TR: Morocco - April/May 2026

Rabat:
We spent just one night here--our first in the country, but it was a great place to recover some from jet lag and start to get our feet under us. We enjoyed wandering the Kasbah and taking in the views. Walking was the name of the game, and it was very easy to get around that way. We did wander over to the Hassan Tower and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V--stunning on the inside. It was a Saturday morning, and it seemed so many schools had brought kids for a Saturday morning field trip that day, and it really gave a lively and joyful energy to everything.

A fun afternoon was spent poking into bookstores and taking fun photos with UNESCO posters as well as cute kids books. A small medina wander was also nice and colorful with no pressure from anyone at all. Train to Fes is more detailed above.

Fes:
Our accommodation was just inside the medina, which was great from a moving around/navigating point of view. We also had some incredible food, including some orange juice and a mango dessert that I won’t soon forget. Oh and carrot jam--so so so good.

My friend’s birthday was Sunday, and we took a half-day morning medina tour. Our guide was having trouble with his voice (he said: “I’m a bad Muslim--too much whisky last night”), but he still took us to many good places and let us try crepes and fresh bread just out of the oven in the neighborhood bakery. This tour (and others, from what I hear) are somewhat guided shopping trips, and that was generally fine with us though it was a little wearing by the end.

Whatever I do if I go back, I will go back to the tanneries in Fes. I didn’t find the smell THAT bad (though the mint was welcome as I love the smell of it), and I enjoyed watching the process immensely and treated myself to a new leather jacket.

We also enjoyed the Cherratine Medersa, argan oil coops, and a cool weaving workshop with great views from the roof of the world’s oldest university (and founded by a woman!). We were less enthused on our walk back to see the Blue Gate at the other end of the medina from where the tour ended, and it felt like we were hassled non-stop. Maybe it was the two women alone thing, but so many people told us, “No, you don’t want to go that way--it doesn’t go anywhere. Come this way with me.” Google maps was working, and I knew how to read the street signs for dead ends by then. Every time someone told us no, we still popped out exactly where I wanted to go. By the 20th time of this, we were a little aggravated and started to trail an older man with a NatGeo backpack so we looked like we were with someone. It worked.

I wish we’d eaten dinner back at our Riad again as our more touristy restaurant was good but not amazing. It wasn’t all the way Western (no alcohol), but its setting seems to attract mostly tourists.

4 day Morocco Fabulous Tour: AM pickup from Fes
On day 1, my friend texted her husband that she was sorry if she died on a road in Morocco--it took us a bit to settle into the way of driving once you are outside the city: tailgating slow cars, speeding, and holding the phone in his hand almost all the time. By day 4, our driver seemed great and everything seemed normal. It was a good reminder about how driving culture can vary!

Day 1 was the longest in the car, but we got acquainted with our travel-mates (an Australian couple) and saw the depth of the landscape diversity in the country. High points: a monkey jumping on my friend’s head to try and get at her iced coffee, my hair standing straight up in each picture at the Ziz Oasis overlook, the first views of the Chebbi Dunes of the Sahara. We chose to ride camels from Merzouga to our desert camp, and I loved every single second of it: the sunset on the dunes, the end of the ride, and then our night at camp where I discovered that when someone gives you a drum and tells you to sing--Queen is the universal language. “We Will Rock You” on a Berber drum and around a campfire was truly incredible.

Day 2 was our bonus day in the desert. Up first--sunrise. My friend and I took the car back to town after a few hours of learning to sandboard just behind the camp, and our driver took us sliding/donuting on the dunes--amazing fun. We met up with our guide and the other couple and went off for more driving hijinks, views, mining, a lake in the middle of the dunes, and then a lovely visit to a Berber family in their tents. The young girls (ages 2 and 5) weren’t at school yet, but they kindly showed us the one day old baby goat, their mother’s loom, and the living tent where we had tea. I had some chocolate digestives to share with them, and I was very entertained by the 5 year old eating it like it would disappear while the two year old just broke it apart and shoved it in her tea glass amongst all the tea she did not drink. Later in the evening, we went on ATVs through the dunes for another sunset. I’d never ridden one before (years of being told they were too dangerous), and it took 2 stalls, but I really enjoyed it and knew I was unlikely to run into a hidden log that would cause me to flip over.

Day 3 meant leaving the desert behind, but our guide made good coffee and shopping stops along with a henna stop. It was free though they did hope we’d buy something from the shop, and I was happy to do so as it was a women’s coop. Our main destination was Todgha Gorge, and it was stunning, though I wish we could have done more of a hike than the small walk we did. I know some people camp and hike in the area, so perhaps another time! We wanted to look at some Berber carpets at a coop, so we stopped soon after leaving the Gorge and witnessed incredible carpets while drinking a LOT of tea. It was one of the few places that took “plastic money,” and I was happy to negotiate a small discount for buying two carpets with the women who run the show. My carpet is bright blue with camels and one very clear imperfection that I love. It might be one of my favorite souvenirs of all time. I also picked out one for my teenage daughter. We ended the day in the Valley of Roses.

