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The Young Adult and I: Japan

The sun shines brightly as the young adult lies on his back in the courtyard of a Shinto shrine in Kyoto. He is wearing jeans and a t-shirt, but the shirt is pulled up to his chest. On his bare abdomen rests a gigantic, long daikon radish balanced by a couple of large strips of radish peel cut from the radish; the radish is topped by a shiny, red apple. Samurai Joe, our silver-haired guide who has appeared in around 150 movies due to his swordsmanship and who celebrated his 96th birthday the day before our tour, kneels beside the young adult. His right hand wrapped around the handle of his sheathed katana, Samurai Joe focuses on the produce and directs a single word at me. “Ready?” I make sure my phone is recording and respond, “Ready!” The sword is quickly pulled from its sheath! A samurai yell goes up! The blade of the katana reigns down on the apple and the radish! Each rolls off the young adult's trunk in 2 pieces. The young adult looks at his unharmed abdomen, flashes a large smile, laughs repeatedly, and says, “That was cool! That was cool!” Samurai Joe shows that the katana cannot cut through the radish peels he used to balance the radish. The young adult, still on his back, flashes another smile at Samurai Joe, says “Now I fall apart,” closes his eyes and goes limp, feigning death.

The Travelers

Despite my declaration last year that the window for the young adult and I to travel together was closing, we did indeed travel again in May. I am a professional in my early 50’s; the young adult is a 22-year-old student (yay… he’s in school!). We are not related but have known each other for around 10 years and had traveled to 10 countries together over the 3 years prior to this trip. He has a strong interest in Asian culture in general and Japanese culture in particular. I’m more of a Europe guy, but the more I read about Japan, the more excited I became about the trip. As noted in prior trip reports, the young adult has also faced more adversity in his life than any young child/teen/young adult should ever face, yet he remains funny, kind, bright, and eager to share his life.

The Itinerary

The top thing on the young adult’s list of things to see in Japan was… Shiroyama. Not a typical top choice. I had to ask what that is. It is the mountain where Saigō Takamori led 500 sword-armed samurai against 30,000 rifle-armed Japanese Imperial troops in 1877 to conclude the last samurai uprising. Spoiler alert: the samurai lost. Saigō is the historical figure on whom the movie The Last Samurai is very, very, very loosely based. The young adult knew about the Battle of Shiroyama because of his interest in military history, not because of the movie. The final itinerary was Kagoshima in southern Kyushu (where Shiroyama is located) x 4 nights, Kyoto x 5 nights, and Tokyo x 6 nights. Samurai Joe said he was “jealous” of our itinerary because (1) Saigō Takamori was part of it and (2) because of our long-ish stays at each stop.

Kagoshima

The young adult and I were on the second day of two touring with our guide Yaron, an Israeli native who moved to Japan to sell trinkets after his mandatory military service, fell in love with a Japanese woman, married her, and stayed in Japan. At one stop, the young adult asked a detailed question about something we saw in nature. Yaron replied, “No guest has every asked me that.” At another stop, the young adult asked about some small detail he spotted as we wandered in a museum (as he did multiple times the day prior). It’s one of the things I enjoy about traveling with the young adult; he sees things others do not notice. Yaron looked at the young adult and once again said, “No one has ever asked me that.” He added, “You’re smart. Really smart.”

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Kagoshima is located in southern Kyushu and gets very few US or European visitors. The young adult and I were the only non-Asian people on our flight from Tokyo to the city on an Airbus A321. The city is known for friendly people who are eager to talk to visitors in Japanese or in English.

