTTyByM6xQJ4e3cjm0Fc&index=6&t=75s

Also, I am sure she will have Black Friday sales if anything appeals to you. Sign up for her newsletters to get the sale notices.

@Jane! I was going to message you to tell you I'd posted, lol. Really, I take notes as I go and add in headers to a googledocs document so it's pretty easy to fill in the blanks once I get home. Besides I was not gone as long as you and Stan! Weather-wise this was a really wet October, I think, for France. I will just be prepared with waterproof jacket and ball cap and shoes and take whatever comes. I thought of you a lot during this tour and know you will enjoy touring with Mark.

The stripey shirt vendor is at the Bastille market on it's 2 days (Thurs and Sunday) and also at the Edgar Quinet market (Montparnasse area) for 2 other days (Wednesday and Saturday). They were 18E apiece, made in Portugal, nice weight cotton. They are in the wash right now so will see how they turn out. They were very long this year according to Sharyn, the expert, lol. But also with long sleeve length which I prefer.

Pam, great trip report! Sorry you were sick. Not fun on the tour. Sounds like you had the Creeping Crud or was is "just" a cold.
I'm also amazed you posted your trip report so quickly. Did you write it daily on the trip? I'm still struggling to finish my September trip report. Brain fog from having a cold on tour and the Creeping Crud as soon as I got home hasn't helped.
Where to next?
Kathy

Pam, you must have started writing this on your way home! Good job! I loved this report! Such a wonderful trip, and you saw so much. I really like that Lands End denim shirt (and you call moi an enabler!!!). ㋛ I have really, really got to go to Fontevraud now. Sadly I won't be able to do it on this upcoming trip but soon!

Your race going through the airport and issues with customs cracked me up! And I only say that because you made it, haha! If you hadn't, I would have commiserated.

Yes, those stripey shirts have been on my mind as well. I would like to take the kids to one Paris market next year if we have time, so will be bugging you for advice.

And I'm so sorry you weren't feeling well. I think there's crud going around all over. I had something earlier in the week although it didn't last as long. Hope you are over it by now.

Great trip report as always. The tour sounded wonderful and I almost had you get me another stripey shirt. I love standing stones too and would have loved to see all of them. Fun catching up with you for our short adventure.

Stellar trip report, Pam! I appreciate your inclusion of all the details; it really helps me feel as if I were traveling right along with you. I read the whole thing, but quickly, as I’m on a break between work tasks. I will come back to it later and savor every word!

Excellent report, Pam. Always love hearing anything about Paris. I still have your Paris-Belgium-Holland report bookmarked as we're doing that tour in April preceded by three days in Paris. The RS Paris city tour was our first in 2015 and still might be our favorite. Whenever friends ask where we'd like to return to, the answer is always Paris. Really looking forward to finally doing it. We've even booked the RS-favorite Hotel de Londres Eiffel because we loved it so much.

Well done Pam, excellent TR! Boo to being sick and cold, rainy weather, but cheers to meeting up with friends and finally getting to the Hunting & Nature museum (which I need to look up).

@Horsewoofie/Kathy: I truly agree it was the creeping crud. Still coughing today after 3 weeks. Don't feel bad. No fever. Negative Covid. I don't write daily but I start a document in Googledocs and add headers as I think about them (weather, wardrobe, etc) and add a few notes. Then when I get home it's pretty easy to turn my notes or bullet points into sentences which may or may not make sense, lol!! For myself it's easier if I don't go day to day, just do categories. I'd have to write notes every day if I were doing day to day stuff because believe me I can't remember what I did on day one unless I look back at my FB posts, hahaha!!

@Mardee: Oh my friend, I truly hope I can enable you. At the last minute I ditched taking the ORI/Roka cross body as the Baggallini was so much lighter and it was going to be packed. The Bastille Market is fun, has lots of locals, lots of food (got some delish cookies!) and a good "vibe". Pretty easy to access as well so we can help you work out your route depending on where you wind up staying.

@Leslie: I had so much fun with you that morning! Plus the coffee and breakfast afterward when we saw "our" vendor in the cafe, hahaha! Sorry you will miss tomorrow!

@NancyG: Thank you for your kind words. I do talk a lot in person too, hahaha!!