Day 4: Our last leg took us through Ouarzazate, where we all declined to take the Atlas Studios tour. However, I’d do every tour/stop at Ait Ben Haddou--I loved walking around, the views of the snow-capped High Atlas Mountains, the movie history, the artisans doing Berber illustrations that involve producing color by burning the paper--all of it. The Tichka pass had scared me in pre-trip reading, but our overlook stop and then the trip down were much easier than I thought. Eventually, we pulled into Marrakesh just south of the medina where we had to give very hurried goodbyes as the police tried to keep traffic moving.

Marrakesh:
A bit shell-shocked to be back in the city after being in the desert, we did not realize we had arrived on the eve of a national holiday (Labor Day). It didn’t matter in the square, but it meant that our tour on Friday of the medina and key sights was a little less hectic as many people in the deeper parts of the medina/actual craftspeople were off work. This tour was great and included the amazing Bahia Palace. Our guide gave us a lot of information and orientation at the beginning and then let us take the rooms at our own pace--a strategy that I really enjoyed as I saw massive groups block paths to listen to their guides. The palace is still being renovated and repaired post 2023 earthquake. At the end of a very good tour, we went to one of his recommended restaurants to try lamb tangia---very tasty. Was this the dish that caused middle of the night tummy troubles for both of us? Who knows! I’d eat it again.

We also experienced a hammam that afternoon. I really enjoyed it but also would try and book separately in the future as we shared a room so got less time each with the scrubbing, etc. We were very well taken care of though, and our lovely attendant did tell me that she got “1 kilo of dried skin off you.” I do in fact have dry skin so I was amused. After, we relaxed in the Secret Garden/Le Jardin Secret. Touristy, yes, but a nice place to just sit and continue relaxing after a scrub. We took a night off of Moroccan meals to eat at a recommended Italian restaurant in the new town, and we both enjoyed it.

Our last full day was made possible by immodium, but I still didn’t feel amazing. Sadly, it was the day we’d booked a morning street food tour. I was able to eat some things--”pancakes” and donuts from the Jewish quarter, a little bit of an amazing lamb dish, olives and nuts, and some special juice that has avocado, prunes, and 2-3 other juices. There was a meat sandwich that I couldn’t eat and then a fried sardines dish at the end that my stomach just wouldn’t do. Given which one of us needed post-trip antibiotics to kick the stomach issues, I think it was for the best that I just couldn’t eat everything.

The Koutoubia Mosque and gardens were worth exploring if you need a break from the square and medina. I enjoyed shopping more here than in Fes, and we both found it much easier to navigate with very little in the way of feeling odd as two women traveling. With all of our shopping done, we had some dinner (fruit juice flight!) and then sat having tea on the roof of Cafe Glacier and watched the sun set over Jemaa el-Fnaa. It was an amazing way to end the trip.

Riads:
Riad Narjiss, Rabat: Women-owned and our first dose of Moroccan hospitality. We enjoyed our stay and the very convenient location!
Riad Alya, Fes: Our favorite in the country. Amazing hospitality and the breakfast food as well as the one dinner we ate there…tremendous.

Africa Luxury Camp: Similar to the others in the dunes, but we enjoyed our one night. It is nice that if you bring wine from a shop, they will uncork it and give you wineglasses.
Riad Azawad: We enjoyed it, especially the very cold pool (it was still in the 50s or lower at night in the desert at the end of April) after a long few days in the sand. Beautiful flowers and very good food, especially breakfast.
Riad Tazawa: Stunning landscaping with the roses that the valley is known for. Off the beaten track (literally), but great for sunrise/sunset/stargazing at night.
Riad Hotel Marraplace: The only one that didn’t get in touch with any directions or reminders prior to the arrival. Also, it was the only one that didn’t take credit cards and required you to pay on arrival (not a fun realization). Nicest bathroom though, and breakfast was on the roof terrace.

Wrap up thoughts coming after the weekend.

@Archer - I so enjoyed reliving Morocco through the details of your trip report. I could feel as I was there walking with you both though the Medina and hearing those people trying to divert you from your Google map.
I am sorry to hear about the tummy troubles but at least it happened at the end of the trip and that didn't stop you from enjoying your full day.

My tour of Morocco was the reverse of yours (starting in Marrakech and ending in Casablanca) but we went to the same cities/towns (plus Chefchaouen for me). I am happy to hear you were able to visit Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, it was also the only place I visited there. Our mosque guide was okay but, honestly, I had read/studied enough so I just ventured around taking photos. The Mosque guide knew our tour guide and told her "there is a surprise inside for you today". The small center section of roof that is retractable was open that day! It only opens a few times a year for special religious events and royal visit, I think, and the opening that day was due to the need for ventilation. My tour guide was almost in tears - she has been inside the Mosque more than 50 times and that was her first time seeing it open. I understand it - it was magical being inside such a beautiful prayer room and being able to see a small piece of the blue sky letting it morning sunlight that spread through the room.

Our designated guide for Fes also took us on shopping trips but I just watched the craftsmanship of ceramics, textile, jewelry... I did buy one scarf at the textile place. And I didn't find the tannery that stinky either. I was shocked to witness those individuals in the tanks with their legs submerged.

Thanks again for sharing this report. I'm sure it will help a lot of people planning or considering a trip to Morocco!