Switzy Fun! A Best of Switzerland Trip Report

June 4, tour day 2:

If you have been on a Rick Steves tour, you will know we hit the ground running! We had a 2 hour walking tour led by a local guide pointing out historical facts and interesting stories. We met our bus driver, Beát, a delightful Swiss gentleman, and we drove to the dock to meet our boat on Lake Lucerne that would take us to Rütli Meadow the famous spot where 3 Swiss men made a pact to form a union to protect against a Habsburg invasion – Switzerland was established in 1291. It was very windy with gusts up to 30 and 40 mph. The meadow could only be reached by a steep hike uphill which most of us did. We drank a toast to the 3 brave men with carbonated milk. We stopped in Altdorf, a town with a huge William Tell statue where we also had lunch. William Tell refused to bow to the Habsburgs and was forced to shoot an apple off his own son’s head!

Aboard the bus we then headed to the Fortress Fürigen, the huge, extensive underground bunker system equipped with cannon and missiles to beat back a Nazi invasion and maintain their neutrality during WWII. We had an excellent tour by one of the Fortress guides. Very impressive! We then headed back to our hotel for the evening. I don’t remember where we ate.
June 5, tour day 3:
We packed up and left Lucerne on the bus, headed to Appenzell! On the way we stopped and toured Einsiedeln Abbey, a place of pilgrimage, that has a beautiful rococo interior and just as beautiful Black Madonna. The Chapel of Grace and Black Madonna is meant to honor the memory of Saint Meinrad (+861) in perpetuity. We stopped for lunch often at various Coops where I bought wonderful vegetarian salads – I’m not a vegetarian but they were fresh, delicious and cost effective. Clouds continued to follow us but so far, no rain. Enjoyed seeing the beautiful countryside. Upon arrival to our hotel – Hotel Hecht - I took my luggage (after my buddy Ken hauled it from the bus for me!) to my room, freshened up and went down to walk with the group to our Yodeling lesson from a Master! Just consider what a surprise this was! It was a time of bonding and everyone enjoyed themselves. Then we had a dinner served at the hotel. Good food, I don’t remember what we ate. I loved this hotel, it was so quaint and you felt the Swiss cow culture here. It was very pleasant to walk around this town after dinner.
June 6, tour day 4:
This morning we took a gondola lift to the peak of Ebenalp, it was chilly, windy with spotty rain on the trail. I hiked downhill with trusty hiking poles I packed for this purpose and found it to be challenging at this altitude. I live at 1,400 feet. Then I had to hike back up to the top. Now the clouds lifted and the sun shone on the hike back up! Several couples chose not to do the hike and had an après rest break.

Our bus left Appenzell for Lugano, the Italian side of Switzerland where it rarely snows. We stopped at a Coop for lunch again (I think). I really enjoyed the food we bought there. Eventually we made it to Bellinzona, a UNESCO World Heritage site and fortified town which was necessary to prevent the Italians from taking over this part of Switzerland. A local guide met us and gave a very clear explanation of the importance of Bellinzona to Swiss history and walked through the castle, etc. We made it to Lugano, a resort like town on Lake Lugano. Our hotel was a star! The historic International au Lac Hotel, in existence for over a century. There were so many beautiful seating areas where I could imagine the rich and famous sat and there were photographs to prove it. The dining room was huge and tastefully decorated. The china was Villeroy and Boch! I was really impressed. Tony took us on a quick orientation walk of the city. This evening we were free for dinner and the restaurant was La Vinera, recommended in Rick’s guidebook. We enjoyed white wine and Asparagus Raviolo, delicious. I crashed into bed after a long, busy day. By this time, the temperatures were easily hitting 80 degrees and humid.
June 7, tour day 5:
A free day! That is, until 5 pm when we meet at the hotel for a boat ride on Lake Lugano on the way to our Risotto cooking class and Italian style family dinner.

My free day began with breakfast at 8 am, so civilized. My friend and I and a few of our tourmates went on a lovely walk around Lake Lugano admiring the beautiful flowers and interesting statues. Still heavy clouds threatening rain but we were not deterred. We walked all the way to the funicular to Monte Bre and I decided to go off on my own back to town. I wanted to see the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, the Church of St. Mary of the Angels dating from 1499 and the art museum, MASI Lugano, featuring an exhibit of Swiss painters Ferdinand Hodler and Filippo Franzoni. Our guide had recommended these artists being shown at the huge, very modern museum just steps along the lakefront from our hotel.
To continue my story, I hopped on the bus back to town and a woman heard me speak and decided to take me under her wing and show me around town. There was a Saturday market going on so we browsed through it and she led me to the cathedral all the while sharing her life story with me. Very interesting to connect with a local. After the cathedral I walked down to a café, Fredy’s Café for a light lunch and cappuccino. Great people watching, one couple, quite elderly, were sitting quietly reading the newspaper and eating a light brunch. I really felt part of the scene. When I regained my energy, I went on to the other St.Mary’s church and to see the Hodler exhibit. A very nice vacation from my vacation.
5 pm – the group met back at the hotel and we went by boat to a place where a woman teaches groups how to cook Risotto. It was the best kind of bonding activity for our group producing lots of laughter and good-natured ribbing over who made the best risotto. We ate dinner outside family style and drank white wine too! Really fun evening.