  • Highlight #1: Sakurajima. The morning following our late evening arrival at the hotel, I woke up at 5:30 am and threw open the drapes on the window of my room. My eyes met a massive volcano in the bay on which Kagoshima sits… it was erupting. It was a small eruption, but an eruption, nonetheless. How cool is that? The volcano is one of the main tourist draws to Kagoshima. A ferry runs from the city to the “island” where the volcano sits. Sakurajima was the only place we ran into Westerners in Kagoshima – nearly all doing shore excursions to see the volcano as part of a cruise.
  • Highlight #2: Two days touring with Yaron. Kagoshima sites on Day 1: Sakurajima, a samurai ruling family’s palace & gardens, and Shiroyama. Sites on Day 2 at nearby Chiran: nature, 250-year-old Samurai neighborhood, Chiran Peace Museum (a museum dedicated to the memory of kamikaze pilots and their "brainwashing" at the site of an old airfield that launched planes on such attacks).
  • Highlight #3: Three-hour tour with Toshi from the Kagoshima Goodwill group. There are multiple good will groups around Japan that offer English tours to travelers; the only requirement is that the travelers cover the volunteer guide’s expenses on the tour. Toshi, a 60-something-year-old meat inspector, guided us for a few hours at Sakurajima, showing us things we did not see with Yaron. This was a very nice experience, and at the end of the tour, Toshi gave each of us an origami item his wife had made. Toshi is now my Facebook friend! Here is a website that lists goodwill tour groups in Japan.
  • Lodging: Solaria Hotel Sh*tetsu Kagoshima. A nice business hotel. Around $100 per night. The RS site blocks the post if I don't replace the "i" with an asterisk!
  • Memorable Food #1: Restaurant on the island that served locally sourced vegetarian food. Yaron took us to this great place we would have never known about for lunch. Very kind, hospitable owner who walked out to the edge of the bay with the young adult to look for dolphins.
  • Memorable Food #2: Kagoshima Yataimura. This is a food stall/izakaya complex that was in the basement of our hotel. Yaron recommended it as a place where young adults hang out after work. There was a nice sushi place with a counter and 3-4 tables that we visited two nights. It was quite good.

Hiroshima

As the young adult and I walked around Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, we were approached by some young teen boys in ties and jackets. One nervously struggled to get something out in English. Both the young adult and I said, “You’re doing great. Take your time.” That REALLY made him nervous, and he sputtered worse. Another boy finally said, “We sing” and pointed to a sign and an outdoor space near the Hiroshima Peace Museum. And so we worked our way to where the school group was to perform and watched them sing… accompanied by a Hibaku piano, a restored piano that survived the 1945 bombing.

Hiroshima is on the shinkansen line between Kagoshima and Kyoto, so we stopped for the day.

  • Highlight #1: Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. One of the most somber museums I have encountered. The exhibit starts at one end of the second floor with entry into a very dark exhibit space, which remains dark until one exits into a hall on the other side of the building with floor-to-ceiling windows that show the vibrant, modern city that has risen from the darkness just viewed.
  • Highlight #2: The school choir performance.
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Kyoto

The young adult and I had separate plans one morning with the intention of meeting around 11 am for a Zen meditation lesson and tea ceremony. Dave rose at 6 am to try to beat the crowds at the Fushimi Inari Shrine. The young adult slept. The young adult eventually got up and made his way to the temple complex where the meditation lesson would take place, arriving before me. The young adult met a n older couple from Australia. The wife asked the young adult if he meditated often. The young adult replied, “No,” and a nice conversation followed. When I arrived, the wife asked me the same question. I also said, “No.” The young adult eagerly added, “But I taught him to play shoot-em-up video games. We do that instead.” The wife said “Oh” and looked very disturbed. She walked away and avoided us (and our negative energy?) the rest of the activity.

  • Highlight #1: Samurai Joe! We did a 5-hour private tour that included meeting some of Joe’s friends who own shops in the city, getting a calligraphy lesson (Dave’s grade from Samura Joe: B+; the young adult’s grade: C-), visiting shrines, watching a sword demonstration (and receiving a lesson!), eating a yakiniku lunch (meat we grilled at the table), and walking through a market. A great tour. And… if you ask… I’ll tell the story of how the young adult accidentally got the 96-year-old tour guide a little inebriated.
  • Highlight #2: Daytrip to Himeji Castle, one of the major wooden castles in Japan. It was great.
  • Highlight #3: Small-group Zen meditation and tea ceremony. This was a quite nice activity. The monk gave a short opening explanation and mentioned, somewhat surprisingly to us, that he could beat us with a stick during our meditation. During meditation session #1, no one in our group of about 20 took him up on the offer. During the break between the two meditation sessions, the monk enthusiastically reminded us he could beat us. Shortly into meditation session #2, no one was giving the sign to be beaten. So… Dave decided to get the beating rolling and gave the signal. A couple of firm whacks with a stick on both sides of the back. A few other participants followed. Who knew Zen meditation included being beaten by a monk?
  • Highlight #4: Aoi Matsuri Festival. One of Kyoto’s main festivals, it originated in the 6th century AD and ends with a colorful, impressive procession from Kyoto’s Imperial Palace to a temple. I got tickets to the seating area at the palace by logging on to the festival website when tickets went on sale. Tickets were then printed out at a 7-11 after arrival in Kyoto. Super easy to do. And it was very interesting to watch a procession that has been done for around 1500 years. We wore thin shrine jackets given to us by the restaurant owner from our meal with Samurai Joe because he wanted his temple to be represented at the event.
  • Highlight #5/Memorable Food #1: Dinner with a Kyoto family. On the Eat With website, I found an American husband and Japanese wife who offered a cooking lesson in their home followed by dinner with the family, including their children. This was a lot of fun and a great way to escape the typical tourist areas while learning about daily life in Japan. A better way to contact the family than through Eat With is to go to their website.
  • Memorable Food #2: McDonald’s. We broke down. It was good. Except the teriyaki burger. Not my favorite.
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- Lodging: Piece Hostel Sanjo. The goal was to stay at a place where the young adult could hang out with other young adults in the evening while the old guy retired to his room. Both of us had a single room with en-suite bath. The plan worked some, but I think it would have worked much better if the young adult had been in a dorm room. I had encouraged that before the trip, but the young adult had said he wasn’t ready for that yet. The young adult hung out some with a young nutritionist from Amsterdam who was spontaneously traveling from town to town and hostel to hostel “as his spirit moved” during his time in Japan. I sensed a feeling of something beyond longing and closer to sorrow on the part of the young adult that he was not traveling likewise. Price around $90 per night.