@StoutFella: Thank you also for your kind words and for saving my Belgium and Holland TR. That was such a fun trip. Much more low key than other RS tours but plenty of time to enjoy the area and you'll be there in tulip time which is awesome! I first went to Paris in 1973, then again in 1976. Did not enjoy either of those times (too young, didn't understand the culture, etc). A friend loves Paris so much I thought...well I must be missing something. I also did the Best of Paris and yes! Rolinka taught me how to get around in the city and what the expectations were for a visitor. Yea! I feel so comfortable there! It's a wonderful place for an old gray-haired gal like me, lol.

@Tammy: I've been loving your trip on FB! Every time I eat at Cafe Roussillon I look at "our" table where I had dinner with you, Jane and Stan! We must do that again, deah, lolol!!!! Lets do!

I got to reading your report this afternoon Pam and I am exhausted imagining seeing so many sights in such a short time. :) It sounded wonderful and very Mark Seymour. :) Looking forward to seeing you tomorrow at the travel group. Glad your cold is better!

What a wonderful trip report. I have bookmarked for future travels. I, too, fly Delta, but haven't sprung for Delta One. Last trip to France I took Premium Select over and was VERY disappointed. On way home though I felt I got my money's worth on Comfort+, Maybe because I was on the aisle in the middle and no one tried to get out on my side so it was almost like having a row to myself.

Thanks for such a wonderful, thorough trip report! So helpful. I have a space hold on a 2026 Mark Seymour France (wine) trip. It’s great to hear how you like his tours. Forgive my ignorance, but what is a stripey shirt? I. Going to have to go back and read other trip reports you’ve done!

At the last minute I ditched taking the ORI/Roka cross body as the Baggallini was so much lighter and it was going to be packed.

I don't blame you! Lightness counts! I'm still trying to think about my packing containers for the Paris trip, but I am going to Florida in early February again, so maybe I can do a dry run with some possibilities. Glad you liked the TB Travel Tray, and that's a good idea about the carabeners.

And thanks for the reminder about Paris museums closed on Mondays. I'm still trying to pin down the kids about what museums (if any) they would like to see, but since one of our 2 1/2 days is a Monday, we are definitely going to have to plan ahead.

@Judy! Hahaha...see you tomorrow!

@LaurieBeth - I popped for Premium Select when it first came out and was disappointed. I am wide across the hips and hate the seats with a tray table in the arm as it decreases the seat size. I also like to be able to lift the arm to get in/out too which you can't do on them either. I prefer an aisle seat in the center section especially if it's a 3-across situation in Comfort + over the Select. I started with Delta One when I returned to travel in 2021 after Covid as I thought I might have less exposure in a smaller cabin with fewer people.

@Barbara - the "stripey shirt" is just a striped tee!! Mine are cheap versions of the expensive Armor Lux or Saint James brands. Mark is really, really excited about the wine tour! He and his wife Toni used to live in Burgundy so they know the area. You'll have a wonderful time!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marini%C3%A8re

@Mardee - You've got time to figure out how to set your Monday up. Eiffel Tower is open every day so that's a good day to do it. The Army Museum is open on Mondays...is that of interest to your grandson? Gardens are always open, too.

Barbara, I'm on the list for the wine tour in 2026, as well! And a SW France tour in 2025. I have a couple of friends who are Mark Seymour devotées, so I'm really looking forward to both tours.

I saw your post this morning but wanted to have time to come back & savor it tonight! Another wonderful trip report, Pam! I love reading the details here after seeing your photos on Facebook along the way. Wow, Mark is a wonderful storyteller (your link), giving such depth & honor through his words! No wonder you enjoy his tours so much!

I see you embraced all of the reasons to pack light! LOL!
”I was forced to go to the Bastille Market on Sunday to buy a shirt from forum-member Sharyn’s stripey shirt guy!! Or 2!”

Looking forward to catching up with you later!

Pam! What a fantastic trip and trip report (minus the crud). So many others have already commented on things I was thinking, so I'll just add that this

but honestly I was cemeteried out

truly made me lol :)

Jane! That's great. Wish it was next year and not 2026! Now I want one of those stripey tops!

