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To the Stiletto Heel of the Boot then Back to Roma

Twenty-four hours wearing an N-95 mask, but we’re back in Italia! Three hours waiting in ATL, ten on Delta, a driver to Termini, then a few more hours waiting for our Italo train to Bari, and five hours riding it. Short walk to car rental (thank you gemut.com!) and we’re finally on our way - under a full moon, and in pitch dark when we got on the narrow winding roads to our vineyard trulli. I can’t make the math work out exactly, but I know when we finally arrived, we had been on the road for 24 hours!

In many trips over many years we’ve pretty well traversed Italy, but never into the heel of the boot. Usually we’re slower travelers, but this time we were skimming new places and ending with a few days in an old favorite, hoping to see it with few tourists. Puglia and Basilicata may not have the blockbuster sights you seek on your first half dozen trips to Italy, but there are many beautiful and amazing experiences to find here. Rick Steves Italy mentions none, and Lonely Planet offers only a few more. Google and some leads from the Travel Forum were my most productive sources. Andiamo!

Valle d’Itria, Puglia
The area of the hilltop white cities. Narrow roads hemmed in with stacked white stones cleared to create farmland on these rolling hills. So many grape vineyards here! This area may produce more wine than Tuscany. All very green in late October.

Trulli il Castagno near Martina Franca, was our first stop for 3 nights. We stayed in all Sawday’s properties on this trip, and finding this one determined where we started. The Spalutto family has managed this farm for four generations and offers four renovated traditional trulli. They are simple, but immaculate, and ours had tall cones over both the kitchen and the bedroom. The trulli are surrounded by vineyards, and the farm produces both wine and olive oil. There is a large pool in season, and a lovely kitchen garden from which you are welcomed to pick vegetables. The location is within a few miles of some of the best white cities. I can see staying here a week, visiting more of the coastline and just relaxing. Very inexpensive!

Giorgio’s hospitality is friendly and thoughtful. He had maps showing the most popular towns with recommendations for where to park and eat. On some evenings he offers wine or olive oil tastings. Best of all, he organized a traditional Puglian family dinner for his guests one of our nights. We sat at a long table - 2 Germans, 2 Dutch, 2 Americans, 4 Italians, 2 bambini - and enjoyed plates and platters of delicious Puglian specialties, with generous wine pairings, of course. In years of traveling, this was one of my favorite experiences, and forgive me PETA, I ate the rabbit.
https://en.trulliilcastagno.com
https://www.sawdays.co.uk

Favorite white cities we visited in the Valle d’Istria:

Martina Franca
First look at the sparkling white buildings, green parks, and pristine narrow streets of a white city crowning a hilltop. Beautiful piazza in front of their Duomo, which was Baroque but more restrained than many to come.

Alberobello
City of 10K trulli, can be tourist swamped, I read. We went early morning and there were very few visitors on this off-season, post plague day. Tourist shop trulli are all stacked on one hill.Go up the opposite hill, the one with the big church on top, to see the more residential area with higher end shops and leafy parks with dark-suited senior Italian gentlemen.

And try one of their special local breakfast pastries called Tette Delle Monache, if only to hear the waiter say “Here’s your cappuccino and your Tit!”

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Locorotondo
A white village on top of a hill, and maybe the prettiest of all. City park at one end has great views over hundreds of trulli in the countryside. Easy, free parking lot at the other end.
Pizzaria Casa Pinto on one of the narrow white streets made possibly the best pizza I’ve ever had, better even than in Naples - tomato sauce, basil, Buffalo Mozzarella, and anchovies fresh from the Calabrian Sea.

Ostuni
A larger city with more majestic architecture and more tourists. The big church on main Piazza della Liberta in the old city must be dedicated to St. Francis. Front doors wonderfully carved with scenes from his life.

We’ve had good luck in all these cities by stopping in the convenient tourist infos and asking what we should see, then leaving with a well marked local map. Made a sharp left turn right before the ZTL started and found easy parking on that street. There was a good gelato shop in the shadow of the famous arch on the way up the hill.
[In hindsight, I think I might rather have seen Monopoli than Ostuni.]

Oria
Walled city where we stopped for lunch on the drive to Lecce. Right inside one of the old city gates was a tiny place called Antica Drogheria. Friendly server helped us order delicious prosciutto and mozzarella paninis. Not much happening in this part of town, but lunch and the artigianale gelato we found up the street were both winners.

