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The OTHER Mallorca

So I wrote about going to Mallorca for a Hen party, staying at an all-inclusive. I've been so busy with travel lately that I haven't had time to plan my travel, so when my husband's leave snuck up on us and it was time to go somewhere, we just checked the cheapest last minute flights and found $60 r/t flights Stuttgart to Mallorca.

So 6 days after returning, I was heading back! It makes more sense than it sounds - I'd done Palma a few years ago and really liked it, and I'd seen so much beautiful scenery and interesting old towns just during the airport transfers to the all-inclusive that I really wanted to explore Mallorca my way.

We stayed in Palma 2 nights, and 3 nights in the little village of Cala Sant Vincenc, near Pollenca.

Palma:
Our flight was scheduled to arrive at 20:15, but we were delayed until 21:00. We were on a strange little Austrian airline called "LaudaMotion" which has apparently been purchased by RyanAir, and our boarding passes were RyanAir, which made us quite nervous about our luggage, but no one glanced at it. The airline was fine, a typical European budget airline. The flight attendants wore jeans as part of their uniform, and were either older or younger than you usually expect, but it didn't matter much, and our flight was nearly empty.

From the airport we took the #1 bus into Palma, only took 20 minutes and was pretty reasonable at 4 euros each way. We checked into our hotel, the Innside City Center by Melia. We splurged a bit on our hotels for this trip compared to our usual travel style, as this was an anniversary trip, and I was very impressed with the Innside. Beautiful, modern rooms, a rooftop terrace with sunbeds and a pool, a bar with room service, amazing shower, and the most comfortable hotel bed I've ever slept in. At 130 euro/night I thought this was a good value.

It was getting late, so we ran around the corner to Casa Gallega Avenidas, a decently reviewed tapas-and-seafood bar. We were told the kitchen was closed, but we pointed to some of the big pinchos at the bar, and they said we could have them. They were pretty decent, and we were starving. Would have liked to have tried the hot menu.

We wanted to get a drink or two and walk around the old town, despite it being past 23:00 at this point, but I'd done my research and made notes of a handful of bars that were supposedly open until 1:00-2:00 a.m....and we were turned away from them by staff who all insisted they were closing, right now. It was frustrating. And it wasn't that the hours online were incorrect, this is also what was printed at the bars themselves. It was a Sunday, however.

We ended up at the Born quarter, where things were still lively, largely due to the presence of what I came to call 'Yacht Brits'. We managed to get a couple drinks in the legendary Cafe Atlantico, a US Marine bar specializing in cocktails. A little too touristy for me, but it did have some fun decor and most importantly, it was open late.

Then it was finally time to sleep. Day 2 when we continue...

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Day 2: Palma De Mallorca
This is our only full day in Palma so it was primarily dedicated to sightseeing. We headed across the city on foot to C'an Joan De S'aigo, a cafe famous for it's ensimada pastry. In addition to being very reasonably priced and having delicious food and coffee, the cafe itself is nearly 300 years old and the interior is beautiful. Highly recommend.

We then explored the medieval city, dodging horse-drawn carriages everywhere. We saw the Arab Baths, the Sant Francesc church (of note to us Californians, because it was where Father Junepero Serra, a native Mallorca, worked before he went to California to found the mission system there). It was that church where we purchased a special pass that covered admission to 5 churches in town, including the cathedral, with a potential savings of up to 8 euros. Because of that, we then hit Santa Eulalia, which was unique in that we could walk on the "balcony" before touring the church.

We went to Las Olas Bistro, which is a charming restaurant that specializes in fusion tapas, particularly Southeast Asian inspired tapas, on account of the chef, who used to cook for the wealthy on their yachts, is French-Cambodian. Supposedly her husband, who runs the place, is friendly, but our Mallorcan server on duty that day was not, but we didn't exactly get a lot of smiles with service on this trip. Guidebooks say that's standard for Mallorca. I guess at the all-inclusives one of the amenities you're paying for is the staff to pretend to like you! Anyway, it didn't much matter because the food was delicious. I highly recommend this place.

We strolled around afterwards and sat for a beer from Nana Cafe at the lovely Placa Weyler, under a highly unusual tree and across from the Guadi-inspired Can Casasays

Then it was on to the Cathedral (definitely in a top 5 of European churches) which was not too busy at 16:00 on a Monday, took in some great sea views (and said goodbye to some utterly massive cruise ships) and decided to enjoy the pool and sun terrace at the hotel for a late-afternoon rest.

