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This is Gimmelwald!

In 1978, after four years at Northeastern University in Boston, I did not get the job I really wanted, I enrolled for a semester at the American College (now University) in Paris, ended up staying for two years, working as an au pair and living on $311/mo. Thus started my hosteling experience (you don't stay in many hotels on $311/mo. and night trains were how you got to travel cheap). One of the places I heard about was this rustic hostel in a town called Gimmelwald high in the Swiss Alps; no cars, no stores to speak of (you had to bring your own food in). In the fall of '79, my beautiful friend Shari came for a visit to Paris for three weeks and almost two months later she was still with me and we decided to set out for Gimmelwald (Nov.). We arrived early in the morning in Interlaken West and walked to the station at Interlaken Ost to get the local train into the mountains. That first journey on a beautiful sunny day by train from Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen and then by postal bus to Stechelberg and finally our first cable car ride up the sheer cliff to Gimmelwald was amazing; standing outside the hostel gazing at the mountains surrounding us was almost surreal. I thought I had never seen a sight so beautiful. Halfway through the week we were there, the first real snows fell and after the sun shown all day, that night all of us staying at the hostel stood out on the porch listening to the rumbles of avalanches in the mountains. There is great hiking from there to the valley, the caves, other waterfalls and over to the ridge opposite the town.

I continued to make trips back to Gimmelwald and on one of those trips (in my 30th birthday year), my friend and co-worker Skip and Karen, a pediatrician from Montreal, Canada who was staying at the hostel, decided to hike the Schilthorn. It was October (my favorite time to visit the BO) and there was not any snow on the lower elevations. The day was so sunny and warm. we tied our coats around our waists. Our 6 hr. hike took us through Murren, to a restaurant sitting out in a meadow above Murren, to amazing overlooks along the way and finally to a long, flat, rocky ledge about 300 m. below the summit where we hit our first real snow. Climbing up to the summit, the snow was never more than knee-deep but we were wearing hiking boots and it was not really a problem. The view from the top can't be described; see it for yourself. We thought we would hike back down a different way and so took the path to Birg. That path had a sheer drop of what looked like a thousand feet straight down on one side and we found ourselves leaning to the right to make sure we didn't tip over. When we reached Birg, Skip was suffering from a mild case of altitude sickness (beware!) (his face actually took on a pale green look), so we took the cable car back to Gimmelwald. This was one of the great adventures of my life!

Today, I am 61 and don't stay in hostels anymore. My new home on vacation is the Hotel Alpina in Murren with the fabulous balconies that look straight down into the Lauterbrunnen Valley and out over the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau. But every two years, I have returned to Gimmelwald to re-visit, for me, one of the most beautiful places in the world I have ever been. I would encourage you to visit the Mountain Hostel there (which has been totally modernized), say "hello" to Petra and Walter who run the hostel, order a pizza, have a beer and maybe, if you are lucky and at the right time of the season, stand out on the porch and listen to the mountains speaking to you. That is Gimmelwald!

Posted by
7168 posts

Tom, thanks for posting this. Your story brought tears to my eyes. It's not everyone who finds their "perfect" place and those that do often can't return over and over again to experience it again. You are a lucky man.

Posted by
9436 posts

I really enjoyed this Tom, thank you. I agree with you. Gimmelwald / Murren is the most beautiful and spectacular place (in nature) I have ever been. Being 5000' ft up, enveloped by the Alps is beyond description. Love it there!!

Posted by
1931 posts

Loved your story and how wonderful to have experienced Gimmelwald so many years ago. I've only been to Europe four times, but was lucky to include Gimmelwald ( staying with Ollie and Maria) on two of those trips. Like you, Gimmelwald has a deep place in my heart, even bringing tears to eyes on arrival and departure. There is nothing like it! Maybe my heritage is Swiss long ago because nothing moves me like it does. Thank you for sharing your experiences.

Posted by
1 posts

Tom, thanks for sharing your travel experiences. We agree with you--Gimmelwald is one of the most beautiful places on earth! We would not have known about it without Rick Steves, but hiking down the Schilthorn after a breakfast at Piz Gloria and seeing the awe-inspiring majesty was a highlight of our European travels. Several times during the hike, I was overcome by the jaw-dropping beauty. The valley, waterfalls, wildflowers, stopping at a dairy farm for a milkshake, the cows with bells--great memories. We also were able to catch a Baroque concert in a small church in Murren. We stayed at Esther's, enjoying a skylight for incredible views. Thanks for bringing back such great memories!

Posted by
33991 posts

Very much liked the account, and my wife and I were saying how many of those things we have done or contemplated. Glad to say I've never sun into altitude sickness, thank goodness.

I'm so glad that you have been able to continue your relationship with such a gorgeous place.