June 8, tour day 6:

Sad to say goodbye to Lugano but we were on the bus headed to Zermatt to see the Matterhorn and Lausanne where we would lay our heads tonight. We were in Zermatt for 3 hours and were amazed to see the Matterhorn so clearly with blue skies! We took the Rothorn lift to the Sunegga Viewpoint and had glorious views. A group of 8 of us had a big table on the patio and ate lunch. I had my favorite – Rosti with fried egg! It was a thrill to be there as it’s 50/50 chances to even see the Matterhorn. We were on our way again to Lake Geneva and Lausanne. Hotel des Voyageurs was our comfy hotel. Tony walked us around the neighborhood and we had time to freshen up for our group dinner nearby at historic Grütli Restaurant with Vaudois cuisine. Very nice.

June 9, tour day 7:
This morning, we took the train to the waterfront Ouchy neighborhood. Very pleasant walking along this area. The Olympic Museum and Brut Art Musem were closed for the Pentecost Holiday weekend. We then went to Vevey for lunch and we found an outdoor French café serving delicious fare. We loved Vevey! Bright, colorful flowers everywhere. Then we toured Château Chillon, very touristic, but I enjoyed it anyway. Loved hearing about the literary connection with Lord Byron. Because we were in the area, we went to a relaxing wine tasting in the Lavaux vineyard. Very nice, sunny weather is on our side! Free evening for dinner in Lausanne. We went back to Ouchy and found an outdoor café and had buckwheat crepes
June 10, tour day 8:
After leaving Lausanne, we headed for an indoor thrill – making chocolate with a Chocolatier! We made chocolate, I’m not talking about walking through a factory. Our instructor is a Chocolatier. This was one of many Wow moments on this tour. Camille Bloch has been around for a over hundred years. My 5-ounce bar survived the trip home and it is in my refrigerator waiting to be divided among my friends. This blockbuster day is going to end in Mürren in the Swiss Alps. We arrive about 4 pm, still daylight and are installed in our comfy, rustic Hotel Blumental, Tony takes us on a wander around the town and then we meet later for our group dinner of cheese fondue.
June 11, tour day 9:
Bright and early, we take a gondola all the way to the top of the 9,700 foot Schilthorn for breakfast at the Piz Gloria restaurant with a panoramic view of the Alps against a bright blue sky. The original James Bond movie with George Lazenby was filmed here. It is spectacular and another Wow moment. The breakfast is generous buffet style. After breakfast, we had the rest of the day free for hiking or any activities our hearts desired. Several of us went on the flower walk and then walked the steep downhill paved path from Mürren to Gimmelwald. It was warm, in the high 70’s – 80’s and sunny. Our reward was lunch at an outdoor café near the cable car lift. We took that back to Mürren. Eventually, that evening some of us had dinner at the Eiger hotel, delicious food. Serendipity struck when a local brass band was marching up and down the main street. It seemed everyone poured out of their hotels to see what was happening. They were rehearsing for a brass band competition for that Sunday. Townspeople and tourists alike fell into line and walked behind the band as they were playing against the glorious Alpine Mountain peaks! Did I say the wildflowers were in bloom everywhere? Yes, they were. And the cows and their bells!

June 12, tour day 10:
We say our sad goodbyes to the mountains and take the cable car back to the Lauterbrunnen Valley where our bus awaits us and our luggage. We are headed to an Alphorn workshop in a tiny village in the verdant green countryside. He invited some of the group to blow the Alphorn and 3 of our men did that. Cool. The last Swiss professional Alphorn maker gave us a tour around his workshop and spoke about his family history with Alphorn making. We did learn he has 2 young children to possibly carry on the tradition.
We drive through the gorgeous Swiss countryside to a cheesemaker which the whole group agreed was quite cheesy.

Off we go to our final stop – Bern. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the entire city. Very medieval with beautiful overlooks that are photographic perfect. The Aare River beckons as the temperatures are now in the mid-80’s. We stop at one overlook with The Rose Garden to take pictures before we land at our hotel, Hotel Bären, a 3 minute walk from the train station. Super convenient. Tony takes us on a stroll to orient us to the area and our hotel. We find dinner on our own at a restaurant from Rick’s guidebook – Lötschberg - delicious food.
June 13, tour day 11:
We are led on a 2-hour walking tour through the interesting parts of Bern with a local guide. Very interesting commentary about Bern and the buildings and culture. We watched the famous clock tower stike the hour when the Happy Jester comes to life. The clock dates to 1530 and the tower, part of the original Medieval wall, to 1250. We ended up at the Altes Tramdepot where we had a lively Q&A session with the guide about everything Swiss. Very interesting. My friend and I had lunch and then walked along the river to the Einstein Museum. I highly recommend this extensive and informative museum on his life and thinking. Our farewell dinner was this evening. And it was full of heartfelt goodbyes and toasts to our guide and our tourmates.
June 14, tour day 12, ends at 7 am:
We spent the morning going to the Bern Cathedral and buying our train tickets to the Zurich Airport as we had booked rooms at the airport, our flight was for Sunday morning 10 am. Somehow we picked a train car which had stairs so getting our luggage up the stairs was a challenge. Otherwise, everything went smoothly for two grateful but tired travelers.

