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The Levant Part 1: Lebanon

We just returned from 6 days in Lebanon and 13 days in Syria. I will write a separate report for Syria.

Our time in Lebanon was short because during the planning stages there was a lot of volatility there and my wife, Jamelie, was nervous. Being of Lebanese heritage, it was important for me to visit and, once there, we both regretted not allotting more time. This was my first time in Lebanon.

We did not use any tour companies but had pre-arranged to have a driver, a cousin of a friend here in the US. We paid him a set daily fee plus the cost of gas. He, Gilbert, was at our disposal each day to take us wherever we decided. That allowed us to make a loose itinerary and adjust as we liked. We could have arranged a taxi each day for about the same money but it was much better to have consistency with someone we trusted. Gilbert also often made suggestions about where to visit, which took us to places we wouldn’t have otherwise seen.

The US dollar is the preferred currency, with change often given in Lebanese Lira. We carried both newer $100s and smaller bills. ATMs are often unreliable, or so we were told…we didn’t have to try. Hotels took credit cards, as did most restaurants, though we always paid in cash. All of our hotels were pre-booked from home.

Sufficient English is spoken in most restaurants and all hotels. Vendors in small shops and street markets may speak some basic English.

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Getting There

There are currently no direct flights from the US to Beirut. An itinerary with a layover in the Middle East or Europe must be booked. Carriers include Turkish Air(via Istanbul), Qatar Airlines (via Doha), Emirates (via Dubai). We chose to fly United from SFO through London and then into Beirut using Middle East Airlines (MEA), the national Lebanese carrier. This itinerary had the most reasonable layover for us and MEA is a member of Star Alliance so the ticket could be purchased as one trip.

MEA planes and service are top notch. The seats on the Airbus were roomier and more comfortable than on the Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner on the United flight. The meal was excellent.

Immigration

There are no visa requirements for entering Lebanon. Research suggested we would receive an entry card and have to show it when exiting but that was not the case. Immigration was straightforward and easy, though the queue was long. We were the only non-Arab speaking people that evening. Though I speak and read/write enough Arabic to get by, it was easier to just tell the immigration agent I don’t. He was surprised and shrugged his shoulders, maybe because his English wasn’t much better than my Arabic. We had a written proof of our hotel bookings but didn’t have to actually show them, we just had to tell him the name and phone number of the first night.

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Phone Service

We used Airalo for data only. It was expensive, $19.95 for 1 GB and then another $19.95 for a 3 GB top-up. They have since lowered the initial price to $9.50 for 1 GB.

Coverage was good everywhere we went. Lodging WIFi was always reliable so we were able to save on depleting our data packages.

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Lodging

Beirut: Lost Achrafieh Hotel in the upscale Achrafieh district. Wonderful boutique hotel, nicest hotel we stayed in Lebanon and in Syria , good restaurant and bar, very friendly staff…all in a safe and cosmopolitan area.

Byblos: We stayed at the Aleph Boutique Hotel for two nights, using Byblos as a base camp. It’s seen better days but clean and good buffet breakfast with a view of the sea and the Citadel. We’d probably stay in Batroun 19 Km north next time.

Zahle: Beit Melhem, a private guesthouse with a wonderful host. She has one room with private bath, two with shared bath, and a stand alone apartment that sleeps four.

Chtaura: Hotel Massbaki. Once elegant,still decent, right on the Beirut/Damascus “Highway” but sits on large secluded grounds. We stayed here only to make it easier to be picked up for the next phase of our trip. We would have preferred to remain in Zahle.

All of our rooms were non-smoking, all bathrooms were equipped with a handheld bidet sprayer.

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Food

Restaurants aren’t cheap but the quality is good, with Lebanese food world renowned. There are also many other types of cuisines available, all filtered through local cooking traditions. We were warned, however, to be careful with unwashed greens so much to our dismay we avoided salads.

One very rewarding dinner for me included Kibbeh Nayeh, raw lamb with bulgur and spices. You may have to have been raised on this to appreciate it, but this was definitely the best I have ever eaten. If you don’t order Arak (like ouzo, only stronger, so mixed with water) to accompany it you’ll get a weird look. I didn’t have that problem.

