We found only one seal in Portnahaven, but had a good walk around the town, and took advantage of the very clean public loo. We walked down to the beach, and found a good bit of sea glass for friends in the U.S. We drove back to Port Charlotte in search of lunch, but by the time we arrived, lunch was over, and no one was serving food. The local Spar had absolutely nothing that looked remotely appetizing, but someone recommended the Oyster Shed, on the bank of Loch Gruinart. Off we went in search of lunch. The road to the Oyster Shed is on the worst road I have ever experienced in Scotland. It was a pothole masquerading as a road. I never made it past 5 mph the whole way.
Once we arrived at the Oyster Shed, naturally, they had stopped serving lunch. I put on my best Oliver Twist act, and said, "We've been on the road for hours. Can you at least give us a slice of bread?" They agreed to give us a slice of cake and a pot of tea, which we gratefully consumed. Afterward, it was back down the pothole/road, and off to the RSPB Preserve at Loch Gruinart. We walked out to the hides, and saw several types of birds, including mute swans and some type of swallows, as well as red deer.
We arrived back in Port Charlotte, hoping to have dinner at the hotel before the music started. I guess you know what's coming next! "Do you have a reservation?" Well, obviously not, and the bar where the music to be held was packed with people, so we decided to call it a day, and headed back to Port Ellen. We had a takeaway from Ellen's Wok, treats from the Co-op (Cadbury's doughnuts and fresh raspberries!), and packed for our departure the next day.
Thursday, July 18th.: We bid farewell to Islay, and Niall, our host, and boarded the ferry for Kennacraig. We were hoping for the MV Finlaggan again, but this time it was the MV Hebridean Isles, which as it turns out is due to be decommissioned in November. There was little in the way of creature comforts on the Heb Isles, but at least we were getting back towards our next destination.
Once we arrived in Kennacraig, we headed over to Tarbert for the ferry to Portavadie, first stopping by Tarbert's only charity shop. Another wild ride, this time on the MV Isle of Cumbrae. Once we arrived in Portavadie, we drove through Tighnabruaich on the way to Colintraive for the ferry to Rhubodach. We were hoping to see the view down the Kyles of Bute from the overlook at Tighnabruaich, but it was happed in mist. Once we reached Colintraive, we paid our fare in the ticket office (last time over, I had made the mistake of driving on to the ferry without paying first, and the ferry almost left without me, as I had to run back to the ticket office to pay), and drove on to the MV Loch Dunvegan III. This is one of the shortest CalMac routes in Scotland. In five minutes, the ramp was down, and we were on Bute.
Our destination was the Kingarth Hotel, but first we stopped in Rothesay for lunch (Meal Deal at the Co-op), and a visit to a couple of charity shops. We asked at the information office where the nearest laundrette was, and were directed to one on Victoria Street. We decided to keep the laundry (our last of the tour) for the following day, and drove to the Kingarth Hotel. What a delightful hotel, in a great location out in the countryside. We were housed in the annex, which we were somewhat unsure about at first, but it turned out to be a wonderful room, and the first accommodation we've ever had in Scotland that had a television built in to the bathroom wall! Not only that but the bedroom window looked out on to a field where two horses were frolicking (at least that was what we hoped they were doing!). We had an excellent meal in the hotel restaurant (Yes, this time we made a reservation!).
(Yes, there's more to come...)