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Next stop: Lecce

Lecce is famous for the elaborate carvings made possible by super soft sandstone. Its grand age of church construction collided with the Baroque period, resulting in churches decorated with elaborate fruit, angels, and curlicues on every vertical surface. Sometimes there is a cohesive look to the sand colored carvings, but other building committees got carried away and highlighted everything with gold, triggering all one’s ADD tendencies.

Three nights here at another Sawday’s property, Roof Barocco Suite. The house is in the historic center, inside the ZTL, but our host reserved us parking in a nearby garage and met us with his car. Everything in the description of this property mentioned steps, so we had been warned. There are outdoor steps to the first level courtyard where our hosts live, then a black slope up to our apartment. But once we caught our breath, we saw it was beautiful.

There’s a huge roofed terraced overlooking the city, half for us and half for the one other apartment, which had a delightful couple from Belfast visiting. (They were traveling exclusively by train, because driving on the wrong side in Italian traffic was just too much. So train travel in this area is a possibility.) Inside our apartment are two antique-filled bedrooms and two pretty tiled bathrooms. In the kitchen was a huge basket filled with welcome gifts - wine, bread, crackers, cookies, fruit, fresh Roma tomatoes, oil and balsamic.. This was our first taste of Elisabetta’s hospitality, and it continued daily.

In the mornings she left another big breakfast basket outside our door. It was filled with warm pastries, fresh cut fruit, juice, and more cookies every day. There was so much food we asked her to bring only half the pastries, and we still had enough to make another meal if we wished. http://www.roofbaroccosuite.it/en/appartamento

Riding the little tourist train around Lecce the first morning gave us a good feel for the layout. The old historical part is not big and is easily walkable. The Duomo and the Basilica di Santa Croce are the prettiest (most restrained) churches. Others get more and more elaborate and brighter gold, not necessarily better.

The fortress of Charles V, complete with dungeon, has a fairly interesting tour. There is also a papier-mâché museum which I imagined filled with the sort of elaborate nativity figures as in Napoli. I often have an overactive imagination….

One day was enough to cover the main city sites, and our plan was to spend the next along the coast seeing Gallipoli and more of the southern coastline. We made several mistakes, and only got to Gallipoli. We let the Navi take non-highways, hoping for scenic back roads, as in Tuscany and Umbria. The countryside is not especially pretty in this part, and a devastating virus has killed acres of very old olive trees. We should have taken the fast highway and avoided as much of this sad scenery as possible. To make things even worse, it was our first and only gray, drizzly day in a string of brilliant, blue skies.

Gallipoli has a scenic harbor, and think there are good beaches nearby, but the town itself seemed touristy and a little tired. We also waited a long time to see inside the cathedral, which was not as special as hoped. We did make a great find for Sunday lunch with a roomful of Italian families. Navicula Mare had fresh, delicious seafood. I think I might have enjoyed Gallipoli more on a fine day. Should have started earlier and traveled faster if we wanted to see the coast. Next time.

Our favorite restaurants in Lecce:
Trattoria Nonna Tetti - traditional Puglian dishes, in a red-check tablecloth kind of ambience
Corte dei Pandolfi - more imaginative food, outside tables, in a square near the city center

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And the Worst meal ever in all of Italy….
Leaving Lecce the next day, headed for Matera, staying on the main highway, except for one long detour looking for lunch in some town which seemed to have not one open restaurant. Made an even worse lunch stop back on the highway at a small local version of an Autogrille. This one had three choices of panini they could make. I sure didn’t want caballo (horse!!) And did an entire pantomime act to try to figure out the other two choices. We finally agreed one was something from a cow. Thankfully, we only got one panini cut in half, because after one bite each of gristly, grey meat, we chunked it in the rubbish! (Outside, out of sight, of course.)

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Matera - the magical city of Basilicata

We soon arrived in Matera, circling a square in the upper city, skirting the ZTL by a hair each round, searching for our reserved parking garage. After a phone call to our hotel (“It’s in the ZTL, but you are fine!”) we turned down something slightly wider than a hallway, and found it. Grateful we had arranged the 5 euro valet service, which was worth so much more to be delivered to the door of our cave hotel near the bottom of the hill.