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Highlights North of Beirut

Harissa

The site of Our Lady of Lebanon, an 8.5 meter high statue of the Virgin Mary sitting atop a 12 meter winding stone base.

This is an important pilgrimage site for Lebanese Christians, Muslims, and Druze, who are all especially devoted to Mary, Mother of Jesus. Overlooking Beirut and the coast off of Jounieh, the site offers stunning views. There are several small chapels on the site as well as the modern Maronite Basilica.

Batroun

Batroun is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, first settled by the Phoenicians. It has recently been transformed into a popular tourist destination filled with bars, restaurants, and nightclubs. The old town section resonates with charm: winding streets negotiated either on foot or using a tuktuk, kiosks selling famous local lemonade (its famous for good reason), a ancient Phoenician sea wall, an historic plaza with buildings rebuilt and dedicated to the various countries of the Lebanese diasporas.

Byblos Citadel

The Citadel is a must visit crusader castle, built in the 12th century from indigenous limestone ruins of a Roman site. We were there early morning and had the place completely to ourselves.

Annaya

Mar (Saint) Charbel, the patron saint of Lebanon, is entombed at the Monastery of Saint Maron in Annaya. The monastery, church, and his hermitage bring Maronite Catholics from all over Lebanon and beyond seeking intercession. An hourly mass spoken and sung in Arabic is a calming experience, as is the thirty minute uphill walk to his hermitage (we could have driven). The site affords itself to beautiful vistas and Mountain Views.

Bsharri

Red-roofed buildings perched on the edge of one of the ravines of the Qadishi Valley, narrow streets and switchbacks, church spires rising into the sky, and a backdrop of high mountain peaks make Bsharri one of the quintessential Lebanese mountain villages.

As the birthplace of poet and artist Khalil Gibran, Bsharri hosts his home and a museum in a renovated old monastery. A prolific visual artist, the museum displays his oil paintings as well as dozens of pencil and charcoal portraits of persons both famous and known only within his circle of friends and acquaintances. Original illustrations for his books, including The Prophet and The Madman, are on view.

Nearby is the Cedars of God preserve. Once found all over Mt Lebanon, the beautiful iconic cedar trees were cut and shipped by many occupiers of Lebanon, notably the Mamluks and the Ottomans. There are now only a few protected groves.

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South Central Lebanon

We took a long route to Zahle, passing through village after village with no discernible break for several kilometers. Gilbert pointed out when we would cross from a Christian village and then into a Shi’ah, then into Druze, then back to Shi’ah or Christian, changing continuously. We eventually reached the Chouf district of The Mt Lebanon Governate. This was one of our favorite parts of Lebanon, with the villages in this section of Lebanon much cleaner than those we had been in, especially historic Deir al Qamar with its classic 16th and 17th century architecture. The mountains in this area are much more extensive than I had imagined, with ridge after ridge and constant vistas.

Moussa’s Castle

Added to the List of Fascinating Places we Never Knew Existed was Moussa’s Castle. It was built entirely by Moussa Abdel Karim Al Maalmari, carving each piece of stone or clay, crafting several life size dioramas, and shaping clay onto the walls and ceiling on two levels.

Moussa’s incredibly extensive collection of antique weaponry from many parts of the world are displayed on the lower level.

Beit Ed-Dine

Built by a Lebanese Emir in the late 18th-early 19th century, this palace showcases beautiful tile mosaics and typical Islamic geometric architecture. Most of the mosaics were displayed in the old stables below the palace and outside on the lawn. The site is popular for wedding and betrothal photography. Portions of the complex have served as the summer residence of Lebanon’s president.

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Zahle

My grandmother often talked about going to Zahle as a young girl so this was high on our list and it did not disappoint. Nestled in the narrow Berdawni River valley, this is a popular weekend destination for Lebanese citizens. There are many fine restaurants, beautiful buildings showcasing typical Levantine architecture, winding paths and staircases up to the terraced residential neighborhoods above. There is a central park dedicated to the numerous Lebanese and Zahlean authors and poets who were either born or once resided there.

As was true all over Lebanon, people were welcoming and, especially here, beamed when told I was a Lebanese-American with family roots only a few kilometers away.