Tokyo

The young adult and I stayed at *Hotel Graphy Shibuya. I made sure the young adult had the Go Taxi app on his phone in case he wanted to go out on his own or with others and stay out until after the last train ran. He went out late one night in Shinjuku taking photos with a film camera found in his grandfather’s things. He finished up after the trains had stopped running. The following morning, I woke up to 2 missed text messages from the young adult. Message #1 time stamped at around 1 am (in a language I will refer to as “Gen Z”): “Did a woopsy chose the wrong hotel for go to just realized and 4/5 of the way there I am at **Graphy NNEZU”. Message #2: “I’ll walk to ours [smile emoji].” Dave’s first thought: “AAAAAHHHH!” I checked Google Maps; it was a 6.6 mile walk, and there were no further messages. Dave’s next thought: “AAAAAHHHH!” I called the young adult’s phone and got a groggy Hello. He had made it back to our hotel and was sleeping. We regrouped that afternoon. He told me he really enjoyed the late-night walk. And he did indeed get a lot of nice photos!*

  • Highlight #1: Sumo. We were in Tokyo during one of the six annual Grand Sumo Tournaments. I tried to buy tickets online when they went on sale, but I missed the start time for sales by an hour, and all tickets were sold. I found a tour that included a sumo lunch and attendance at the sumo tournament in a small group of around 16 or so with a guide. This worked out so much better than getting tickets on our own. Our young guide Hiro LOVED sumo. His enthusiasm and knowledge greatly enhanced the experience. Everyone in our group adopted Hiro’s favorite wrestler as our own favorite wrestler.
  • Highlight #2: Opera. We had the good fortune to be in town when Madame Butterfly was playing at the New National Theater. What better opera to see in Japan?
  • Highlight #3: Food Tour. We did Ninja Food Tour’s Best of Izakaya tour in Shinjuku. It was great. We walked through the busiest areas of Shinjuku but made food stops in more quiet areas of the district. We had an impressive amount of food, and our guide was excellent… a budding actress who gives food tours to earn money to keep the dream alive.
  • Highlight #4: Nikko. All sorts of UNESCO World Heritage things to see. We also visited Lake Chuzenji, ate fresh grilled trout and noodles at a lakeside restaurant, heard but did not see Kegon Waterfall due to cloud cover, and walked the path along Kanmangafuchi Abyss.
  • Memorable Restaurant: Sushi Tokyo Ten. An omakase (chef’s choice) sushi restaurant where we had around 25 small courses of sushi made from seafood fresh from the morning market. We sat at the counter and watched as the sushi chef made our food. A really nice experience that didn’t break the bank like other omakase places can. We never made it to a conveyor belt sushi place.
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  • Young Adult Favorite Retail #1: Tower Records. The young adult loves music, and he really, really loved this store. Who would have thought you could walk into a brick-and-mortar store, listen to music, and then buy cds/vinyl of what you just heard? Well, everyone my age of course. But for a Gen Z kid? It was a spiritual experience.
  • Young Adult Favorite Retail #2: Uniqlo. The exchange rate made clothes impressively affordable. He bought some, including what appeared to be good-quality $8 t-shirts in a variety of colors.
  • Lodging: Hotel Graphy Shibuya. This was another hotel/hostel combo that has single rooms with ensuite bathroom and dorm rooms. Both of us again had a single room. Despite me reading reviews of single travelers having good experiences there, the place was less social than the Kyoto hostel but again, I think things would have gone better if the young adult had stayed in a dorm room.