Posted by
197 posts

Thanks to everyone for their kind thoughts. I wrote this post to let people know what is special about Gimmelwald especially if it is your first experience with the Alps. If you take the cable car from Lauterbrunnen up to Grutschalp to catch the train to Murren, look down and you will see the remnants of the cog railway that used to run up the mountain face. The rail cars were shaped like a flight of stairs and it was fun to sit in the first passenger section and look straight down. I hope people will consider hiking up to the Schilthorn peak for an awesome experience they won't forget. Schilthorn is a 3,000 m. mountain and I advise arriving in Gimmelwald/Murren one or two days in advance to become acclimated. One of the ironies of this area is that in early October, when the sun is out, it feels really warm and even at Gimmelwald's 1,400 m., you will think you don't need a jacket. I advise packing a light sweater and a waterproof jacket because the weather can change quickly and it will be much colder when you hit the snowline. When I did this hike, we also brought sandwiches (for lunch at one of the overlooks), chocolate bars (of course!) and a liter bottle of water each. At this time of the year, hiking boot are a must (I have seen people walking up in sneakers and even sandals and I just shake my head); it might be different in the summer but snow is snow and it is always there. We set out early in the morning and were back in Gimmelwald early afternoon. The cable car stations now have TVs to show you what the weather is like at the top. The scenery is always spectacular but in October, the leaves are turning, bringing some great color to the mountain sides. Go for it!

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22 posts

Thank you for that, Tom! It sounds like a very special place. I just put it on my bucket list, thanks to you.

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1 posts

Thanks for the insights. I will be going to Switzerland for my first time. A place I have wanted to go all my life. Our first few days are going to be in Gimmelwald and after reading your story I am even more excited to get there!!

Posted by
20 posts

I loved your report, as I read it I relived our trip to Switzerland and especially our time in Gimmelwald, When I was planning our trip that year I too read an article from Rick Steves about Gimmelwald. I didn't want to stay at the hostel, I was a little past the age to stay in a hostel, I came across Ester. We booked the two bedroom room as it was bigger than the rest and it was on top of the building with a porch on it. When we got there it was kind of late in the evening and when we got off the cable car the entire top of the mountain was socked in with fog. We could bearly even see the pathway under our feet. I thought great, this isn't going to be so great, I got up the next morning and fell in love with Gimmelwald. Rick Steves said it was the most beautiful place in the world. And it is. We walked around on the walking paths and they had benches along the way. I just sat there thinking how blessed I was to be able to see this place. How lucky the people that live in the place are. They see this every morning. They breath that clean fresh air everyday. I know it must be hard living in the winter but I didn't see anything but beautiful mountains, super nice people and a special feeling of being close to God while setting on that mountain top. IF you every have the chance to visit Switzerland you MUST visit this spectacular place. It really is the most beautiful place in the world. I can't wait to return. While we were there the weather so wonderful and there were mountain jumpers that were jumping off the top of the mountain with parachutes and the suits that make you look like a flying squirrel. We talked to the people that were jumping and they were telling us this place was one of the best places to jump, there came from all over just to jump this mountain. Crazy, I think just a little but the site must be grand

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737 posts

My husband and I (at 50 "something") will be experiencing our very first trip to Europe next spring. I thoroughly enjoyed your story and am so excited to experience the Alps! We plan to do Rick's 21 day Europe Tour....your story makes me so happy that we decided on this tour.......thank you for posting!

Posted by
283 posts

We hiked down from Murren today and had lunch at the restaurant at the Mountain Hostel
in Gimmelwald..a sunny, 68 degree day, blue skyes, great food & service and the view
could not be beat anywhere

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3 posts

My wife and I just returned from a 10 day trip to Switzerland and used Steve's book to help us plan and during the trip...we also visited Gimmelwald after a hike up the Lauterbrunnen valley (an side trip to Trimmelbach falls) and had lunch at the Mountain Hostel (great pizza!)....we did not stay in Gimmelwald but chose Grindelwald instead as our "alpine base". For those considering Gimmelwald I would add the following cautionary notes in addition to seconding the previously-mentioned positive aspects of this beautiful town: 1. in May (and possibly June as well), you will be restricted to only one open restaurant in town (e.g. Mountain Hostel), if that matters to you, (2) the town can seem very "deserted", which can be a positive or negative, depending on your desire for a feeling of remoteness and solitude. In general, May and June are very slow months for the Berner Oberland area which we found both a positive (e.g. no crowds on trains, restaurants, and hotels), and negative ( many restaurants, hiking trails , and lifts can be closed so you can be limited in some respects as what is available) . I'm not trying to throw cold water on staying in Gimmelwald if solitude is your thing, but perhaps an afternoon visit is adequate rather than choosing to stay overnight for one or multiple days. Grindelwald, though more "touristy", did have several more dining and shopping options and open hotels, and you can find several of the latter with a view of the Eiger right off of your room balcony (e.g. try Hotel Spinne).