So enjoyed reading your report, Pam.
Such great attention to detail!
Hope you’re feeling better soon.

Another great TR Pam. You cover some wonderful details.
I know you enjoyed our tour…. I did too ! It’s people like you that make leading them worthwhile.
It’s all about the people !
Get your breath back !
I look forward to seeing you again soon.

Holymoly! What a terrific report! There's so much to take in that I'll have to read it again to absorb all the details! VERY cool that you got to see Fontevraud Abbey: shades of "The Lion in Winter", eh? So sorry you got sick and had to deal with a lot of rain but in true Pam form, you carried on like the trooper you are. Bravo!

I've yet to be "cemeteried out" but there's always a first time, eh?

Love this! I, also, love how you cover the really important details, IMO, ...packing, striped shirt, taxi's, etc. I wish I could take this particular tour, but I just can't or will not plan as far ahead as is required for Mark's tours; ie, two years in some cases. Sigh. I really wish I could get to Eleanor of Aquitaine's resting place and a more thorough Normandy tour, but C'est la vie! Again, I could read your packing lists and TRs forever!

I always take 3 pr of pants since a forum member (was it Wray??) only took 2 pants,

Yes, this was me. Now I always take a third pair, which would be comfy pants to hang out in my room that will look OK, not preferable, if I have to use them in public. I also always carry a small sewing kit, as I had removed it for this one trip...

@Jane - Did you feel my brain vibes while I was on this tour? I kept thinking...oh Jane would enjoy this...she would enjoy that, lol.

@Jean - I think last time I underpacked you had a "talk" with me about taking things that I need, lol. I'm ready for that talk again!!

@Hannah - 3 laughing emojis!!

@Barbara - Give yourself a few days in Paris before/after. I'll tell where the "guy" is, lol. BTW, washed them yesterday and the sleeves which were too long are now perfect (and I like them long). Length has come up a bit, otherwise, very good.

@S J - Thanks....I don't actually feel bad except when actively coughing!

@Mark - Wow, thanks for reading! You know Andrew and the team have disallowed emojis (think it has something to do with spammers) anyway - bisous!

@Kathy - On a long ago Road Scholar trip that started in Bordeaux the leader gave a talk on Alienor d'Aquitaine. As his parting shot he said...there are no portraits of her but from the descriptions I think she looked like this...and his powerpoint flipped up a picture of Katherine Hepburn in Lion in Winter, lol!! So yes, THAT is my mental picture of her!

As to the cemeteries...we were walking thru the American Cemetery in Brittany and I was cutting a diagonal thru the stones and happened to notice a name that I recognized! I was completely shocked to see the 508 Fighter Squadron, 404th Fighter Group on a headstone. My Dad flew P47's in this Squadron and in his later years my brother and I took turns taking him to his Fighter Group reunions so we got to know a number of the guys. He was still in training on DDay but we knew a number of men who flew then and we've also both read his Fighter Group history. This particular pilot was killed in a crash with one of his squadron mates so they were both KIA. Lt Kitchens was 20. The squadron mate was 21.

https://www.database-memoire.eu/prive/en-us/st-james-all-soldiers/111-st-james-k-us/2193-kitchens-b-f-508-fs-404-fg

@Wray - It IS really hard to plan this far ahead and Fontevraud is not as easy to get to as other places. You can take a taxi from Saumur if you decide to do that. Road Scholar also has a good trip to Brittany and Normandy they have reinstated post covid. Still, for a single supplement with them you're looking at a year out although you only have to put down about $250. AND laughing that yes, I remembered correctly about your zipper. See what impact your stories have?

It’s always so fun to read your trip reports, Pam! I love all those areas of France. So glad you had a good time. Thanks for sharing!

@Carroll - I'm glad you enjoyed it! I did have an excellent time!

Thanks so much for your wonderfu trip report, Pam! It was such fun to read and I (like others!) appreciate the details you provide. I am going to add the museum of Hunting and Nature to my list of things to see on my next trip to Paris.

And congrats on making the flight change in SLC in record time! Nothing like a close flight connection to get the adrenaline flowing. Glad you made it!

Again, many thanks for such an informative and entertaining TR.

