Thanks for everyone’s help. We had a great time in the Dolomites traveling west to east. I was struck by the fact that I felt more like I was in Germany or Switzerland than Italy. So very different than visiting the rest of the country. Great food, people were also very friendly.
We had 3 nights in an apartment in Ortisei at Residence Prapoz.
1 night at Berg Hotel Passo Giau
1 night at Rifugio Lavaredo
1 night at Rifugio Lagazuoi
So let’s get the bad part out of the way first.
We arrived in Venice the morning of June 18; rented a car and drove to Ortisei. Easy drive until Ortisei and we had a really hard time finding our apartment.
My husband was the driver as I can’t drive a manual. He hated driving in the Dolomites. It was very stressful for him. There isn’t a straight stretch to be found, constant switchbacks and heavy traffic of buses, cyclists, motorcycles – especially in Val Gardena (traffic lessened a little as we moved east). It requires 150% concentration. In fact, I stopped commenting on scenery because he couldn’t enjoy it as we drove. We have driven in mountainous regions before, Canadian Rockies for example, but it was nothing like this type of driving. Matt Reynolds on the forums here warned me and he was right. Surprisingly, I didn’t have a problem with motion sickness as I normally get car sick very easily.
I fretted that we would have a lot of bad weather and that lingering snow would be an issue as it was the beginning of the season. I planned a lot of things but didn’t expect to get to do everything. We ended up with excellent weather and no lingering snow on the trails. There were storms 1 night in Ortisei which meant we drove to dinner instead of walking and we abandoned plans for a late afternoon hike another day because of the threat of bad weather but other than that, we did everything I planned for us.
While in Ortisei we did an amazing hike at Seceda.
We found the way to the beautiful San Giacomo church.
Spent a day driving the 4 passes and got out and walked paths at most of them (my husband’s least favorite day because of all the driving). Scenery was jaw dropping.
Went to the churches at Santa Magdalena and Ranui.
My husband had one of his most favorite meals ever at Tubladel in Ortisei.
Had an easy day at Colle Santa Lucia and gorgeous Passo Giau (We were going to hike to Nuvolau from here but there was the threat of a thunder storm. It didn’t start until much later but it was still the best decision).
Hiked to stunningly beautiful Lago Di Sorapis and then went on the Tre Cime area to stay at Rifugio Lavaredo which is a 30 minute hike from the car park on the Tre Cime hike path. We put just what we needed for the night in my husband’s back pack as I carried the gear. Left our luggage in the car.
Completed the circular hike around the Tre Cime before heading to the Lagazuoi Cable Car. Again, we left luggage in the car and took what we needed. The rifugio is at the top of the cable car station so we could carry a few more things.
Had an amazing evening at Rifugio Lagazoui. Just spectacular views!
Drove to Lago di Braies the next morning. It was my least favorite. You can drive right up to it and it was packed. It would be better to spend a night there so it could be enjoyed peacefully in the early morning.
I contacted rifugios back in December. Lagazuoi answered, within the week. Lavaredo I didn’t hear back from until February. I booked early enough to get private rooms but we still had to share the bathroom.
Lagazuoi had nicer facilities and is larger than Lavaredo and I’m glad we stayed at Lavaredo first.
I would love to go back and do a hut to hut hike so that we could utilize public transportation. Maybe one day!
I would be happy to answer questions. Didn’t want to give too much detail because people lose interest.