My plan for dinner was to enjoy Spanish tapas at Bar Espana, but despite being in a tucked-away location, it was very crowded. By this point it was 21:00, so we decided to try another well-reviewed restaurant nearby, Bocalto Tapas. Their tapas menu was acutally pretty restricted, but they did have a large burger menu, and we caved. (It's not like we can get good burgers in Stuttgart, so we often do find ourselves eating gourmet burgers when we travel to other countries). It was a great decision, my burger was delicious. Sadly we didn't realize they had local craft beer until we'd already ordered our draft regular beers.

We tried to go to the Guinness House pub across from the lagoon for the amazing nighttime Cathedral views, but like everything else, it was closed earlier than the posted hours, but we got to enjoy the views regardless. We walked through the always-hopping Born to Corner Bar, which is apparently a dive for Yacht Brits. It's a fun, unassuming place. Closed it out and headed back to the hotel for a good night's sleep before our departure to the North of the Island.

Day 3 to be continued...

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Day 3: Cala Sant Vincenc

We checked out of our hotel and took the bus to the airport to pick up our rental car ($30/day from Hertz for an automatic - not too shabby). Driving the main roads in Mallorca was a piece of cake. In less than an hour we arrived at the tiny beach resort of Cala Sant Vincenc, formerly a fishing village. It's on the other side of the massive Cape Formentor from Port Pollenca, and just a few kilometers from the historic town of Pollenca. We decided to base here for good beach and hiking access, with no mega-resorts, just a couple smaller ones.

We splurged on the Hotel Cala Sant Vincent and while there were aspects of it I really liked, including it's beautiful pool area, varied and well-done breakfast (included), and the large two-story room with terrace, I felt that for the price the service should have been better. I'll probably write a separate review of it.

Once checked in, we started exploring the 4 calas (coves) that collectively make up the beach of the town. We had lunch on the terrace of the posh Hotel Niu overlooking pretty Cala Barques, but afterwards found beach heaven at Cala Molins, a narrow but beautifully sandy cover with amazing turquoise water. We spent the afternoon relaxing on the beach, and I swam. I can see where it must get packed in high season, but it wasn't too bad in early June. The cove is borded by a huge rock wall that's part of the Serra Tramutana mountains, giving it a fjord-like feel.

After washing up at the hotel, we took a pre-dinner walk around the rocky penninsula that separates the two main calas, thanks to the stunning light display of the sunset reflected on the mountains. Just breathtaking.

Because it was a Tuesday, 2 of the town's 4 non-hotel restaurants were closed, so we opted for dinner at the very casual Marinas Bar. I have to say it really exceeded expectations. With a view of the sea and a menu of tapas and seafood for next to nothing, we were extremely impressed (and full) after our dinner. We'd planned on hitting the happening pool bar at the Santido hotel we could see from the restaurant, but having gorged ourselves we were too sleepy to do anything but have a drink poolside at our hotel before falling into bed.

Day 4 awaits...

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Day 4: Cape Formentor

The weather had predicted rain all day, but it was sunny when we woke up. We decided to visit the vistas from Cape Formentor, where the mountains tumble into the sea. Immediately I was glad to have rented an automatic, despite my husband's ability to drive manual - the road up the cape from Port Pollenca is extremely narrow and full of steep hairpin curves. It wouldn't have been so bad if not overrun by tourist coaches who took up much of the road when going around those curves. We first stopped at Formentor beach, famous for it's beauty and quite busy, although the far right side of the beach had both better water and was far emptier than the center, which was crowded with families. The views from the beach and white sand were amazing. After I splashed around a bit, we walked as far as we could, leaving behind the beach and eventually entering a rocky area with wonderful views of an island just off the coast, with the occassional expensive wooden speed boat or tourist booze cruise to keep us company.

We passed the historic Hotel Formentor, with rooms starting around $350/night, it's housed royalty and celebrities. Unfortunately there was absolutely no access to the hotel grounds for non-guests, although weirdly, the beach area claimed by the hotel is about a 10 minute walk from the gate, and full of seaweed next to the busiest part of the beach. I'd be a little mad if I'd paid for that luxury only to be on the least impressive part of the beach.

We returned to our car and debated driving another 11 km to the lighthouse (which isn't accessible to the public) but the road had already made me nervous, and we'd only gone 7 km. So we returned, stopping at the viewpoint with a great walk to see the steep peaks as they plunge into the sea below.

The sun had stayed out for a bit so we decided to get some pool time in at the hotel, but just 10 minutes before the pool closing, the promised storm came in and it was crazy. There was a serious downpour for over 2 hours. We hadn't bought umbrellas and weren't sure how we were going to get to dinner, or if we'd have to eat at the reportedly overpriced hotel restaurant of middling quality. As we were debating our situation at the hotel bar, the rain stopped, and we walked a few blocks to Restaurant Modesto, famous for meats grilled over a wood stove.