Pam, thanks for the marvelous trip report! I’ve been waiting and checking TR’s for yours from France. WOW, I kept having to google place names and the Neolithic cites, I had no idea there were so many in France! I had saved your TR to read this evening as my nighttime entertainment LOL. We've really neglected France outside Paris & Loire Valley in our travels & this is making me think it's time for a serious Deep Dive, thanks for the inspiration! LOVED the comment about you ’stoners’, yep I would have been happy with all those walks, though good for you for weathering that soggy weather! You didn’t miss having rain pants??

I too agree you can pack too light, though it sounds like you hit the right spot. I'm definitely buying the Naboso NeuroBalls for morning feet workouts, gosh feet get trashed when I travel. So did I read this right that you only took 2 pairs of trainers and no hiking boots for this trip? (Though I do like the idea of waterproof trainers.) TB Travel Tray - Ahem, speaking of enabling, it too is on my list.

I read your link to Mark's post about the Red Cross woman volunteer buried at Omaha Beach cemetery, he writes beautifully and it was a very touching story, thank you.

Bruno Liljefors was a fantastic painter, one of our favorites & I have a platter of a closeup of a hare he painted, It’s in a Stockholm museum if (when?) you venture this far north. And your story of the fun Paris taxi driver was hilarious, to me that’s a classic Travel Treasure, when you meet someone funny / endearing/ who makes you laugh.

Thanks again, MARVELOUS to travel with you on your adventure, hope you’re feeling completely well soon!

What a wonderful trip and packing report, Pam !! I am so sorry the first part of your trip was affected by Hurricane Kirk, that was no fun ! And really sorry you got sick, glad it wssn't worse than it was,

For anyone interested in the stripey shirt vendor, I learned a trick when I went to see him a few weeks ago. The Bastille Market heads north up blvd de Beaumarchais from Bastille. If you happen to be pressed for time and want to zip in to see him, you can take the line 5 one stop north of Bastille to Breguet-Sabin. When you come up out of the metro, he is literally right there ! Easy-peasy. Of course the market is great fun to visit too, so folks may not care too much about that little nugget.

You've convinced me I need to head over to the Petit Palais to see the Bruno Liljefors exhibit. Will fit well with my recent trip to Sweden !

I can't believe how fast you made it through SLC airport, even with leaving your suitcase at security. Glad that worked out !

Thanks again for your entertaining and interesting trip report. Mark Seymour's tours sound absolutely fabulous.

I do so wish the forum had an easier way to retrieve bookmarked trip reports! This is another terrific one with lots of relatable details that will come in handy is the future, so thanks for doing this. We hope to be spending a week in Paris next spring, so I will look up the striped shirt seller. You’ve already inspired us to load the G-7 app.

I could relate to your taking out the LS shirt out at the last minute because I added one at the last minute when we headed to Spain in late April and wore it almost every day. We’d done the exact same itinerary at the exact same time and expected the same warm weather. When we hit the Basque part of the trip my husband finally broke down and bought a scarf. Details about how to deal with inclement weather are really helpful.

@CorrieTen - back in the "old days" when I was flying in/out of SLC a LOT based on where I lived, I actually made a domestic to domestic change in 18 minutes, including a comfort stop at a bathroom which I knew never had a line, lol. I was shocked and amazed this went so well. Keys were being on Delta One toward the back so I could be one of the first off, carry on only and having Global Entry. I'd not have made it if I'd had to wait for luggage to be ejected.

@Sandancisco - Oh gosh, I'm sure that Liljefors Hare was displayed at the Paris Exhibition! I wondered if you'd know this guy! I really fell in love with his work. I loved that he was a gymnast and climbed trees to get better views of the bird-life! The Hare was mesmerizing but I really liked one of a bird catching a dragonfly!

https://www.petitpalais.paris.fr/en/expositions/bruno-liljefors

I did forget to do something for jet lag. Did you mention the Uplift app in the last few months or did I see it somewhere else? It is using accupressure points to help alleviate jet lag. I meant to sign up for their free trial before I left and completely forgot. Well, I will do it for the next trip. The Timeshifter worked well this time for me but always like to have layers of options!