Apps

  • Useful App #1: The SmartEx app worked great for trains.
  • Useful App #2: the Go Taxi app worked great for calling a taxi. Users formerly had to have a Japan SIM card for this to work, but this is no longer required. It worked great on my US T-Mobile phone.

Conclusion

This was another rather enjoyable trip with the young adult. Favorite activities? Samurai Joe and sumo. As we finished our flights on the Around the World trip last year, we talked about the things the young adult needed to accomplish, and both of us thought future travel would be hard to make happen. As we neared the end of our final flight for this trip, however, the young adult looked at me and said, “This was a great trip. I think we’ll travel together again. Do you think we’ll travel together again? I think we will.” I expressed hope but have to admit I wondered in my head if the young adult has reached the point where he needs to strike out on his own or travel with peers. He'll get to do that domestically. The affable young adult was elected vice president of the student body at his college and has a couple of long weekend trips this fall with his fellow student government officers. We'll see how future travel pans out for the young adult and I.

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As always, Dave, a lovely and thoughtful tale of your and the young adults travels together. I do hope you can manage to carry on doing so in the future. And yes, please do tell us the story about Samurai Joe getting slightly inebriated!

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Since you asked for the story of Samurai Joe and inebriation...

At lunch, Samurai Joe asked us what we wanted to drink. We both said, "Coca-Cola." Samurai Joe responded with a guttural disapproving grunt and said, "No alcohol? No whiskey? No beer?" Both of us being people pleasers, we agreed to alcohol -- a beer for me and a double whiskey for the young adult. Samurai Joe also got a double whiskey. Toward the end of the meal, Samurai Joe asked if we wanted more to drink. I declined. The young adult said he would take another double whiskey. Samurai Joe turned to the waiter/owner and said, "One double whiskey!" The young adult, always eager to help, shook his head yes at the waiter and said, "One double whiskey." When the owner delivered two double whiskeys to the table, we realized he thought both wanted another double whiskey. Samurai Joe did not. He slowly sipped on his whiskey. Then he poured some of his whiskey into the young adult's glass. We sat for a while after lunch as Samurai Joe steadied himself. Then, we walked a block to the market with Samurai Joe a little unsteady on his feet. We stopped at some stalls of people who knew Samurai Joe. With big smiles on their face, they talked to Samurai Joe. He responded with a lot Japanese. The one word we understood was "whiskey" that came with a thumb point at the young adult. The vendors were commenting on his bright red cheeks! At one point, Samurai Joe sent us into a convenience store to look around so he could sit. We returned to find him dozing upright. It was the end of the tour, and he needed to get to the train station. We took a cab to our hostel because the young adult -- always eager to share his life -- wanted to give Samurai Joe a copy of a college magazine that had published some of his photography. This bought more time for Samurai Joe to sober up. He seemed better at the hostel. We then sent him off to the train station hoping for the best. A few days later, we saw him doing a tour with a couple. All was well. We said hi. He was happy to see us! And the young adult was pleased that he could without guilt add the story of how he got a 96-year-old tour guide drunk to his repertoire of stories.

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Dave: good trip report, thanks. Appreciate the tips you included.

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Dave, appreciate the trip report. I've saved it for if I ever get back to Japan.

Did Samurai Joe say anything about what martial art he was using to draw and cut with the Katana?

I was wondering about:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iaido

[snip]
Iaidō (居合道), abbreviated iai (居合),[3] is a Japanese martial art that emphasizes being aware and capable of quickly drawing the sword and responding to sudden attacks.[4]

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It made me smile just to see the title of your trip report. So glad you two got back on the road again!

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I really enjoyed your trio report — brought back memories of our 2 trips to Japan, both many years ago.

We spent a few hours in Kagoshima, on our way to a ryokan way up in the mountains. We had no idea where we were going — only that we would take bus number something a few hours from Kagoshima. It all worked out! In Kagoshima we visited a museum about the Meiji Restoration, in the hope that we would understand what the Meiji Restoration was all about. It was a cool museum with hologram figures (very cool 30 years ago), but we walked out still puzzled about what the Meiji Restoration was all about.

On that trip we visited Nagasaki and Hiroshima and visited the museums about the atomic bombs in both cities. Very somber experience, except one display about the background of why WW II took place. One panel read, “the surprise attack on Pearl Harbor hurtled Japan into World War 2.” Huh? My spouse and I just broke out laughing.

We loved Japan. It seems like we need to go back.