The restaurant is small and we hadn't made reservations, but the very kind host asked us to come back in 20 minutes, so we took a walk along the creek that normally is only a trickle, but we got to observe the remains of the rainstorm thundering out to sea, and walked up to Cala Carbo and met some wild goats on the way.

Dinner was phenomenoal. The restaurant setting is in a home with whitewashed walls with great service. I had the daily special, beef skewers, and my husband had grilled lamb chops with mint and honey. Simple food well-prepared with great smoky flavor. We split a bottle a red blend from a winery a few kilometers away which went well with the food. They confused our side potato order so when they saw me grabbing a few fries from my husband's plate, the owner apologized and insisted on bringing me my own side of fries, which was completely unnecessary. We also saw them do a very nice birthday cake for a young couple. By far the best service we experienced in Mallorca and both our entrees were under 15, which was entirely reasonable. We ordered a glass of "hierbas", the herbal digestif popular in Mallorca (most famous brand is "Tunel") and when we complimented them on the homemade hierbas, we were each given a substantial second serving on the house.

A little tipsy at this point, we got to see some great views of the starry sky since the clouds had cleared and fell into bed for some very good sleep.

Day 5 is next...

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Day 5: Cape Victoria, Alcudia, Port Pollenca

We woke up to a 7am thunderstorm but by 9am that had passed and we got breakfast and put our beach stuff in the car. We decided to explore the largely untouristy Cap Victoria, which is a smaller cape that separates Pollenca bay from Alcudia bay. I'd read about a small beautiful beach with no services except a beach bar called S'ilot, and found it easy to access and aside from a kayaking class that ended shortly after we arrived, only inhabited by a handful of people. There are no major hotels in the area, and none at all on this beach, but it was one of the most beautiful spots I've ever been to.

My husband chilled with a book and I hit the pebbly beach and had a wonderful swim. There's a picnic area above the beach, complete with a handicapped-accessible table and bathroom that made a convenient place to change out of my wet swimsuit. We relaxed at the beach bar and ordered some fried baby squid and just marveled at the view and the unpredictably sunny weather. The small marina town of Bonaire is nearby and I'm already planning on renting a villa with a group of friends in this wonderful, unspoiled area next summer. It was just perfect.

Eventually we made our way back to the old walled town of Alcudia. I'd had dinner there during the hen party the weekend prior, but we didn't have time to really explore the city, or the Roman ruins of the ancient settlement of Pollentia just outside the city walls. The ruins are well presented and more extensive than I'd realized, and the ticket price of 4 euros also grants admission to a small museum showing the finds from the site. We wandered around the town and got a very nice plate of local cheese and meat (with excellent sangria for me) at a trendy but reasonable cafe just outside the Porta del Moll.

Back at our hotel, our plan had been to catch the bus to the seaside resort of Port Pollenca for dinner and drinks, and take a taxi back. But with the weather now sunny but only about 70 degrees, instead of pool or beach time I reluctantly suggested we do the hike across the mountain pass to dinner. Google had the walk at just about an hour, but knowing that I'm slow and whiny, I gave us an hour and a half before our reservations at the the tapas restaurant La Cabana. I was right to do so, because after a step climb (more goats!) up a real road, the hike started a gradual downhill through a valley, then suddenly turned into a serious scramble down what appears to be a dry creekbed (and after the previous night's storm, it was only somewhat dry). Luckily we'd both worn good shoes, but it was about 30 minutes of hopping down small boulders. I checked our map repeatedly and this was the trail, which is not exactly what's written online. Regardless, we made it, victorious, into the outskirts of Port Pollenca, and with 5 minutes to spare, we found ourselves on the soft white sands of Pollenca bay. I dipped my feet in, changed shoes, put on a necklace and some lipstick, and was ready for dinner.

La Cabana was very nice, and I'm glad we'd made reservations because the couple in front of us were turned away without them. Huge portion sizes, even if the "tapas" versus "raciones". We had a couple different kinds of croquettes, bread with onion marmalade and warm goat cheese, patatas bravas with a honey mustard sauce, gambas con ajo y chili, and a pitcher of Sangria. Not native Mallorcan food, but what we can say, we like tapas! Stuffed again (notice a theme here?) we decided to do the walk along the bay that turns into Pine Walk, a prominade overlooked by historic villas, all the way across the bay to the famous old Hotel Illa d'Or, where Agatha Cristie stayed and set a short story at, "The Problem at Pollensa Bay".