I actually don't own hiking boots. I just use the Altra Lone Peak low cut hikers for everything I need outdoors and took the leather Torin style because they look "somewhat" dressier (not really because they are wide and clumpy) for dinners. The waterproof ones are barely waterproof any more. This pair is giving way at the seams as they are a couple of years old and I could feel some seepage between the sole and the vamp. Not really enough to get my socks wet but enough that I did have some damp places. I did not miss having rain pants. I thought the day we hiked in the rain that I would get really wet but it wasn't windy and my jeans stayed fairly dry.

I'm glad you liked Mark's writing about the Red Cross worker. He writes such poignant pieces. One of the things that drew me in to his tours was his portraits of various people in historic situations - the one that hit me was one about a Roman draftee from Spain stationed on Hadrian's wall. He'd written his Mom asking for warmer underwear. This was actually based on an archeological find at Vindolanda.

@Kim - Your advice about the Metro exit is exactly how Leslie and I found him! We'd taken Line 8 and gotten off at Chemin Vert so when we walked to the market we came right up on him. I knew it was right when I saw "your" metro stop! I meant to make sure to tell you about the Liljefors exhibition. SO interesting and I know you love Sweden! He, however, did not do any pictures of those cinnamon buns you like so much, hahahha!! You'd have loved that cabbie. SO funny. I thought he was going to give me a pop-quiz at the end though! He is definitely a frustrated history teacher.

@Patty - I'm glad my TR was helpful! Kim and Elizabeth/Betsy also use the Bolt app so be sure to download that one too. I like to use G7 to go back to the airport just because I know they are dependable. You can load your CC information and also the ability to add a small tip which makes it so easy. Funny that you added a LS shirt and needed it! Interesting that you found such radically different weather in different years. Really, with such big swings now you just have to be ready for everything.

Hi Pam, loved, loved, loved your trip report! Finally got the time to read it all this morning. It sounds like a terrific trip with a great guide. I would love to see that Abbey in particular. It’s funny because during my walk this morning I am listening to a book by Thomas Cahill: ‘Mysteries of the Middle Ages’ and I’m reading/listening to a section all about Eleanor of Aquitaine. He’s a real fan. I read a biography of her years ago and it was special to reacquaint myself with her amazing life again. I bet your library would have it if you were interested to take a look. Published in 2006. I’m still got finding her vase in the Louvre top of my list. Maybe fall of next year.

I also have added a nail brush to my packing list. I got a spot on my raincoat that didn’t want to budge with the corner of a towel and I couldn’t make myself self use my toothbrush somehow!

It was great to meet you in Paris last month, thanks for that. Maybe the planets will align and we can do it again.

Hey there Pam, no it wasn't me who recommended the Uplift app, but thank you. Will sign up when I know my trip plans. Whatever I can do to reduce jet lag scientifically is a boost, this last trip your DARK GLASSES recommendation while flying helped a LOT! https://www.upliftnaturally.com/.

Good for you for getting by without hiking boots, I haven't found comfy enough trainers yet, let alone my Holy Grail which is to find actual leather shoes that look good for city walking. Thanks again, loved your TR!!

Pam, great trip report! I have really enjoyed reading it, with all the detail.
Wow, what a wonderful trip you had! Quite an adventure!
So glad you had a great time....except for the cold or whatever it was.
I hope the coughing is gone soon.
Surely the highlight of your trip must have been seeing Fontevraud Abbey,
Alienor d’Aquitaine and Henry II.
I am envious!
Best wishes to you,
Rebecca

I don't even know which trip it was - a while ago - but I wrote myself a note: "Don't go without a long-sleeve tee!" And I've followed my advice ever since.

@Lynda - Oh gosh, you would love that abbey! Steve, the assistant and I are both interested in Green Men which occur a lot in English Cathedrals. We were looking here where he found 2 and Mark (who joined in the quest, lol) found one. Such fun! It was a prison for many years but is so cool! 4 of the group members had reservations for their nice restaurant (might be Michelin starred??) and thought it very good. I'm going to look for that book in my library's collection. I've got 2 long drives this week so need some new listening material!

@Sandancisco - I know not everyone has the good luck with the Timeshifter that you and I do. I tried the Uplift free suggestions for the time change but not sure if they worked or not?!?