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Saraain

Especially meaningful to me was going to the village of Saraain el Tahta where I met several cousins for the first time and visited my grandfather’s house, the church where my grandparents were married and where two of my uncles were baptized.

There is not much reason to visit this village without family there….I’m at least distantly related to over 60% of its Christian population

We had planned to go to Baalbek that day but being with family was more important.

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Onward

We spent way too little time in Lebanon but treated it as mostly a reconnaissance trip, discovering where we want to spend more time on our next visit

Our last night in Lebanon was in Chtaura, where we were picked up the next morning, September 8, by our transportation into Syria. That was an organized tour and will be described in a separate trip report.

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So interesting. Lebanon is not a place on my radar to visit soon but I really enjoyed reading about your trip! Thanks for sharing.

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We play pickleball at a Lebanese/Syrian church. One couple go to Lebanon from June-September every year, no problems. They have family and a house there.
We will most likely never visit but I’m sure it is a beautiful country. Happy you were able to visit with no problems.
Thanks for the report.

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What an amazing trip. I can’t even begin to imagine how it would feel to visit the country of your family and meet distant relatives, seeing places you have heard stories of. Thank you so much for sharing with us! I loved reading this.

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Sounds like you had an incredible trip to Lebanon! Thank you for sharing your wonderful and heartwarming trip report! I was able to study and live in Jordan for 6 months nearly 20 years ago, and was fortunate to see a lot of Jordan, and thoroughly loved it. Lebanon has long been on my list of countries to visit, along with Syria, so I am especially looking forward to your travel report for Syria.

Mabruk wa shukran ya sadiqi!

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I also loved reading this! Did you spend much time in Beirut itself and of so, would you comment on your time there..what the city is like, etc.....

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ekscruncy, unfortunately we did not spend much time in Beirut. As mentioned, during planning stages Jamelie was nervous about being in the city…those fears immediately disappeared upon arrival but by then we had made plans to leave.

Like most cities, there are many distinct neighborhoods and sections. We first planned to stay in the Hamra district, close to many attractions like the Corniche and the American University of Beirut but Lebanese friends encouraged the Achrafieh district, which is where we landed. This is an upscale district with grand estates but I think Hamra is more lively and offers a better cross section of intellectual and classic Beirut.

First impressions:

Beirut is a blend of architectural styles criss-crossed by wide boulevards intersected by a maze of streets that may run at any angle. Traffic is…well, I told our driver, “I wouldn’t want to drive here”. He said, ‘I don’t want to drive here”. Neighborhoods range from run-down to elegant. In our hotel area, we walked after dark, passing by bars and restaurants filled with conversation, laughter, and good cheer; closed for the night art galleries and fashionable shops. People seemed to work until late and then go out. Most restaurants were open until at least 11 PM. The area was clean, safe, and felt European.

Our morning walk saw the neighborhood waking up, overhearing smatterings of conversation in Arabic or French (but not English), as were all the street signs. It didn’t take long for traffic to start snarling. It had been hot and humid the previous night, the morning was balmy humid.

Sorry I can’t be more help. We’ll spend several days there next visit. We’d probably stay in the same hotel but taxi or walk to other districts.

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Our next door neighbors are from Lebanon. They have brought us sweet treats. He wants to go back. So I found your report very interesting.

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It’s a pity you didn’t make it to Baalbek - an amazing site with what seemed to be the largest Roman columns in the world. But, family comes first.

I only visited Lebanon for a few days in 2008. This was an overland independent trip starting in Turkey, crossing into Syria, next Lebanon, then back to Syria in order to get to Jordan, and ended in Israel before flying into Cyprus and out of N Cyprus. Your details brings back memories though we only visited Tripoli, Beirut, Byblos and Baalbek.

So many places in the world to see…. Will wait for your Syria TR. Did you visit Hama, Palmyra, or Krak des Chevaliers?

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Mabruk wa shukran ya sadiqi!

And thank you too cnelsvmi09, ktir ktir

I hope you’re inspired to visit Lebanon and especially Syria someday. Judging by the enthusiasm expressed in your own trip reports, I know you would find them both delightful. Plus, revisiting a part of the world you have history…6 months in Jordan, wow!…you would feel instantly at home.