Cont....

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We'd had the option to stay at the Hotel for a surprisingly good price, and I almost did, but thought the built-up resort town of Port Pollenca would be a little too busy and touristy for our tastes, and I think I was right. Plus it's a damn long walk from the center of town, even if it's a pleasant one. Still, it wouldn't be a bad place to stay at all.

We also got great views of La Foraleza, a 17th century fortress that has been turned into a villa that sold for nearly 40 million in 2011. It's famous as Richard Roper's villa in "The Night Manager." Unfortunately it's surrounded by a military area and it's privately owned so you can only visit it 4 days out of the year.

After a glass of wine and checking out the hotel we made our way back, although by this time (11:00) the seafront restaurants and bars were closed or closing, and my husband was nervous about getting a taxi back, so went to find the new taxi stand. And lo and behold, it tooks us down a pedestrian street to the main square, Placa Miguel Capllonch, and THAT'S where the party was - ridiculous, loud bars full of people spilling out onto the street. Irish pubs, Aussie pubs...it was like a mini-Magaluf. Seeing as how it was our last night, we joined the party for a nightcap at the very silly Bar Bony, which has ridiculous signs in muddled English but fast and friendly service.

At the taxi stand there were at least 6 taxis waiting at midnight so we had no issue getting one, and the ride back was less than 15 euros with tip, so worth it for a fun night out.

Day 6: Home again, home again

Pretty boring, we had a relaxed breakfast, I'd packed the evening before, and we departed around 11:00 a.m. for a 14:15 flight. No issue returning the car, and we had time to relax a bit at the airport's open air area before going through security. Our flight was unremarkable and we even beat a series of thunderstorms that rocked Stuttgart later that afternoon.

I forgot to mention that on day 4, on our way back from Formentor, we stopped at the historic and now somewhat upscale town of Pollenca, which is beautiful and full of hip little cafes and botiques, and seems popular with English expats. We walked 365 steps up the "Cavalry" to a small pilgrimage church, compete with church chats, and impressive views of the countryside and even Cala Sant Vincenc some 5 km away. We had planned on eating a late lunch there, but we got a hangry attack when we were at the viewpoint and had a hot dog that sadly filled us up through dinner, so I can't do a restaurant report for Pollenca, but it's well worth a visit.

Final thoughts are next...

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Final thoughts:

Mallorca is really an island of contrasts. It has some of the most beautiful coastline I've ever seen, and I'd like to think I'm an expert. And it IS possible to avoid the party scene, the all-inclusive scene, and hordes of tourists if you plan correctly. I wish we'd scheduled an extra night up in the north, as I'd like to have done some mountain driving to hill towns like Deia and Soller, and honestly we would have had plenty to fill our time just in the northwest with a trip twice as long.

Hotel prices are high and while I enjoyed our splurge in Palma, I think if I were to go to a coastal area I'd rent an apartment or if traveling with friends, a villa. The pin-drop quiet scene of older British folks who seemed to only stay around the pool wasn't actually all that relaxing, and yet it doesn't seem to make sense to pay for all these amenities when we're spending most of our time away from the hotel anyway.

I really dig Palma - it is right up there with any of the most scenic, historic cities I've visited, it's a manageable size, it's got a great food scene. Even if people are totally uninterested in the beach scene in Mallorca, if you find cheap flights to Palma, it's absolutely worth it as a city trip alone.

Overall I'm kind of in love with Mallorca, and think it's underrated due to it's reputation as a party or family resort destination. Due to the crowds it hasn't fully replaced Greece as my favorite sea vacation place, but it's close, and it's a bit cheaper and easier to get to. It's quite possible to eat very well here on a budget, although it's not as cheap as Greece and the people aren't nearly as friendly. I really hope to return next summer with my friends for a villa trip where those who want to explore can do so and those who want to sit by the pool can do so as well, the Cape Victoria/Bonaire area is a real find!

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Now that I've hit some of the bigger US tourist spots in Germany (Berlin, Munich, Leipzig, Nuremberg, Wittenberg, Black Forest, Bodensee/Lake Constance, Berchtesgaden, STUTTGART!, and [in September] the Upper Middle Rhine Valley), I've decided it's time to start vacationing like a German. I think I'm going to hit the Harz Mountains next summer. Mallorca is definitely on the list, too. The question is... how do I best vacation like a German there... crazy party life? All-inclusive? Independent travel? Of course, the whole overweight, balding, middle-age guy thing probably rules out crazy party life...