@Rebecca - I was thinking about you when I was in Fontevraud Abbey knowing your love for English history. The abbey is de-consecrated so the nave area is completely empty except the 4 tombs down near the crossing. Really amazing. As I mentioned to Lynda we were also on a hunt for Green Men, lol!! But the tombs of Alienor, HenryII and Richard were amazing. In Westminster Abbey there are so MANY famous folks that it's a little mind-numbing but here....they are there and that's mostly it.

@Janet - Laughing because I will write that in on my "master packing list" for clothing! Seriously...I always think I'm so tough and can tolerate a lot of low temps but when the humidity is thrown in that just throws me off.

BTW...forgot to mention, since Covid I've been taking a thermometer and never used it. This time I did when I first started feeling sick. Low-grade temp and was back to "my" normal 97 the next day. I'll keep that in the mix!

Great trip report! What a small world that you were on the same tour as a friend you had not seen in years. Sorry to hear it was so rainy but sounds you had a wonderful trip just the same.

I finally got a chance to read your trip report and loved it. You really know how to travel! I wasn’t going to be around on the proper days for the Bastille market, which I recommend, so I went to see the striped shirt guy at the other market. I found him immediately and of course bought a couple of shirts. I’ve purchased from him before and they are of good quality. I’m so happy our paths crossed the one day we were both there, and what a day that was!

@Meg....it was so bizarre! I didn't find out until about July that they were on the same tour date. What fun we had!

@Andrea - Hahaha!! Of course we ALL have stripey shirts now! I have since washed mine and they came out well. The sleeves and length shrunk up just a touch which is what was needed. Next time we are all there we should don our shirts and descend on the seller, lol!! He is so nice and would probably laugh at us! I'll be there in Oct 2025 again...hope you and Jim will be too!

Pam, we should be there in October 2025. I’m hoping to arrive on 9/19 and spend a month. Fingers crossed. Of course I must remember to bring a striped shirt. Or two. ;-)

Hi Pam, excellent and very useful trip report. Sounded amazing. Very jealous!

By chance did you enjoy your Paris hotel stay? Which hotel was it (I didn’t catch that information but maybe I missed that in your trip report)?

We’re just about ready to book for our European vacation next August/September…

Thx
Maria

@Andrea - sounds like we will overlap some! I don't have my dates exactly yet but my Mark Seymour tour starts Oct 10 in Carcassonne.

@Maria - I stayed in 2 different hotels in Paris, one before my tour and a different one after.

The one before was the Hotel Beaugency. It is one I've stayed at since 2014. It is getting a bit tired looking, needs a complete reno top to bottom. It's changed hands since my last stay so some of the staff has changed but some are still there. All very nice. The location is excellent, price is usually less than others in the neighborhood but not sure I'd recommend to first timers.

The 2nd hotel is the Hotel Muguet where I've also stayed for years. It is very nice although I had a very small room this time. It is owned by a family of women and they have the nicest sheets and towels of any hotel I've stayed at. Their staff is outstanding. Breakfast standard but has the advantage of having one of the OJ squeezer machines which is awesome.

There is another hotel in the area I've stayed in but their prices had not gone back to "normal" since the Olympics so they were the most expensive of my "regulars" It's the Hotel Relais Bosquet.

All 3 of these are in the 7th in the Rue Cler neighborhood. I like this area as I am a solo female and feel very safe walking around at night here. I can have a glass or two of wine for dinner and be able to walk home. Or to the gelato place for dessert, hahaha!

I do so wish the forum had an easier way to retrieve bookmarked trip reports! This is another terrific one with lots of relatable details that will come in handy is the future, so thanks for doing this.

Patty, I bookmark threads I want to keep by using my browser's (Chrome) bookmark feature. I have all my bookmarks organized by categories, with Travel as one, and then a LOT of sub-categories. So I saved Pam's trip report in the Future Travel category>France>Itinerary Ideas. It's so much easier to retrieve than going to my "saved" threads in my account.

Good point Mardee! I also just bookmark directly into a folder on my laptop.

IF there is some very important information I will copy and paste the text into my itinerary. Both Mardee and I realized that if someone either leaves the forum and closes their account OR if they get booted off ALL their posts disappear so we both now take steps to protect any information that seems vital.