Corte San Pietro
I really wanted to stay in a cave hotel for our two nights, and found this one on Sawday’s. Not a budget property, but a good value, especially compared to prices charged by some other cave hotels. The contemporary decor in the common spaces is design magazine worthy. Our bedroom had tall arched ceilings, and wonderful antique tile floors in its contemporary bathroom. Helpful front desk, elegant breakfast, about 14 rooms, and we luckily got #19, the only one with a private patio.
https://www.cortesanpietro.it/en

Matera is unique, mysterious, and magical. It can be better appreciated with some reading beforehand, and a good guide can make all the difference in really understanding what is being seen, or even finding it! The history is complicated. It’s reputed to be the third oldest continually inhabited city in the world, after Aleppo and Jericho. There are Medieval graveyards and caves where monks fled for safety in the 800s. There are hundreds of windowless caves where the poor lived with large families, no facilities, and the family animals until 1952, when the area was proclaimed the “shame of Italy” and the peasants were removed to public housing, thereby breaking up their community. And there are the Baroque buildings where the rich always lived at the top of the hill. Film makers often come here to depict old Jerusalem - Mel Gibson - Passion of Christ. Or if they need steeps and thrills - the newest James Bond.

Our guides in Matera

Vito from ApeVito, for a fun 45 minute Ape (open three-wheel Italian vehicle) tour the afternoon we arrived. https://apevito.com

Gianluca from Tours with Locals, was so interesting and knowledgeable on our half day private tour the next morning. The highlight was the seeing refurbished cave residence.
https://www.toursbylocals.com/matera-walking-tour (With Gianluca G.)

Crypt of the Original Sin
https://www.criptadelpeccatooriginale.it
In the afternoon we drove outside Matera to see the recently discovered medieval cave church with incredible frescoes: the Crypt of the Original Sin. Fascinating for artists, historians, Christians. Tickets are very limited, and it’s not easy to get there. Wear sturdy shoes; footing is uneven inside the cave. We planned to drive, but didn’t regret the 50 euro taxi who drove us there and waited for us, and kept us from risking the ZTL again.

Carlo Levi
There’s a book by Carlo Levi called Christ Stopped at Eboli that can enhance one’s understanding of Matera. He was a doctor by profession but a painter at heart, who was exiled to this area in the 1930s when his politics crossed the wrong Fascists. His poetic book about the lives of the peasants brought their plight to the eyes of the government. The title infers that Matera was so bad Christ never came this far; He stopped at Eboli.

We spent the end of our last afternoon in the lovely uphill, upscale pedestrian area, and my best discovery was the museum housing Levi’s paintings: Museo Nazionale d'Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata. On the main floor is a room size mural of his friends and neighbors, the peasants. In the same room are the black and white photos you can match to portraits in the mural. Upstairs is a room of his smaller paintings, and if you are artistically sensitive, you will see his progression from pretty early portraits pre-exile to the grittier, more expressionistic, more heart felt later work.

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Our favorite Matera restaurant: Francesca
Many of Matera’s restaurants had limited opening in off season, but we had two wonderful dinners nearby our hotel at their recommended Francesca.

Rome

From Matera to Rome is less than hour on the autostrada to Bari, then Italo to Rome through beautiful countryside at 150+ mph for five hours.

Guest House Arco dei Tolomei, Trastevere
In Rome I wanted to stay in Trastevere this time, because we usually stay near Piazza Navona and I wanted to know Trastevere better. Guest House Arco dei Tolomei, another Sawday’s property, was a great choice for our three nights. New sights, new restaurants, not too many stairs, and charming hosts. Located in the quiet part of Trastevere, about a block from the river, near the Isola Tiberina. The nearby Ponte Sisto pedestrian bridge is only about a 15 minute walk to Piazza Navona. www.bbarcodeitolomei.com

I’ve been coming to Rome since 1970, and every trip is a revisit to old favorites with some new experiences mixed in. We had two full days this time. This is about as much structure as I will commit to, but four of these required pre-purchased, timed tickets.

