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Switzerland/Austria/Paris trip report part 2-Wengen

So we arrived in Wengen to clouds. No matter, it was later in the afternoon so we took the opportunity to hand wash some clothes and sort our gear for hiking the next several days. Checking weather often. We stay at Hotel Schönegg every time we are in Wengen and we love it there. It’s $$$ but for us worth every penny. We do half board so all we need to worry about is feeding ourselves lunch.
Anyway next day was cloudy up above but seemed like it was clearing off more so we decided to walk the valley. There is a great bakery in Wengen where we bought sandwiches and lunch food. Headed down to Lauterbrunnen. The more we walked the clearer it got until it was a beautiful sunny day down there! How wonderful. Hiked down past the turn to Trammelbach and had our lunch at a spot on the trail we know that has picnic area. Amazes me how nice the Swiss are, this had a little grill/BBQ area and of course it was stocked with wood for people to use. Did a lot of photos and videos, come sweet lowland cows very friendly. After lunch we walked back, crossed the river to Trammelbach and then took the bus back to Lauterbrunnen. Decided to take the train all the way up to KS for a beer. Got up there and had about a half a beer and started pouring. Was amazing how clear it was in the valley and how cloudy it was up top. Anyway back to home base, lovely dinner, great food and wine and then out!
Next day similar, we knew from checking weather possible to be so-so up top so we decided to head to the other side and see how Murren and Grutschalp side was. Ride up to Grutschalp, then train to Murren. Murren is changing, getting more developed. The whole area seems to be actually. Weather clearing so decided to do the hike back to Grutschalp as it is easy peasy. Good thing, about 1/4 mile down my hiking pole broke! Snapped and totally unrepairable. Anyway knew the next day’s hike and other hikes I would need poles so went to the Mountain Sports place in Wengen when we got back and rented two poles for the duration. It was cheap. DH decided however that we were going to haul the broken pole the entire rest of the trip so he could send it back. ??? Whatever. Had beers on the deck, enjoyed the sun, another wonderful day in Switzerland.
Next day we decided to do a hike we had not done before but looked at on the map and seemed to be a beautiful ridge line on the Eiger side. Packed up lunch again from the bakery and with my two rental hiking poles off we went. This was the hike from Mannlichen to Alpinglen. I posted another thread on this at the time called “Know your Hike, or the Stupids Step Out”. What we learned is that yes this is a spectacular beautiful ridge hike with views beyond amazing BUT the first section and the last section were VERY VERY STEEP. Thank goodness I had two poles! Someone was looking out for me, if my pole had broken this day I think they would’ve had to helicopter me out, lol. Anyway weather completely clear, lots of cows, flowers, and just views that bring tears to your eyes. The last mile or so was the worst, off the Alp trail and onto the gravel trail down to Alpinglen. Anyway made it an hopped the train back to KS, had another beer and then down to Wengen. Doing some TLC on the feet and especially poor toes that night. Next day just some light hike and rides around. Part 3- Wengen to Lucerne and Lucerne to Zurich and then followed by the Nightjet to come.

Posted by
6066 posts

Thank you so much for your detailed report! May I suggest that you copy-paste and reply to your own thread for part 1? It will be easier to follow for us :-)

Posted by
8938 posts

I was just going to say the same as balso . . . I am worried that your different parts will get separated from each other,

Posted by
835 posts

Oh my goodness cchapin100…..we did the exact same Eiger Trail hike after researching it online as a “mild to moderate” hike…….WHOA. We walked to KS, took the train to the Eigergletscher stop where the trail began……I would NEVER use the word MILD to describe that hike……I thought Alpiglen would NEVER show up…..I really thought we had taken the wrong trail because the hike went on and on and on and on…..and yes, the first and last were awful….we had no poles and still wonder how we did it…..never been so thankful to see that cute restaurant show up in Alpiglen!!!!!!!!

Posted by
2420 posts

I just booked your Wengen hotel for June. I hope those weren't stairs i saw in the pictures of the hotel. 😊 Now I definitely have to get a smaller suitcase!!!

Posted by
491 posts

Carrie you can keep walking up the hill to the side entrance and you will not have steps.

Ok onward TRIP REPORT PART 3:we sadly had to leave Wengen and head out as we were going to Austria. To break up the train travel we went to Lucerne for one night. This is one of the train rides where we ran into someone (in this case American woman) who was sick. Neither she nor her son wore masks except when conductor came around,. So we moved to the far end of the compartment and fortunately we weren’t on the train too long with them.

We stayed at the Hotel des Alpes everyone loves. For us both the hotel and Lucerne were just OK. We checked in, ate lunch (split a $30 burger) and then walked around to see sights. Meh. I know many of you love Lucerne but it just did not float our boat. Also it was extremely crowded. While eating lunch we had a homeless guy stop and ask for money. Told him in English we didn’t speak German and then he replied in English the funniest thing when he figured out we weren’t going to give him money, he said “you are clearly NOT Canadian”. We laughed over that the rest of the trip. Are Canadians a soft touch? Must be. Anyway we just didn’t like Lucerne overall and one day was plenty so we left earlier than planned the next morning for Zurich. We had rented a day room back at Hotel St, Gotthard because that night we were headed out on the Nightjet for Vienna.
Got to the hotel, dumped our stuff. It was a beautiful day in Zurich so headed out. Walked across the river area that leads into the Lake and just wandered. Saw some churches and just had a great time wandering Old Town areas.Had a fabulous outdoor lunch at a restaurant along the river. Crossed back over and wandered some more. We really like the vibe in Zurich, go figure. Then back to the hotel, showered and cleaned up, popped across the street to our little Simplon bar, ate dinner and then headed to the train station for our Nightjet sleeper car to Vienna.

What a hoot! We booked a first class sleeping compartment with private bath. Nice amenities including sparkling wine, water, slippers. Hopped in our beds, I had to take the upper bunk but it was fine. Slept great and in the morning we were given a continental breakfast.

Arrived Vienna about 8 am. I had booked our room at the hotel to include the night before as I knew we wouldn’t want to wait to get into the room and to have breakfast. I guess I will continue the rest of this report in Austria forum.