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Switzerland - Pontresina - Part 2

What a hidden gem this town is. This was our substitute for not crossing the border to Lake Como. We had really wanted to revisit Varenna and the area, but with Covid, and the then-required quarantine period, [because our flight transferred thru Heathrow, ] we had to make the tough decision to reschedule those three nights.
Riding the Bernina Express was a bucket list item, and one I wasn't going to drop.
Having first spent a few days in Lucerne, Pontresina seemed a logical substitution for the Lake Como nights. As we journeyed towards, we covered the Abula Line of the Bernina Express, from Chur to Pontresina, with spectacular scenery as we traversed bridges over steep gorges, first built in the early 1900's, using hand-calculated math. I had done my research, so I could appreciate the engineering required, pre-computers. The RS Switzerland Guide also includes a section on these highlights.

As we arrived at the Pontresina train station, on a gloomy and rainy afternoon, my mood dropped. We waited in the rain for the bus [it's a 15 minutes walk uphill], and there appeared nothing noteworthy on the hill above. Drat-

We found our hotel, the Chesa Mulin, [RS recommended] with whom we booked directly, had great communication, received a senior discount, with breakfast, and passes for both the Bellavita public pool/spa and the local lifts. I still couldn't figure out what was worth seeing. The Coop grocery store was right next door the hotel, but it closed early on Saturdays, along with all day Sunday, so my Coke Zero addiction was left wanting.
After settling in, with a short nap, and trying not to be negative, the sun came out, and we explored the town- and wow!
The view from the train station was deceptive: there were many charming streets, views of the glaciers on the Alps, and mountain bikers everywhere. As my husband is a mountain biker, he was thrilled. And the mountains-the town is at 5,000ft elevation- this was a winter paradise ski town. After the rain, the air cleared, and the sunset was beautiful and golden, making for some of my more magical pictures.

As our hotel gave us free passes for the lifts, the next day we set out to ascend. We rode the in-town ski lift to Alp Languard, with even better views of the glaciers, against bright blue skies. There is a cute restaurant there, which closes at 5:00pm, [but the kitchen closes at 4:00pm. We found this out on another day when we tried to have an early dinner at the top.] There are many options for hikes.
But we also wanted to take advantage of the sunny weather, and explore Muottas Muragl, [8,000 ft.] whose cogwheel train is covered by the hotel pass, so we took the local bus to the foot of this peak, Punt Muragl stop. The beautiful day continued, the scenery was spectacular, and we could see St. Moritz in the distance. [All feedback discouraged our going to St. Moritz- all glitz and low on charm.] There were hikes of all levels, and even a short hike granted access to better vistas. There is also a cafe for a snack.

On our last day, it was time to ride the Bernina Express. One note- there is a charming train station actually in Pontresina, five minutes from town, called Surovas . It is a "Stop on Request"- a new term for us - for which one presses a button for a stop. Buttons are at the train station, and on the train. It's set in the woods, by the river, with the smell of fresh-cut cedar logs. The road to the station isn't paved, and there's no public transportation here, but it's actually in town. It would have made a much better first-impression than the Pontresina train station. And- easy access to the Bernina Express Regional trains...

Posted by
4616 posts

I've also attached this to Lucerne, Part 1, in the Reply section.

Posted by
18 posts

Thank you Pat for your report. We were supposed to be in Switzerland and France this month but I chose, regretably to postpone till next year due to the possibility of getting covid while there. I can't wait to ride the Bernina Express and after reading your report stay a couple of days in Pontresina.

Posted by
11247 posts

Lovely! We spent a week there in 2018, across the river from Surovas. You are right! It is much more charming than the main station.

Posted by
11053 posts

Another fan of Pontresina! It has so much charm with its decorated houses.We drove there from Grindelwald and after our stay continued on to Bellagio on Lake Como.
Highly recommend Pontresina!

Posted by
6783 posts

Lovely report!
If you ever want to go back to the area, and can afford to splurge (half-board packages soften the blow), the hotel at Muottas Muragl (top of funicular) is really an incredible experience. Stayed there for 3 nights in the doomed winter of 2020 (late January...) and it was one of the top travel experiences of my life. Stellar food, great service... and is there anywhere else in the world where the only way down (other than the funicular of course) is by toboggan?

Posted by
4616 posts

Balso,
the toboggan sounds tempting....

Posted by
3247 posts

Another fan of Pontresina here! The hiking trails that leave from there are wonderful - so many options for direction and difficulty! Also, having the rail pass makes it so easy to visit the region. I’m glad that you had a nice visit!

Posted by
5187 posts

Hi Pat,

Thanks for writing and sharing your trip with us! Sounds like you’re having a fantastic trip!

I have a question about your last comment:

One note- there is a charming train station actually in Pontresina, five minutes from town, called Surovas . It is a "Stop on Request"- a new term for us - for which one presses a button for a stop. Buttons are at the train station, and on the train. It's set in the woods, by the river, with the smell of fresh-cut cedar logs. The road to the station isn't paved, and there's no public transportation here, but it's actually in town. It would have made a much better first-impression than the Pontresina train station.

I’m a bit confused. You mentioned that the Surovas station is in the woods by the river, so I presume this is not the train station one chooses if staying in the town of Pontresina, correct?

Posted by
4616 posts

This Surovas station is in town already up on the hill, and was five minutes walk from the Coop store, and the #1 bus top.
Once you get off the train, follow the widest of the three gravel paths, you then cross a small bridge over a river [perhaps not THE river], and end up on Via da Mulin. It's really very simple, and is a more charming way to enter the town.

Since I live in California and we have so few rivers, I guess I call all rivers THE river.

Safe travels.

Posted by
5187 posts

Hi Pat,

Thanks for the additional information about the Surovas station!
I’ve bookmarked your trip reports for future reference.

Enjoy the rest of your trip!