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Switzerland / Murren - Part4

The folks here on the Forum helped this geographically inept traveller understand the Berner Oberland [I hope I summarized this correctly]:

Interlaken is the valley floor;
Lauterbrunnen is a little ways uphill;
continue further up and there's a "V" split, and Wegen sits at 4100 ft on one side, and Murren is elevated 5,000 ft. on the other side.
The Jungfraujoch is up beyond the Wegen side, and the Schilthorn is above Murren.
There is extended animated discussion here on whether Murren or Wengen is the better area to stay; each is beautiful and charming in its own way.

The total trip to Murren from Pontresina took about 6.5 hours with about eight changes. It was a rather efficient and non-hectic process, thanks to the Swiss and their "maddenly efficient" train systems.
The first 5.5 hours was on the SBB rail lines and involved about five smooth train changes. The SBB lines ended at Interlaken Ost. The next part was totally confusing to me, and I posted a late night-before query here on this Forum: "how do we actually get up to Murren?"
Soon I had received several very easy-to understand responses, assuring me that the Swiss had made the route, and the three changes, which took a total of an hour, quite easy once one was in Interlaken Ost:
1. train from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen;
2. gondola to Grutschalp
3. "streetcar" one-car train into Murren-

Yes - Success!!!

We chose Murren at which to stay for four nights. [We had previously spent two night here with an RS tour, but had poor weather, so didn't ascend to any peaks. ] Hotel Bellevue, an RS favorite, welcomed us with an RS discount, great email communication, breakfast, and a fair cancelation policy. [Before Covid, did we worry about cancelation policies?] Booking directly with the hotel saved $$$. Our standard room was as described: clean, cozy, small balcony, with view of a mountain, and a very new and somewhat large bathroom. The room itself was European small. I debated about reserving a larger room on the Eiger side of the hotel, maybe even one with a corner balcony. It would have been another sobering 30% more, but now I think we should have splurged. Our plan was to slow down in Murren, and a larger room in which to relax may have been worth it, especially with rain coming. The hotel lobby was large and welcoming, with several overstuffed leather sofas and game tables; a great area in which to read on a rainy day. The hotel also had a large outdoor patio facing the mountains, where they served dinner, drinks, and had patio furniture. On our first two evenings we had magnificent golden sunsets, some of my best pictures of the trip! The Coop store was two Murren blocks away, and the hotel had the only landramat in town. The hostess, Ruth, was wonderful.

I'm a vegetarian, [ I eat chicken], so Swiss dining can be a challenge. The restaurant at the Hotel Jungfrau had Thai chicken skewers [the 12-piece order feeds two] and a great vegetarian pizza. They served us free water with ice cubes! On one night we purchased salads -and wine- from the Coop store for dinner. We took the wine downstairs and sat on the large outdoor patio.

Our initial plan was to spend our first Murren day as a slow-down day, as the day before involved a lot of travel, and we had been on the road for a week. However, inclement weather was coming in two days, so if we wanted to get to a peak, it had to be the next day. We chose the Jungfraujoch.
...to be continued....

Posted by
2545 posts

Loving the reports! I’m living vicariously through you as I plan my trip for next summer. We’ll be staying in Wengen and going to Jungfraujoch. I hope you have great weather and a fabulous time.

Posted by
37 posts

Also loving reading your reports. It is definetly helping me plan my Switzerland adventure when we are allowed to travel again.

Posted by
920 posts

Pat….we are in Lauterbrunnen right now….I will add this…..Monday morning there was snow on a lot of the lower trails….and all day it was dark and drizzly….everything “socked in”……hubby and I took the opportunity to go to the Murren side of the valley as we tend to spend more time on the Wengen side…..it looked like someone had blown a whistle and told everyone to leave……I have never seen Murren so quiet and vacated……we had a fondue pot about 4pm in a hotel right there by the lift to the Schilthorn……and even wondered as we walked by if it were open……never seen this town so empty…….kinda strange……….

Posted by
5604 posts

Jane, Murren was quiet during the week, but we really saw a marked increase in people coming in for the weekend. Our hotel was full for the weekend, and the little train coming into Murren was packed. Enjoy- snow!!!!

Posted by
466 posts

I'm so enjoying your trip reports! Thank you! I'm glad to hear that the 6.5 train trip with about 8 changes was non-hectic.

We will be in Switzerland with friends (10 people total in our group) one year from right now, a trip that seems very much like the one you are on. Flight to Milan, a couple nights in Varenna on Lake Como, then 1/2 of the Bernina Express from Tirano to Pontresina. I thought we'd use the panoramic cars for that. We're staying overnight in Samedan to break up the BE. I know the panoramic train doesn't stop in Samedan, but we'll be able to quickly get there from Pontresina by bus or train. The next day we'll use a regional train to complete the Bernina Express route up to Chur, then another train to Lucerne. Two nights in Lucerne, followed by 5 nights in a rental home in Murren. After check out, we're headed by train up to Montreux just to spend the day on the eastern shore of Lake Geneva. It looks like we can store luggage at the train station. We want to walk on the lakeside promenade to Chillon Castle, tour the castle, maybe take a scenic boat ride and/or hike on the terraced vineyards near Vevey. At the end of this day we're headed to the Geneva airport for the rental of cars on the French side, and then we leave Switzerland for France and the final week of our trip.

To travel by train from Murren to Montreux is about 3.5 hours, but I thought we might choose to do this partly on the Golden Pass route, even though it will add another hour and a half. Regardless of which route we choose, there are quite a few train changes and some of the transfer times are really tight, just 3 to 6 minutes. Should I stop worrying about that, thinking we'll miss a connection and have to wait for the next train?

I thought that doing 1/2 of the BE on the panoramic cars, and the other 1/2 on the regional cars, would be nice . . . experience it both ways, but after reading your post, I'm now tempted to just do the regional cars for the entire route, for the chance to have open windows and maybe hop off in the town of Poschiavo.

Posted by
5604 posts

Vickie,
I love Lake Como and initially that was on the itinerary, until the changing covid rules just made that unfeasible. I will be back to Lake Como someday! I hope by next year the world will have adapted to this awful virus, and that increased vaccinations have made life safer.
The Swiss are so efficient with their train changes. If you have four minutes, for example, the next train will be right there on the platform twenty feet away. If you have a whole ten minutes, you will likely have to use a tunnel under the tracks, and come up on another platform. You need to be aware of your incoming platform, your outgoing platform, and be ready to exit the train the moment it stops. The signage and directions to platforms is easy to find. Everyone need to be able to handle their own luggage. The SBB app has all this info, so at least one person in the group needs to have cell usage. Once you do it a few times, it becomes very easy.
The regional trains from Chur to Pontresina did not have open windows, but the trains from Pontresina to Tirano did. The panoramic trains were full, but the regional trains were empty.
Have fun planning your trip, and with a group, no less. Hopefully your stay in Samedan offers you those great free passes to the mountain lifts.
Your trip sounds wonderful and best wishes for your adventures!

Posted by
466 posts

Thank you! All of this is very helpful information! Continue to enjoy your wonderful trip! I'm looking forward to the next installments of your write-up!

Posted by
920 posts

Need to add this…..took the Northface Hike today and since the day was so clear we went to the Schilthorn…….great day to do it because the weather was perfect……and there was a little more activity in Murren compared to Monday in the rain…….so maybe the weather is the indicator of activity!