Day 1: Underground Colosseum at 9:30AM
Borghese Gallery 3-5PM

Day 2: Trastevere churches: St. Cecelia and Santa Maria
Nero’s Domus Aurea at 11AM
Vatican Museum at 5PM

Underground Colosseum
Tickets to see the new additions to the Underground Colosseum at 9:30 when it opened. There were only six of us in our English tour, and our guide was knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Previously only one area of the underground was open. Now there are many walkways to traverse large areas of the Underground’s tall arched tunnels, and reconstructions of the animal lifts and trapdoors The Underground can ONLY be visited with a guide, and the Coopculture website is confusing. The new additions and the museum on the upper level are so interesting! Here’s something I posted previously with more detail about tickets:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/italy/tickets-for-underground-colosseum

Mamertine Prison
This small, easily overlooked site near the Roman Forum has always been meaningful to Christians because of its historical importance as the holding cell where both Peter and Paul were held before their executions. Previously one could descend the same stone steps to the basement cell as the Apostles walked. Now the upstairs is a minor museum with a few artifacts, and a steel staircase replaces the original walkway. It’s just not the same.

Borghese Gallery
Always admire seeing the Bellini sculptures in this sumptuous setting. Now Damien Hirst’s tongue-in-cheek Treasures exhibit pieces are mixed in with the antiquities. I usually enjoy contemporary work; just wish this installation hadn’t required the wonderful gladiator mosaic floor to be covered. After being underground in the Colosseum, I wanted to see those gladiators again.

St. Cecelia in Trastevere
https://www.romeactually.com/santa-cecilia-in-trastevere-basilica
Cecilia was martyred in the third century, in her home, over which this church was eventually built; her body was discovered in catacombs in 820AD; exhumed and found still intact in 1599. Google the rest of the story to understand the white marble sculpture in front of the altar. Patron saint of musicians; not sure of the connection. Stunning mosaics from 800s.

Santa Maria of Trastevere
More wonderful Medieval mosaics in this church in the main square. We visited on a Friday morning. Square must have been party central the night before. It had piles of garbage waiting for pickup. Glad our B&B was in the quiet part of town.

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Domus Aurea
https://parcocolosseo.it/en/area/the-domus-aurea/
This is Nero’s Golden House, just uphill from the Colosseum. I really wasn’t sure what I was going to see, but the website caught my eye when it mentioned Raphaello, and it was something new.

After Rome burned in 64AD, Nero started building this massive palace complex. The emperors who followed him filled it in with dirt up to the ceiling arches, hoping to erase all memories of Nero, and the Baths of Trajan were eventually built on top of it. A number of the rooms were cleared out and opened to visitors in about 2014. I toured it with a Roman historian who made it all very interesting. The place is massive and remnants of the wall decorations remain. I think there may be some kind of tour with virtual reality glasses for something less academic. There were a handful of well-behaved older children and tweens in our group, and they all looked pretty well done by the end of the hour and a half.

Vatican Museums
Have spent a lot of time here over the years, with guides and on my own, and usually try to focus on a specific area. This time I really just wanted to see any of it without the crowds! Booked Friday night at 5, and many of the rooms had only a handful of visitors, Saw the excellent Egyptian exhibit for the first time, and lingered longer in the contemporary galleries. And of course, the highlight is always the Sizzling Chapel, as my daughter thought it was named. The Chapel had plenty of people, but since they’ve blocked all the benches along the walls, and nobody can sit, people moved through faster.

My husband, who is quite fit but walks with a noticeable limp, is often singled out by thoughtful Italian museum staff and offered privileged entrances. When the Chapel guard asked if we would like to sit on the short bench in front of the Last Judgment, we sure didn’t turn that down. It’s really not possible to enjoy the ceiling while looking straight overhead, so we felt very lucky to sit as long as we wished and view it from a better angle.

Rome Restaurants, old and new favorites
My goal in Italy is to never waste a meal on anything mediocre, whether it’s a slice, a gelato, or a full dinner. I read Roman foodie blogs even when there’s no trip in sight. We only had three nights and two days, but we fit in some old favorites and made new discoveries, with the help of our B&B owner.

La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali
An old favorite a short walk from the Forum. We came early and got an outside lunch table with no reservation, but that will never happen at night. One of my most memorable meals ever was here with a group of friends, when the chef planned our entire dinner and wine pairings. Had a great Puttanesca for lunch.

Forno
I know this is a generic, but we can never leave Rome without a messy slice and pasticcino from the ones in the corner of the Campo dei Fiori near the fountain, whatever their actual names are.

