Note: This Trip Report appeared last year in other travel forums, but I wasn't able to place it here properly. Hence, this reprise in full, instead of through a dodgy link. Enjoy.
What follows is both leeengthy and jUmBLed. It may serve as a sort of trip-report-plus-tips-list based upon our recent ramblings around Burgundy and Paris. It has been re-read many times by the Department of Redundancy Dept. to ensure that there was no undue repetition, incorect spelling or grammar badly. It has been re-read many times by the Department of Redundancy Dept. to ensure that there was no undue repetition, incorect spelling or grammar badly.
See also our advice for shutterbugs. We hope that those who may be Burgundy-bound will find something of use.
Best new Parisian discovery: attached to the southern riverside facade of Paris' Hotel de Ville City Hall is a peaceful rose garden called 'Jardin des Combattants de la Nueve'. It is dedicated to the Spanish soldiers who aided in the liberation of Paris and offers a sheltered respite from the busy crowds just outside. Who knew? Bliss.
Best Traboule in Old Lyon: 16. r.d. Boeuf aka La Tour Rose; this historic pink tower is part of a 'miraboule' kind of traboule, opening onto a lovely courtyard. Skip the traboule tours, most others are dingy and underwhelming. We rented one of the three apartments at the aforementioned La Tour Rose and would recommend doing so.
Most Useful public bus in Burgundy: Transco #44 aka The Burgundy Express--much like vaporetto #1 in Venice, the value here (less than 2 euros) is unbeatable as you connect between Beaune and Dijon and most points between.
Most sympa apartment rental in Dijon: 'My Home In Dijon'--outstanding value. Coco will take care of you.
Most underrated daytrip out of Dijon: Semur-en Auxois (bus #49 dep. 7am)-not only is this a quintessential small French town where traditions still run deep, but it has world-class photo ops from its bridges Pont Pinard and Pont Joly. Skip the heavily-promoted belvedere vista up by the Citroen dealer---a hedge has been allowed to overgrow into the perspective and the view has been compromised. The St. Vernier restaurant in Semur is not yet in any guidebook (zero tourists). It specializes in local Epoisse cheese dishes.
Most underrated daytrip out of Beaune: Orches. This cliffside village in the Haut Cotes west of Meursault has excellent valley views and is quite pretty in and of itself. Added value: La Rochepot chateau-castle is just down the road, if you're into that sort of thing.
Most overrated vista: the ex-St. Christophe church archaeological site looming far above Meursault. Meh...
Most interesting Burgundian wine-producer whose reds and whites won't cost you a second-mortgage:
Pascal Prunier Bonheur. His farm-cave is right at the top of Meursault on the border with Auxey-Duresses.
Full disclosure: he helped us out of a jam, literally (see below). Seriously, his white Monthelie and his red St. Romain were just 2 of his seven very, very good wines.
(end of part one)