Enjoyed your TR Judy. I just posted one as well, but we only spent a few days in Switzerland, in Lucerne and Zurich. We know we want to make it back to Switzerland at some point but just not sure yet of when and how.

1. Do you think the tour met your expectations?
2. Are there parts that you felt might have been too rushed?

Allan,
Absolutely yes, the tour exceeded my expectations!

The travel day from Appenzell to Lugano was packed and I wrote in my tour evaluation that I wanted another day in Appenzell.

Keep in mind this is an active tour but you can opt out of scheduled activities. Several people didn’t do any of the hikes at all.

I hope this helps.

As you know me well, you know I'm not a tour enthusiast, but you sure make this one sound fun! Good reporting!!

I’ve been on the fence about visiting Switzerland in general, but you really do make it appealing. Maybe this will be my first Rick Steve’s tour. Now we just have to find the time.

Thanks for the time and effort in doing this. It’s on our list and may be the next one, so your report is very helpful regarding what to expect.

So enjoyed your report! I hope to make it back to Switzerland someday and this tour would be a great way to do it. Thank you Judy!

Thank you for your trip report, Judy! I’m going on this tour in late September and it’s nice to know what to expect. Any helpful hints or tips you can pass along would be greatly appreciated!

I’m signed up for this tour in September and your report definitely got me excited to go. Thanks for the sneak peek!

Judy, thanks for the great trip report! I enjoyed it a lot. I admit that Switzerland is not high on my radar—I was there in 1997 and had no real plans to go back, but your report makes me want to rethink that. :-)

Loved your report! Thanks for sharing. I so enjoyed the Swiss part of our BOE tour in 2003!

Judy, one question. You mentioned your “trusty hiking poles”, which is something I have been considering getting. What kind do you have? Do you recommend bringing them with you?

Barbara,
I loved this time of year for Switzerland because of the flowers in bloom everywhere, especially the wildflowers! I think you will love this tour! Mid-September is a good time as well, I was on the My Way Alpine Tour in 2023 and had lovely weather in Mürren.

I was hesitant for a long time because of the altitudes but I called the RS office and found out Mürren's at about 5,000 feet which is doable for me.

Pearzee and CindyB,
Bring hiking poles if you plan to hike. I was glad I brought mine. I got mine at REI, Black Diamond adjustable to fit in my checked bag. REI will measure you and make you custom poles so I may return these poles so I can have ones that adjust down to a smaller size. I might need them in 2026 for my Scotland tour and I would like to bring a smaller bag. If you are taking a train from the Zurich airport to Lucerne or from Bern to the Zurich airport, hauling smaller bags onto the train is so much easier! I know this from experience.

Get Swiss Francs from a bank ATM, I spent all 100CF of mine on the trip. There are places where it is handy to have cash. Only one toilet required 1 CF. Credit cards are accepted everywhere in Switzerland.
Also, be sure to pack layers as weather is unpredictable. Lightweight tops and bottoms - you will be glad!

CindyB,
Hiking poles are very helpful on the trails especially for the downhill parts. The walk from Mürren to Gimmelwald I describe was all downhill and very steep. Poles helped keep the pressure off my right knee which I injured 2 years ago. A minor injury.

Thank you for your kind comments. It is an exciting tour filled with many surprises! It is an active tour so try to be in shape for it.

Judy, this is the kind of fun, fine trip report I love to bookmark to be able to check later on details like hotel names. Thank you for providing such a fine description of this trip. I took this tour about 10 years ago during its first season, and I can tell lots of improvements have been made to the itinerary. I think maybe there is something to be said for NOT taking a tour when it is brand new. Maybe a discount could be offered for new tours while details are finessed? Thanks also for the information about time of year, weather, blooming flowers, etc. I suspect the MyWay Alpine is in my future, and I like the idea of a May trip!

Enjoyed reading your trip report! Thank you! We will be heading to Switzerland in two weeks and loved reading the details of your trip.

Very fun reading! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the reply Judy! I’ll check out what REI has. I was on the Scotland tour this past year and there wasn’t any heavy duty hiking on the tour that would have required poles. If you’re planning to hike up Arthur’s Seat that might be a different story.

CindyB,
Thanks for the info on the Scotland tour. I probably won’t bring them on that tour. I have another reason for getting different hiking poles, I want to go hiking with my brother, an avid hiker.