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Favorite Rome restaurants continued:

Trattoria da Teo
Our new Trastevere favorite! Our train was arriving in Rome at 5:30 and we asked our B&B owner to book us a dinner somewhere at 8; fancy unnecessary because we would probably order Cacio e Pepe. Teo was his wife’s local fave, not far from their house, through a piazza filled with almost empty restaurants, and hidden around a corner on a back street. Filled with families and big groups of friends, it is far from anywhere a tourist is likely to wander.

They serve all the classic Roman pastas and very fresh seafood. The first night we had an amazing layered appetizer the chef was featuring, with burrata seasoned with anchovies, and crisp cracker-like bread. The word they called it sounded like “mille-fleur.” Had to try the squash blossoms, so when they they delivered the large plates of rich Cacio e Pepe, we could eat maybe a third of it. Service is not rushed, and they turned away a number of people while we were there. Reservations essential. We ate outside, under tents and heaters, but there are rooms inside.

We made another reservation before we left, and had an even better dinner the next night: a calamari and artichoke starter, spaghetti Vongele, and spaghetti with seafood. Their dessert was a bowl of whipped mascarpone covered with tiny strawberries. Tasted lighter than it sounds. We shared but almost had a spoon battle. Opted for outdoor seating again so never saw their “intimate, rustic dining room.”

Dominico
We wanted to try somewhere new on our last night in Rome, so our host suggested Dominico if we didn’t mind taking a taxi out to the suburbs. This is a small neighborhood restaurant near Saint John Lateran. He said they are known for their wines, and his favorite dish there is ox-tails cooked until very tender. I will admit up front that I really liked every vino bianco della casa I’ve ever ordered in Italy, and was quietly relieved that ox-tails weren’t on the menu that night. Fried anchovies for starters, and more seafood pastas. A fine ending for an enjoyable trip to Italy.

Postscript, a few words about plague travel:

I felt much safer from Covid in Italy than I do in Atlanta. We were asked to show our CDC card at every indoor restaurant, almost every outdoor restaurant, every museum, and every fast train. All museums and the handful of shops we entered required masks. Every taxi driver masked before we entered his cab, and each had a plexi partition separating the seats.

We downloaded the Navica app and took Abbott BinaxNow remote-proctored rapid antigen tests with us. Bought on Amazon. They were straightforward to use, and we waited only a few minutes to get an online proctor. There’s a lot of filming with cell phones required, and an extra pair of hands certainly comes in handy for this. We tested 48 hours before leaving, and if the results had been indeterminate, we would have sought out a local test the next day. All went well. I found the attitude of Italians in general to be respectful and considerate of others’ health. They went through a lot more misery than we did in the US, and they seem to be doing all they can to avoid going through it again. Delta also did a great job of keeping masks on faces.

Ciao bella, Italia! Hope I won’t have to wait another two years to return!

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Ruth, what a wonderful trip report! Very inspirational! I’m definitely bookmarking for future reference.

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Ruth, thank you for such a detailed trip report. I have long wished to travel to this area to many of the same places you visited. I will save your posts and use it in my future research. I love to read personal recommendations and experiences that give me ideas for my own travels. Thanks for sharing.
Pat

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Ruth,
You are an intrepid and inspiring traveler blazing the trail for the rest of us. I am bookmarking your report. I will be in Rome for two days next March, I might book the underground Coliseum tour. Also try some of your restaurant recs.
Thanks for a fun read!

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Thank you for the wonderful trip report. You’ve certainly inspired us to look further!

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Wow, wonderful trip report, Ruth!

So many interesting details to explore further. I’m bookmarking it.

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i felt like I was traveling with you. I really appreciated the details you provided that helped those of us who have not traveled to the places you saw understand the significance of what you were sharing.

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I really enjoyed your trip report. I’m so glad you were able to take a trip while the rest of us are still dreaming. Your restaurant choices sounded wonderful. I hope to visit Italy next year sometime.

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Enjoyed your report. I lived in southern Italy for four years. First two in the town of San Michele Salentino then the last two on San Vito Air Station (Closed now) between San Vito dei Normanni & Brindisi. I enjoyed the region very much as well as my two young boys at the time.

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Thank you for your wonderful trip report! Bookmarking your detailed info for a future trip to the “Stiletto Heel of the Boot.”

“Google and some leads from the travel forum
we’re my most productive services.” I couldn’t agree more!